Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    53
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko_Gal View Post
    After the 70mL do you still go in every once in a while and spray the vermiculite? Or No? And how long does it usually take them to hatch>
    I check the eggs from time to time (once a week) and if the substrate gets dry, I carefully add some water onto the vermiculite around the eggs (with a syringe) . But take care : No water on the eggs.
    The incubation can last between 55-80 days depends on temperature.

    G. catbaensis - G. bawanglingensis - G. orientalis
    G. kuroiwae - G. splendens - G. yamashinae - G. huuliensis
    G. lichtenfelderi - G. luii - G. araneus - G. hainanensis

    Aeluroscalabotes felinus, Pachydactylus rugosus,
    Laudakia melanura, Lepidophyma flavimaculatum (parth.)
    Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus, Rhacodactylus auriculatus


    goniurosaurus.net

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California, USA
    Posts
    49
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Do you know why maybe they get all moldy? The eggs start to mold within days of them being hatched. And what substrate do you keep your geckos on, and what substrate is in your laybox?

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Germany
    Posts
    53
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko_Gal View Post
    Do you know why maybe they get all moldy? The eggs start to mold within days of them being hatched.
    There are several reasons, eggs will start to mold:

    1. eggs are not fertilized (my first thought about your eggs)
    2. the incubation substrate is too wet
    3. insufficient aeration in the incubation container

    Quote Originally Posted by Gecko_Gal View Post
    And what substrate do you keep your geckos on, and what substrate is in your laybox?
    I use cocosfibre in my cave geckos terrariums. One site a bit more dry, the other one with moisty hides. And this is where my females lay their eggs. So at the moment no need for layboxes.

    cheers
    Caro

    G. catbaensis - G. bawanglingensis - G. orientalis
    G. kuroiwae - G. splendens - G. yamashinae - G. huuliensis
    G. lichtenfelderi - G. luii - G. araneus - G. hainanensis

    Aeluroscalabotes felinus, Pachydactylus rugosus,
    Laudakia melanura, Lepidophyma flavimaculatum (parth.)
    Nephrurus wheeleri cinctus, Rhacodactylus auriculatus


    goniurosaurus.net
    Likes Big Red One liked this post

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    California, USA
    Posts
    49
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thank you! I think it is either they aren't getting enough air or the eggs are infertile. Though I've never have infertile eggs mold before.. I'll poke some more holes in the box next time, I believe she is gravid too.
    The Family
    - 2.6.3 Leopard Geckos
    - 1.1.2 Crested Geckos
    - 2..0 Chinese Cave Geckos
    - 0.1.0 Nephrurus milii Knobtail
    - 1.0.0 Lacerta Lepida

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Caracas, Venezuela
    Posts
    1,715
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I have ZERO experience with cave geckos, but I have succesfully bred Eulepharis a few times, when I read your first post my first thought was that they might be infertile, have you cracked them open when you are sure they are bad? To see if there is an embryo there??
    Saskia!

    7.9.0 Eublepharis macularius - Leopard Geckos
    1.3.0 Hemitheconyx caudicinctus - African Fat Tailed Gecko
    2.1.0 Correlophus ciliatus - Crested Gecko


    ..."don't breed or buy while homeless die"...

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    USA, Oregon
    Posts
    20
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I incubate my cavies at 75*. I keep them similarly to how I used to incubate my crested gecko eggs, using the aquatic pond soil. I do not worry about fluctuating temperatures, as long as it's not a huge change. A few degrees up or down thru the day makes no issues in my experience. Make sure if you don't have holes in the enclosure you at least air them out once a week by opening the lid. And to see if they are fertile you can always put a light up to the egg about a week after it is laid to see if there is the tell-tale red circle in there, which denotes a fertile egg.

    My first thought is that you had infertile eggs.

    Good luck!
    g. luii 2.0.0 | g. hainanensis 1.1.0 | g. araneus 0.1.0
    n. wheeleri 1.1.0 | H. imbricatus 1.0.0 | 1.2.1 p. picta
    0.2.1 gargs | 3.2.2 cresteds | 1.3.0 leos | 2 L. lugubris
    on the lookout for 0.1.0 H. imbricatus

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Posts
    4
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Hi, I have bred hainanensis, araneas and luii with mixed results. My hatch rate for the hainans have been better. I soak perlite and top it off with eco earth so the humidity rate is constant without any water getteing on the eggs- I don't have a problem with mold and the temperature is about 80F.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •