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thorrshamri
04-11-2008, 03:17 PM
Care and breeding basics sheet for Ptychozoon kuhli ,Annandale 1905/Malayan Flying Gecko, based on my own experience.


http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8035/dscf5640lk7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


Adult size: SVL 70-95 mm, Total length 140-190 mm (6’’-8’’) Hatchling size: just over 5 cm (2’’).

Description: flying geckos have long, serrated tails ending up in a dermal, oval-shaped fold. They also have skin folds along their flanks and limbs which help them to “glide” in the air while jumping from one branch to another*. The eye has a brown iris and a vertical pupil, and is crossed by a dark stripe. The head is triangular and well set from the rest of the body, the feet are all webbed. Some individuals have a light-coloured stripe on their backs, the overall colour ranges from dark brown to light grey with a wavy pattern on the back. This species is a particularly cryptic one, being able to press against tree trunks, casting no shadow thanks to their large dermal folds and imitating bark with lichenous growths. The underside can be creamy white, grey, dull brick red, or light brown but is always lighter-coloured than the back. These are very fast and agile critters, always on the alert, and are escape artists, a point to consider during cleaning tasks and planning for the vivarium settings. Their bodies are very flat. The tail does not seem to break off easily and regenerated tails are quite rare even in wild-caught specimens. These geckos have strong claws and pads with setae enabling them to climb on the smoothest surfaces.

*just like flying squirrels do.

My Ptychozoon kuhli pair :

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/9365/dscf5116oa2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/323/dscf4986ox1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img168.imageshack.us/img168/725/dscf5447pv6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

1. Tail shape
1.1 Tail tip :

http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/9238/dscf5443rb8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img183.imageshack.us/img183/5812/dscf5473kp6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

P. lionotum has a relatively short and narrow tail end ,whereas P. kuhli’s tail shown here ends in a broad ,spatula-shaped tail .

1.2 Serrated tails

It is generally believed a tail serrated backwards indicates P. lionotum while a tail serrated straight ,making a right angle with the tail axis ,is typical of P. kuhli .None of the scientific papers published asserts this .Tails are serrated in both species and some kuhli specimens may have tails serrated slightly backwards ,so it does not count as a specific feature .

2. Head and tongue

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6195/dscf4640ii0.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/7839/dscf5324sb5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

P. kuhli’ s tongues display in most cases ,but not all ,a black tip .A whole pink tongue would indicate in 90% of cases a P. lionotum .Heads of both species are similar ,I have made a close-up pic to show the scalation of the labials .

3. Color

Both species are often prone to color changes according to heat ,lighting ,stress ,and environmental criteria .Color is in no way a means to differentiate both species .

4. Inbreeding

No case of kuhli x lionotum intergrades were ever reported .It would be wise to think such hybrids are impossible ,both in the wild and in terrariums ,as both species are partially sympatric .

5. Dorsal tubercles

2-6 rows of spiny ,tiny scales protruding and called tubercules are a distinctive feature of kuhli adults (for both sexes ) whereas lionotum don’t have any such tubercles .

P. lionotum (Photo courtesy Henke from Sweden ):

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/7269/pl3sr9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

P. kuhli :

http://img211.imageshack.us/img211/5372/dscf4649bt3.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/1286/dscf4649sj5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/9588/dscf4656vo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Green arrows on the above shots indicate the position of the tubercles .

6. Forefeet :

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/1452/dscf5159dw2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/55/dscf5055zo4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

All four feet are webbed and bear strong claws .In P. kuhli ,the toes in the forefeet are all gathered by the webbed skin between the toes .In P. lionotum ,the toe situated the nearest to the body in both forefeet tends to be separated from the others .

7. Sexing

Ventral view :

http://img112.imageshack.us/img112/7164/dscf4663zr9.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/8281/dscf4667sm4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img502.imageshack.us/img502/4654/dscf4673vx7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

Hemipenal bulges are less obviously noticeable than in other gecko species ,but the row of pre-anal pores only seen in males is unmistakable .

Legal info: not listed in the CITES appendix nor restricted in the EU.

Geographical range: Peninsular Malaysia, southern Thaïland ,Nicobar islands ,Sumatra, Java, Brunei, Sabah and Sarawak with all the neighbouring islands.

