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07-05-2011, 10:48 AM
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Lazy Gecko Shedding problem
Echo is having a problem shedding for the 2nd time in a row!
Humidity is 80%, there are plenty of things for him to rub against.
He just doesn't seem bothered to remove the skin. It's not coming off in one piece but in lots of little ones. I have had to pull a piece off and have been trying to coax him a little but to no avail.
He also just seems very lazy in general. He will run away if you try to intefere with him too much and is also happy to chase and grab food, but in general he just sits in one place doing nothing!
If it isn't bothering him, should I be letting it bother me?!
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07-06-2011, 01:58 AM
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Can you go in to detail how you are keeping the gecko? The more detailed the better.
__________________
Maureen
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Working with various geckos from the genera: Ebenavia, Lepidodactylus, Lygodactylus, Paroedura, Phelsuma and Sphaerodactylus
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07-06-2011, 02:53 AM
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Right!
He is in a 60 x 45 x 45 tank
substrate is stones and "jungle earth"
inside are a few fake vines that are stuck to the sides
also sanseviera, some bamboo, and some rocks
2 UVB lights at the top
humidity is normally kept at 60-70% but as soon as he went that creamy colour we upped it to 85%
temperature is 27 celsius at a low point and 32 celsius under the lamp
we cover the tank at night because days are long here
he is fed crickets or meal worms daily dusted with vitamins and calcium
occasionally he gets a bit of fruit mixed with vitamins and water
When we got him he was a couple of months old, but had just been attacked by cat and had visible scars around his neck. He is probably about 4-6 months old now. I have been able to get close enough to remove skin without him running away and he seems to let me do it. The only thing I noticed was that at one point when I was applying a little pressure on his back he started vibrating!
Recently he doesn't appear to be too sticky and has made several failed jumps from a plant to a glass wall. He just bounces off!
He is in a room with us which can be a little noisy, but we try to keep it down.
One thing I have noticed recently is the calcium build up on the walls from all the water evaporating (our water here is very calcium rich). I was thinking that maybe he can't climb things because of the layer of calcium everywhere.
Let me know if you need other info ...
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07-06-2011, 04:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo
Right!
He is in a 60 x 45 x 45 tank
substrate is stones and "jungle earth"
inside are a few fake vines that are stuck to the sides
also sanseviera, some bamboo, and some rocks
2 UVB lights at the top
humidity is normally kept at 60-70% but as soon as he went that creamy colour we upped it to 85%
temperature is 27 celsius at a low point and 32 celsius under the lamp
we cover the tank at night because days are long here
he is fed crickets or meal worms daily dusted with vitamins and calcium
occasionally he gets a bit of fruit mixed with vitamins and water
When we got him he was a couple of months old, but had just been attacked by cat and had visible scars around his neck. He is probably about 4-6 months old now. I have been able to get close enough to remove skin without him running away and he seems to let me do it. The only thing I noticed was that at one point when I was applying a little pressure on his back he started vibrating!
Recently he doesn't appear to be too sticky and has made several failed jumps from a plant to a glass wall. He just bounces off!
He is in a room with us which can be a little noisy, but we try to keep it down.
One thing I have noticed recently is the calcium build up on the walls from all the water evaporating (our water here is very calcium rich). I was thinking that maybe he can't climb things because of the layer of calcium everywhere.
Let me know if you need other info ...
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Temps and humidity levels seem to be in good condition. Sometimes despite keeping P. grandis in the proper conditions they still have the occasional shed issues. What you can do to help combat this is do as you have done by raising the humidity once you notice the gecko will shed. If this does not help try playing the gecko in to a humid box for an hour. This can be done via placing a wet paper towel in to a box then placing the gecko in it next to a warm location to create a good amount of humidity.
Most commonly stuck shed gets itself good on toes causing climbing issues. It would also be a good idea to clean some of the calcium deposits off the walls in general.
One thing that concerns me is the combo of vitamins and calcium on the same day. Can you tell me the brand of vitamin and calcium you are using?
__________________
Maureen
--
Working with various geckos from the genera: Ebenavia, Lepidodactylus, Lygodactylus, Paroedura, Phelsuma and Sphaerodactylus
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07-06-2011, 04:30 AM
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I've started using distilled water and will clean the tank out thoroughly in a few days. I might also take the opportunity to put the Gecko into a humidity box.
