Results 1 to 10 of 10

Thread: I need help.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default I need help.


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Hey my names Damien and I'm new to the crested gecko world and this forum. I've bought books on crested's and researched them for months before I bought this one. The problem I'm having is the crested gecko will not stick to the side of the glass, and he only eats the CGD when I hand feed it to him. Here's all the information on the gecko.

    -Bought him from petco about 3 months old
    -He's in a 20 gallon tank, with coco fiber substrate and alot of branches to climb on/ a cave to hide in
    -He has a water bowl
    -Cage is misted 2 times a day
    -I've added 2 drops of honey and a little tropical fruit baby food to the CGD to see if he'll be attracted to it as opposed to me hand feeding him 24/7
    -5w UVB bulb that goes off during the night.
    -Temp stays anywhere from 60-75 degrees
    -Humidity is in the 70's during the day and spikes around 85 degree's at night
    -I've also given him the "sauna" treatment twice.

    Am I doing everything right? Or wrong? From what I've found if you feed them the Repashy CGD you're not supposed to feed them anything else. I'd appreciate any help.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    50
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I can only speak from my limited experience with my single crested. But...

    The UVB light isnt needed.

    60 degrees is a touch on the low side. I would try to stay between 70-78.

    As for the CGD and feeding only it. From what I have heard, seen and researched it can take a gecko time to switch to it from crickets or from an older version to a newer. There are several different varieties floating around and there have been reports of geckos being slow to switch.

    I offer fresh CGD every 48hrs. I also feed dusted dubia roaches in a deli cup attached to the glass. Dusted crickets get offered as a treat on the odd occasion. My crested learned to climb down his vines/glass into that deli cup and pick out his roaches within about a month of purchasing the little guy.

    photo (4).jpg

    But I differ to more knowledgeable people on this forum......
    Last edited by smcnearn; 04-15-2013 at 03:07 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    47
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    The reason he probably isn't eating for you is is that his tank is too big for him. I recommend keeping young cresteds in smaller enclosures, and then increasing the size as the gecko grows. A 20 gallon is perfect for an adult, but not ideal for a juvenile. If I were you, I'd think about moving him down into a sterilite bin, and then keeping the 20 gallon for when he's full grown. A lot of small geckos don't eat/grow well when the enclosure is too big. I use 20 qt bins that I get at Wal-Mart (or wherever), drill air holes in the side, drill a larger hole in the front and attach a small screen with a hot glue gun.

    Is there a way you can narrow down the temps better? If you can get the range to 70-75, that would be better. Allowing temps to drop down to 60 is not ideal.

    You may want to back off on the misting, too much humidity can cause issues as well. It would be better if the enclosure could dry out more during the day, like around the 50% range. I usually tell people to just mist once at night when the gecko is active, then the tank will dry out the next day. Your gecko may not be able to stick if it's too humid. If you do move him to a bin, then absolutely only mist once a day or you'll have too much again.

    Once you get him moved to a smaller enclosure, I would offer him cgd every other night. He should start eating on his own.

    Hope that helps. Just a little tweaking on your husbandry, and your gecko should start to do better.
    Krystal

    Gekkonidazed Geckos
    Likes Aimless liked this post

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    246
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    I have successfully housed hatchlings in 20g tanks, but you have to make sure there are more than one food stations. Also, depending on the amount of food offered him, you may not be noticing that he is eating. Try offering smaller amounts of food in more places around the tank (leave the food in for the 48 hrs, as mine like it better after it has been sitting around a while). As long as he is pooping, he's eating.
    As mentioned above, more consistent temps would help a lot. The UVB is not necessary, but I have one on several of my cages to help with the light cycle (and their colors pop more). Also as mentioned, cut down on the misting to once a day, unless you find the cage drying out excessively (bone dry between mistings).
    Do you have harder water? My geckos can't climb glass well when there are too many mineral deposits from the water used for misting. I have to scrape the glass every month or so.
    If you feel more comfortable and confident in your care to move him to a smaller container however, please do so by all means. A lot of times it's difficult to notice signs of trouble for new gecko owners, especially in larger vivs. I only mention my experience above to say that it can be done if attention is paid to details, and you keep a watchful eye on the gecko.
    Good luck! Hope things improve with his climbing and eating for you soon. Do keep us updated.
    6.4.7 Rhacodactylus ciliatus, 0.1 Rhacodactylus auriculatus, 2.4 Pareodura picta, 0.1 Gehyra marginata, 0.2 Gekko gekko, 1.0 Lygodactylus williamsi

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thank you all very much!!! Would a cricket keeper be a good size? I use bottled water to mist the cage and use it to give him drinking water. Also, do i still provide a hiding place in the cricket keeper as well??? How long do I keep him in the kricket keeper for?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Long Island, New York
    Posts
    352
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    You can keep the gecko in a small critter keeper until it gets larger. I recommend using rubbermaid containers from walmart (24 qts I believe) with paper towel, or mixed dirt ( I use coco fiber, wood shavings, sand and moss mixed together, and heavily soaked when I place in in the containers). It should be moderately to heavily planted with fake vines and cork bark or similar items.
    Do not mix the cgd with baby food. Baby food is made for babies, not geckos. It can lead to a poorly developed gecko in the future. I do not know too much about the honey. Just use water and the mix, until it is thin enough to come off the spoon fairly easily.
    The temperature gradient you are looking for is 76-80 during the day, and a drop to 68-72 at night is ok. Do not use heat mats. A small bulb (florescent or 25 watt max) should get you the correct temperature gradient during the day. At night, room temperature, unless really low, should work.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    image.jpg
    Here is my gecko. I believe he's 4 months old now. I put him in a cricket keeper with paper towels a toilet paper roll and his food/water dish. Instead of his 20 gal tank.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    654
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    he shouldn't have to be switched to the CGD: petco always has a large bowl of it in their crested cages. as stated above: smaller tank = better. he will need more coverage than that tube, so go out and find some fake vines. my advice: get him in a critter keeper or cricket keeper and leave him alone for a week or two. mist twice a day, change CGD ever other night, but don't pick him up until he has eaten x3 days in a row or you find poop x 3 days in a row. i'd even go as far as not going in that room as much as possible for about a week. he'll come around as long as you're patient.
    Nate

    1.0.0 Battlecat - Ted
    Likes Aimless liked this post

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    654
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    oh and the low temps will drop his metabolism causing him to grow more slowly and eat less. i also keep mine at room temp with a basking spot at around 85. you will have a hard time achieving a proper gradient with such a small enclosure. i laid a dome with a CHE on its side aimed at one end of the enclosure and put my thermometer probe inside.
    Nate

    1.0.0 Battlecat - Ted

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    3,906
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    ^^ excellent advice, all around!
    [I]* Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli *Liasis olivaceous olivaceous * Blaesodactylus boivini * /I]

User Tag List

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •