View Full Version : Bavayia care-info

09-07-2006, 07:08 PM
Hi folks!

Does anyone got a good care sheet for Bavayia sp. ? I remember a good sheet from Brad Teague, but it isn´t online anymore. :(
Thanks for the help!


09-22-2006, 02:23 PM
Hopefully I saved it :wink:

here it is:

The Care and Breeding of Bavayia
By Brad Teague
*********** On the remote mainland of New Caledonia and Loyalty Islands lives a Genus of geckos that very little is known about. This genus is Bavayia, which currently consists of 12 species with many undescribed members to soon be added as more research is done.* B. crassicollis, B. cyclura, B. exsuccida, B. geitaina, B. madjo, B.montana, B. ornata, B. pulchella, B. robusta, B. sauvagii, B. septuiclavis, and B. validiclavis are the species making up the Genus Bavayia.
*********** This genus has been broken down further into smaller groups.* These are comprised of similar species with certain physical appearances, clumping them together.** These are the B. cyclura, B. crassicollis, and B. sauvagii groups. All species share the same coloration but have a slight difference in pattern and size.* The coloration found on Bavayia differentiates from shades of brown, yellow, orange, green, black, and cream.* The bands form along the head, back, and tail of the gecko of the B. cyclura and B.sauvagii groups.* The striped species, such as the cream stripes on B. validiclavis begin from the head down each eye along the back and break up as the stripes fade out at the tail.* Species of Bavayia are small to medium in size.* The largest members of this Genus are B. crassicollis (170~TL mm.), B. madjo (160~TL mm.), B. robusta (160~TL mm.), and B. montana (150~TL mm.).* The smallest members are B. exsuccida (90~TL mm.), B. pulchella (90~TL mm.), and B. validiclavis (90~TL mm.).* The bodies and limbs are thick with some species more flattened and others more rounded.* The tails are round and long and are semi-prehensile.* Regenerated tails have a completely different appearance and shape, which are short and stumpy.* The feet are equipped with well developed lamellae, allowing Bavayia to climb up any surface very quickly.* Bavayia’s physical structure allows them to scurry through dense forests with ease.
*********** Expeditions to New Caledonia, Loyalty Islands, and various uncharted islands around New Caledonia were traveled to by herpetologists and hobbyists from around the world.* The main focus of study was centered upon a different Genus, Rhacodactylus.* Other Genus such as Bavayia, Eurydactylodes, Nactus, and Lygodactylus were placed upon the back burners of Genus to study, capture, and breed.* This is surprising to me because Bavayia’s closest relative is the genus Hoplodactylus.* The genus Hoplodactylus contains the most bizarre geckos.* The main focus of all of the geckos within this area was the once thought to be extinct species, Rhacodactylus ciliatus, and the Giant Gecko, Rhacodactylus l. leachianus.* A few of the collectors brought back specimens of Bavayia, but the few that came were bred for a short amount of time and slowly died off, were sold, but the end result was Bavayia were dwindling out of collections.* The amount of specimens in captivity is relatively low today.* Most species of Bavayia are unobtainable, besides B. cyclura, B. montana, B. robusta, and B. sp (referred to by some, B. sauvagii).* The species above are still relatively hard to obtain.* The most common of those four to get are B. cyclura and B. robusta.* Additional information will be directed towards those four species.
*********** In the wild, Bavayia are found on low ground shrubs, saplings, termite-infested rotting wood, and leaf litter in the steep cool rainforests, which are very wet and humid.* A common sight is observing several Bavayia on the same bush or sapling together.* Bavayia are very social geckos in captivity and the wild.* Harems in the wild have been seen with a few males a numerous females on multiple occasions.* In captivity, harems can be achieved to a certain extent.* I have only experimented with B. sp (B. sauvagii), creating a harem with positive and negative outcomes.* In the beginning, I had 1.2 together in a cage measuring 21” H x 7” D x 10”W with driftwood, vines, arboreal hide, nest box, cypress mulch, and UV light above the screened top.* Breeding was steady but wasn’t as good as it could be.* I introduced an additional female, which created a cage full of commotion.* During the day, conditions were calm, sightings of individual specimens, usually female, were noted on pieces of driftwood or resting in tangled vines.* As the evening began, sightings of more geckos and signs of territorial displays began.* Signs of communication noted were flickering of the tongue, eye licking, tail waving, head jerking, biting followed by running, and chasing.