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ChiTea
08-09-2013, 06:53 PM
More newbie questions...

I inherited my leopard gecko a few months ago. The previous owner had him for 3 1/2 years, and that's about how old he is.

I've been doing all the same things the previous owner was doing, but one by one, some of those things are of increasing concern to me. Here are the 2 most recent worries:

1. The tank is heated by a red heat lamp bulb. This is what my little leo has been living with for 3 1/2 years, but now I'm reading it may not be the best thing for him?

2. The previous owner only got a UTH about a year ago, but hardly ever used it. The other day, my place was chilly, so I decided to turn it on for a while (when I was going to be home for a long time so I could keep an eye on it). However, my leo wouldn't go anywhere near it when it was on, and it's under his favorite hide. I turned the heater off, and he went right back in there. I tried this a few more times on different days - same result. Is it something he just needs to get used to and really is best for him? Or if he's been without it for so long, he doesn't need it?

He seems pretty healthy to me. Chill during the day, but fairly active at night. I'm working on getting more stimulating decor for him. Always loves feeding time - never had a problem with his eating, except for mealworms (won't go near them - another recent experiment).

Any/all advice is appreciated!

thanks.

Mardy
08-09-2013, 07:36 PM
When using a UTH you need to test the floor temperature to see how hot it gets. It's common for UTH to get too hot for the geckos. They normally prefer somewhere between 88-95. It's easy for the UTH to get over 95 that's why you'll want to be able to test the floor temperature. Best way to test the floor temperature is either with a digital thermometer with a probe, or a temperature gun (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00837ZGRY/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00837ZGRY&linkCode=as2&tag=onlinegeckos-20).

Now it's one thing to know the temperature of the floor, it's another to control it. You can purchase a thermostat to control your UTH temperature. The thermostat will turn your UTH off when it gets too hot, then turn it back on when it cools enough. So once you have a thermostat hooked up to your UTH, you'll be able to leave it on 24/7 and know that your gecko will have proper belly heat. A good cheap but effective thermostat with great reviews is Hydrofarm (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NZZG3S/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B000NZZG3S&linkCode=as2&tag=onlinegeckos-20).

As for red light, it's usually only used for night time viewing, or when you need to supplement heating such as when your ambient gets below 70 on a consistent basis at night. If you must use light I prefer normal white light during the day, and moonglow bulb at night. Or some use ceramic heat emitters to supplement heating the ambient air when ambient gets too cold (under 70 on a consistent basis). You can actually use CHE anytime day or night as needed, which is nice.

ChiTea
08-09-2013, 07:47 PM
Hi Mardy,

Thanks for the advice (again! :)). I have a digital thermometer with a probe, and it's definitely not getting too hot. When I had the heater on, the temp only went up a couple degrees. I felt it (I'm sure humans feel heat differently than reptiles) but it only felt a little warm to me. I think I should test it again. Now that I think about it, it's possible the probe was on the edge of the UTH - I should place it more towards the middle to get a more accurate reading.

I'm definitely going to look into a CHE. I've read on this site that a lot of people like them. If I get one, what type of bulb would I use instead of the heat bulb?

thanks!

Mardy
08-09-2013, 07:59 PM
If it's warm to your touch, it's likely very warm as our skin temperature is already in the low 90's. You'll want to put that probe inside that hide you said your gecko likes to lay in. Test the floor temperature inside that hide and out, see what they are.

As for CHE, you'll want to start with the lower wattage ones so you don't end up raising the ambient too hot. Zoo med makes a 60 watt one, and exo terra makes a 40w and a 60w that GeckoManiac91 recently bought. It works well for him, so maybe he can give you some tips on how to use it properly with the setup.

ChiTea
08-09-2013, 08:01 PM
Thanks so much for your help! I'll let you know how it works out.

GeckoManiac91
08-09-2013, 08:09 PM
If it's warm to your touch, it's likely very warm as our skin temperature is already in the low 90's. You'll want to put that probe inside that hide you said your gecko likes to lay in. Test the floor temperature inside that hide and out, see what they are.

As for CHE, you'll want to start with the lower wattage ones so you don't end up raising the ambient too hot. Zoo med makes a 60 watt one, and exo terra makes a 40w and a 60w that GeckoManiac91 recently bought. It works well for him, so maybe he can give you some tips on how to use it properly with the setup.

I use Exo-Terra CHE's and I must say they are wonderful! You're probably best with a 60watt, they get my temperatures around the 83 or 84 mark. A 40watt I've found stays around 79-81. But again, it all depends where you live as well :) If its slightly hotter where you live then a 40watt is probably what you wanna go for. You can always by a thermostat for them as well if they get too hot!

One thing I found as well was when I was using Heat Light Bulbs they heated my whole tank a little bit to the point where my cool side was around 77. With the CHE's I have I get a very nice temperature gradient and the cool side is normally 10degrees lower than the hotside constantly.


Thanks Mardy! :biggrin:

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 01:39 AM
Ok, I just did another test on the UTH. I moved the probe and got a more accurate reading, but the hottest it got was 92.6 - the probe was in the center of the heater inside the hide. He still won't go near it, but I've read that 92.6 is in the normal range?

GeckoManiac91
08-11-2013, 01:58 AM
Ok, I just did another test on the UTH. I moved the probe and got a more accurate reading, but the hottest it got was 92.6 - the probe was in the center of the heater inside the hide. He still won't go near it, but I've read that 92.6 is in the normal range?

What might your cool side temperatures be? Perhaps a picture of your enclosure? :)
Does he stay clear of the hot side 24/7 or just during the day?

92.6 is a perfect surface temperature to me!

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 02:24 AM
The cool side is 78. His favorite hide is under the heat lamp, and he's in there most of the day. Here's a quick pic (my real camera is already packed - I'm moving next week). The heat lamp is mounted on the right side, the tank is 30L x 12W x 18H. The middle hide is the moist one, and the black one is on the cool side. That bark thing is a hollow tube - he loves walking through it.

24676

GeckoManiac91
08-11-2013, 02:37 AM
The cool side is 78. His favorite hide is under the heat lamp, and he's in there most of the day. Here's a quick pic (my real camera is already packed - I'm moving next week). The heat lamp is mounted on the right side, the tank is 30L x 12W x 18H. The middle hide is the moist one, and the black one is on the cool side. That bark thing is a hollow tube - he loves walking through it.

