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Thread: Further feeding help
06-09-2013, 03:55 AM #1
Further feeding help
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I tried giving her the smallest crickets that I could find, as well as the smallest hoppers that I could find, but she just ignored them.
She also ignores the CGD that I give her, which is worrying me. She's about 4 inches long, nose to tip of her tail.
Is it okay to continue to feed her the waxworms until she is big enough to try a few larger crickets or hoppers? What if I dip the waxworm into the CGD so she gets both?
06-09-2013, 09:24 PM #2
the first thing to consider in a new gecko who won't eat is stress/getting settled. in cases like this, i've found that it's best to LEAVE THEM ALONE. mist the viv, mix the CGD/dust the crickets, turn the lights off and leave the room for the night. check for poop in the morning and remove leftover crickets then leave her alone for the rest of the day. if after 2 weeks of not being disturbed and being provided with adequate food/water she still isn't eating, it's time to consider the other variables. how large is her viv? (smaller=better for tiny ones) what are the temps and humidity? (a basking spot of around 80F does wonders) does she have enough cover? is the prey appropriately sized?
it's hard when you have a source of worry surrounding your new gecko not to check in on it, but i can tell you from personal experience that the New Caledonian species really respond well to a period of minimal human interaction. if all of her environmental needs are met, she will not allow herself to starve. it took me some time to realize this, but once i began to see this to be true, i've been able to really back off with "trouble eaters" and they've all done well as a result. my advice: no more fruit or worms...stick with CGD or properly gutloaded and dusted crickets. as a general rule, no handling should be done until you have 3 consecutive days of eating/pooping. considering that you're going to have her around for 10+ years, 1-2 weeks is a small price to pay.Nate
1.0.0 Battlecat - Ted
06-09-2013, 09:27 PM #3
also, all 3 of those foods are things that she shouldn't have often. i induced mild MBD in my baby gargoyle by feeding banana. the only thing that reversed it?....calcium dusted cricketsNate
1.0.0 Battlecat - Ted
06-10-2013, 01:27 AM #4
I feel this question pops up every 2 weeks...
To get a crestie to eat CGD, rub a small amount on it's nose. It will lick it off, and enjoy it. After that, its easy. A close friend of mine, who took over a good portion of my crested gecko collection when I moved on from them just got his week old hatchlings to go straight to CGD. Something I never tried to do. I NEVER feed meal worms to any gecko species. More often than not, they will not break the exoskeleton, and gain no nutritional value whatsoever. Wax worms are a treat to my animals, strictly to fatten up geckos. They are the fattiest feeder in the common market. Roaches were not readily accepted or available to me when I kept cresties. Crickets were always accepted at first, but tapered off a they reached adulthood. Finally, fresh pureed fruit was offered once in a while with success as well. Banana is in no way a staple, but can be used to ease it into CGD. (mix CGD with the banana, adding more CGD less banana each time.
06-11-2013, 12:29 AM #5
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Keep trying with the CGD. Which one are you using/have you tried? I found that the regular flavour Repashy is best, but some like the banana flavour. The other thing you can try to do is mix it thinner/thicker for a week or two to see if that helps. I have one that won't eat it unless it is about the same consistency as banana.
The other thing I did to transition one of my babies that was pet store raised on crickets was to dip the cricket in mixed repashy CGD. It got her interested in the taste by the movement of the cricket. Now she'll come to me and attack the CGD as I put it in her enclosure.
I wouldn't offer anything else when offering the CGD. If you give alternatives then they won't transition. If I gave you a salad and ice cream as options for dinner, and you had no concept of nutrition and were used to only eating ice cream... then you're going to choose the ice cream 9 times out of 10. That's what it's like for the geckos.
Also, they tend to eat more when the temps are on the warmer side (75ºF-80ºF).
Good luck!8.7.5 Correlophus (Rhacodactylus) ciliatus [Eyelash Crested Gecko]
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0.0.1 Ceratophrys ornata [Argentine Horned Frog]
3.1.1 Agapornis roseicollis [Peach-Faced Lovebird]
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