* Vocalization can be heard as very high pitched chirps.* I believe that many other noises exist but are incapable of being heard by the human ear.* The cage appeared to be settling in nicely, until I began to notice small wounds, which healed up.* The worst thing was from adding the third female.* Part of her foot was bitten off by a cage mate. I assume that females have more aggression towards each other because seldom did I see a male attack a female.* The third female’s foot healed up, and she was accepted into the group.* A few months later I decided to try another female.* This female was beaten up badly.* After laying one clutch she died.* Since the loss of the fourth female I haven’t added any more females to the colony.* I think it is possible with more space.* Bavayia sp. (B. sauvagii) definitely establishes territories and are amusing to watch interact with cage mates in captivity.
*********** The weather in the wild is very cool with high precipitation annually.* To mimic these natural conditions in captivity is simple.* No heat source is needed.* UV lights are placed a few inches above the screen top, releasing enough heat to allow a very mild area to thermoregulate, but the lights sole purpose is a photoperiod.* The temperature during the day is 78’F under the lights and towards the bottom of the enclosure is 72’F.* At night, the temperature drops down in the low 70’s to the high 60’s.* The winter temperatures don’t drop significantly during the night or day.* To stimulate a winter “cooling” period, I reduce the day light hours, feeding, and misting for several months.* This seems to be enough to stop breeding and give the geckos a chance to rest.* I have had some females stop producing and take a rest on their own and start producing months later in the middle of their breeding season.* Winter conditions may not be crucial to replicate, but I find it advisable.* Creating high humidity, but allowing adequate air flow isn’t difficult.* On the sides of the cage are 3”x 3” screened ventilation holes and a screened top.* Those simple features will allow enough air flow for two or three times a day of moderately misting the cage.* The cage should be allowed to dry out before the next misting.* If this cannot be achieved, allowing molds, mushrooms, and fungus to grow then serious health issues may arise.* Respiratory infections and black spots are a few problems that can be deadly.* Bavayia are very hardy and low maintenance reptiles to keep in captivity.
*********** Bavayia are extremely aggressive nocturnal predators, chasing their prey and attacking with accuracy.* The diet in captivity consists of crickets and peach baby food for hatchling and adults fed in the evening. Before feeding, I mist the cage thoroughly.* If a keeper didn’t do that, all of the necessary supplements would wash off the crickets.* Adults will consume ¼” crickets, and hatchlings prefer 1 week old crickets, which compared to their small size is considerably large but are readily accepted.* My feeding regimen is every other day. On a weekly basis, crickets are fed at every meal except peach baby food once a week.* When baby food is feed in a colony, you can observe communal eating.* Hatchlings prefer baby food during the first weeks of their life, which is supplemented.* I supplement at every feeding, rotating Miner-All I, Herptivite, and Rep- Cal.* I primarily use Miner-All I solely, but once a week Herptivite is used and Rep Cal is used periodically.* When feeding a colony of hungry Bavayia, a person needs to make sure that enough crickets are fed, minimizing aggression.* Bavayia have large appetites.* When breeding, it’s imperative to provide enough food for the females that are under intense physical stress.* Rarely, I have seen a female with a slight kink towards the end of the tail.* This is a problem, but with extra calcium it can be fixed easily.* Bavayia sp. (Bavayia sauvagii) will readily take crickets and baby food from your fingers, resembling a nocturnal Phelsuma klemmeri. These predators of the night make them on of my favorite geckos to observe eating, and the communication among cage mates is comical.
*********** Housing Bavayia can be done elaborately or simplistically, as long as a few critical husbandry needs are met.* I have found that small cages are better than large ones.* Bavayia like to feel secure in their enclosures.* I found that a few hiding places, such as hollow bamboo, terra cotta dishes, cork bark, vines, drift wood, Ficus Trees, and black PVC pipe in caps, are all acceptable.* Given a few pieces of cage furniture, Bavayia will be less shy, and chances to observe them is higher.* A few specimens in my collection are extremely friendly, B. sp. (B. sauvagii), while others are always shy, B. robusta.* Suitable substrates are paper towel, mulch/bark, Bed-A-Beast, and sand mixed with soil.