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Thread: Am I set?

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    In a few months time (well, Christmas) I should be getting a crested gecko. I'm already pretty certain I know everything I need to know as to regards to keeping it, but I have a few questions that don't seem to get answered that often or at all definitely.

    I'll start by saying the very basics of what I think I need and am required to do, then I'll ask questions.

    Temperature: No heating, 20-22*C
    Lighting: None required, but I'll probably get a 7% output UVB bulb anyway
    Cage: Exo Terra 45X45X60cm (LXDXH) - this is actually arriving within a week, I'm already
    getting prepared
    Substrate: Eco Earth, Plantation Soil, Coco Brick etc (coconut fibre). Also some sphagnum moss or similar.
    Feeding: Some form of CGD (I have a question about this I'll ask down below) alongside weekly or bi-weekly insects in the form of locusts, wax worms and meal worms, all of which dusted in Arcadia Earth-Pro A.
    Humidity: Kept damp, misted once before lights out every day so that everything gets wet and can dry out again before the next day. I might do twice daily misting but I seriously doubt it will all dry up that fast.
    Sourcing: I'll be getting it from Pets at Home I think, although if this is 100% impossible at the time I'll order from LillyExotics. I know P@H can get a bad rap but honestly from my personal experience they're A okay when it comes to reptiles.
    Handling: Handled after cleaning hands, for 20-30 minute sessions every two/three days. Also handled near the floor or a surface to prevent it leaping off and hurting itself/escaping.
    Cage furnishings: Canopy food holder (ProRep Jelly Pot holder, though don't worry, I won't actually use Jelly Pots!), milk lid for food, hanging plants, vines, stand-alone plants preferably with horizontal leaves, cork bark if can get some and maybe some magnetic ledges if I can find any that don't break the bank!

    That's pretty much the bare bones of what I think I need to know, but I have a few questions that I want to clear up before I get the animal.

    1) Is floppy tail syndrome preventable just by providing horizontal sleeping areas? I only found out about FTS last night so it's quite a new thing in my mind!
    2) Do you recommend Pangea CGD, or Repashy? I read that a lot of geckos won't touch the latest version of Repashy, but everything on that subject seems to be from two years ago and surely Repashy would have changed back to the old diet if it was better? I'd just play safe and try Pangea, but they feed Repashy at P@H AND LillyExotics so I'm not certain whether it'd just be better to give it what it's used to having?
    3) If you think Pangea is better, then what flavour would you suggest? I've heard good stuff about the PFMC With Insects.
    4) When I feed off insects, can't I just dust them with CGD powder?
    5) Is there any behavioral differences between males and females? Like is one more active or one better for handling?
    6) If I got a male, could it impact my leopard gecko? She's a female and will be situated right next to the cresty's cage when I get it and I only just thought, maybe male pheromones would send my leo into ovulation? I say this because the YouTube channel called Leopard Gecko has only one male leopard gecko and all of her female geckos (crested and leopard) go into ovulation without any sort of contact with the male. If this is a possibility I definitely want a female cresty because I wouldn't like to put Cleo (my leopard) through the possible stress of laying eggs for no reason.
    7) Can a cresty pass anything on to a leopard gecko, i.e. will it need a quarantine period?
    Eight (for some reason, putting 8 and then a closing bracket makes a face with sunglasses...)) Is there anything I should know about that I've not mentioned, like diseases to which they are susceptible, things to do with husbandry and little tricks that are helpful in day to day dealings with cresties?

    Thanks a lot if you've actually made it to the bottom, there's a lot of questions up there I'm afraid! Anyway, thank you in advance for any replies and I'll look forward to hearing from you all!
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

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    NEHERP - Vivarium Care Articles & Education
    NEHERP - Crested & Gargoyle Gecko Care
    Give some of these articles a read and See how it compares to what you have or plan as far as husbandry goes.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer, Aimless liked this post

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    Thanks, there's some good stuff there. It doesn't really answer all my questions but there's lots of nice info to scan through

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    • Range: 19.4 - 26.7 ish *C.
    • I suggest a 60 day quarantine in a different room than your leo. Diseases can be transferred between reptiles.
    • Eco Earth's "brick" is coco fiber.
    • Start out with the diet your crestie is accustomed to. Then gradually switch/combine/add Pangea Complete diets.
    • I use Pangea Complete diets for my crestie George: with insects, watermelon/mango, & banana/apricot. It's good to have all 3 so you can vary the diet.
    • I'd skip waxworms and mealworms. Do locusts and crickets (? Blaptica dubia) for insects.
    • Try dusting the insects with Pangea Complete diets.
    • No handling at first. Let your crestie settle in.
    • Humidity: damp NOT wet & then dry out.
    • Add hiding place for sleeping: 2-3 inch diameter bamboo tube, cork tube, or PVC tube.
    • "8." works.


