G. luii care?

Kevin McRae · #1 12-08-2007, 10:45 AM

I may be getting some of these and I had a few questions.

I plan on either keeping them together in a exo terra 24x18x18 or in seperate 10 gallons, which would you do? I have a feeling they are WC so it would probably be best to keep them seperate.

Well, their name is cave gecko, so I imagine they live in caves? lol I heard they don't like light so does that mean not to use a florescent light for the day?

Any tips on acclimating them? I have never treated a WC gecko for parasites and I never have problems. I do have medicine for it though. Any tips? It says to put it in the water.

Thanks.

Any care tips would be great!

Brian · #2 12-08-2007, 10:27 PM

Keep them seperate until you determine they are eating. Use a low crevice type hide like a plastic plant suacer with a hole cut in the side (not top). This way they can snatch food with that long snout and not leave the hide if they like. Feed frequent small meals until you determine what they each eat. Anywhere from 1-5 items , but start with ~2. Feed daily if food disapears until food intake drops then switch to every other day. Eventually you can decrease more. A few have massively slow metabolisms though so adjust for those. Those may eat very little each week, but maintane a healthy weight (usually large old males). Don't bother with parasite meds IMO until they have weight on them.

Order of importance
1. Hydration
2. Food (immeadate calories)
3. Food (long term good health i.e. balanced diet with vits. and minerals)
4. Extra stuff like parasite treating, fancy enclosures, breeding etc.

Kevin McRae · #3 12-09-2007, 11:42 AM

Awesome, thanks!

All make sense to me!

Brian · #4 12-10-2007, 03:24 AM

Also, have standing water. I use a bottlecap from a water bottle. It'll force you to check on them daily when you refill it. I know some people probably spray, but it's important to have standing water so they can drink when they want.

They don't seem to do that well with a feast/famine type feeding regimen IMO.

Kevin McRae · #5 12-10-2007, 06:19 PM

Sounds like a good idea.

What is your opinion on lighting?

Brian · #6 12-10-2007, 11:40 PM

I don't think it's needed. I bet they have the pathway to do the D3/UV thing, but I've had females lay 8 eggs with no UV too and they didn't show any visible calcium issues.

They don't like the light though so I try to keep the light level low.

While they can be kept like thermoconformers they do seem to appreciate some heat and grow faster with it (but I haven't had faster maturation with females) . Actually I'm doubting my method of keeping these and will probably eventually allow them all to have a small gradient in spring/fall eventually.

The thing to watch for with really hungry things is that when they strike they sometimes miss and get some dirt so make sure they can't swollow anything nasty. If you supplement enough that should stop them from intentionally eating stuff off the ground.

I actually prefer keeping new ones in plastic boxes because the top makes the humidity in the air high with little work. Even in a winter home.

Kevin McRae · #7 12-11-2007, 11:44 AM

Interesting.

I'm told they are eating very well.

He says all 3 are males and are being kept together. I was hoping I could get 1.1 but all well. I will probably get two males and keep them seperate. Are they easy to sex?

Brian · #8 12-12-2007, 01:36 AM

I don't even bother looking at pores in adults. Big buldge.

Kevin McRae · #9 12-12-2007, 01:54 AM

Sounds about right.

Thanks for the information, I'm going to pick two up on Thursday. Each will have a ten gallon enclosure, cypress mulch substrate. I put some corkbark flats in each enclosure. I have some pothos in there too. I am using a plexi glass lid for each, should keep up the humidity quite well. I am going to use a florescent because of the plants but I won't add any heat. The herp room is always 70-80 so it should be perfect. Sometimes in dips into the 60's over night.

Should be fun anyways. I'll post some pics on Thursday night.