24676

Just to double check, your heat mat and heat lamp are in the same side? Judging from "his favourite hide is under the heat lamp, and he's in there most of the day" I get the impression you have the heat mat on one side of the enclosure and the heat lamp on the other because of how you said earlier that he's avoiding his heat mat? All heating devices should be on the same side to create a temperature gradient from hot to cool.

If your cool side is 78 I really don't see a need to have the heat lamp on at night (assuming it is) or even during the day for that matter. You really want a cool side air temperature between 70-75 and a warm side air temp between 80 and 85. :)

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 02:57 AM
Yes. The lamp and the UTH are on the same side. I know it's not the best pic. The warm side averages 82. I don't use the UTH because he doesn't seem to like it. His previous owner never used it. I don't remember what the deal was with it - why he never used it. I only recently became concerned about it because of things I was reading about UTH's and digestion.

GeckoManiac91
08-11-2013, 03:24 AM
Yes. The lamp and the UTH are on the same side. I know it's not the best pic. The warm side averages 82. I don't use the UTH because he doesn't seem to like it. His previous owner never used it. I don't remember what the deal was with it - why he never used it. I only recently became concerned about it because of things I was reading about UTH's and digestion.

Oops, sorry for the confusion :S

I do think this is something to be concerned about because of the whole digestion aspect. I really don't know what else it could be :( Sorry! Just want to add though that you don't really have a good temperature gradient. 82 on the warm side and 78 on the cool side isn't that much of a change in temperature. Your cool end should be about 10degrees lower than the warm end.

Only thing that make sense and I can think of is that its too hot however the temperature of 92 isn't bad at all.

Mardy will probably have better advice and something more to add when he checks back in :)

Elizabeth Freer
08-11-2013, 04:11 AM
Yes. The lamp and the UTH are on the same side. I know it's not the best pic. The warm side averages 82. I don't use the UTH because he doesn't seem to like it. His previous owner never used it. I don't remember what the deal was with it - why he never used it. I only recently became concerned about it because of things I was reading about UTH's and digestion.

Best to put both the UTH and the overhead dome on separate thermostats. However, you could get away with a single thermostat if you place the overhead light/CHE on a rheostat and a timer.

With what type thermometers are you measuring those temperatures?

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

Within a 30 inch tank you should be able to achieve the temps described above. Both an UTH and a 10 inch diameter dome are strongly suggested to provide leos with warm "zones" not just warm "spots".

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 01:13 PM
Elizabeth,

I know you recommend leaving the UTH on 24/7 (I've read that all over this site) but he simply will not go near the end of tank when it's on, even when the overhead lamp is off. That's why I started this thread - I just want to make sure my little guy is ok.

Mardy
08-11-2013, 04:12 PM
What does the floor temperature test out to be without the UTH on?

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 05:42 PM
Right now, it's 84. That's pretty average. Even though he wasn't 'mine' until recently, he's lived in my apartment for the last 2 1/2 years, and I checked his warm temps every day to make sure it wasn't getting too hot (Los Angeles can get very warm in the summer). Anyways, it's always been within a couple degrees of 84, and he likes it. When his tank gets close to 90, he stands up and puts his tummy on the glass, like he doesn't like the heat.

Mardy
08-11-2013, 06:00 PM
That's strange, 84 belly heat on the floor isn't high enough for them to digest food properly. You should shoot for 88 at the very least, 90 preferable, for the gecko's own good.

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 06:14 PM
I can heat it up, but he won't go near it. At all. He just sort of stares at the area when it gets hot. He's funny. Here's his poop: normal? Again- sorry for the quality. This is on the side of his moist hide, that looks like a rock. 24690

cricket4u
08-11-2013, 06:37 PM
I can heat it up, but he won't go near it. At all. He just sort of stares at the area when it gets hot. He's funny. Here's his poop: normal? Again- sorry for the quality. This is on the side of his moist hide, that looks like a rock. 24690
Hi,


1)One thing that I did not hear you mention was a thermostat. This is important in order to stabilize the temperature he is comfortable in.

2) Do you have an extra thermometer to compare the one you're using for accuracy? Always keep at least 2.

3) My female leo likes the ground temp at 86f and will not tolerate any higher. Never has had any problems with digestion. They will only have problems digesting if the air temp is too cold and the UTH is low. I've tried all ways in the past and what I came up with is, they do best with mild belly heat and warm air temp.


Perhaps I should elaborate a bit. You mentioned that even with the red bulb off, he will not stay in the warm hide while the UTH is on. Chances are the UTH temp of 92f is too warm for his comfort or the thermometer is not reading accurately.

My geckos will never use the hides that are over 90-91f ground temp at highest. So the temp itself may be a possibility, however it's important to compare it with a second thermometer for accuracy and use a thermostat to set the temp.

cricket4u
08-11-2013, 08:48 PM
Just sharing an observation I may have not mentioned in the past. Their temperature preferences can change as they get older. This is one of the reasons I stress allowing more space often. Space will allow you to provide more than one warm side temp option. I've noticed that a few leos have moved to cooler hides after the age of around 6. For example: While they were young they liked it warmer and then after a certain age they move to the 88F hide as a favorite.

ChiTea
08-11-2013, 10:43 PM
Hmm... Well, he's not quite 4 yet. I do not have a thermostat - I'll look into that. Thanks! And getting another thermometer just to be sure.

ChiTea
08-16-2013, 02:25 PM
Hi All,

Can you guys recommend a specific thermostat that you like? I just moved into my new place yesterday, and it gets pretty hot (there's only one air conditioning unit and it's in my living room) so I need a way to control the temperature in the tank, which is in my sewing room. There's a ceiling fan, which helped a little, but not a lot.

Thanks!

aterbrock2203
08-18-2013, 10:58 PM
Amazon.com : Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden (http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPRTC-Digital-Thermostat-Heat/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376881075&sr=8-1&keywords=hydrofarm)

This is the thermostat that I use. I bought it based on its popularity on multiple reptile forums. It's worked great so far.

ChiTea
08-19-2013, 07:34 PM
Oooh - fancy! And good reviews, too! What temp do you normally set your UTH for? As I stated in a previous post, mine is around 90 (which I thought was normal) but my little guy doesn't like it. :? I know it's for his own good, so I'd like to try and ease him into it somehow...

Mardy
08-19-2013, 07:43 PM
Generally 90-95 is the standard, and your temperature using a non-proportional thermostat will get a +/- 5 degree fluctuation, which is normal. But each individual geckos are different, and if your gecko is conditioned to live at a lower temperature, then set yours lower. Like maybe 85-89 or something of that sort.

