Directions ("servings"): 12 dusted crickets (i assume roaches work too) per 71 grams of body weight per week

My gecko is 94 grams. This would mean he needs 1.3 "servings" a week or 15.6 dusted feeders with plain calcium.

Directions ("servings"): 12 dusted crickets (i assume roaches work too) per 71 grams of body weight per week

My gecko is 94 grams. This would mean he needs 1.3 "servings" a week or 15.6 dusted feeders with calcium and D3 supplement - however mine gets UVB and so only gets D3 once a month.

Directions ("servings"): 12 dusted crickets (i assume roaches work too) per 71 grams of body weight per week

My gecko is 94 grams. This would mean he needs 1.3 "servings" a week or 15.6 dusted feeders with reptivite, which has a fair amount of calcium in it.

So, for my sub-adult gecko (13 months old) who is on 4 feedings a week, he would have to consume 46.8 insects a week...or 11.7 feeders per feeding. In reality he eats between 4 and 8 dubia, 4-6 hornworms, 5-10 mealworms, or 10-20 phoenix worms

Monday- no supplements

Wednesday- Plain Calcium

Friday- Reptivite

Saturday- no supplements

and D3 on the first of every month.

My question is this:

Since all three supplements include similar calcium concentrations and only the vitamins include phosphorus then rotating the supplement types throughout the week is the same as what the directions indicate. Considering all supplements as a "general single supplement" means that of the 15-30 insects he eats a week, only 12 of them total need meds on them no matter which version of the powder it is, which is what the exotic vet also recommended.

Now, on to my second musing...How do you know that adding calcium to insects is getting the proper 2:1 ratio? What is the math behind it?

Per the feeder insect nutrition chart dubia roaches are 1:3.25 ca : p ratio. The amounts of both are in mg/kg of insect. So how do know that a light dusting of calcium on the bugs change that 1 unit calcium to 6.5 units of calcium? (total ratio of 6.5:3.25 or 2:1)

Just trying to figure out how / why dusting works when it seems so incredibly unlikely that random unmeasured dusting of supplements actually manage to somehow work. I'm used to calculating medicines and nutrition down to the 10th of an ml...giving an amount of an antibiotic that just "looks right" would either result in under or over dose, but would likely not just successfully treat the infection without also causing other side effects.

This hurts my brain and maybe I should just accept that it works and not question it... ]]>

My 9 month old female leo has stopped eating recently, been going on for about a week now. Shes in a 30gal tank with paper towel substright has access to a calcium dish and I feed her every other day. I also dust her food rotating between calcium with d3 and vitamins. Shes access to a warm hide, moist hide and cold hide and an extra. She has a heatmat that covers her moist and hot hide thats set to 32 degrees which I check every day. She also has a water dish which is swapped out every day.

I have been feeding her primarily on crickets with occasional wax worms but shes refusing both at the moment.

Shes pooping still (only little bits) and doesn't seem to have any stuck shed.

I have noticed her behaviour has changed this week because normally shes very shy but apparently not any more. She now climbs onto my hand when I put it near her and shes wandering a lot more then usual. I have checked to see if she is ovulating but I can't see anything on her belly.

Im going to take her to a vet I think because I cant seem to think of something that would make her really friendly and stop eating suddenly.

Any ideas why she might have stopped?

EDIT: She weighs 74 grams ]]>