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10-08-2011, 11:56 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rural Ontario, Canada
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I might be getting one - OPINIONS WANTED
Hello, I am back on the site. Around the time I left, I was having trouble with my dial-up connection. A while after, I got my old computer back and a wireless internet connection, so no more internet problems. After that, though, I didn't really have anything to ask in the forums so I didn't return until now. It would be nice if people answered the questions in my other threads but that is not as much a concern right now.
On to the question at hand:
I am in the process of moving my white-lined gecko into a larger enclosure, and the local pet store has some available. When I was looking at them the other day, I noticed that there is a big discount on the enclosures when they come included with a crested gecko. Now, normally I would have avoided this and just gotten the enclosure without the crested gecko, but as it turns out, I have a decent-sized aquarium-style enclosure all ready to use. I would rather not put my white-lined gecko in there because he doesn't like to be handled and he is very fast. If he got loose in the greenhouse, I would never catch him. The exo-terra terrariums would be much better suited for him, which is what I am going to get.
Crested geckos are supposed to be easier to tame and handle, so it may not be as bad an idea to put it in the aquarium-style tank, and the exo-terra terrarium I am referring to is 18x18x24 inches, which is perfect for my white-lined gecko. I figure, if I can put the crested gecko in the aquarium-style tank and my white-lined gecko in the new exo-terra terrarium, I would have two geckos in two adequate enclosures.
The aquarium-style tank is a hexagon-shaped tank so length/depth and width are both going to be the same. It is 17 3/4 inches or 45 centimetres from edge to edge, and 24 & 1/4 inches or 61.5 centimetres tall. I have read the stickied thread in this forum and my tank seems to fit those requirements. It has a few fake plants in it, including a very tall one, so it has lots of cover. I used the tank for my green basilisk when he was younger and it suited him fine. I am just thinking: if I already have mostly everything I need for a crested gecko, and if getting one will make getting a new and better enclosure for my white-lined gecko easier, then why not?
Here are a couple of photos taken of the tank when my green basilisk still lived in it:
So tell me what you think I should do and whether getting the crested gecko is a good idea or not. I won't get the gecko until I hear from someone so there is no rush, but I still want some opinions and I intend to consider them even if they are not in favour of what I am suggesting. Obviously, from reading this post and my signature, you can tell I have some experience and will therefore know what to do if I do get the crested gecko, but again, I still want some other thoughts on the matter before - or if - I get it.
Thanks for reading.
__________________
2.0.0 Leopard geckos (sp. Eublepharis macularius) - "Bahamut" & "Jubjub"
1.0.0 White-lined gecko (sp. Gekko vittatus) - "Pepé"
1.0.1 Fan-toed geckos (sp. Ptyodactylus guttatus) - "Petri" & ???
0.1.0 Fire skink (sp. Riopa fernandii) - "Abuto"
1.0.0 Green basilisk (sp. Basiliscus plumifrons) - "Quetzal"
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10-09-2011, 01:07 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Naples, Florida, USA
Posts: 787
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Looks like a great setup to me!
I would recommend some sticks to climb on and some horizontal perches (to help avoid FTS) but otherwise the way you had it set up before looks perfect for an adult crestie.
If the one you start off with is smaller than about 15g I'd probably keep him/her in something smaller to begin with, however. Kritter Keepers work well and are what I use for hatchlings, and something along the lines of 10gal is a good size for juvies (around 7-15g).
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10-09-2011, 05:29 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NEW JERSEY
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You may have an issue with ventilation in that tank. Cresteds require a humidity cycle. You may have a hard time doing that in that tank. I personally use both screen-acrylic tank. Which allows more air flow. JMO
__________________
" What if the Hokey-Pokey is really what its all about ???? "
0.0.1 Mack Snow Eclipse leopard gecko
0.0.1 Bell Hybino leopard gecko
0.0.1 crested gecko
0.1.0 Great Dane
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10-10-2011, 12:41 AM
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Junior member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rural Ontario, Canada
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Tank modifications
Laura Lee!!!  I know you from Youtube!!! Err...I don't actually know you but I have watched a lot of your videos...you are stolenmilkcrate, right? I subscribed to your channel ( a long time ago)! Yeah, I remember watching your stuff on Youtube before they started asking me to get a Gmail account. I am in the process of getting one but I can't use my acount until then.
Anyhoo...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp
Looks like a great setup to me!
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Thanks! Quetzal liked it but he eventually bent a few of the leaves after sitting on them so much.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp
I would recommend some sticks to climb on and some horizontal perches (to help avoid FTS) but otherwise the way you had it set up before looks perfect for an adult crestie.