Climate and biotope: Flying geckos inhabit damp, dark and warm primary forests in their native range. These areas are subject to monsoon and very heavy rainfall, and humidity never drops very low. Temperatures under these latitudes can easily reach 90-95°F. They can also be found in plantations and are seldom seen in mountains above 3,000 feet. Human settlements attract them, especially where there are bright light sources at night which make all sort of bugs and insects gather. Temperatures never fall under 70°F throughout the year. There are three seasons: rainy season from May to October with high temps and continual and heavy rainfall, NE winds make the air drier and cooler from October to February, then for 2-3 months the rains start again with less intensity but temperatures increase. These geckos can be found above ground level on trunks but they can also reach the canopy, several tens of feet above the forest floor.

Natural History: They spend the day under bark crevices or on tree trunks and actively forage for prey at night. They are not strictly nocturnal, from time to time I see my animals moving and even hunting for prey during daytime, but they are mostly active in the evening. They are strictly arboreal, a prolonged sojourn on the ground would mean death is near. This is a very active species, able to communicate through soft, creaking sounds and very territorial. Never house more than one male in the same enclosure! Even females can sometimes be aggressive with one another. For this reason they are best kept in pairs or, at most, trios.

Purchase and quarantine: Most specimens found in reptile shops and events are wild-caught and need at least one month of quarantine with 2 checks for parasites at a 2-weeks interval. One single fecal sample showing no parasites would not mean the animals are not infected, as parasites follow certain cycles and are only eliminated from time to time in the geckos’stools. This must be done with the assistance, or under the control of a qualified veterinarian. WC specimens also need to be rehydrated by frequent spraying with slightly warm water, they usually do not drink from vessels but only lick drops of sprayed water. Red mites are very often found on them and they can be a plague, transmitting severe bacterial, viral or protozoic diseases to the geckos, harassing them and drinking their blood. I have successfully eliminated such mites with Carbyl® , 2 pinches of powder sprayed in their viv but not on the geckos, repeated 3 times in a month will usually kill all mites. Be conscious that red mites eggs are laid everywhere and are not visible to the human eye, and a reptile collection can quickly be infested if nothing is done. Flying geckos once treated for parasites are very hardy, but many amateur herpers lose their animals in this process. I have had 7 flying geckos and none of them died, but I have often heard of an alarming death rate with imports. Whenever you can, it is better in all respects to buy captive-bred specimens. Browse the specialized forums as it is not too difficult to find CB flying geckos.

Most imports come from Peninsular Malaysia or Indonesia.

Handling: These geckos do not like at all being handled. First, they can easily escape your hands, second, they are able to bite you-it is not painful for the keeper but shows unnecessary stress that should be avoided. They are perfect display geckos, but not pets to be regularly handled. If ever one of your flying geckos escapes, slowly approach it, and try to entrap it under the palm of your hand, that usually works well, but nothing shall frighten the gecko in the meantime.

The vivarium: 20 gallons glass tanks will be perfect for them. Do not use tanks with screen tops, as they tend not to hold enough moisture. The tank should be at least 50cm/20’’ high but apart from that, these animals need space, be it vertical or horizontal. My trio is kept in a 24’’ longx 20’’ highx16’’ deep glass tank with 2 opposite ventilations and they really thrive in it. Juveniles shall be kept in smaller and individual enclosures, 10’’x10’’x12’’ will be fine. Make sure the vivarium doors close well and that there are no escape possibility, as the geckos will readily exploit the minutest holes or openings to find their way out.

Substrate and cage furnishing: I use coconut mould in a 2-inch deep layer, and I would not advise wood chips ,vermiculite or other similar substrates as they do not keep moisture properly, more, the geckos dive so readily on prey that they could ingest bark chips or vermiculite. Coconut mould gently releases humidity as needed and makes a perfect bedding. No sharp element nor stone must be present as the geckos would injure themselves on these elements while jumping. Cork bark oak hides are much appreciated, and the back and side walls of the tank should be covered with cork panes with colours helping the geckos to blend on them. Potted plants are also much more advisable than plastic plants, as potted plants will give additional moisture, hides, laying sites. You can use various non-spiny bromeliads, tropical ferns, small yuccas, Scindapsus aureus and similar tropical hardy plants. Bamboo canes places vertically and/or 1 to 2 inches diameter branches will complete the enclosure furnishing and will match the needs of this species.

