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bugman426
12-29-2004, 05:54 PM
Hey, I was wondering if you could tell me im missing anything in my milii setup

itll be a 55 gallon tank cut in half, one half ( 24Lx12W) will be cut in half again, so the male and female will each have their own small enclosure while not breeding. I was told you shouldnt keep them together.

2 hide boxes in each enclosure, one with moist spagnum moss, one just a plain hide box. A water bowl in each.

Do i need a heat pad, or is room temperature good enough?

Also, all i know about breeding them is that i need to cool the temps for a few weeks. Any special things i need to do during this period, such as feeding, etc?

thanks in advance

Mike

bugman426
12-30-2004, 06:15 PM
Well 55 gallon idea is deffinately out---so now its either i canbuy a cheap rack system, make one, or keep the miliis in their own 5 1/2 gallon tank then during breeding put them both in a 10 gallon tank

Nathan Hall
01-01-2005, 01:34 AM
Mike, sorry for the delay. I've been busy with the geckos and getting all of the Aussie species down for the winter. I keep all of my U. milii singly, and introduce the male throughout the breeding season. They are kept in rack systems (see photo) in 15-quart plastic boxes (see photo). The substrate is a thin layer of Jurassic Sand, and there is an inverted plastic plant catch basin on the warm end of the enclosure. There is also a moist nestbox with coconut fiber and sand. The females usually lay in this box. I think that any fine sand is a suitable substrate. These guys don't really burrow, so there is no need for much sand depth. I mist the cage a few time a week, and I keep the nestbox moist at all times. I use heat tape to warm the rear portion of the box to 88-92 degrees F. The ambient temp is usually 82-84 during the summer, and I do cool them in the winter. Females love to hang out in the box, and it really aids in shedding. I love this species. They are interesting and extremely hardy.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/rack3.jpghttp://www.geckosunlimited.com/U.miliisetup.jpg

bugman426
01-01-2005, 02:44 PM
the gladware containers you use...how high is the coconut fiber filled up to--and its easy for the geckos to climb in and out of them? i purchased plastic plant potter things from the local nursery and cut them down the middle and figured i would use that as the dry hide box....i wanted to use the terracotta ones but no way of cutting those

and for the gladware thing again..i just mix bed a beast with jurassi sand? does the ratio of bedabeast to sand matter? is the glad ware on the cool side or the warm side?

sorry for all the questions.....thanks

Brandon
01-01-2005, 02:54 PM
Nathan--nice setups. I've heard that if eggs are left in coco fiber for more than 24 hrs. they will go bad. Has this ever happened to you?

Nathan Hall
01-01-2005, 03:42 PM
Mike,

I use the shallow containers, and I fill the boxes up about 1/2 way. The ratio does not matter as long as the medium is slightly moist. I do about 50/50.

Brandon,

Someone was pulling your leg. I've never had any problem with that.

Nathan Hall
01-01-2005, 03:45 PM
Mike,

The Gladware is on the cool side for a couple of reasons. The boxes remain moist for longer periods of time, and the eggs don't cook. I keep the heat tape cranked up, and I think that the eggs would go bad at such warm temps. Don't apologize for asking questions. That's why I created this forum!

bugman426
01-02-2005, 01:20 PM
in that case, heres a few more...you said this in the above post:
" I use heat tape to warm the rear portion of the box to 88-92 degrees F. The ambient temp is usually 82-84 during the summer, and I dool cool them in the winter."

so during the year the avg temp is about 90, but in the summer you cool the avg temp to 83 and in the winter, you cool it even more to what?

how long do you cool for, and do you introduce the male before or after cooling?
during the coolinmg, are you supposed to mist the tank less, and feed less?

Nathan Hall
01-02-2005, 02:30 PM
The ambient temp in the enclosure during the summer is 82-84. The heat tape keeps the warm end close to 90. I shut the heat tape off for about six weeks during the winter. The ambient temp during the day is 68-70 and 60-65 at night. They will brumate at these low temps. I do not feed them during brumation, but I mist the enclosure about once a week. I introduce the males a couple of weeks after brumation when the heat tape is back on and the geckos are feeding again.

robk
01-03-2005, 03:34 PM
sorry to hijack the post a bit, but are the enclosure actually resting on the shelf they are on, i couldnt quite make it out from the picture. If so is the heat tape running along the back? Do you run all of the enclosures on one thermostat?

