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  1. #1
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    Talking things for crested gecko


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    So I am confused on what I need to buy for the crested gecko and is it true that you need to quarintine them for 2 weeks before you put them in also I want to use zoo med repti carpet and do I have to put it in a bleach solution or something or can I rinse it off with hot or cold water and let it dry and for the decorations do I also have to bleach/disinfect them or rinse and my house goes to the lowest at 65 in the winter so would that be okay. also What is the difference between cleaning and deep cleaning and how many times do you have to clean the tank. do you have to do anything for molting i dont know anything about it and what it for and how many times the geck would do it. and how do you stay safe from dieseases that they give

    Heres my item check list

    29 gallon tank or 18x18x24
    Kritter cage large (for quarintene)
    Respashy
    artificial plants
    repti carpet (or paper towels depending on your answer)
    Hide
    Perching spots
    cup feeder
    sprayer
    Thermometer and hygrometer

    Is there anything i need to add please tell me
    Last edited by repguy; 11-07-2016 at 05:02 PM.

  2. #2
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    I would direct you to this caresheet, in our caresheet subforum. it contains the answers to almost all of your questions.

    if your humidity is properly maintained, you will never have to do anything for your gecko's shed (moult) cycle. he'll handle it just fine on his own, generally in the middle of the night.

    IMO, reptile carpet is a terrible idea. it's impossible to ever truly clean it (and bleach is inadvisable for maintenance cleaning for reptiles, it's overkill and also hard on their mucus membranes if you don't get absolutely all of it off). I personally only use paper towels for small babies or QT. two weeks is fine if he'll be living alone; you'll have adequate time to make sure his poop looks normal.

    I'd go with the 18x18x24, and use a soil/moss substrate and live plants. it's much easier to care for over time and looks nicer.
    [I]* Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli *Liasis olivaceous olivaceous * Blaesodactylus boivini * /I]
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  3. #3
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    Your list sounds good! Yes, the 2-week quarantine is always a good idea, especially if the animal is going to be housed with other animals. Most breeders use 30 days to quarantine, but as long as your gecko is alone, 2 weeks is okay.

    Vinegar is fine for cleaning, you can use a diluted bleach x water combo but be sure to rinse everything out VERY well. You can use paper towel instead of the Repti-carpet, far more cost effective and can be thrown out when it gets gross.

    I would get a low-wattage heat bulb for temperatures under 70... Amazon is a great place to get light bulbs and other supplies. (Especially if you have Prime, then free shipping!)

    Spot clean the tank 1x per week, removing waste, wiping off dirty decor, etc. Change your paper towel 1x per week as well. If you end up using something like Repti-bark you should remove and replace it once every 3-4 months. Take out, disinfect, and wash all decor 1x per month.

    Geckos can benefit from a humid hide to help with shedding, this can be as basic as an empty sour cream container with damp moss or even damp paper towel in it. Just spray the tank like normal when you notice them shedding and check afterwards to make sure there isn't shed stuck around their toes.

    Wash your hands after handling the geckos, their decorations, or anything reptile-related to prevent Salmonella, and you should be fine.

    Also, a good "rule of thumb" to make sure you have enough hiding places in your tank is that if you can always see where your gecko is hiding, you don't have enough stuff! You can post pictures of your setup on the crested gecko specific page on this forum and people can advise you on anything else you need to get.

    Good luck with your gecko!
    0.1 Correlophus ciliatus
    1.0 Phelsuma grandis
    0.1 Testudo horsfieldii

  4. #4
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    Your list sounds good! Yes, the 2-week quarantine is always a good idea, especially if the animal is going to be housed with other animals. Most breeders use 30 days to quarantine, but as long as your gecko is alone, 2 weeks is okay.

    Vinegar is fine for cleaning, you can use a diluted bleach x water combo but be sure to rinse everything out VERY well. You can use paper towel instead of the Repti-carpet, far more cost effective and can be thrown out when it gets gross.

    I would get a low-wattage heat bulb for temperatures under 70... Amazon is a great place to get light bulbs and other supplies. (Especially if you have Prime, then free shipping!)

    Spot clean the tank 1x per week, removing waste, wiping off dirty decor, etc. Change your paper towel 1x per week as well. If you end up using something like Repti-bark you should remove and replace it once every 3-4 months. Take out, disinfect, and wash all decor 1x per month.

    Geckos can benefit from a humid hide to help with shedding, this can be as basic as an empty sour cream container with damp moss or even damp paper towel in it. Just spray the tank like normal when you notice them shedding and check afterwards to make sure there isn't shed stuck around their toes.

    Wash your hands after handling the geckos, their decorations, or anything reptile-related to prevent Salmonella, and you should be fine.

    Also, a good "rule of thumb" to make sure you have enough hiding places in your tank is that if you can always see where your gecko is hiding, you don't have enough stuff! You can post pictures of your setup on the crested gecko specific page on this forum and people can advise you on anything else you need to get.

    Good luck with your gecko!
    0.1 Correlophus ciliatus
    1.0 Phelsuma grandis
    0.1 Testudo horsfieldii
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  5. #5
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    thank you for all the advise but instead of bleach can i use a reptile safe disinfectant or dawn soap and cani stay with the cgd diet as a staple diet
    Last edited by repguy; 11-07-2016 at 06:09 PM.

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    I use vinegar for maintenance cleaning and simple green for "deep" cleaning. the vast majority of what you will be doing is maintenance (i.e., cleaning poop off of fake plants, lol).

    you don't need to blitz disinfect everything in his home, no more than you do in your own home. salmonella (or any other disease) is extremely unlikely, and as revasius says, wash your hands and you'll be fine.
    [I]* Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli *Liasis olivaceous olivaceous * Blaesodactylus boivini * /I]

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    My cresties, leachies and gargoyles regularly get to the low 60s at night in winter, never had a problem with it. During the day, when the furnace is set a bit higher, they warm up a bit, but it's still not as warm as in summer.
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    what is the solution you use or can i use national geographic disinfectant

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    I've had my geckos get to the mid to upper 50s in the winter and they've been fine. They really are easy to care for and yes quarantine is a must especially if he'll be housed remotely close to other reptiles. If you have a reptile vet nearby I suggest you utilize them. I got my last one from Petco and brought a stool sample to the vet and for a small fee they'll run some tests and get you the results.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by repguy
    Heres my item check list

    29 gallon tank or 18x18x24
    Kritter cage large (for quarintene)
    Respashy
    artificial plants
    repti carpet (or paper towels depending on your answer)
    Hide
    Perching spots
    cup feeder
    sprayer
    Thermometer and hygrometer
    A warm welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

    My adult crestie likes his Pangea Complete Diet with Insects. You may not really need a hygrometer. I'd use Eco Earth's coco fiber as the substrate and add a potted sansevieria to boost humidity. The clamp-down ledges are more secure than the ledges that attach with magnets.

    Here's my Crestie Caresheet Summary with additional tips and links to other resources in the posts following the main caresheet. It's great for seeing all at a glance.

    Correlophus ciliatus (crested gecko) Caresheet Summary & Tips......February 2015

    Recently GU member Elliriyanna set up a 18 x 18 x 24 inch enclosure for her juvenile leo Pongo.

    14882133_10207471039750460_8769125404146132089_o.jpg 14902860_10207471040750485_8297182866642803477_o.jpg
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-08-2016 at 08:07 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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