View Full Version : Lygodactylus Williamsi

06-10-2008, 04:31 PM
Lygodactylus Williamsi


Scientific chart
Accepted scientific name: Lygodactylus williamsi LOVERIDGE 1952 (accepted name)
Common name: Williams' Dwarf Gecko
Classification: AnimaliaPhylum ChordataClass ReptiliaOrder Squamata Family
Gekkonidae Genus: Lygodactylus
Distribution: Tanzania

In the wild these blue green arboreal dwarf gecko's can only be found in a small tropical forest in Tanzania.
They have been introduced into the hobbyist community recently due to deforestication of their natural habitat but these animals are still rare to get.
Due to intensive breeding in europe the number of CB specimens is growing but it still will take a while before they will be seen on the market more often.
I also expect strict laws in the near future to protect these little blue gems.

Size: 6- 10cm (2,5-4”)

Feeding: fruit flies, small crickets (calcium & vitamin dusted),new born roaches (white ones), phelsuma fruit & honey mixture (mixed fruit, fruit baby food, honey, vitamins)

Environment/housing: Eastern-Tanzania tropical forest
A vertical orientated tropical terrarium with lots of branches and plants.
A small/ medium sized vivarium is large enough for a pair or trio.

Temperature & humidity: 25-29°C/78-85°F and a dry, sunny place for basking. 50–80% RHV (misting provides drinking water)
UV lighting should be provided

Breeding: In a couple of weeks clutches of 2 to 4.eggs get pasted somewhere high in the enclosure. Conditions for the eggs: humid, no direct water on the eggs and temperature of 26 to 30 degrees Celsius.
No need for incubation, best to leave the eggs in the enclosure.
The parents are often not so protective of their Young and eggs so cover them with deli cup or something similar. Remove the young when hatched to another enclosure or they will become a snack for the parents.

Young animals need a lot of calcium and UV so provide them powdered fruit flies & pinheads
After 7 months they reach sexual maturity.

Sexing: dominant males have a beautiful blue color, females a copperish coloration with some dark green.
Young males or surpressed males will also be greenish like the females so the best way to sex them is to check for hemipenises bulges and femoral pores. Males often will have a full black beard while females have a lighter beard that is divided in lines.
Both sexes have a orange and yellow underside wich is as spectacular as their blue colors.

A trio with one young male and two females

Males are territorial, so keep them separated or keep them in a large enclosure with lots of hiding places to minimize encounters.
They will puff their throats, color their beards darker and swing their heads from side to side. This is followed by face licking or a short chase.

It's important to check for mites with imports.
So put them in quarantine for a while and threat the for mites if necessary before introducing them to their enclosure.

When working with young animals shedding can be a difficult matter.
My young male had a retained shed on one flank of his body although he had a regular bath at that time (he just finished his treatment for mites) and high humidity in the cage.
So if you see a dark spot that doesn't belong, give it a warm bath and help his shed with tweezers.
The scales underneath the bad shed will be less developed so it's better to desinfect it a couple of times to keep it from getting infected. (procedure was confirmed by a local vet)

Feel free to correct or add information
If you have trouble to find in depth information
try to find info on other Lygodactylus species or even phelsuma klemmeri



08-01-2008, 07:34 PM
Do you have any information as to how to induce mating. I saw my pair mating a couple of months ago, but no eggs were laid. I haven't spotted any mating since.

08-02-2008, 03:56 AM
The fact you don't see it doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
Give them a humid warm space at the top of the terrarium, avoid stress and let them do their thing.

08-06-2008, 12:42 PM
What is the best treatment for mites on the Lygodactylus? My male williamsi that came in yesterday had a few mites on his arm. Thank you.

-Jon DeLong

08-07-2008, 05:19 AM
I removed most of the mites with this tool and a magnifying glass only the ones between the toes are really hard to remove this way.

Put the reptile in a warm bath for 20 min. 3 times a day (don't drown your pet).
You'll probably see little red dots floating in the water afterwards.

Vasoline,mineral oil, reptile relief, Mite off are some of the products used to suffocate the mites. Just put some of the product on the mites with a cotton bud or put some of the product on a cloth and gently wrap your reptile in it.

This way you should be able to remove the mites within 2 days.

