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Thread: feeding time

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    megs317 is offline Newbie
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    Default feeding time


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    Hello Everyone,
    I just recently picked up my newest edition, a baby crested gecko! I have been feeding him CGD spraying him 2+ times daily. I was wondering how I would teach my gecko to eat out of a bowl. At this time I am just mixing it and putting some on a spoon for him to lick off then getting some more and repeating the process. I dont know how much he should be eating but he hasnt been eating very much. I have recently kept a small lid with food in it every nigh but have not yet seen him eat from it. Do you suggest a food and water bowl? if so how should I go about getting him to use them? thanks for all the help!

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    I encourage shallow bowls for little guys. Gallon milk jug caps work well if you trim or melt off the sharp rim edges. I don't think you have to teach them. Instinct does the rest.

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    megs317 is offline Newbie
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    Well I have kept food in a bottle cap for him but I have yet to see him eat from it. I am just wanting to make sure he eats enough food so he can grow properly. Right now he is just licking some off a spoon and he is done. should I be concerned?

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    I have only done spoon feeding a couple of times to our geckos for fun, never with the intention of establishing spoon feeding as a regular meal program or a transitional strategy. If your guy prefers his meals from a spoon, consider putting the spoon in his terrarium to act as a dish.

    If you use bottle caps, make sure you use caps that don't have any odor. Washed milk caps and water bottle caps work well for us. Our larger crestie learned to take meals from a 1 ounce pill dispenser cup, but the little guy doesn't like pill cups. I wonder how plastic off-gassing affects gecko appetites. I know some plastic smells make me nauseated. We use pill dispensers that are older and no longer reek of new plastic stink.

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    If you've had him in his new home for less than a week or two, this may be normal. Sometimes the stress of moving can cause them to temporarily stop eating. If you've been handling him and it's been less than that amount of time, I'd suggest leaving him alone and limiting interaction to spraying and placing food in his cage until you notice that either a)there's food missing from his dish 3 nights in a row or b)there's poop in his cage 3 days in a row. Either one is an indicator that he's settled in and eating.

    Any chance of getting some pictures of his cage? With little guys, smaller enclosures with lots of foliage (fake/real vines and other plants) are pretty much a must: they need to have plenty of places to hide and lurk around or they don't feel safe. I have also found that adding a little warmth (high 70's - low 80's F)to one end of the cage can rev up their appetite. If you do use some heat, don't use a light-emitting bulb, these can stress them out too (they're fine for adults and established younger cresteds). I know it sounds like they're easily freaked out, but remember that they're nocturnal and tiny. I go as far as to cover the cool end of my enclosure with a towel for added security. If all else fails, you can always try gut-loaded and dusted crickets. Just be warned: sometimes you can't get them back on the CGD!

    I apologize if you know all of this already, but these things can sometimes be the key to turning him around. Personally, I think he just needs a little time without handling. It'll be well worth the wait.
    Nate

    1.0.0 Battlecat - Ted

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    Quote Originally Posted by aquamentus_11 View Post
    If all else fails, you can always try gut-loaded and dusted crickets. Just be warned: sometimes you can't get them back on the CGD!
    Gee, I wonder how you'd happen to know about that?
    Likes aquamentus_11 liked this post

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