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02-24-2012, 11:23 AM #1
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my list of things;-
viv is a exo terra medium rainforest (45x45x60cm) i have vines in there and i have fake plants with a consent supply of water in a bowl for him.
sub strait is exo terra plantation soil,
heat mat is 16wat which i have under the viv,
i mist twice a day
temps;- day time are around 75 to 80 on top of the sub strait directly over the heatmat air temp taken from the very top of the tank is around 65 to 70
-night time are 65 to 70 at the top of the sub strait directly over the heatmat (i turn this off on a night time) and temp at the top of the tank is around 60 to 68 (i have a 15watt night glo bulb which i switch on)
humidity;- always around 75 to 80 90ish after misting
food my schedual for food is;- monday, CGD only
tuesday CGD with some live food (mainly crickets at the moment as i have loads)
wednesday CGD only again
thursday CGD only again
friday CGD with live food
sunday CGD with some live food
live food i give around 3 to 4 crickets only
this is all i can think of to say about what im doing if anyone needs more info please ask like i said early he just seems very larthgic and not eating CGD (but i think this is due to the baby food) so going to start hand feeding him the CGD i dont even know if he is drinking as i have yet to see him do it
i would post pics but it keeps failing on me and i cant resize them as i dont know how
please any help just to know if im doing everything right would be so much appricated im getting so annoyed at the pet shops and upset with myself thinking im doing something wrong. thank you for reading this.
02-24-2012, 11:50 AM #2
For a 16g gecko, the 45x45x60 is pretty big and may make it hard for the gecko to find the food.
Here in Italy, some breeders like to feed baby food instead of CGD (don't know why, probably because it's cheaper...) so I ended up quite often with geckos that didn't want to eat CGD because they've been fed baby food ever since they were born (and since baby food is more appetizing, they didn't want to eat CGD). A good solution is to mix the baby food with the CGD and to slowly reduce the amount of baby food so that they slowly get accustomed to the CGD. This approach has never failed me.
Don't buy the heat lamp. Temps are fine. Is the bulb you use shielded somehow? If not, the gecko may hurt himself by touching it so remove it.
Misting twice a day is fine, but make sure one of the mistings takes place in the evening or the water will evaporate before the gecko will be able to drink it.
EDIT: If he's not losing weight, I wouldn't recommend hand feeding.
Last edited by xBlackLotusx; 02-24-2012 at 11:54 AM.
02-24-2012, 12:10 PM #3
yeh the bulb i have is in a canopy made by exo terra and it sits on top of the tank with the mesh cover under it. is there any good tips for where i could place the food ive been putting it near his water bowl as i was hoping he would know where his water bowl is.
im misting at around 12:30 then at around 21:00 before all lights are switched off and my final check on the temps etc
wat would be a good ratio of baby food to cgd to wean him off of it?
02-24-2012, 12:46 PM #4
Crested Geckos rarely use their water bowl to drink. They usually drink the water you spray (they drink dew in nature).
As I said, theorically you don't want to stabulate a small gecko in such a big terrarium. You may want to consider using a fauna-box up until he grows a little more.
Either way, some geckos prefer to eat the food on the ground and some don't. Simply put a dish on the ground and one somewhere at 20-30 cm high. Maybe on a branch or something.
It is hard to notice if the gecko has eaten or not because they usually don't eat too much. Especially if the gecko is small and you feed him so often. By the way, as long as he's pooping, you know he's eating (even tho it's not that easy to spot feces with small geckos).
I guess you could start with a 1:1 ratio of baby food and CGD and then gradually decrease the amount of baby food.
02-24-2012, 12:56 PM #5
Cresties commonly go on hunger-strikes after going through large changes, such as new enclosures. The majority of the time, they can safely go several weeks without eating, and be just fine.
I personally will not feed my collection baby food- I believe it's too high in sugar, and very difficult to supplement properly. If the correct calcium : phosphorus : D3 levels are not achieved (and supplementation needs will vary according to the types of fruits and how they're actually processed into the foods), cresties will not be able to absorb calcium properly and are very high risk to develop MBD. I stick with Repashy CGD and dusted & gutloaded bugs.
