[Geckos and Goannas]

last one is G. luii. but sadly in very poor condition.

[Lizardman]

Hi, I would say that the 4 first Goniurosaurus pics are of Goniurosaurus hainanensis and the last two pics are of Goniurosaurus luii. Yes, I agree with you there redtegu that the g.luii is in very bad condition.

/Niclas

[RamseysReptiles]

Agreed Male is G. hainanensis and female is G. luii. Any updates of the animal. I hope she made through with the liquid diet.

[DavidK]

I agree, she looks almost dead. Sometimes the imports come in heavily parasitized. I would seek the assistance of a veterinarian.

The animal looks stressed and sick. It will be important to isolate the cause of the condition: ie. is it care related, stress from the congener, or disease. At any rate, the animal's condition looks like you are going to need to intervene immediately.

If you can't find a vet, and the animal is not too far gone, you might try the following (this has worked for my imported Uroplatus lineatus geckos in the past):
1. See if you can get a hold of some baby electrolyte solution from a local market. Here in the states we have a brand called Pedialyte. Mix this 50:50 by volume with clean drinking water (not deionized or reverse osmosis water). Also obtain some pureed chicken baby food (make sure there is nothing else added) and mix the two until you get a mixture which is opaque but not thick and viscous.
2. Fill an eyedropper or diabetic syringe without a needle to about 1 cc with the mixture.
3. With a speculum or the back side of a butter knife, tease the lizards mouth open paying particular attention to not damage the gums. Many wild caught G. luii and G. hainanensis will open the mouth in a defensive gape when you grab them, so you may not need to open the mouth forcibly.
4. Next, insert the eye dropper to the back of the throat and slowly inject the liquid into the lizard's mouth, making sure the lizard is not aspirating it into the lungs.
5. Repeat the process once daily until you can get the animal to the vet and get it treated for the physical disease cause if any.

I would separate the affected animal from the other and quarantine it. This will also relieve intraspecific stresses as well. Other than the feeding regimen, which is incredibly stressful on the animal, try to minimize activity around the cage, etc. Give it a cage with moist but not wet media and a dark hiding place. Keep the ambient temperature in the cage at about 75 degrees Fahrenheit and mist spray the cage in the evenings. When the animal becomes strong enough to feed on its own, offer waxworms and slow moving insects, like second instar Blaptica dubia.

Good luck.

I hope this helps,

David