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I have some bamboo I can set up around the perimeter that it can climb on but unfortunately I don't have any wooden branches that go all the way to the top. It might be a bit more of a stretch and it might make the tank a bit more crowded, but I will definitely look into doing that. Right now, the tank is still in its old location. I need to move it to a better location before I can actually set it up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp
If the one you start off with is smaller than about 15g I'd probably keep him/her in something smaller to begin with, however. Kritter Keepers work well and are what I use for hatchlings, and something along the lines of 10gal is a good size for juvies (around 7-15g).
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Ah OK. I have a used kritterkeeper that is around a foot long or so, and it seems reasonably high enough. Quetzal can fit into it so I don't know why a baby crestie couldn't. How long should I leave it in there?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doublet74
You may have an issue with ventilation in that tank. Cresteds require a humidity cycle. You may have a hard time doing that in that tank. I personally use both screen-acrylic tank. Which allows more air flow. JMO
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I have a four-foot-tall screen mesh flexarium but I learned elsewhere ( or maybe it was here?) that geckos' toes don't work as well on nylon or acrylic screening as they do on glass. The glass will hold in humidity, too. If I use the flexarium, I will have the same kinds of issues with keeping humidity in as I am currently having with my green basilisk's enclosure. The top is screen, anyway, so if I really need to, I can run a fan in there.
...or is ventilation more important than humidity for crested geckos?
Anyway, I appreciate your opinion. I want as many opinions as I can get, no matter how diverse they are 
__________________
2.0.0 Leopard geckos (sp. Eublepharis macularius) - "Bahamut" & "Jubjub"
1.0.0 White-lined gecko (sp. Gekko vittatus) - "Pepé"
1.0.1 Fan-toed geckos (sp. Ptyodactylus guttatus) - "Petri" & ???
0.1.0 Fire skink (sp. Riopa fernandii) - "Abuto"
1.0.0 Green basilisk (sp. Basiliscus plumifrons) - "Quetzal"
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10-10-2011, 01:37 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: IL
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errr stolenmilkcrate is actually Jen from JB's cresties (a breeder located near Chicago).
Not so sure about the reptibreeze type of enclosures but usually you want to mist your cresties at night then let the tank dry out during the day, too wet will often cause mold to grow. I'll let someone else respond as to say if those cages dry out too fast or not.
If you're worried about the branches being to large you can look at some fake vines to get. Zoo med makes some vines (you'll want thinner ones) that are bendable and pose-able so you can make them fit any tank you choose.
Cresties are a lot of fun and I think you'd be happy with one if you decided to purchase it with the tank. Just remember that younger ones are often jumpy and might be a bit more difficult to handle.
__________________
1.0.0 Eublepharis macularius - Sonata - Tremper Albino
Soon:
1.1.2 Rhacodactylus ciliatus
JBs Cresties, Crested Gecko Girly, Nimmer's Herps
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10-10-2011, 01:54 AM
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Junior member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rural Ontario, Canada
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Whoops
Quote:
Originally Posted by For The Sake Of Revenge
errr stolenmilkcrate is actually Jen from JB's cresties (a breeder located near Chicago).
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Oh  Whoops. I saw Laura type "stolenmilkcrate" somewhere so I thought that was her channel. Sorry lauraleellbp...
Quote:
Originally Posted by For The Sake Of Revenge
Not so sure about the reptibreeze type of enclosures but usually you want to mist your cresties at night then let the tank dry out during the day, too wet will often cause mold to grow. I'll let someone else respond as to say if those cages dry out too fast or not.
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Yeah, I have read that elsewhere, too. I do this with my white-lined gecko but he needs more heat and thus more humidity so I get into the habit of misting in the morning. I will need to remember not to do that with my crested gecko, then.
Quote:
Originally Posted by For The Sake Of Revenge
If you're worried about the branches being to large you can look at some fake vines to get. Zoo med makes some vines (you'll want thinner ones) that are bendable and pose-able so you can make them fit any tank you choose.
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Oh, but I typed that the bamboo was not tall enough... I will look into the vines but I am looking for more climbing materials, not less...
Quote:
Originally Posted by For The Sake Of Revenge
Cresties are a lot of fun and I think you'd be happy with one if you decided to purchase it with the tank. Just remember that younger ones are often jumpy and might be a bit more difficult to handle.
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Yeah, OK. Thanks for the warning. I may not be getting the gecko as soon as I thought but I will keep that in mind. I am thinking that hand-taming a crestie will be a lot like hand-taming a leopard gecko, seeing as both seem to be just as docile.
