[Joeyboy]

I'm just wondering if they're totally nocturnal or not? As obviously it effects whether I need a lighting system. I don't need one for heat as my room is rather warm as it is(74f ambient right now, 78f earlier. Probably need to move to a cooler room in summer), maybe in winter to bump the temps though. However obviously if they're nocturnal I'll use a heat mat rather then a basking bulb and UV since it won't really be necessary.

Then housing wise, what is the recommended size for one individual? I have an empty 30x30x45cm exo terra. (so 1x1x1.5ft), is that too small?

cheers for any info.

[Michael C]

Joey, in the wild, Cyrtodactylus intermedius is strictly nocturnal.

[Bowfinger]

Use the heat mat/pad on side of tank or one side bottom and keep low as not to overheat, your temps are warm enough. Lighting is good for live plants if kept naturally and for a normal cycle.
I have used ceramic heat or night heat bulbs with good luck in the past. Keep an eye on available water and humidity. Also if you choose no light at all, try to get the room some light in daylight cycle and be extra clean removing feces etc. as bacteria will grow better in the dark environment.

[Joeyboy]

Originally Posted by Bowfinger

Use the heat mat/pad on side of tank or one side bottom and keep low as not to overheat, your temps are warm enough. Lighting is good for live plants if kept naturally and for a normal cycle.
I have used ceramic heat or night heat bulbs with good luck in the past. Keep an eye on available water and humidity. Also if you choose no light at all, try to get the room some light in daylight cycle and be extra clean removing feces etc. as bacteria will grow better in the dark environment.

thanks guys. Since I might go with no extra lighting bar room light I might go for the option of fake plants, I have a lot of natural dried decor here so I can do a pretty busy enclosure with non-live things. Though I'd use a peat/soil substrate a few inches deep with custodians like springtails to help with the mould/faeces issue.

So enclosure wise, is 30cmx30cmx45cm(LxWxH) enough or not for one?

[Bowfinger]

Just keep a close eye under those conditions. Though they have been bred under those conditions, in my experience using natural vs. non-lit/fake plants in the same room at the same time had one difference. I had an increase in microbial health issues, either bacterial or fungal related. This was after going from hobbyist with advanced natural set-ups into trying a more productive approach with less electricity and simpler design.
I am sure there is a way to do this, but requires caution and more research i.m.o. I believe the answers can come from arrow-frog husbandry and biological filtration ideas from the fish & amphibian hobbies. Due to their humidity needs, and size of lizards per area, their feces are very dangerous to keep in the tank and to rely on custodians requires a more natural mix soil than just peat and soil. If it should work, I would go 5 or more inches deep with layers and drain system so you can flush the soil frequently with fresh water, forcing out build up of the levels of broken down feces that are still poisonous (i.e. high bacteria count, ammonia,nitrates etc.).
I personally would use the peat only and scoop out feces with spoon if going a simple approach and use decor that can be cleaned easily.
Basically I am saying is go feces removal approach or go 100% natural. It would be difficult taking only half of the natural process. Believe me I have tried all with over 500 Cyrtodactylus and Uroplatus set ups and with 100% natural giving me and the gecko the most productive experience.

[Joeyboy]

Originally Posted by Bowfinger

Just keep a close eye under those conditions. Though they have been bred under those conditions, in my experience using natural vs. non-lit/fake plants in the same room at the same time had one difference. I had an increase in microbial health issues, either bacterial or fungal related. This was after going from hobbyist with advanced natural set-ups into trying a more productive approach with less electricity and simpler design.
I am sure there is a way to do this, but requires caution and more research i.m.o. I believe the answers can come from arrow-frog husbandry and biological filtration ideas from the fish & amphibian hobbies. Due to their humidity needs, and size of lizards per area, their feces are very dangerous to keep in the tank and to rely on custodians requires a more natural mix soil than just peat and soil. If it should work, I would go 5 or more inches deep with layers and drain system so you can flush the soil frequently with fresh water, forcing out build up of the levels of broken down feces that are still poisonous (i.e. high bacteria count, ammonia,nitrates etc.).
I personally would use the peat only and scoop out feces with spoon if going a simple approach and use decor that can be cleaned easily.
Basically I am saying is go feces removal approach or go 100% natural. It would be difficult taking only half of the natural process. Believe me I have tried all with over 500 Cyrtodactylus and Uroplatus set ups and with 100% natural giving me and the gecko the most productive experience.

ah ok then I'll have to look into going all natural. Probably just a UV tube and not a basking lamp though because really as the ambient temps in here are a basking lamp would be dimmed so much it would be off almost all the time. I suppose I could look into plants which grow well without excessive light..which I should be able to find with this lizard being found in humid forests. Maybe something like Epipremnum aureum? Obviously I'd have to trim it to stop it getting too cramped but it's found in Malaysia, Indonesia etc and does best without direct lighting, so the light from the room itself might be sufficient?

[Bowfinger]

LED was not available for a fair price when keeping my collection, but I would look into LED with proper spectrum for plants, they will will create heat at source only (the grid / heatsink) but not project the heat to the tank. They use less electricity in the long haul and last 10 years if quality (not China).

Otherwise flourescents, like an 18" tube is way cheap and can get grow bulb with little heat, that is what I used...pick up from any Home Supply Store. I believe your geckos will look their best under these conditions.

In my tanks, I would only run heat if any (pads or ceramic bulbs) at evening after lights out for few hours, actually starting hour before lights out. But you can play with their needs based on your research.

[Joeyboy]

Originally Posted by Bowfinger

Otherwise flourescents, like an 18" tube is way cheap and can get grow bulb with little heat, that is what I used...pick up from any Home Supply Store. I believe your geckos will look their best under these conditions.

Do fluorescent lights have the right spectrum for plants no matter which model? I have found this but it only says colour temperature, 3500k..I don't think that's the same as UV spectrum?

Commercial Lighting at Litecraft

[Bowfinger]

You want 5000k to 6500k for green growth. 2500-3000k is more for flowering. Maybe a bulb for fishtank plant growth might fit that spectrum?