Heating and lighting: UVBs are not an absolute necessity, though it cannot harm to use a 5% UVB light source such as an economic bulb made for terrarium animals or special neon tube. I have always kept my animals using UVB radiations. Lighting and heating aggregates work 12 hours a day all year long. The basking spot can be unusually warm for a gecko species: the basking area can safely reach 95-100°F (35-38°C) while the cool end will be in the low 80°F (26-29°C) during the day. Night temps should drop to 70-75°F (20-24°C) all year long. A heating cable placed on the outside of the back wall and connected to a thermostat will give the ambient heat, while the aforementioned bulb will generally be enough to provide the warm end (26W Hagen® UVB 5% bulbs are perfect for that use). These critters like warm if not hot and wet atmospheres, and tend to shun away very bright light sources.

Humidity: a daily ,heavy spraying of the viv will be enough to ensure the correct moisture level for this species. Spraying should be reduced in the winter months to simulate the dry season. Misting units can be a good trick if you have plenty of vivaria or if you often go on holiday, such devices exist with very precise timers and water tanks. Foggers are useless with these animals, they would bring more aesthetics than being really useful to hydrate the geckos properly. At night, a 80-95% moisture level is needed at all times if you do not want your animals to dehydrate or to have shedding troubles. Humidity can safely reach 60% at the driest point of the day, as it corresponds to the rainforest conditions.

Feeding: ¾ inches (2cm) crickets dusted with a proper supplement once every other feeding will make a perfect diet. Flying geckos seem to prefer fast-moving prey items rather than worms or caterpillars, and my own geckos readily accept prey from tweezers. 2-6 crickets per adult animal every 3 days is a good feeding scheme. Juveniles shall be fed smaller crickets daily. Do not use vitamins with juveniles under 3 months of age, that would harm or even kill them. As an alternative, silkworms are sometimes accepted, small roaches are very much appreciated y the geckos, but they seem to ignore static prey such as baby locusts or waxworms, unless they are very hungry.

Supplements: I use Calcamineral®, Miner-All I® or T-Rex 2:0. Very important: avoid mineral supplements which contain phosphore, as prey items are already holding excesses of phosphore, and be careful about the amount of vitamins present in the supplement, too much vitamins can be worse than not enough and trigger severe nutritional pathologies.

Breeding: It occurs through spring and summer, and a drier and cooler period stimulates breeding, mating starts when temperatures and sprayings are increased. Males tend to be quite harsh when approaching females, and you must carefully monitor your females which may get injured at that moment. After a month or so, it is easy to see when a female is about to lay eggs:

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/4855/dscf5737hj8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

They lay 2 white, hard-shelled eggs usually glued to a piece of bark or onto the viv’s glass panes, sometimes in leaf axils of potted plants. These eggs should be removed with great care as they are extremely thin-shelled and fragile. Do not try to separate the eggs from one another, you would break them for sure. Incubation can be made in plastic cricket boxes placed inside the viv, as parents will eat the unprotected young as soon as they would hatch if you do not protect the eggs in such a container. The box is filled with moist coconut mould and perlite and eggs are left to incubate on the piece of wood they were stuck to. It takes about 75-85 days to get the first births at daily temps of 90°F and night temps as mentioned above. Rearing the young poses no particular problem as soon as you have a regular supply of very small live prey (wingless fruitflies, pinhead crickets).

Market price of the species: £20/€30/US $ 40-45 is the average price for an adult, be it WC or CB, on the continental European herp market. Of course you will have to spend much more for the viv, heating and lighting devices, say around £200/€300/US $ 450.

Difficulty: 2 to 3-intermediate keepers only, not for beginners, especially without experience of arboreal geckos.

© Hervé Saint Dizier, 2008

niccoliherp
04-12-2008, 08:33 AM
Very nice caresheet Herve. We've needed one on this species for a while now.

weecamo
04-19-2008, 09:32 AM
Flying Gecko - Ptychozoon kuhlii (http://www.exotic-pets.co.uk/flying-gecko.html)

does this seem a good website to buy from? I love the look of these geckos and may buy one in years to come. These Ptychozoon kuhlii are captive farmed.