I've heard also of a new product in liquid form, just put a drop on the back of your reptile and the mites should go away. (same principal as cat anti flea drops i guess)

Places mites love to hide in-> armpits, between the toes, throat, belly and in the corners of the eyes.

08-08-2008, 03:00 AM
How big are the mites? I have looked at my pair and am hoping they arn't carrying any. If mine did have some i doubt id be able to catch and hold them- they are very skittish.

08-08-2008, 04:42 AM
How big are the mites?
like a grain of sand

If they are too skittish you still can give them a nice bath.

Search for small red dots.


when you like closely this one has small red dots around the front arm as well

If you need more info there are a couple of threads on mites in the pest/disease subforum.

08-24-2008, 01:57 PM
thanks for the care sheet.

About spotting mites, they are so small that I found the best way is to make some good high quality digital pictures through the glass and then enlarge them with the computer: becomes very easy to see smal red spots and no stres on the animals.

Ciao, Dino

10-23-2008, 06:00 PM
What are the incubation times for these guys ?

10-26-2008, 04:49 AM
2-3 months

11-03-2008, 07:24 AM
What are the ideal steps to take when you first get a freshly imported William's? As far as cage size and type, lighting, and light cycle, medication if any, how best to hydrate it, what kinds of things to put in the cage? Is it best to keep fresh imports separated or together?

11-03-2008, 11:56 AM
20 gallon is a good size for a pair or trio - it's less interesting to keep them in larger groups (more fights, stress)

For freshly imported it's important to get them back on the right weight so enough food and water is a must.

11-11-2008, 08:06 AM
What is the best substrate to put in a L. williamsi cage?

11-14-2008, 02:43 AM
coconut husk ships will do fine. They are too big for them to swallow + the animals probably will never go to the bottom of the cage.

01-20-2009, 10:13 PM
2 days ago i bought a couple of these amazing small Lygodactylus williamsi lizards.
A bit of an impulse buy, but i keep 3 chameleons (and eggs) so i would say i know what i am doing...........mostly!

when i pruchsed them they were in a small 6" by 6" little habitat cage, and both were bight blue.

i have them now in a 3foot tall by 2foot by 2foot terrarium, with a UVB light and under heater.
no basking light as yet.

i have seen them eat small crickts, even a small meal worm, and lick some honey that i put in.
they seem quite active and healthy BUT

they have compeletely changed colour!!

first of all they are VERY hard to tell apart!
One seems to be more coppery green now....so is that a female? do i have a pair?
but also one seems to be out and about more - the blueish one.
and the other one goes dark....i mean black dark all over....and tends to hide in a crevice at the top of the cage wall..........
then the other one went all dark and almost black as well.
they do not appear to fight....or challenge each other

so question:
in a smaller enclosure they did not seem to exhibit this colour change
in chameleons the dark colour suggests stress or challenge...esp from females that do not want to mate.

they were soooooo pretty when bright blue. the shop owner said they had no problem being kept together..........so is this behaviour normal, and/or what can i/should i do (esp if i want to see them bright blue again!)


01-21-2009, 01:53 AM
You have 2 males. It's not advisable to keep them together.

01-21-2009, 03:09 AM
Like Dana said you have two male . The blue being dominant is challenging the other and causing stress to both of them . Seperate them asap . Try to locate some females , a good indicator is the lack of black under the throat . Males have a full black under throat were females dont .

03-16-2009, 04:57 PM

I have been offered a pair of these geckos for a relatively decent price. I was wondering what they are like as pets?

Are they handlable? They are certainly very pretty.

I've also been offered Lygodactylus fischeri, i wondered if you knew anything about caring for these? There seems to be little, if any information on them. I might even go as far to say as they are even more beautiful than the williamsi, with more pastel, but still brilliant blues and greens.

I would very much appreciate any help you can give me.

Best wishes,

03-16-2009, 06:35 PM

I have been offered a pair of these geckos for a relatively decent price. I was wondering what they are like as pets?

Are they handlable? They are certainly very pretty.

I've also been offered Lygodactylus fischeri, i wondered if you knew anything about caring for these? There seems to be little, if any information on them. I might even go as far to say as they are even more beautiful than the williamsi, with more pastel, but still brilliant blues and greens.

I would very much appreciate any help you can give me.