ChiTea
08-19-2013, 07:52 PM
hi Mardy,

Good call. I'm ordering that thermostat today, so I guess I'll do some experimenting when it comes in.

thanks again, all!

Elizabeth Freer
08-20-2013, 12:17 AM
Hi All,

Can you guys recommend a specific thermostat that you like? I just moved into my new place yesterday, and it gets pretty hot (there's only one air conditioning unit and it's in my living room) so I need a way to control the temperature in the tank, which is in my sewing room. There's a ceiling fan, which helped a little, but not a lot.

Thanks!


ChiTea ~

If the room temperature of your sewing room is warmer than the thermostat's setting, air conditioning is a must.

I've been using that Hydrofarm MTPRTC for my leo for a few months now. Switched over from a different brand. Have mine set for 91 F. It varies less than 2 degrees lower than the 91 F setting according to the probes. I have the probe of my digital thermometer taped directly above the thermostat's probe in order to verify the thermostat's reading.

ChiTea
08-20-2013, 01:39 AM
Hi Elizabeth,

Thanks for the tip. I guess I'll find out in a few days when my thermostat arrives!

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 02:37 AM
Ok. The thermostat came today, but it doesn't seem to solve my problem. Basically, it will turn up the heat when the temperature gets low, but it will not do the reverse. Since my leo won't go near the UTH at all (even when the temperature is normal) I was planning to set the thermostat to a low temp, and raise it a degree or so each day until he got used to it. The way this thermostat works, it seems to be useless for my purpose. Please help!

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 02:50 AM
Ok. The thermostat came today, but it doesn't seem to solve my problem. Basically, it will turn up the heat when the temperature gets low, but it will not do the reverse. Since my leo won't go near the UTH at all (even when the temperature is normal) I was planning to set the thermostat to a low temp, and raise it a degree or so each day until he got used to it. The way this thermostat works, it seems to be useless for my purpose. Please help!

Good to hear that the thermostat came :) Do you have the probe for the thermostat over top the heat mat? Are you using a thermometer with a probe to double check the readings? A thermostat will turn off once it reaches the desired temperature, drop a couple degrees, then turn back on.

Setting it for 88 should be fine. As long as your temps don't drop below 86 or so on a regular basis your Leo should have a good time digesting its food.

I don't see any other reason on why he's avoiding the heat mat :?

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 11:13 AM
Good to hear that the thermostat came :) Do you have the probe for the thermostat over top the heat mat? Are you using a thermometer with a probe to double check the readings? A thermostat will turn off once it reaches the desired temperature, drop a couple degrees, then turn back on.

Setting it for 88 should be fine. As long as your temps don't drop below 86 or so on a regular basis your Leo should have a good time digesting its food.

I don't see any other reason on why he's avoiding the heat mat :?

Yup, I have the probe just above the heat mat. It is right beside the probe from my digital thermometer (they're within a few tenths of a degree of each other)

Even at 88, he won't go near it. He's not used to it, which is why I think he's avoiding the area. It's also why I thought I could start at a low temp, and gradually raise it for him. Is there a different device that will let me do that?

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 11:56 AM
ChiTea ~

If the room temperature of your sewing room is warmer than the thermostat's setting, air conditioning is a must.

I've been using that Hydrofarm MTPRTC for my leo for a few months now. Have mine set for 91 F. It varies about 2 degrees lower than the 91 F setting according to the probes.


Ok. The thermostat came today, but it doesn't seem to solve my problem. Basically, it will turn up the heat when the temperature gets low, but it will not do the reverse. Since my leo won't go near the UTH at all (even when the temperature is normal) I was planning to set the thermostat to a low temp, and raise it a degree or so each day until he got used to it. The way this thermostat works, it seems to be useless for my purpose. Please help!

A thermostat's job is to keep the temperatures at more even set temperatures. Sometimes there is a little variance either + or -. If say your Hydrofarm is set for 91 F, the thermostat could drop to 88 F before it turns on. Then it will turn off at the 91 F setting, but the temperature MIGHT rise a bit higher as read by the separate digital thermometer's probe. However, a thermostat will NOT do the job of a room air conditioner and adjust temperatures lower than the room temperatures.

I tape my digital's probe right above my Hydrofarm's probe.

I hope that you can relocate the tank to the living room when it gets too warm in your sewing room like in the summer or whenever.


Yup, I have the probe just above the heat mat. It is right beside the probe from my digital thermometer (they're within a few tenths of a degree of each other)

Even at 88, he won't go near it. He's not used to it, which is why I think he's avoiding the area. It's also why I thought I could start at a low temp, and gradually raise it for him. Is there a different device that will let me do that?

Super to hear that you've verified your new Hydrofarm thermostat's accuracy with the probe from a digital thermometer and that the temperatures basically match :D.

Your leo may be uncomfortable considering the other temperatures?

How are you matching these recommended readings?

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 12:14 PM
Your leo may be uncomfortable considering the other temperatures?

How are you matching these recommended readings?

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

I was thinking the same thing Elizabeth but then how come the Gecko only avoids the warm side when the heat mats on? If it had something to do with the air temps then wouldn't it avoid the hot side regardless? :?

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 12:14 PM
The cool side is 78. His favorite hide is under the heat lamp, and he's in there most of the day. Here's a quick pic (my real camera is already packed - I'm moving next week). The heat lamp is mounted on the right side, the tank is 30L x 12W x 18H. The middle hide is the moist one, and the black one is on the cool side. That bark thing is a hollow tube - he loves walking through it.

24676

ChiTea ~

Please verify the size of his tank. You say that the tank pictured measures 30 inches long x 12 inches wide x 18 inches high. Do you mean 20 inches long? So that would be a standard 20 gallon tank?

Sorry if I missed this. What are the temperatures inside his warm dry hide with the UTH turned off?

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 12:23 PM
ChiTea ~

Please verify the size of his tank. You say that the tank pictured measures 30 inches long x 12 inches wide x 18 inches high. Do you mean 20 inches long? So that would be a standard 20 gallon tank?

Sorry if I missed this. What are the temperatures inside his warm dry hide with the UTH turned off?

She stated before the surface temperature without the heat mat on was 84 and with it on was 92 :)

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 12:25 PM
She stated before the surface temperature without the heat mat on was 84 and with it on was 92 :)

Was that before or after her move?

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 12:29 PM
Was that before or after her move?

I am not sure, can't seem to find anything about that. Did she move or did the gecko move tanks?

I found the temperatures in posts #7 and #16 respectively.