Elizabeth Freer
01-24-2009, 01:14 AM
Hi Herve ~

What a totally thorough care sheet you have written here with wonderfully clear illustrations! Great job and many thanks! :banana: :yahoo: :cheer:

Palor
01-24-2009, 03:46 AM
That is a great care sheet!

thorrshamri
01-24-2009, 07:50 AM
Thanks all :biggrin:

meloha
02-28-2009, 11:30 AM
Thanks so much -- this is a great care sheet!!

Melody

Phelsuma madagascariesis madagascariesis
Phelsuma laticauda laticauda
Phelsuma cepediana
Phelsuma klemmeri
Rhacodactylus cilatus
And a bunch of other stuff...turtles...frogs

leedragon
11-05-2011, 05:29 PM
what about fruit? does anyone know if they eat fruit? and what kind of fruit in that case?

meloha
11-05-2011, 07:29 PM
My pair has never eaten fruit, though I've offered it.

hypnotoad28
07-31-2012, 09:01 PM
does anyone know where you can get cb ptychozoons in the U.S.? ive been looking for quite some time.:(

Elizabeth Freer
08-01-2012, 03:12 AM
does anyone know where you can get cb ptychozoons in the U.S.? ive been looking for quite some time.:(

Just sent you a PM.

Exoticsforev
06-30-2013, 04:31 PM
I, too have been looking around for them. The only pairs of flying geckos I have purchased is from a place that imports them and they come in loaded w/mites but seem to be dong well. Fun lil guys that's for sure, I'm also looking to see what I can use in their Vivarium to kll the lil'blood suckers? I've heard of a ~spray~ but forgot the name:(
Any leads to purchasing both a Pair/Trio of cb or treated wc's and the name of the spray would Greatly Appreciated.
Thanks for the Herpn help Guys/Galls
JC

thorrshamri
06-30-2013, 04:41 PM
I used Carbaryl at that time, placing the infested geckos with a tiny amount of Carbaryl powder inside a cricket box for 30 minutes. As for their settings, you have to throw to the bin most of what's inside (branches, substrate, plants...) and use a steam cleaner, being particularly careful as mite eggs are tiny and are often laid in the minutest cracks or corners.

steam cleaner (http://mamatvshop.com/product.php?recordID=20) such cleaners will do.

Elizabeth Freer
07-01-2013, 12:53 AM
I, too have been looking around for them. The only pairs of flying geckos I have purchased is from a place that imports them and they come in loaded w/mites but seem to be dong well. Fun lil guys that's for sure, I'm also looking to see what I can use in their Vivarium to kll the lil'blood suckers? I've heard of a ~spray~ but forgot the name:(
Any leads to purchasing both a Pair/Trio of cb or treated wc's and the name of the spray would Greatly Appreciated.
Thanks for the Herpn help Guys/Galls
JC


Welcome to Geckos Unlimited, JC.

GU's Palor, Daniel Martindale, has had success breeding Ptychozoon kuhli. You may wish to contact him here or on FB.

This is a safe mite treatment that works permanently as long as you find all the mites and have not given them the opportunity to reproduce.

Take a q-tip dipped in vegetable oil and apply directly to the mite to suffocate it.
Brush off the dead mite with a dry q-tip.
Repeat this procedure with clean q-tips until all the mites are gone.
No other treatment required!

Once at a show I did not have vegetable oil. So I tried the same procedure with moistened bar soap. 28 mites later all was well. This male flyer is doing well today about 8 years later.

thorrshamri
07-01-2013, 03:31 AM
The problem with this method is that the mites' tiny rostrum - heavily infested with various harmful bacteria- may stay inside the gecko skin once removed, which can cause abcesses under their skin ;)

Elizabeth Freer
07-01-2013, 04:57 AM
The problem with this method is that the mites' tiny rostrum - heavily infested with various harmful bacteria- may stay inside the gecko skin once removed, which can cause abcesses under their skin ;)

Subcutaneous abcesses seemed not to happen with the male flyer I treated with moistened bar soap.