Thanks

Nathan Hall
01-03-2005, 03:39 PM
The heat cable snakes down the back of the rack.

bugman426
01-03-2005, 08:47 PM
Is it true that you dont need to cool them the first year they breed?

they should be here by the end of the week...prolly have a few more questions then asking you to see if my enclosure looks right, etc

thanks again for all the help

Nathan Hall
01-04-2005, 05:36 PM
Is it true that you dont need to cool them the first year they breed?

Yes and no. Some people feel that it is not a great idea to cool juveniles and sub-adults. If done properly, the cooling period shouldn't be too stressful for healthy adults, but you have to be careful with younger specimens. I didn't cool my first year U. milii, and they produced quite well for me. You can also fatten up younger specimens when they are not cooled.

bugman426
01-04-2005, 08:53 PM
well i got the tanks setup..its all good so far till i setup the heater--my basement gets pretty cold in the winter but i though that was fine..then i touched the sand on the cool side and it was actually cold--not room temp but cold--so what wattage red bulb would i put above? its al 10 gallon tank--thanks

Nathan Hall
01-05-2005, 12:27 AM
Are you using a heat pad? 25 watt if you want to use a lamp. I don't think it is a great idea to cool new arrivals. They are already stressed enough. I would go ahead and warm them up and make sure that the ambient temp is not too cool.

bugman426
01-05-2005, 12:26 PM
yes, im using an exo-therm 7 watt heat pad, with a rheostat and i turned the rheostat to "high"--it wasnt my goal to cool new arrivals, i just didnt think it would get as cold as it did

so i guess ill put another 25 watt over the tank

btw, whats a catch basin? do the geckos rest on top of it?

Nathan Hall
01-06-2005, 04:46 PM
A catch basin is what I use for gecko shelters. They are cheap. I cut a hole in the side and flip the catch basin over.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/catchbasin1.jpg

alive
01-07-2005, 04:39 PM
Nathan~Thanks for sharing such a experiance based knowledge~

I am going to build a somthing like that for my 2005 season, becasue I am expecting some eggs this year.

Nathan, could you share about tips of set up/condition for hatching underwood's eggs.

Thanks alot

bugman426
01-07-2005, 09:39 PM
good to see im not the only one asking the questions =)
thanks for bearing with me
i too wonder about the hatchlings

Nathan Hall
01-08-2005, 01:02 PM
Since this is not a fossorial species, there is no need for a deep substrate layer. I keep the juveniles singly in 6-quart shoeboxes for the first few months and switch to 15-quart boxes until adulthood. I use a fine sand substrate, and there is a small inverted catch basin on the cool side for shelter. I keep the boxes in rack systems.

http://www.geckosunlimited.com/U.miliijuvenile3.jpg

Nathan Hall
01-08-2005, 01:11 PM
I thought that you were asking about hatchling set-ups. I NEED MORE COFFEE!!!

If the eggs are fertile, they are easy to hatch. I use perlite and vermiculite. If I'm out of one, I use the other. I've had success with both. I add equal parts verm/perl. to water by weight. I poke several small holes in the container lid, and I put the container in an artificial incubator. At 82-85 degrees F, the eggs hatch in about 60 days. Simple as that!

Ari
01-19-2006, 08:26 AM
Just out of curiousity why do you have such high temperatures for your Milli. I have noticed this alot with other Australian species in the USA & Europe and just curious as to why?

The reason being is that 90-92 F is like 34 C & I never keep my Milli above 26 C in Summer which is like 79 F. This species in Australia is known for heat stress. I dont know of anyone who keeps their Milli above 26 C over here. Infact none of my geckos have ever been in a hot spot greater than 30 C being 88 F.

I have always wanted to know why such high temperatures?

I thought maybe that over time being bred and accustomed to these temperatures that they have adjusted - just curious as to what others keep their Milli at. Or maybe I am keeping them too cold.

Cheers in advance

Ari