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 12:55 PM
Hi All,

Can you guys recommend a specific thermostat that you like? I just moved into my new place yesterday, and it gets pretty hot (there's only one air conditioning unit and it's in my living room) so I need a way to control the temperature in the tank, which is in my sewing room. There's a ceiling fan, which helped a little, but not a lot.

Thanks!

Hey Dylan ~

This quote is post #22.

ChiTea (and her leo) moved. Happy that she did not leave the leo behind :biggrin:.

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 01:01 PM
Hey Dylan ~

ChiTea (and her leo) moved. Happy that she did not leave the leo behind :biggrin:.

Ooh, don't see how I missed that. My bad :coverlaugh:

Well then the temperatures she said were before she moved. Which you already probably pieced together :)

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 01:19 PM
Wow - so many new comments to address since the time I left that comment this morning and just now when I got to work, ha ha.

Tank:
- the tank is indeed 30" long - it's a 29 gallon tank. Same as a 20 gallon long, except that it's 18" high instead of 12" high. Someone gave it to the previous owner about 2 years ago. I don't remember what the size of the original tank was.
- the tank is definitely warmer than the air in the room.

Temps:

- the UTH is under his favorite hide, but you're right - he will stay in there all day, until I turn the heater on (I keep trying to get him to get used to it) and then he avoids it 100% and sits in the moist hide instead.

- the temps I stated above were actually after my move. I just re-read my post above about it getting really hot, and I think that was a fluke. The day I moved, it was almost 100 degrees out, plus there were people coming in and out all day with deliveries, etc. I think all the extra people, combined with the outside temps made it hotter in the room just for that day. It hasn't been nearly that hot since.

- the temps were about the same before my move, as well (if not a degree or two cooler). Although the heat lamp was on 24/7, and now I usually just keep it on at night for him. Same situation with the UTH, though - he wouldn't go near it. I can't remember when the previous owner got the UTH, but he tried it once and Reggie (my leo) didn't like it, so it stayed off completely. It's only been since I've inherited Reggie full time that I've been reading about geckos (constantly) and have been noticing all the things that his previous owner wasn't doing properly (the UTH being only one of them).

- is there some sort of 'air conditioning' device I could get for inside the tank? It just seems like a better way overall to control the temps 24/7, right? I absolutely love my little Reggie and just want to right all the 'wrongs' that were previously being done, without stressing him too much with so many changes all at once.

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 02:26 PM
- the temps were about the same before my move, as well (if not a degree or two cooler). Although the heat lamp was on 24/7, and now I usually just keep it on at night for him. Same situation with the UTH, though - he wouldn't go near it. I can't remember when the previous owner got the UTH, but he tried it once and Reggie (my leo) didn't like it, so it stayed off completely. It's only been since I've inherited Reggie full time that I've been reading about geckos (constantly) and have been noticing all the things that his previous owner wasn't doing properly (the UTH being only one of them).

- is there some sort of 'air conditioning' device I could get for inside the tank? It just seems like a better way overall to control the temps 24/7, right? I absolutely love my little Reggie and just want to right all the 'wrongs' that were previously being done, without stressing him too much with so many changes all at once.

How about sharing a picture of Reggie? Perhaps he's the sort of leo who only likes overhead heat?

Before you ditch the UTH, have you tried turning off the overheads ONLY at night and leaving the UTH on 24/7?

Your thermostat will be needed whether you ultimately use UTH or just overhead heating.

Don't know about in-the-tank fans. For exceptionally hot days, there is the fan/ice block method: something like a room fan directed on an ice block right in front of the tank????? Not sure.

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 02:31 PM
How about sharing a picture of Reggie? Perhaps he's the sort of leo who only likes overhead heat?

Before you ditch the UTH, have you tried turning off the overheads ONLY at night and leaving the UTH on 24/7?

Your thermostat will be needed whether you ultimately use UTH or just overhead heating.

Don't know about in-the-tank fans. For exceptionally hot days, there is the fan/ice block method: something like a room fan directed on an ice block right in front of the tank????? Not sure.

Yes, you can take a bowl of ice put it in the direction of the tank and blow a fan in front of the bowl, I find just aiming a fan at the tank will do the trick as well :) It doesn't get the temperature down as much with the bowl of ice but it works.

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 02:32 PM
How about sharing a picture of Reggie? Perhaps he's the sort of leo who only likes overhead heat?

Before you ditch the UTH, have you tried turning off the overheads ONLY at night and leaving the UTH on 24/7?

Your thermostat will be needed whether you ultimately use UTH or just overhead heating.

Don't know about in-the-tank fans. For exceptionally hot days, there is the fan/ice block method: something like a room fan directed on an ice block right in front of the tank????? Not sure.


Yes, you can take a bowl of ice put it in the direction of the tank and blow a fan in front of the bowl, I find just aiming a fan at the tank will do the trick as well :) It doesn't get the temperature down as much with the bowl of ice but it works.

Swamp cooling method?

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 02:37 PM
Swamp cooling method?

Pardon? Sorry, not sure what you mean Elizabeth :?

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 02:49 PM
Pardon? Sorry, not sure what you mean Elizabeth :?

Not sure either, GM91. No worries....

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 03:07 PM
Elizabeth & Maniac,

Thanks so much for all your great tips! I'll try just leaving the UTH on tonight without the overhead heat lamp and see how that goes. I'm also definitely going to try the fan and ice trick.

Here's a couple pictures of my sweet little Reggie. I took these a few weeks ago (before the move) and the heat lamp was on, hence all the red. I'm going to try and get some better ones this week. He just shed over the weekend and now he's exceptionally bright and his colors really stand out :) And I just unpacked my real camera, ha ha.

2503925040

cricket4u
08-27-2013, 04:07 PM
What happens when the ice melts(normally within half an hour or so)? I think it would be best to move him to the room with the air conditioner is. It is important to provide a cool side at all times. If the air temps are already too high, chances are he will not want to lay on a hot surface.

Muffins94
08-27-2013, 04:25 PM
Pardon? Sorry, not sure what you mean Elizabeth :?

She was referring to the ice/ fan idea as the swamp cooling method. That's what I have heard it be referred to by crested owners.



What happens when the ice melts(normally within half an hour or so)? I think it would be best to move him to the room with the air conditioner is. It is important to provide a cool side at all times. If the air temps are already too high, chances are he will not want to lay on a hot surface.

I have to agree with cricket on this. On hot days you will have to constantly monitor and change ice bowls/packs, while AC will be much simpler.