What is your source of Carbaryl, Herve?

http://npic.orst.edu/factsheets/carbgen.pdf

thorrshamri
07-01-2013, 07:43 AM
I was recommended Carbaryl by vet. Dr. Bruno Gattolin who has worked on reptiles since the early 1980s for the said reason and got a supply of it which is still usable according to the date on the packages ;)

Exoticsforev
07-01-2013, 07:46 AM
Thank You Both for ur responseses! I still am in question here.
#1) if I do treat w/meds, how and where do I obtain some and is it xpnsive?
#2). If I use the oil treatmnent, how often and for how long should I treat them for?

These lil guys are so much fun that I can not wait to be successful @ breeding and rearing of their young. I DO/WOULD LOVE for either Palor or Daniel to get ahold of me, if they wouldn't mind.
I also am currently breeding Veiled, Jacksons and Sambava Panthers. Which I've been doing for awhile now and really enjoy the heck outta them too, but these Lil' Flyers take the cake when it comes to kicking back and observing, I don't do it very often because their WC and normally do not get spied on in the wild haha, athat and I do not want to disrupt their natural cycle.
This is another reason I would like to discuss w/a current and active breeder, I'm curious about mating behaviors and what to look and watch for.
Wow, this was a long post, sorry Everybody, Anyhow, Thanks again for all the info this List has and for all the Help~may we all have a AWESOME, Blessed Day. Happy Herping Friends!!!!
JC
EXoticConnecTionz

Exoticsforev
07-01-2013, 07:58 AM
So...these mites act as ticks? Do they burrow their heads and all that's exposd is their body?
JC

Exoticsforev
07-01-2013, 08:05 AM
Thanks Thor...and hope all is well in Normandy. {What part do u live in, I'm in the States, in a State of the Great NorthWest known as Idaho}. Anyhow, not to be Stupid, but I have a ? for You.....what's a <Rostrum>? Is it their body?
JC
EXoticConnecTionz

thorrshamri
07-01-2013, 08:31 AM
http://wildlifesecrets.com.au/content/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/mite2.jpg

Can you see the pair of appendages ending the "head" of this microscopic view of a reptile mite? There are 250+ species of mites known to infest reptiles but most of them have the same overall anatomy. These are the said rostrum. It is through this piercing organ that mites go through skin and are able to feed on their hosts. When feeding, mites always use the full length of it, so by drowning them, as the rostrum-head connexion is fragile, you risk breaking both appendages which will hereafter stay inside the host's body.
About personal conversations, please let us not go off topic, I'm sending you a private message. ;)

Exoticsforev
07-01-2013, 08:43 AM
Thank You Thor- I'll Steer clear ofd my bob and weave on Discussion topics...lol. I have a tendency of doing such. Plus I read the MSDS sheet on the Carbaryl.....seems like thw best bet...have some ?s, but will take it off List so not to confuse anybody.
Thanks
JC

Elizabeth Freer
07-01-2013, 01:14 PM
Thank You Both for ur responseses! I still am in question here.
#1) if I do treat w/meds, how and where do I obtain some and is it xpnsive?
#2). If I use the oil treatmnent, how often and for how long should I treat them for?
......


JC
EXoticConnecTionz

I treated all those 28 mites immediately after purchasing the WC flyer male. I only needed to treat them once. None returned. So thankful I did not have more to deal with in the cage furnishings and all.

Here's some additional info to consider:
Reptile Mites - Karingal Vet Hospital (http://www.karingalvet.com.au/Pet-Care/Reptiles-and-Amphibians/Reptile-Mites.asp)

Exoticsforev
07-01-2013, 04:50 PM
Now THAT was a very informative Article on Mites. A lot of info thrown into it on the Treatment and Prevention of re~occurance. Thanks so much...now its time to clean my Guys n Gals and probably put them into a new setup with new furniture...another cha~ching headed my way I can see...ugh! LOL. :-) ya all have been so helpful, thanks again..? LOL. :-)

Koné
02-18-2014, 12:39 PM
Are these available in canada? I'm expecting, if anywhere, to find them at an expo, but if anyone know any breeders, it would be greatly appreciated! Great care sheet btw!

Elizabeth Freer
02-18-2014, 02:58 PM
Are these available in canada? I'm expecting, if anywhere, to find them at an expo, but if anyone know any breeders, it would be greatly appreciated! Great care sheet btw!

GU's Palor (Daniel Martindale) has had good success breeding Ptychozoon kuhli. He lives in the USA.