Best wishes,

These are one of my favorite geckos, they're very active and beautiful, not to mention the fun of watching their interactions with each other. I find them to be somewhat like most phelsumas, you [I]can[I] handle them but they seem to prefer being left alone, and with their size you have to be very careful. The caresheet at the beginning of this thread is excellent and pretty much takes care of everything. Good luck Aimee!:D

04-20-2009, 11:02 AM
hi i am very new to this i got a pair of williamsi geckos 2weeks ago but the female is a bit skinny. i have seen her eat a couple of crickets and some grapes. can anyone tell me how to fatten her up a bit please. thank you

04-20-2009, 09:40 PM
fruit flies. they love em. put rotten fruit in and stand back!
one of my lizards died while i was away, but the other if fat and healthy. BUT he seems to shed a lot and always have problems shedding even tho i mist and keep it humid.

04-29-2009, 08:12 PM
I got a pair of these a week ago tomorrow. I have a question about their eating habits for anyone that has these guys as pets.

Since bringing them home, they've only eaten three small (not pinhead) crickets between them. I'm keeping them at a constant daytime temperature of 82 degrees with a spot where they can get to the mid to high 80's. The spot is UVA and I have a UVB fluorescent bulb. Lights are on for 14-15 hours then I switch to an undertank heater and the ambient temperature goes to the mid 70's. They are sprayed several times per day to raise the humidity to more than 85%. I had them in a terrarium with EcoEarth for a substrate, climbing vines. But after more than 2 days of not eating, I moved them to a small cricket-keeper which I placed inside the terrarium with paper towels for substrate and a cardboard hiding spot which I spray to give them drink and for humidity. After putting in there is when the three crickets were eaten, but only over the course of the next 3-1/2 days. After 4 days of not eating, I picked up fruit flies. They were not interested. They have produced some feces, but since they are together I can't say which one is producing it or which is even eating (or both).

So my question is, how often do these guys eat? Should I be worried? Any comments are appreciated!!!!!! :(

Also, I saw some posts in this thread about other food items like grapes and honey. What other food items can I offer them? And does anyone have the recipe for the fruit and honey mixture described in the care sheet?

04-29-2009, 08:55 PM
i have a pair.
when i first got them i used to worry about feeding...but they snapped up the teeny crckets that i put in.
the male will lick honey off my finger, and/or find it in the cage.
i put in crickets ina feeding bowl and leave them there. i do not see them eat now.
i also put in grapes cut in half, which i see them lick.
and a pear that i let go off to attract fruit flies, which i have never seen them eat, but i am told they do.

my problem is that the male seems to shed every 2-3 weeks, but not very well, so i have to isolate him and cover him in water and shed aid to help him with his shed, particularly his eyes.
yes, it is humid enough.

05-06-2009, 02:36 PM
Hmm, no expert here; but I have had a male (used to be paired up, but the female died a couple of weeks after she arrived) for about 3 months now and he is an eating machine. Have you checked them for mites/parasites? Might be worth while as that may be contributing to the problem. They could just be stressed from being in a new environment as well. I feed a daily diet of FF's and 1/4 inch crickets 3x/week and I mix plain yogurt with tropical baby food and a mulitvitamin to give to him 2x/week. He is always very aggressive when feeding. He also jumps into the feeding cup on a regular basis!!! Good luck with them. They're awsome little geckos.


05-06-2009, 03:34 PM
Sorry to here she died brent Im producing hatchlings now so let m eknow if you are looking for another girl down the road .

My pair has eatten heavily from day 1 . i feed sm to med size crickets , mealies , wax worms , LG fruit flys and yogurt . I feed every other day . I recommend looking for mights , and getting fecal samples out to someone to look for parasites . Im not sure who can help with fecals though :(

05-06-2009, 05:06 PM
Thanks, definitely let me know. I would like to get this guy some lady friends!! Crappy thing is she seemed to be doing fine! Active, good weight, no outward appearance of parasites and treated before I received her w/ Flagyll. Day before I found her dead, I saw her shoot off of her perch and attempt to grab some FF's only to see her arms kinda seize up. After a few minutes she seemed fine. I had been supplementing them with good supplements (just bought before they arrived) but I found her lifeless on her perch the next day. Very strange:-x The male has thrived, moved him into his 46 bowfront and he's living large! Literally! Haha, dude is kinda round in the middle!