We are still using the vitamins and calcium given to us by the old owner.
Having said that we are about to run out ... what would be the best to buy and the best way to give it to him?
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07-06-2011, 12:00 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Münster, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo
I've started using distilled water and will clean the tank out thoroughly in a few days. I might also take the opportunity to put the Gecko into a humidity box.
We are still using the vitamins and calcium given to us by the old owner.
Having said that we are about to run out ... what would be the best to buy and the best way to give it to him?
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If you are not sure on the brand, I would recommend using the vitamins separately as most companies design their vitamins to be used separate. Some recommend the same day, but only prior to feeding you should mix them.
When mixing supplements normally you run in to the risk of one or more ingredients canceling others out fully or weakening (underdose) or one becoming too strong leading to an overdose over time. Some are designed to be used together the same day, but the vast majority are not.
Also I am not sure how long you have had the vitamins, but it is recommended to replace them every 6 months, as they still breakdown overtime on their own.
Herpetal Complete-T is a good general vitamin. Korvimin ZVT+Reptile (available through vets) is another. Herpetal Mineral + D3 is a good form of calcium if your gecko does not spend time outside and you are using a UVB bulb around 5-6%. If you use a higher percentage UVB bulb 8% or higher I would simply recommend using Herpetal Mineral without D3.
I should stress that due to the high phosphorus levels in crickets, you should always dust with calcium when feeding these, but do not offer calcium too much weekly or it could lead to Metabolic Bone Disease!
You will also want to get a bit more of a variety in your Geckos diet. I know it is hard to find prey for larger geckos like grandis, but it is possible.
If you have anymore questions, do not hesitate to reply. 
__________________
Maureen
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Working with various geckos from the genera: Ebenavia, Lepidodactylus, Lygodactylus, Paroedura, Phelsuma and Sphaerodactylus
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07-07-2011, 08:02 AM
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Thank you for this information.
Do you have any advice as to how we should remove the skin that he is not shedding?
Everything seems right with his home, just that he doesn't seem interested in shedding his skin!
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07-07-2011, 08:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo
Thank you for this information.
Do you have any advice as to how we should remove the skin that he is not shedding?
Everything seems right with his home, just that he doesn't seem interested in shedding his skin!
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What I do for skin that the animal is not taking off, is first placing them in a humid box for an hour. Next I gently try and remove any loose shed with a pair of tweezers without holding the animal. If the animal becomes fussy I gently pick it up and hold on to it very lightly so as to not tear any skin. Once I have the animal in my hand and relaxed I begin trying to remove more shed. Any shed that will come off with the tweezers will come off right away. If a piece does not come off easily I place the gecko back in the box and try again. I will not ever make more than two attempts in a day and will usually wait a day or two in between to not stress the animal out. If I notice that a piece of shed must come off ASAP only then will I try and make a few attempts in a day.
Also I never attempt to get shed off the undersides of the toes with tweezers. If there is a good bit stuck there the gecko will get a shallow bath for an hour while in a box.
I forgot to ask btw. Which UVB lamps are you using and how long have they been in use?
__________________
Maureen
--
Working with various geckos from the genera: Ebenavia, Lepidodactylus, Lygodactylus, Paroedura, Phelsuma and Sphaerodactylus
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07-07-2011, 08:44 AM
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There are 2 bulbs at the top of his tank ...
1 is 26 watt UVB 5.0 and the other is a 13 watt UVB 5.0 they are both about 2 months old.
Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by Echo; 07-07-2011 at 08:48 AM..
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07-09-2011, 04:37 AM
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Münster, Germany
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Echo
There are 2 bulbs at the top of his tank ...
1 is 26 watt UVB 5.0 and the other is a 13 watt UVB 5.0 they are both about 2 months old.
Thanks again for all the help!
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Hi,
Normally it is recommended to use a UVB bulb and a bulb rated at daylight color. This combo makes for more natural lighting for the animal. I would recommend replacing the one 13 watt bulb for a 2.0 bulb in equal wattage.
__________________
Maureen
--
Working with various geckos from the genera: Ebenavia, Lepidodactylus, Lygodactylus, Paroedura, Phelsuma and Sphaerodactylus
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