    Click for more answers: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...ry-2015-a.html

    There are more tips in the posts following my basic crestie care guidelines.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-26-2016 at 08:43 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    I would also recommend browsing through JB's caresheets.
    JB's Crested Gecko Info
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com
    Likes Aimless liked this post

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    Thanks for that
    I've already read JB's website, it's quite good!

    Why ditch mealworms and waxworms? I know people say that mealworms can cause impaction and waxworms are fatty, but surely they'll be fine every now and again? I can't get crickets or roaches sadly, the last time I had crickets for my leopard gecko they smelt that bad that I'm now no longer allowed them and if I've ever mentioned roaches it's 'NO. Nonononono!' etc etc

    I want cork bark, it looks really good, but in the UK (or at least where I am) they don't seem to sell it anywhere. The magnetic hides look good but you can't get them here either :/. I think bamboo might be a good option though, I can get that!

    As for quarantine, that's going to be a bit tricky, I might have to temporarily keep it in a RUB/hero haven/faunarium/kritter keeper which I assume will be OK?

    Talking about that, I forgot to ask something. In P@H they keep the Cresties in cages about 60X60X90, so if I got one from there would it be fine to put it straight into the 45X45X60?

    Thanks again

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    If you feed mealworms, they have harder exoskeletons and cresties don't get the belly heat that would aid them in digesting these bugs. Waxworms are very fatty and can be addictive to geckos and you don't want your gecko to refuse healthy foods for bad ones.
    I would suggest that if you get a young gecko your best option would be to start out in a medium kritter keeper anyways. Small geckos tend to do better in a smaller enclosure and when they get a little bigger you can move it into the larger tank.
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com

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    Okay, I never thought of that with the heat. That makes quite a lot of sense!

    Wouldn't putting it in a smaller enclosure be a bit mean though? I mean, I AM going to because it'll be easier to quarantine it in a small, sterile cage, but I'd rather not move it from a large, spacious area into a box for too long.

    Saying that, it actually brings me onto another point - why do I need to quarantine for so long? 2 months is quite a while, whenever I've quarantined animals in the past it's only been for a month tops! What illnesses are there that a crestie could actually carry and give to a leopard? The only one I can think of is cryptosporidium, but can Cresties even get that?

    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by JTB View Post
    Okay, I never thought of that with the heat. That makes quite a lot of sense!

    Wouldn't putting it in a smaller enclosure be a bit mean though? I mean, I AM going to because it'll be easier to quarantine it in a small, sterile cage, but I'd rather not move it from a large, spacious area into a box for too long.

    Saying that, it actually brings me onto another point - why do I need to quarantine for so long? 2 months is quite a while, whenever I've quarantined animals in the past it's only been for a month tops! What illnesses are there that a crestie could actually carry and give to a leopard? The only one I can think of is cryptosporidium, but can Cresties even get that?

    Thanks
    I start all of my babies in smaller enclosures and upgrade when they get larger. It actually helps them to feel more secure as well as helping them to find their food easier as well. A LOT of keepers and breeders would recommend this/do this. We've found that a baby gecko in a large enclosure usually leads to stress and a lack of appetite. I keep babies in smaller enclosures like a medium Kritter Keeper, then upgrade to a medium sized enclosure when they hit about 10 grams and then upgrade again to their adult enclosure when they hit about 25-30 grams.
    As far as for quarantine, 60 days is usually the norm. It's just to be safe rather than sorry.
    Other than Crypto, I don't personally know of another disease off the top of my head but parasites could also be transmitted from your new gecko to your leo.
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com

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    Okay, I'm actually pretty sure that the cresteds from P@H are about 15g anyway, because I held one the other week and it felt about that. I'll give it 60 days quarantine anyway also, I don't want anything happening to my leopard gecko!

    I've been reading a lot more about Repashy vs Pangea and a lot of people are saying that the 3.0 version of Repashy isn't particularly liked by their geckos. So would it be better if I just started off using Repashy watermelon mango, or MRP Classic, because it's still Repashy but apparently they actually eat it? I don't want to buy a pack of food for him/her not to eat it, it's about a tenner a pop!
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

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