Sorry to here she died brent Im producing hatchlings now so let m eknow if you are looking for another girl down the road .

My pair has eatten heavily from day 1 . i feed sm to med size crickets , mealies , wax worms , LG fruit flys and yogurt . I feed every other day . I recommend looking for mights , and getting fecal samples out to someone to look for parasites . Im not sure who can help with fecals though :(

05-20-2009, 07:15 PM
to maintain humidity, could i use a ultrasonic fogger?

05-24-2009, 10:45 PM
Well, my male is doing quite well, but the female didn't make it. I was so sad. Jpg, if you do have any ladies, I would love to give one a home.

06-01-2009, 01:29 PM
Bought what I thought was a pair last friday (turned out to be two males) so I put them in a 10 gallon tank separated by a thick piece of plastic. The male that was initially blue has been very dark (almost black) these last few days. I have a UVB light on them right now and both have good basking areas. I have some fake busy viney plants in there to give them added cover. I'm getting 2 exo-terras today for them. My problem is that I have not seen either of them eat! I've seen them lap up some water after I mist, but that's it. The majority of the time that I have seen them, the dominant male has been almost black! The younger male (that was mistaken for a female) has not exhibited any change in color that would lead me to believe he is equally stressed.

I have no idea what to do! I don't want to loose either of them!

I have offered fruit flies, pinhead crickets, fruit and honey mixtures, JUST honey, and I have YET to see either of them eat. I started out with the honey mixture on the bottom of the tank, then I changed it so that they are elevated (so they don't have to go to the bottom to eat), and STILL nothing. The stressed out male is really worrying me.... I thought they'd lighten up once I had them separated and in a good enclosure, but I guess that's not the case. What am I doing wrong??? Or am I just being impatient?? :( HELP!

06-01-2009, 02:09 PM
either he's too cold or he has a retained shed cutting off his bloodcirculation either way give him a handwarm bath. Don't drown him...

06-01-2009, 02:11 PM
Ok I will try that :). Thank you!

06-18-2009, 11:48 AM
I am just gathering information in my attempt to create a nice enviroment for a trio of Lygodactylus Williamsi I intend to buy. Something I am having trouble finding is the night time minimum temperature. I see the temperature scope is between 25 to 29 deg c. presumably this is day time.
My vivarium temperature is fine in the day just with the lighting,(hotter in areas very high up) however this drops to 20 deg in the night.
Is this too cold ?
should I use a ceramic heat bulb and thermostat to increase this night time temperature ?
Or do these lovely little creatures appreciate a night time drop ?
Another question on my mind is, are crickets a must have food or will small locusts be eaten ? The thinking behind this is I see they spend most of the time off the floor and in the mid and high canopies, if locusts were used as the main protein source and they are vegetarian, I could just add a number without worrying about the Williamsi being eaten themselves(as crickets in the night might. Would the crickets in the day not just hide under the floor debris-substrate) ?
thank you in anticipation
geoff (moggsy)

06-18-2009, 01:09 PM
I don't know much about L Williamsi except that they are really small, so I am not sure if locusts would work. Small crickets would.

I suppose small locusts might work, but I don't know for sure.

06-20-2009, 09:27 AM
thank you for your thoughts, I will just try I suppose.
Also the the humid conditions may be a problem, as how long will locusts live in these conditions ?

06-22-2009, 11:14 AM
update: All 4 of my williamsi are doing well :D I have been feeding pinhead crickets, 1/8 inch crickets, melanogaster and hydei fruit flies, along with a Phelsuma honey mixture. Today, however, I'm going to try them on a Repashy Diet. I've realized that what I was feeding them was no different than what I was originally feeding my crested geckos (baby food base with various other things), and in both cases the Repashy Diet seems to be of more sustenance. In addition, I will mix in some honey for the williamsi. Insects are dusted with Rep-Cal.

I have caught my pairs mating over the last couple of days! I hope to have eggs soon :)

06-28-2009, 06:10 PM
useful info update:
a helpful and reputable dealer supplied me with the following information I thought may be of interest to others.
"The electric blue geckos would be fine at those temperatures. Ours drop to around 18 C at night with daytime highs of 27 – 32 C."
"The geckos will eat the smallest locust hoppers but would struggle with anything bigger"
Herpetologicalgirl please keep with the updates I for one find your posts informative and would like to know details of any developments-good luck with your breeding.