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 04:33 PM
I'll probably get a portable air conditioner for the room if it continues to be a problem. The room where the wall air conditioner is, is less than adequate for a gecko - I'd actually have even less control over the temps because of how the room is and where the AC unit is (I no longer have central air... boo). I was actually looking at some portable units the other day, and I thought that they'd probably go on sale soon, since it's the end of the season.

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 06:02 PM
I'll probably get a portable air conditioner for the room if it continues to be a problem. The room where the wall air conditioner is, is less than adequate for a gecko - I'd actually have even less control over the temps because of how the room is and where the AC unit is (I no longer have central air... boo). I was actually looking at some portable units the other day, and I thought that they'd probably go on sale soon, since it's the end of the season.


Portable A/C sounds like the answer. Best wishes on finding a good sale!

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 06:48 PM
What do you guys think about a tower fan? I've got one at work, and it blows cold air. There are even some that have built in thermostats and timers. Just a thought. Air conditioning and fan comparison is not really in my realm of knowledge... Any thoughts would be helpful :) I'm hoping you guys like this idea, because I could just pick one up on my way home from work. Problem solved. Well, one problem, at least.

Elizabeth Freer
08-27-2013, 07:05 PM
Just brainstorming (as usual): Any chance you might borrow the tower fan from work to try it out?

Sorry, don't know either :-(

Muffins94
08-27-2013, 07:11 PM
I think it could work if its like the one I have. Man that thing blows out some serious cold air. Few minutes with that on makes the room so cool!

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 07:17 PM
Muffins - nice! What kind do you have?

ps - please tell me your gecko is named Muffins. So cute.

cricket4u
08-27-2013, 09:26 PM
An air conditioner cools the air,whereas a fan only blows the warm air around. A fan will not do your leo any good. An air conditioner with a built in thermostat is what you really need. This will allow you to set it to a desired room temperature.

ChiTea
08-27-2013, 09:54 PM
Hi Cricket,

Tower fans are different from box fans. They do produce cold air, but in a different way from an AC unit. That's what I've been reading today. They also have thermostats. I'm about to go to the store, so I'll share any info I find out. I have my fingers crossed that I can find a solution.

cricket4u
08-27-2013, 10:06 PM
Hi Cricket,

Tower fans are different from box fans. They do produce cold air, but in a different way from an AC unit. That's what I've been reading today. They also have thermostats. I'm about to go to the store, so I'll share any info I find out. I have my fingers crossed that I can find a solution.

Oh, I thought you meant one of the tall standing fans.

GeckoManiac91
08-27-2013, 11:54 PM
What happens when the ice melts(normally within half an hour or so)? I think it would be best to move him to the room with the air conditioner is. It is important to provide a cool side at all times. If the air temps are already too high, chances are he will not want to lay on a hot surface.

Obviously the ice cooling method isn't a permanent solution. I was just saying it helps me out when my days get too hot here which isn't very often at all :)

ChiTea
08-28-2013, 12:15 AM
Well, this is nuts. I got the right tower, thermostat and all, it's exactly what I need, but it doesn't work! I just set it all up, and it must have been a return or something. So I'll have to take it back tomorrow and get another one... I'm beyond frustrated by this.

Elizabeth - I would love to borrow the one from my office, but the person who had my job before me was fired for theft (among other illegal activities) so I don't even want to broach the subject of borrowing something, ha ha.

Frustration aside, I do think this thermostat tower fan will help a lot. Now I just need to get little Reggie acclimated to the UTH.

Elizabeth Freer
08-28-2013, 12:50 AM
Well, this is nuts. I got the right tower, thermostat and all, it's exactly what I need, but it doesn't work! I just set it all up, and it must have been a return or something. So I'll have to take it back tomorrow and get another one... I'm beyond frustrated by this.

How disappointing, ChiTea!

Elizabeth - I would love to borrow the one from my office, but the person who had my job before me was fired for theft (among other illegal activities) so I don't even want to broach the subject of borrowing something, ha ha.

OMG! I see. I meant with permission and all that, of course.

Frustration aside, I do think this thermostat tower fan will help a lot. Now I just need to get little Reggie acclimated to the UTH.

Please keep GU posted with your progress and Reggie's.

GeckoManiac91
08-28-2013, 02:44 AM
Well, this is nuts. I got the right tower, thermostat and all, it's exactly what I need, but it doesn't work! I just set it all up, and it must have been a return or something. So I'll have to take it back tomorrow and get another one... I'm beyond frustrated by this.

Elizabeth - I would love to borrow the one from my office, but the person who had my job before me was fired for theft (among other illegal activities) so I don't even want to broach the subject of borrowing something, ha ha.

Frustration aside, I do think this thermostat tower fan will help a lot. Now I just need to get little Reggie acclimated to the UTH.

It might be stressful and frustrating now but in the future your gecko will appreciate its long, happy life you are able to provide it with :)

ChiTea
08-28-2013, 11:12 AM
Agreed. I love coming home to his sweet little gecko face. :)

ChiTea
08-29-2013, 10:56 PM
Good news! I haven't had a chance to exchange the faulty room cooler yet, and it was supposed to hit 100 degrees today (it did). So before I left for work this morning, I arranged my doors so that the air conditioning would blow through my living room, across the hall, and into Reggie's room - and it worked! I came home and his temps were just perfect, even though it was 95 outside.

Even better news: I turned on the UTH to just 2 degrees above the temp on the warm side, and he's still in the hide that's above the heater! It's only been about half an hour, and I did only raise the temp slightly, but I'm hoping this will get him used to a warm tummy. :)

cricket4u
08-30-2013, 10:56 PM
Good news! I haven't had a chance to exchange the faulty room cooler yet, and it was supposed to hit 100 degrees today (it did). So before I left for work this morning, I arranged my doors so that the air conditioning would blow through my living room, across the hall, and into Reggie's room - and it worked! I came home and his temps were just perfect, even though it was 95 outside.

Even better news: I turned on the UTH to just 2 degrees above the temp on the warm side, and he's still in the hide that's above the heater! It's only been about half an hour, and I did only raise the temp slightly, but I'm hoping this will get him used to a warm tummy. :)

Just curious, what are the final temps your gecko appears to be comfortable with? You mentioned 2 degrees higher, 86 belly heat? How about the air temperature?

ChiTea
09-03-2013, 08:44 PM
Hi Cricket,

I missed this post earlier for some reason. Anyways, he's most comfortable between 84 and 87. I know that's on the low side of what's recommended, but he's the most 'normal' with those temps. Even in the low 90's, he sometimes won't eat. The other day, the air temp was 86, so I set the UTH for 88, and he was good with it for a while. Since then, it seems to be hit or miss with him. Yesterday, I don't think he went near the UTH at all, but he did sporadically last week. He's a funny one!