* Keep in mind that humidity plays a crucial role in keeping Bavayia.* Some substrates you may find aren’t adequate for achieving proper humidity levels.* Paper towel is suitable for juveniles as long as you watch humidity.* The substrate shouldn’t stay damp all the time, but you can create a section that is 60% moist and 40% semi-dry.* The geckos will tell you when husbandry conditions are not suitable by not eating or having trouble shedding.* Don’t let the size of Bavayia influence your decision on too small of an enclosure.* Hatchlings and small juveniles do best in small 4 oz. and 6 oz. deli cups.* As soon as girth increases on juveniles, which is around four months, they can be moved into larger cages, measuring 9” H x 7” D x 5” W.* Specimens can be kept in this size cage until breeding groups are placed together.* Larger species of Bavayia should be in the deli cups as mentioned earlier, but may need to be moved into larger individual cages as they become sub-adults.* If breeding is desired, caging should be designed appropriately.* Adult groups of one male and several females of the smaller species can be housed in cages measuring 21”H x 11”H x 7” D.* B. robusta may be kept in groups of one male and several females, but I haven’t experimented doing this.* I have heard success with breeding B. montana in groups of one male and two females.* Some Bavayia can be aggressive; watching for these signs can prevent death or loss of limbs. The only difference in keeping the animals single and in groups is that additional hiding spots are present, and a nest box is provided.* Nest boxes can be a 6 oz. deli cup filled with mediums such as vermiculite, Bed-A-Beast, potting soil, and other moist dirt-based substrates.
*********** Breeding Bavayia is not difficult.* The less you disturb the enclosure the more production you will receive.* To entice breeding, a period of reduced misting and feeding is reduced to weekly, then once every two weeks for a period of two months has triggered breeding for me.* As misting and food increases, vocalization, tail waving, and body jerking is noticed in species that are not secretive (B. sp/B. sauvagii).* When females are gravid it is visibly noticeable on the sides and the under belly.* I have always had females use their nesting box; however, some territorial females will try to knock the eggs out of the nest box.* I have always observed two soft shelled eggs laid around the outer edges of the deli cup towards the bottom.* Rarely, eggs are stuck to the plastic, but I have been able to remove them without injuring the eggs.* The eggs are the size of a tick-tac, which is oval and very oblong in shape.* I have some females that lay up to 6 clutches per season.* The majority of the eggs are fertile.* Incubating the eggs is simple.* A small container that is moist enough that when the medium is squeezed no water drips.* The incubation period can vary between 45-65 days at a fluctuating temperature between 72F-77F during the day and 69F-72F during the night.* After the egg is pipped, hatchlings either poke their head out of the egg for a day or crawl right out of the egg.* I leave them in the incubation container for 3 to four days.* When removing them from the egg box and transferring them into their new cages I check to make sure their yolk sac isn’t outside of t he body.* This is a common problem, which usually doesn’t create problems as long as their new cage is moist to help them absorb the rest of the yolk.* The second most common problem is hatchling premature geckos.* These are very slow to eat, but with patience they quickly catch up to an appropriate size for theirage.* I have heard that Bavayia are T.D.S.* In some species, such as B. sp. (B. sauvagii), males are difficult to produce.* I am practicing this now with that species.* I will know later if this is true.* Bavayia tend to grow in spurts, however in sub adults, it seems like an eternity before they finally reach adult size.* I wait a year before breeding a gecko.* In females, I really strive to make sure they have nice thick tails, which will aid in egg production.
*********** As time progresses, Bavayia will become increasingly popular.* The trouble will be finding species to obtain as supply is limited.* In time, more research is done, additional species will be described.* Currently, many species are being studied and are waiting to be described.* There are areas of New Caledonia and surrounding islands that have yet to be explored due to Native Tribes, rough water, lush rainforest, and funds.* I hope many gecko enthusiasts take advantage of specimens being offered in the hobby.

09-22-2006, 04:12 PM
Thanks a ton David !!

09-22-2006, 05:22 PM
Anyone heard from Brad Teague lately?

brandon f.
09-22-2006, 05:41 PM
i was wondering what was up with him myself......his website is down and everything.