06-28-2009, 07:59 PM
Thanks for the kind words, Moggsy :) I guess I'll update again!

Since moving to the Repashy MRP diet, I have seen an increase in feeding activity from these guys (as opposed to the phelsuma mixture). I now have a breeding group of 6 Williamsi: 2.4. All 4 of my females are gravid, I now have 2 eggs and many more on the way :yahoo: All of the aforementioned insects in my last post are readily accepted, and all are sprinkled with Rep-Cal.

Here are my specs:
-The room is kept at a daytime temperature of 82 degrees F (I have other animals that enjoy the same ambient temp, so I thought I'd see how these guys do).
-Favorite basking sites are the thicker horizontal branches (slightly thicker than their bodies) closest to the light source (any closer and they would be part of the screen top, that's how close).
-Ambient temperature in the enclosure is 85.
-Basking sites range in temps from 90-96.
-The enclosure is fitted with an undertank heating pad that is on 24/7 to keep the enclosure slightly higher than room temp at all times. This also helps to keep the humidity up.
-Night time low's in the enclosure drop to about 80.
-Tank is misted twice a day.

1 female has developed an eye problem where it looks like the entire eye is covered in a crust of some sort. She was removed to a quarantine tank so that she did not have to compete for food. She has put on more weight since then, and I will try to treat the eye with a q-tip dipped in an anti-bacterial fish medication (this ensures that the medication's concentration should be safe enough for the reptile, since it's safe enough for fish). I'll keep you guys posted, and I'll keep my fingers crossed. :?

~HerpetologicalGirl :banana:

06-29-2009, 05:59 AM
HerpetologicalGirl great update, nice new information and well done.

It is interesting to note the large difference in night time temperatures, the geckos must adapt pretty well, or I wonder if the Europe captive bred strain has adapted, while some in areas of the U.S. has not needed to.

Maybe Stoph who obviously has great knowledge and originally wrote the fantastic care sheet that started this thread, may have some thoughts.

One thing I do know is anyone looking to start keeping Lygodactylus Williamsi and they find this forum it will help them tremendously, it has certainly answered a few questions for myself and hopefully it will produce more little pieces of information to help in the correct and comfortable keeping of these little creatures who are losing their natural habitat.

Hopefully your female will respond to treatment, you are obviously looking after her. I suppose you have looked on the web for a cause ? a couple of posts I read seem to think possible problems with a shed can cause this, they have administered treatment similar to yourself, plus the use of a saline solution in conjunction with antibacterial medication, this has been administered three times a day for up to three weeks. I am the opposite to a expert, so this is only what I read. Maybe if you emailed Stoph directly he/she may help. I am lucky to have a expert reptile vet 10 minutes away, although I wish never to see him.


07-31-2009, 07:11 PM
I was wondering whether or not it would be a good idea to keep two different species of geckos in the same terrarium. I was thinking Male Electric Blue and Female Gold Dust Day? Let me know if that isn't a good idea, or any alternatives you may have. Thanks.

07-31-2009, 08:54 PM
Combining species is often looked down on, however, I have heard stories of successful combinations. First off, make sure you know how to care for each species separately. After you decide to introduce them, monitor them closely, and make sure the vivarium has enough room for everyone to have their own space. I personally wouldn't chance injury by combining different species.

08-08-2009, 05:43 PM
hi i need help with deciding wether to get a trio of electric blue gecko 1 male and 2 females or a pair of madagascar giants i know their care needs but do not know were to buy them at a good pric please anyone i cant figure it out.

09-19-2009, 08:24 PM
hey i have a new set of eggs, i always get eggs, never hatch, advice?

09-19-2009, 09:46 PM
best if you have 1 male and mulitple females it will increase the chance of fertile eggs

09-22-2009, 12:25 AM
where can i buy two females, i already have a male

09-22-2009, 12:36 AM
i would like some ladyis for mine

12-04-2009, 07:17 PM

I went into a local pet store here in Ireland
and enquired about the pea**** day gecko,

he said it might be possible for him to get them
in and he also said I may like the electric blue gecko..

I came accross this thred about electric blue geckos
and I'm curious to the rough life expectancy of these lizards
when kept in captivity.