Since I've been leaving the air conditioning on during the day, he's definitely been more active with a heartier appetite. I went to take some pics of him the other day, but he wouldn't do more than poke his head out of the hides.

cricket4u
09-04-2013, 01:18 PM
Since then, it seems to be hit or miss with him.

I'm not surprised due to the lack of temperature control. There will be tremendous air temperature fluctuation unless the air conditioner is set to turn on and off once it reaches a desired room temp.

You mentioned a few temperatures, however you did not specify whether ground temp or air? I'm assuming between 84 and 87 is belly heat? The temperatures recommended are only estimates based on personal experiences. You will always want to offer various options in order to find what your leo is comfortable with. This is one of the reasons I always recommend longer enclosures. It will allow more space, more hides and overall options.

I will mention that I've never had a leo who is comfortable in air temperatures higher than 85, so you may want to keep that in mind.

Since I've been leaving the air conditioning on during the day, he's definitely been more active with a heartier appetite.

Very good! You're on the right path.:)

ChiTea
09-09-2013, 03:59 PM
Hey everyone,

I'm getting ready to purchase the CHE, but I have more questions (surprise, surprise). Should it be on 24/7, or would it be best to hook it up to another thermostat, or even a timer? Since this will be replacing my heat lamp, I need some other sort of light source, right? Otherwise, it gets very dark in the tank after the sun goes down, before I get home from work to turn the room lights on.

What do you guys think? Here's the CHE I'm looking at: Amazon.com: Exo Terra Ceramic Heater, 40-Watt/110-Volt: Pet Supplies (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DIAWU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

thanks, as always!
ChiTea

GeckoManiac91
09-09-2013, 04:08 PM
Hey everyone,

I'm getting ready to purchase the CHE, but I have more questions (surprise, surprise). Should it be on 24/7, or would it be best to hook it up to another thermostat, or even a timer? Since this will be replacing my heat lamp, I need some other sort of light source, right? Otherwise, it gets very dark in the tank after the sun goes down, before I get home from work to turn the room lights on.

What do you guys think? Here's the CHE I'm looking at: Amazon.com: Exo Terra Ceramic Heater, 40-Watt/110-Volt: Pet Supplies (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DIAWU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER)

thanks, as always!
ChiTea

It should be connected to a thermostat regardless of whether or not you choose to keep it on 24/7. Temperature drops are not essential so whether or not you choose to keep the over head heating in 24/7 or not is up to you. Another benefit to the CHE; No light :) I would opt for a 60watt bulb or even higher because you will be able to have more temperature control with the thermostat.

If you chose to turn off over head heating at night then yes a timer is a good idea. Simply plug your CHE into the thermostat and then plug the thermostat into the timer.

With lighting all you need is 10-14hours of light during the day. As long as there's ambient light coming in through a window you'll be fine :)

ChiTea
09-09-2013, 04:15 PM
I did want to keep the CHE on at night, because it tends to get chilly.

I don't need to have any light on at night at all? It's verrrrry dark without a light, and he's always had the red heat lamp on at night. Won't he get scared suddenly not being able to see at night?

GeckoManiac91
09-09-2013, 04:22 PM
I did want to keep the CHE on at night, because it tends to get chilly.

I don't need to have any light on at night at all? It's verrrrry dark without a light, and he's always had the red heat lamp on at night. Won't he get scared suddenly not being able to see at night?

Then by all means leave it on at night :)

No, not at all, he won't get scared :D

mecoat
09-09-2013, 04:32 PM
I'd be tempted to go for the lower temperature. I had a 100W CHE, and it totally messed up my temps. Even with a thermostat the temps rocketed so high so quickly it was unreal. I watched it rise one time on a thermometer - a 10-20 F difference in less than 30 seconds, let's just say the thermostat can't keep up with that kind of difference.

I've now got a 25W in and the temps are much more stable. Even if it's on for longer than a higher Wattage, I think the temps'll be more stable.

ChiTea
09-09-2013, 04:42 PM
I live in Los Angeles, so it's warm all the time. Where did you get your 25W? I had trouble finding a 40W bulb online, let alone in a store... Thanks for the tip!

GeckoManiac91
09-09-2013, 04:46 PM
I'd be tempted to go for the lower temperature. I had a 100W CHE, and it totally messed up my temps. Even with a thermostat the temps rocketed so high so quickly it was unreal. I watched it rise one time on a thermometer - a 10-20 F difference in less than 30 seconds, let's just say the thermostat can't keep up with that kind of difference.

I've now got a 25W in and the temps are much more stable. Even if it's on for longer than a higher Wattage, I think the temps'll be more stable.

I'm curious as to what type of thermometer you were using?

ChiTea
09-09-2013, 04:57 PM
I live in Los Angeles, so it's warm all the time. Where did you get your 25W? I had trouble finding a 40W bulb online, let alone in a store... Thanks for the tip!

mecoat
09-10-2013, 04:15 AM
Original one came from Amazon, but more recent one (spare) came from ebay. I think I've got the second one off hand (from Hong Kong), but see what suits you.

Reptile Vivarium Ceramic Heat Emitters 25W White Screw Type ES27 1? | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reptile-Vivarium-Ceramic-Heat-Emitters-25W-White-Screw-Type-ES27-1-/120952710190?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Reptiles_Spiders_I nsects&hash=item1c2957e42e#ht_2263wt_1030)
AC 220-240V 25W Ceramic Emitter Heater Pet Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb Black | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220-240V-25W-Ceramic-Emitter-Heater-Pet-Reptile-Heat-Lamp-Bulb-Black-/230999994234?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item35c8ac2f7a#ht_1954wt_959)
220V-240V Ceramic Emitter Heated Pet Appliances Reptile Heat Breeding Light T5 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-240V-Ceramic-Emitter-Heated-Pet-Appliances-Reptile-Heat-Breeding-Light-T5-/330988762223?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&var=&hash=item4d1077b46f#ht_2136wt_975)

Good Luck.

P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.

GeckoManiac91
09-10-2013, 09:29 AM
P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.

I have never heard nor run into this problem with sky rocketing temperatures. I have always been told to go for the higher wattage and I myself did that. I went for a 60watt when the 40watt would have worked fine. Hooked up the light to my thermostat, taped the probe 4inches above the substrate on the warm side (right beside the thermometer) and then everything worked and still works perfect!