At 16g a Crestie should be ready for an "adult sized" enclosure- but you might have best luck in an enclosure this big setting up several feeding stations just to make food easier to find.
Temps anywhere in the 70s F is perfectly fine for Cresties, and even nightly drops down into the 60s are safe. Yes, they'll eat less and grow more slowly- but that's also fine. Cooler is safer than hotter, with Crested geckos.
You also want to establish a humidity cycle. Yes, you do want humidity 80-90% at night, but you also want to allow the enclosure to dry out during the day, down to about 40-50%. Constant high humidity typically leads to mold & mildew issues, which can trigger respiratory issues, and also can cause shed and other skin problems.
I wouldn't start handfeeding- that's just more likely to stress him out right now, and put him even more off food. I'd give him a few weeks to adjust to his new home, during which you leave him alone as much as possible (no handling outside of what's absolutely necessary). Give him time to figure out favorite sleeping spots, find his food, and establish a "normal" routine. Then you can start getting him used to you, and handling him.
Last edited by lauraleellbp; 02-24-2012 at 12:58 PM.
02-24-2012, 01:21 PM #6
He may be having trouble finding the crickets. You can cut back on them anyway. I just give crickets once every 2 weeks. I leave cgd every day, sometimes 48 hours till I change it out, but it dries up to quick. You may want to invest in a magnaturals ledge for feeding. Get the one with two holes, one for water, one for food. You can use jug lids instead of ordering the cups. They are about $30 but keep the food up high. I have a 3x5 inch critter keeper turned sideways on the floor. I put a broken flat piece of terrra cotta on the critter keeper with the two milk jug lids on that for food and water. It is a few inches off the ground. My crestie likes to go in it to shed too!! Your temps are fine. You could use just the mat or just the light. I use a 50watt blue moon glo in the winter for a few hours during the night. Cresties are fine with temps in the 70' going down to 60's F at night. Depending where you live you may or may not need heat. Maybe you want to try misting a little more or a quick third mist. I got a reptifogger, it's on a timer and fogs as opposed to mists, so its moist but not wet. I still hand mist if I feel it's needed.
02-24-2012, 03:17 PM #7
excellent thanks for all the advice ive put 2 dishes of CGD down after what youve all been saying and im going to introduce a thrid mist. going to keep the heat mat on during the day and the bulb on all the time to help increase the air temp aswell but im going to put lower watt bulbs in instead but just night glo bulbs and turn the heat mat off on a night time. thank you all so much for the advice
Last edited by langley863; 02-24-2012 at 03:19 PM. Reason: spelling mistake
02-24-2012, 04:46 PM #8
thanks for all the advice just seen him eat a cricket and head towards his food bowl looks like putting 2 in 1 on the vines and 1 on the floor seems to have done the trick so thank you all for the advice
another quick question how prone to injuries are the little chaps coz mine seems to have for doing werid things i put him on the floor as he normally just sits on my leg n he was sat there happy not moving i picked him back up n just as i was getting him into the viv he jumped missed the viv but hit the glass at the bottom just below where the doors open i picked him back up n dosent look like he has damaged himself but just wondering if i best start padding the room n thinking about pet insurence lol coz last thiing i want is to have him hurting himself im not rough handeling he just seems to jump and lack co-ordination lol
02-25-2012, 09:23 PM #9
They're very prone to "wild leaps into the unknown" and yes it can be a risk to their health, but most of the time they're just fine. I do try to handle my more jumpy geckos down near the floor or over a table to reduce risk of injuries, though. I've got hard tile floors; people with carpeted floors probably don't need to be nearly as concerned.
02-25-2012, 09:38 PM #10
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do you have plenty of cover in the cage? especially as it's a bit big, he'll need plenty of fake (or real) foliage so he feels safely hidden from light and predators.
I can't wait to see pictures!Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli * Liasis fuscus * Liasis mackloti * Liasis mackloti savuensis * Liasis olivaceous olivaceous* Anteresia maculosa * Python regius * Gekko gecko * Correlophus ciliatus * Blaesodactylus boivini * Lepidodactylus lugubrisPost Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likeslauraleellbp liked this post