__________________
2.0.0 Leopard geckos (sp. Eublepharis macularius) - "Bahamut" & "Jubjub"
1.0.0 White-lined gecko (sp. Gekko vittatus) - "Pepé"
1.0.1 Fan-toed geckos (sp. Ptyodactylus guttatus) - "Petri" & ???
0.1.0 Fire skink (sp. Riopa fernandii) - "Abuto"
1.0.0 Green basilisk (sp. Basiliscus plumifrons) - "Quetzal"
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10-10-2011, 11:08 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Naples, Florida, USA
Posts: 787
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Hahaha no, I'm not JB/stolenmilkcrate. She has fantastic Crestie videos and caresheets so I link people to them all the time, though!
I think you CAN make any of the enclosures you are considering work, but some will be more work to maintain the right humidity cycle that others. Basically, you want the humidity up to 80-90% at night while the cresties are more active, and then drying out to 40-50% during the day to avoid mold/mildew and potential respiratory issues.
It always takes a little trial and error with each new setup to see what misting schedule and what you may need inside an enclosure to get the cycle just right. Substrate choices (peat vs paper towels, etc), live potted plants, humid hides, water bowls, and misting schedule all will dramatically impact the humidity cycle.
Set up your enclosure, make sure you have a good digital hygrometer and thermometer, and start misting and experimenting before you get your gecko- that will help you "dial in" what you need.
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10-10-2011, 10:07 PM
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Location: new york
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Your transition between a white line gecko and a crestie should be the most surprising of all.There's such a difference in behavior and personality,just take your time choosing a pet store gecko...
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10-11-2011, 03:58 AM
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Junior member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Rural Ontario, Canada
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Moving the tank around
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp
Hahaha no, I'm not JB/stolenmilkcrate. She has fantastic Crestie videos and caresheets so I link people to them all the time, though! 
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Oh OK. That must have been it, then. I am not sure it makes much difference, though
Quote:
Originally Posted by lauraleellbp
I think you CAN make any of the enclosures you are considering work, but some will be more work to maintain the right humidity cycle that others. Basically, you want the humidity up to 80-90% at night while the cresties are more active, and then drying out to 40-50% during the day to avoid mold/mildew and potential respiratory issues.
It always takes a little trial and error with each new setup to see what misting schedule and what you may need inside an enclosure to get the cycle just right. Substrate choices (peat vs paper towels, etc), live potted plants, humid hides, water bowls, and misting schedule all will dramatically impact the humidity cycle.
Set up your enclosure, make sure you have a good digital hygrometer and thermometer, and start misting and experimenting before you get your gecko- that will help you "dial in" what you need.
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This is a relief. While I could still benefit from more expertise on the matter, I personally think this tank will hold in moisture well enough. I actually need to move it because where it is right now gets very warm at night in the winter when I have the wood stove going. It was OK for the last resident but this time I think I am going to move it farther away. I will need to experiment with the temperatures inside the tank before I settle on a particular place. When you place a light or heat bulb above this tank, the heat gradient goes from the top to the bottom so if I place the tank further away from the woodstove, that lower part should hold in a lot more moisture. I am assuming the gecko will climb higher up when it wants to get warm.
Oh, and what do you think about peat moss? I mean the stuff that is used for plants? I have a big bag of it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shamrock75
Your transition between a white line gecko and a crestie should be the most surprising of all.There's such a difference in behavior and personality,just take your time choosing a pet store gecko...
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Yeah, you got that right. I am hoping my crestie won't maul my hand whenever I try to pick it up. I do plan to look at all of the crested geckos they have available, though. My decision will be as informed as I can make it with what they have.
__________________
2.0.0 Leopard geckos (sp. Eublepharis macularius) - "Bahamut" & "Jubjub"
1.0.0 White-lined gecko (sp. Gekko vittatus) - "Pepé"
1.0.1 Fan-toed geckos (sp. Ptyodactylus guttatus) - "Petri" & ???
0.1.0 Fire skink (sp. Riopa fernandii) - "Abuto"
1.0.0 Green basilisk (sp. Basiliscus plumifrons) - "Quetzal"
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10-11-2011, 08:31 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Naples, Florida, USA
Posts: 787
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Many people use peat moss because it's small so reduces the risk of impaction should your crestie accidentally eat some. I would not use it with small juvies, and would definitely plan to start your gecko off at first on paper towels, however- as paper towels are much easier to monitor for poop. Crested geckos often go on hunger strikes when subjected to big changes (like new homes), so monitoring for poop is important and the best way to check that they are eating.
You'll want to be careful that the enclosure never gets up past 85F or below 60F. In the 70s is ideal.
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