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Thread: Grandis help!

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by AXG View Post
    Is there any way that I can just use compact bulbs instead of the tubes so that I don't have to pay for a whole new fixture? Or do you only recommend using the tubes?
    I only have experience using UVB via Zoo Med's Reptisun tubes in those Slimline fixtures.

    Phone Arcadia Lighting. Tell them your situation. Maybe they have a reliable UVB bulb that would work for your grandis.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"
    Click:
    Leo Care Sheet post 142 (use left side numbers): Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L. kimhowelli) ~ (P. tigrinus)

  2. #12
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    I just purchased the new fixture and set it up but this light is much less intense than the previous one that I had. You are sure this is all that is need?

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    You're welcome.

    Don't use the tube that comes with the fixture. Switch it out for a Zoo Med's Reptisun 10.0 UVB. Big Apple Herps beat prices on other stores when I ordered last. I stocked up with 12!

    Once a grandis starts hanging out on the ground, quick action needs to be taken!

    Did you read all the way through the thread I linked in post 5? Basking temps considerably higher than 80 F are definitely recommended!

    I like those Slimline fixtures. I have 4.
    Quote Originally Posted by AXG View Post
    I just purchased the new fixture and set it up but this light is much less intense than the previous one that I had. You are sure this is all that is need?
    See below.

    Excellent on the Slimline fixture! Do NOT use the T8 fluorescent tube that came with it. It does NOT meet the UVB needs of your grandis!!!

    I don't know what's the best way to provide the basking temps your grandis needs!

    The health of your P. grandis is important to me too. Sometimes, even with the best intentions, internet communication breaks down. For instance, I don't know whether you see my entire message if you check GU messages by cell phone.

    Your grandis needs a Zoo Med T8 10.0 fluorescent tube for your new Slimline. The tube that comes with the Slimline is inadequate for your grandis' needs.

    Here's a link to the tube you need: Zoo Med Laboratories, Inc.

    • Emits UVB a full 20"/51cm from the surface of the lamp to prevent or reverse Metabolic Bone Disease. (Compared to 12"/30cm on the ReptiSun® 5.0). Optimal for use with larger terrariums where greater than 12" of UVB penetration is needed. The ReptiSun® 10.0 is also recommended for use above screen covers which can filter out up to 50% of the UVB wavelengths.
    • 10% UVB
    • 30% UVA
    • High quality bulbs made in Germany.



    PS: This thread is extremely informative.

    Click: Need help!
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-15-2017 at 04:57 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"
    Click:
    Leo Care Sheet post 142 (use left side numbers): Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L. kimhowelli) ~ (P. tigrinus)

  4. #14
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    There are compacts that will work - Arcadia do a good range, I've use them on 30cm tanks with the new style arcadia hood and the 30cm Exo hoods - what fitting do you have the UVB in at the minute? Is it a dome, Exo hood etc?

    Unfortunately the arcadia compacts are longer than the Exo's so won't fit in the Exo hoods

    Personally I stick with Arcadia as I've found they're the best (either that or one of my local reptile shops does their own brand which is cheaper and not far away)

    In the tank I would suggest he also needs better horizontal perches near the top that go from side to side all the way accross the tank for him to shuttle accross in and out of the basking spot/UVB - ideally some decent size bamboo with some holes cut in it to hide if he/she sees a threat; In tank that size I generally have 3 that go side to side about 10cm from the top (if you want a photo or 2 of how I've got them setup let me know).

    He is definiltey well hydrated isn't he? I noticed from the photos you have a fogger - that won't necessarily be enough.

    Final question - what are you feeding him, how often and what are you gut loading/supplementing with?
    2.1.7 L williamsi
    3.7.8 P klemmeri
    2.3.1 P quadriocellata
    2.2 P lineata
    2.2.4 P laticauda
    1.1.1 S torrei
    2.3.4 P pasteuri
    0.1.0 P cepediana
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    When I purchased the new Slimline fixture I also bought the ZooMed 10.0 UVB Tube. I replaced it with the old light however, the basking temperatures still don't seem to be high enough and look to be even lower than they were before... Maybe my thermometer just isn't placed correctly?

    I also purchased some bamboo tubes at around the same time and was going to add them to the Viv so yes, a few pictures would be of great help!

    As for food and water... I have been spraying his tank twice a day every day, once in the morning and once in the evening to make sure that he is drinking. I also have a humidifier that I adjust accordingly. I have been feeding him everyday or every other day switching between Repashy and Super worms. I have been dusting the Super worms with calcium and a day gecko diet from ZooMed. He doesn't always eat every day or even every other day but i assume that can be normally observed in geckos.

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    I would try and get him onto crickets personally - they're very much the staple of the day gecko diet; all of my phelsuma are on crickets with the occasional mealworm or waxworm - crickets move quicker and will make him hunt for them which is better.

    He won't eat every day - I feed pangea twice a week and crickets twice a week - about 5 crickets per adult gecko (although to an extent it does decide on the size of the adult gecko!) e.g. one of my male pea****s is a lot bigger than the others so he gets a couple more - common sense comes into it really and you'll get to know your gecko over time

    I always mix some calcium and multivitamin in with the pangea - that helps to get some additional calcium in and vitamins into them.

    How's he doing now?

    See the attached photos for some ideas - they're all of different tanks, but as you'll see they're all much of a muchness setup wise - any questions let me know

    Gecko Tank 1.jpg
    Gecko Tank 2.jpg
    Gecko Tank 3.jpg
    Gecko Tank 4.jpg
    Gecko Tank 5.jpg
    Gecko Tank 6.jpg

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