Phelsuma rack

lauraleellbp · #1 10-26-2011, 01:56 PM

My dad helped me build a rack last week for my 18x18x24 vivs (since my Crestie racks are only 14" deep, I needed something much deeper and more sturdy for the Phelsuma). I brought it home on Monday and just got it set up today- I'm quite happy with how it's working out so far! The dimensions are 24" deep x 60" long x 80" tall. Supports are 2x4s and the shelves are 3/4" plywood (covered in contact paper for a little additional moisture resistance).

The contact paper got a bit messed up during 3 hours in the bed of my pickup truck LOL

And here it is with the vivs. I can't wait to start planting them all and filling them with geckos!

And can't forget my Moral Support, either.

"Are you done yet? Can you pet me now?"

Yoshi'smom · #2 10-26-2011, 04:02 PM

Nice Laura!! I'm jelly! You should see my reptile room! It's a zoo (somewhat litteraly)! Tanks everywhere- Not really much organization!!

windeindoiel · #3 10-26-2011, 05:46 PM

Cool setup! I have something similar in the works.

daggekko · #4 10-26-2011, 06:30 PM

Nice! Yours looks much sturdier than mine

. With that many tanks for that many(hopefully Phelsuma!!) geckos you might need to go ahead and make a second rack

lauraleellbp · #5 10-26-2011, 06:57 PM

Thanks everyone!

I'm already working through plans in my head to convert the walk-in closet in my office into hatchling Phelsuma racks LOL

Hannibal · #6 10-26-2011, 07:39 PM

I like! We use the same timers as your do

lauraleellbp · #7 10-26-2011, 08:24 PM

Yeah I like those dual outlet timers. $10 at Home Depot.

I'm still thinking through my outlet/power strip design. Probably going to attach some power strips on the bottom of the middle shelf.

Hannibal · #8 10-26-2011, 08:51 PM

What I did was plugged the timer into the wall outlet and then the power strip into it. Since my racks are wire, I used zip-ties to attach the power strip to the under side of the rack in the back so all the light cords hang behind the enclosures. Since I use the florescent strip lighting for the gargs, I was able to attach them to the under side of the racks with zip-ties so it's easier for me to move an enclosure in/out of the spot without messing with the lights. Since your shelves are made out of wood, you might be able to attach a bar (or a long piece of 1x1 wood) to the under side of the shelves in the center so you can clamp the lights onto that to make it easier to move an enclosure in/out of the spot.

lauraleellbp · #9 10-26-2011, 09:21 PM

Yeah, I've been debating on how I want to suspend the lights too. I bought one of those halogen puck lights from HD a few weeks back but then quit using it b/c it got way too hot just sitting on top of the enclosure. But I may try those again since they'd be about a foot off the top...? I designed this rack with plenty of room on each shelf so I can play with heights with the lighting.

Even the 50 watt basking bulbs get the tanks too hot when both are on at the same time- right now I've got the heat bulbs on separate staggered timers. So as things currently stand, running an outlet to a single timer would not work.

I will most likely be installing some T5 or T5HO flourescent strips for plant lighting. I may just keep things simple and go with a single 48" length, though it will leave 6" unlit at either end of the rack... and I'll need to install a "baffle" to keep the lighting from blinding me LOL

daggekko · #10 10-27-2011, 08:13 AM

I put the timers on the wall outlet and then attach the power strip to them. But then again on my rack right now there are 7 lamps currently in use and when complete will have 15. That would be way too many timers

I used zip ties to hold my power strip to my rack. And I haven't routed the upper set of wires yet, but the middle row the wires are all routed and held in line with each other so I can't really see them when looking at the geckos. I used screw in hooks with a zip tie holding the wire. I wanted to get screw in eyes(I can't think what they are actually called-basically a ring with a threaded shaft) but I didn't want to go to the store when I was doing all of that!

I like the suggestions about using the 1x1 wood to elevate the lamps. The only thing I would suggest is using a screw to make sure if the clamp slips off the light doesn't fall. I don't like using clamp lights for that reason.

Get some dimmers for those halogen puck lights. That should help solve the too hot problem. Also, from what I've been told it will make the bulb last longer too.

"baffle" is an excellent idea. I still need to do something to block the lights off so when I am looking or taking pictures the light isn't so blinding. I was thinking I might get some fabric and rivet some snaps to it and the light fixture. I am having problems with slight over heating though. Anyone use any sort of fans to blow heat away from the tops of racks?