I'm curious as to what your temperatures would read with a digital thermometer? I don't much trust the accuracy of other thermometers. I have tested analog thermometers and have got readings waaaay off. I have used the Exo-Terra stick on thermometer with the coloured bars that light up, such as the one you have, and its hard to even tell what temperature it's reading. So many temperatures are lit up, how do you even know?

mecoat
09-10-2013, 12:19 PM
I have never heard nor run into this problem with sky rocketing temperatures. I have always been told to go for the higher wattage and I myself did that. I went for a 60watt when the 40watt would have worked fine. Hooked up the light to my thermostat, taped the probe 4inches above the substrate on the warm side (right beside the thermometer) and then everything worked and still works perfect!

I'm curious as to what your temperatures would read with a digital thermometer? I don't much trust the accuracy of other thermometers. I have tested analog thermometers and have got readings waaaay off. I have used the Exo-Terra stick on thermometer with the coloured bars that light up, such as the one you have, and its hard to even tell what temperature it's reading. So many temperatures are lit up, how do you even know?

I have a digital too, and the temps read the same, but I find for quick, rough measurements the strip is better (the digital takes longer to settle). Basically the smart materials light up if they get to the temperature that they are designed for, each one seperately, then gradually (a few secs-1min) fade as the temp changes. Only one or two should be lit at a time, unless you've just changed something drastic (eg taken from your slightly chilly room, and put direct onto the heat mat). I had the strip in the viv and it was stable, until the 100W turned on, then it lit up like a Christmas tree - one after the other - so quickly that about 1/2 the strip was lit up before the thermostat clicked off (about 30 secs after turning on). Then they gradually turned off leaving the temp showing at over 100 (the thermsotat was set to 85/6ish). Daff was sooooo not happy. He's much happier now that the 25W provides much more stable temps, still on the thermostat.

ChiTea
09-10-2013, 05:19 PM
Just placed an order for a CHE. I decided to go with the 40W because 25W seemed too low to me... I figured that I can try it for a day, and if it's not ideal, I'll exchange it for a different wattage.

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

Elizabeth Freer
09-12-2013, 12:17 AM
Original one came from Amazon, but more recent one (spare) came from ebay. I think I've got the second one off hand (from Hong Kong), but see what suits you.

Reptile Vivarium Ceramic Heat Emitters 25W White Screw Type ES27 1? | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reptile-Vivarium-Ceramic-Heat-Emitters-25W-White-Screw-Type-ES27-1-/120952710190?pt=UK_Pet_Supplies_Reptiles_Spiders_I nsects&hash=item1c2957e42e#ht_2263wt_1030)
AC 220-240V 25W Ceramic Emitter Heater Pet Reptile Heat Lamp Bulb Black | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AC-220-240V-25W-Ceramic-Emitter-Heater-Pet-Reptile-Heat-Lamp-Bulb-Black-/230999994234?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item35c8ac2f7a#ht_1954wt_959)
220V-240V Ceramic Emitter Heated Pet Appliances Reptile Heat Breeding Light T5 | eBay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220V-240V-Ceramic-Emitter-Heated-Pet-Appliances-Reptile-Heat-Breeding-Light-T5-/330988762223?pt=UK_Home_Garden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&var=&hash=item4d1077b46f#ht_2136wt_975)

Good Luck.

P.S. the thermometer I was using was a smart material one (one with coloured bars that light up at different temps) about 6 bars were all lit up at the same time when the bulb was on up to well over 100F. Let's just say Daff was very unhappy with this variation in his viv temps in such a short space of time. He's much happier with the more stable 25W temps. Even though it's on for longer than it's off in general, the temps are far more stable than turning on the 100W for 30secs then having the temps skyrocket then switch off for ages while the temps go back to a reasonable temperature.


I have a digital too, and the temps read the same, but I find for quick, rough measurements the strip is better (the digital takes longer to settle). Basically the smart materials light up if they get to the temperature that they are designed for, each one seperately, then gradually (a few secs-1min) fade as the temp changes. Only one or two should be lit at a time, unless you've just changed something drastic (eg taken from your slightly chilly room, and put direct onto the heat mat). I had the strip in the viv and it was stable, until the 100W turned on, then it lit up like a Christmas tree - one after the other - so quickly that about 1/2 the strip was lit up before the thermostat clicked off (about 30 secs after turning on). Then they gradually turned off leaving the temp showing at over 100 (the thermsotat was set to 85/6ish). Daff was sooooo not happy. He's much happier now that the 25W provides much more stable temps, still on the thermostat.


mecoat ~

Thanks for sharing these results of your LCD (?) test :-).

Is the strip you speak one of those Zoo Med (.75 inch x 5.25 inch) LCDs (liquid crystal displays)? As we speak I have a brand new Zoo Med LCD on the wall right next to my gecko room's Honeywell thermostat. It is NOT stuck to the wall with the adhesive which comes on it. The Honeywell reads 76 F; the LCD has the 75, 80, and 82 bars lit up. So how do you know what the temperature really is?

All 3 bars seem to stay lit. :-( The LCD thermometer has been on the wall a long time.

Something else concerns me. You mention your thermostat was set for 85-86 F, yet the LCD measured over 100 F? At that point was the thermostat still on...still heating?

Elizabeth Freer
09-12-2013, 12:49 AM
Just placed an order for a CHE. I decided to go with the 40W because 25W seemed too low to me... I figured that I can try it for a day, and if it's not ideal, I'll exchange it for a different wattage.

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

Be sure to update this thread with the results of your tests. We can all learn :-).

mecoat
09-12-2013, 04:01 AM
mecoat ~

Thanks for sharing these results of your LCD (?) test :-).

Is the strip you speak one of those Zoo Med (.75 inch x 5.25 inch) LCDs (liquid crystal displays)? As we speak I have a brand new Zoo Med LCD on the wall right next to my gecko room's Honeywell thermostat. It is NOT stuck to the wall with the adhesive which comes on it. The Honeywell reads 76 F; the LCD has the 75, 80, and 82 bars lit up. So how do you know what the temperature really is?

All 3 bars seem to stay lit. :-( The LCD thermometer has been on the wall a long time.

Something else concerns me. You mention your thermostat was set for 85-86 F, yet the LCD measured over 100 F? At that point was the thermostat still on...still heating?

Hi Elizabeth

Sounds like a similar if not identical product. I haven't stuck mine down either, as I can move it around then. For the most part I usually have only 1 or maybe 2 colours lit (in which case the temp is somewhere in between). Is it possible you've got a war water pipe (Central Heating?) running through the wall at the point you mention? That might affect the temperatures shown.