If you could help me out asap as I would like to
buy a nice vivarium which I have seen for a good price.

Thanks :)

12-09-2009, 03:07 PM
I see people feed fruit flies and pin heads? I have never dealt with any lygos before, or anything that small in general. LoL. I just picked up my first small geckos this week (baby pachydactylus carinatus) and love how cool these little guys are and thought I would also try some lygos and fell in love with the beautiful colors of the williamsi. Sorry for the long windedness but my question is, since I have never had to deal with fruit flies before are hatching lygos large enough to eat pin heads or are fruit flies a staple to their diet (http://zdrowo.info.pl/jedzenie.html)s? Also are the grapes and hunny important or just extra treats?

06-18-2010, 02:17 PM
I just got mine, why the male always bite female?

06-19-2010, 02:08 AM
how about night time?temp?

06-21-2010, 05:12 AM
For all the newcomers posting to this thread, you may have better luck getting answers by posting in the correct forum. :P

08-23-2010, 03:02 PM
Hello.. i am looking for somewhere/someone to buy a williams dwarf gecko from :) i cant seem to find any reptile stores that carry these bluetiful little guys! so if anyone can help me out i would greatly appreciate it! thankyou -Katie

10-05-2010, 09:04 PM
i just got 2 Lygodactylus williamsi (electric geckos) and i put them in ther aquarium and the male turned dark blue and now hes like a dark green. is sumthng wrong? thanks

12-10-2010, 07:46 PM
Hi there, i have had my electric blue gecko for a few months now, and ive noticed a mite or two and ive seen that everyone recommends giving them a bath but how on earth is that possible without them running away. My lizard is specifically named Blitz for this specific reason. If you play with them outside of their cage will they not jump off of you. Thanks- Gabi

12-10-2010, 09:31 PM
ive held mine they will stay on u but they can jump off mine has jumped off and ran but just put ur hand in front of it itll stop then cup hand over it and scoop it dnt lift by tail and put bak on arm so if u hold it sumwer like aroom and put towel under door crak. just dnt hold it anywer it can run into tite space like under stove fridge etc. and for mites thy might have a non toxic cleaner at pet stores summ ppl have used lice shampoo diluted wit water and mist wit spray bottle. chek youtube

12-10-2010, 09:34 PM
kclrak- try undergroundretiles.com

02-16-2011, 02:12 AM
do u think i could safely keep one of these males with a female of a dwarf gecko species? i was thinking of the yellow headed, as i want more than one lizard but would rather avoid eggs.

05-18-2012, 12:46 AM
Anyone attempting to offer freshly born B.dubias (for adults)?? I have a 2 month old Cham thats taking them with no issues. Just wanted to know since i have a colony and have access to them (would also like to provide varity).

Also how good , if at all is their sense of smell? Could you possibly mix a solution of water with traces of honey or baby fruit to lightly mist feeders (like dubias)to make them more attractive?

I'll be takeing the plung into L.williamsi eventually and would like all the info i can digest..I have exhausted my search toolbar, lol. I would really like to hear from first hand accounts.

Thanks in advance.

06-14-2012, 11:21 AM
Does any one have any ideas on how to cach one as i need to clean mine out and i cant catch him as is to fast and i dont want him getting out!:?

06-21-2012, 11:09 AM
Does any one have any ideas on how to cach one as i need to clean mine out and i cant catch him as is to fast and i dont want him getting out!:?

I accidently figured out a way to catch them, lol

I have a 16oz clear deli cup that i placed dusted crickets in. Well the sides on the cup got a light coating of powder. I notice this geckos would climb down to get crickets and was unable to climb back up because they would get powder on their pads and it would not allow them to get grip.

I assume you can do this on purpose to catch them. Just mist the enclosure you are putting them into so they can wash the powder off as they move about.

06-24-2012, 04:26 AM
ok thanks for that info i saw that crickets couldn't climb out with calcumium on them but didn't think it would affect the gecko.

Thanks for all the help mate!

06-28-2012, 01:08 PM
Anyone know the life expectancy of this gecko?

06-28-2012, 02:55 PM
great little gecko hard to find CB over in Ireland

10-02-2012, 05:32 PM
What about cycling the adults? I am assuming there is a prolonged season where the female stops producing eggs.

02-10-2013, 11:42 PM
this is one awesome gecko!!