Yes, at the point the termometer read over 100 the thermostat was still on, although it switched off shortly afterwards. As I've said before the temperature rose so quickly the thermostat got confused (all digital probes take a while to read the current temperature, as you'll have noticed when you move your thermometer probe around hte viv (it takes a while to decide what the temp is). The thermostat does the same, so it takes a while to realise it's reached temperature. This is fine if the temperature is going up relatively slowly, but not if it's rising as quickly as it did with the 100W. Really, if you put your hand in the viv under the 100W you could feel how quickly it was rising.

Another thing to consider is that I have (like most Brits) a wooden viv, which is more sealed than the open top glass tanks that seem to be more prevalent in the States. It's possible that temps don't rise so quickly with the top open to vent all the hot/warm air straight out, isn't it? Which may be why you've not noticed this problem, different kinds of viv.

ChiTea
09-12-2013, 02:39 PM
Those that use a CHE: do you use a thermostat with it, and if so, which one? The thermostat that I bought a few weeks ago says it's specifically for heat mats. I was just wondering if there was one that was better for controlling a CHE.

thanks!

ChiTea
09-14-2013, 11:06 PM
I got my CHE yesterday, and it says that it's only supposed to be used with wire cage holders. Is this true? I only have one of the regular clamp light 'cages'. Not sure what they're called...

ChiTea
09-17-2013, 02:23 AM
Hi daisy,

I do have both. I'm just trying to switch from a heat lamp bulb to a CHE, but the instructions say I can only use a wire lamp, but I'm trying to figure out if that's true, or if I can use the regular clamp lamp to hold my CHE. The thermostat I have for my UTH says it's best for heat mats, so I wasn't sure if there was a different thermostat that was better for a CHE.

-ChiTea

Elizabeth Freer
09-17-2013, 03:13 AM
Leopard geckos should be housed with both a heat mat and and bulb in their vivariums.
Although they r expensive it is well worth investing in a good thermometer. My thermometer
Makes sure that the vivarium is 28 degrees in the day and 20 at night, and an alarm goes off if the temperature is above or below this.

Hope this helped, Daisy

Daisy ~

Excellent to use both an UTH and an overhead dome so that a leo has a warm zone! :banana:

The temperatures you report above are a bit too cool for leos.

How about something like these \/?

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

Elizabeth Freer
09-17-2013, 03:27 AM
Hi daisy,

I do have both. I'm just trying to switch from a heat lamp bulb to a CHE, but the instructions say I can only use a wire lamp, but I'm trying to figure out if that's true, or if I can use the regular clamp lamp to hold my CHE. The thermostat I have for my UTH says it's best for heat mats, so I wasn't sure if there was a different thermostat that was better for a CHE.

-ChiTea

ChiTea ~

wire lamp ???

Does your metal clamp lamp have a ceramic socket rated to at least the wattage of your CHE? If so, the metal clamp lamp should be fine :-).

A separate thermostat (same kind as for your UTH) is best for your overhead dome since it will be set for a different temperature than the thermostat monitoring your UTH.

Does this make sense?

ChiTea
09-17-2013, 12:55 PM
hi Elizabeth,

Here's a picture of the wire lamp device (?) that the CHE instructions recommend: 25462

Here are the instructions on the inside of the metal clamp lamp:
25463

Yes, I definitely wanted to get a separate thermostat for the CHE, I just wasn't sure if there was a difference between thermostats built for UTH's versus CHE's. I guess not.

Makes total sense. Thanks for your help!!

Elizabeth Freer
09-17-2013, 02:44 PM
hi Elizabeth,

Here's a picture of the wire lamp device (?) that the CHE instructions recommend: 25462

Here are the instructions on the inside of the metal clamp lamp:
25463

Yes, I definitely wanted to get a separate thermostat for the CHE, I just wasn't sure if there was a difference between thermostats built for UTH's versus CHE's. I guess not.

Makes total sense. Thanks for your help!!

You are welcome, ChiTea :).

What are the dimensions of your leo's habitat?

A couple things: Your metal clamp lamp (not a wire "fixture" like you pictured) will work much better. I recommend the same type metal clamp lamp, but a large one. The 10 inch diameter clamp lamp is much better if you have a 30 x 12 x 12 inch tank because it directs much more of the heat back into your leo's tank where you want it. A 5.5 inch metal clamp lamp is just not as effective :-(.

What wattage is your CHE? Some people find a 60 watt (or even 100 watt CHE--on a thermostat of course) is what they need for a 30 x 12 x 12 inch tank. Larger domes are compatible with higher wattage CHEs.

cricket4u
09-17-2013, 02:45 PM
hi Elizabeth,

Here's a picture of the wire lamp device (?) that the CHE instructions recommend: 25462

Here are the instructions on the inside of the metal clamp lamp:
25463

Yes, I definitely wanted to get a separate thermostat for the CHE, I just wasn't sure if there was a difference between thermostats built for UTH's versus CHE's. I guess not.

Makes total sense. Thanks for your help!!

I'm pretty sure that their main concern is not to use it in a plastic frame for the obvious reason (melting). You have a ceramic frame and the CHE is under 75 watts, therefore you should be fine. If you feel safer using the recommended wire lamp, go ahead, although I would think that a good amount of heat will be lost through the wire.

Also make sure that you have a window which allows a good amount of daylight in the room.

ChiTea
09-17-2013, 02:57 PM
hi Cricket - that was my thought, as well; that heat would be lost. I'll just use my metal frame. I got a 40W CHE to start.

I actually have 2 metal clamp lamp frames - this one is the 5.5", but I do also have a 10", which is what I've been using for the heat lamp. I just took a picture of the instructions on the smaller one, since there was no bulb in it - easier to see.

Thanks again!! Everyone on this forum has been such a huge help. I haven't owned a pet since I was pretty young, but I just absolutely fell in love with my little leo, Reggie. I want to make sure that I do everything right for him :)

25470

Elizabeth Freer
09-17-2013, 03:00 PM
hi Elizabeth - that was my thought, as well; that heat would be lost. I'll just use my metal frame.

Thanks again!! You and everyone on this forum have been such a huge help. I haven't owned a pet since I was pretty young, but I just absolutely fell in love with my little leo, Reggie. I want to make sure that I do everything right for him :)

Yes, ChiTea ~

Much heat will be lost if not redirected back into the habitat. The wider the dome the better :biggrin:.

Glad you love leo Reggie. He's a lucky leo.