[Nathan Hall]

Gargoyle Gecko (Rhacodactylus auriculatus Bavay, 1869 ) Care Sheet


Size: 90 to 125 mm (SVL)

Distribution: southern region of Grande Terre, which is the main island of New Caledonia

Description: The color and body pattern of this species is variable, but it is usually a pale to dark brown with a striped, mottled, or banded pattern. Several color and pattern morphs are now available to hobbyists, including orange-blotched and red-striped.

Sexing: Males develop large hemipenal bulges, enlarged cloacal spurs, and preanal pores. Female have a slight post-anal bulge. Rhacodactylus auriculatus become sexually mature at about 12-16 months of age.

Habitat: Gargoyle geckos are generally found on the lower levels of tree trunks and scrub-vegetation. This species is found closer to the ground than any other species of Rhacodactylus and can be considered semi-arboreal.

Longevity: They can live 10 or more years in captivity.

Temperature: This species can be maintained at 25-28°C (77-82°F) during the day and 22-24°C (72-75°F) at night. Gravid females should be exposed to a hot spot that reaches 29°C (85°F) during the breeding season.

Diet: R. auriculatus will eat insects, mashed fruit, and baby food. Insects should be dusted with a good calcium and vitamin/mineral supplement. A small amount of calcium can be added to mashed fruit and baby food. I've noticed that juveniles tend to shy away from baby food and mashed fruit that has an excessive amount of added calcium and vitamins.

Housing: An adult pair can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium with a screen lid. Since I have a relatively large collection of geckos, I maintain this species in a simple set-up for ease of cleaning. I use paper towels as the substrate, and I mist the cage every other evening. For naturalistic set-ups, one can use peat, coconut fiber, or soil at a suitable depth. There are large pieces of cork bark flats and tubes for climbing, inverted plastic catch basins for shelter, a large nest box with moist coconut fiber (not needed if a deep substrate is available), and a water dish. Live plants make great additions to any gargoyle set-up. A 15-watt incandescent bulb provides heat, and each enclosure has a compact fluorescent fixture.

Breeding: Prior to the breeding season, I drop the temperature in the enclosure to 20-22°C (68-72°F) during the day and 18°C (65°F) at night for a couple of months. Reducing the photoperiod according to the natural photoperiod further conditions this species for the breeding season. Breeding usually occurs from March to September. Female R. auriculatus produce two soft-shelled eggs every 4-8 weeks. They will lay about 4-5 clutches in a season.

Incubation: The eggs should be incubated in a container with moist vermiculite or perlite. At a temperature of 26-28°C (78-82°F), the eggs should hatch in 50 to 70 days.

Juveniles: I keep all of the juveniles singly until they reach sexual maturity. I keep them in “Kritter Keepers” with a paper towel substrate. There are pieces of cork bark for climbing, an inverted plastic catch basin for shelter, and a small water dish. The cage is misted every other day.

Link to care sheet with photos:
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/care_r.auriculatus.htm

[Kriket7590]

What kind of live plants are suitable and safe to use in a gargoyles terrarium?

[The Mega Inferno]

link is broken

[Leif]

A natural vivarium with plants endemic to New Caledonia is nearly impossible as these plants grow too large for a vivarium. For example, the Bird's Nest Fern (Asplenium nidus) grows to be 4 ft. If you do choose to go with live plants in your Gargoyle's vivarium then your common tropical plants can be chosen and Black Jungle is the best supplier I have found. Below is another Care Sheet I put together for an additional reference.

Gargoyle Gecko Care Sheet

[shaelikestaquitos]

Just a quick question... Why do the juveniles have to stay in a smaller tank before growing into adult size? Wouldn't it save money to just get the biggest tank first?

[Leif]

There are a lot of problems that result from using an oversize enclosure with this genus. The biggest one deals with eating. There are two main concerns with a large cage and a hatchling to juvenile -- the ability to hold humidity which is displaced faster in a large enclosure and the sense of security. A gecko that is not comfortable in the enclosure is less apt to eat. Temperature and humidity plays a big role with Rhacodactylus geckos and how much food they eat. So by using three cage sizes for the 3 stages of growth (Hatchling-Juvenile-Adult) you eliminate two of the common problems that result in Metabolic Bone Disease and Floppy Tail Syndrome. Hope this helps.

Should also note that Gargoyle Geckos should be housed individually at these ages.

[Hardknox]

The care sheet looks fine all around, not really a lot of NEW information from the common care sheet which can be found. The bit about ramping temperatures for gravid females is new to me but I do not keep this particular species, though I will be fixing that soon at the national breeders expo. However I will make one comment, I think making no mention at all about products such as Allen Repashy's Crested Gecko Diet is a huge mistake in any care sheet with any rhac species. For the average keepers and for highly experienced keepers there are few "better" diets for any gecko that will eat CGD, as a general rule of thumb.

[shaelikestaquitos]

Originally Posted by Leif

There are a lot of problems that result from using an oversize enclosure with this genus. The biggest one deals with eating. There are two main concerns with a large cage and a hatchling to juvenile -- the ability to hold humidity which is displaced faster in a large enclosure and the sense of security. A gecko that is not comfortable in the enclosure is less apt to eat. Temperature and humidity plays a big role with Rhacodactylus geckos and how much food they eat. So by using three cage sizes for the 3 stages of growth (Hatchling-Juvenile-Adult) you eliminate two of the common problems that result in Metabolic Bone Disease and Floppy Tail Syndrome. Hope this helps.

Should also note that Gargoyle Geckos should be housed individually at these ages.

That clears things up a lot. Thank you ^_^ Just learning as much as I can about gargs before I get one myself

[rhino43grr]

Originally Posted by Hardknox

The care sheet looks fine all around, not really a lot of NEW information from the common care sheet which can be found. The bit about ramping temperatures for gravid females is new to me but I do not keep this particular species, though I will be fixing that soon at the national breeders expo. However I will make one comment, I think making no mention at all about products such as Allen Repashy's Crested Gecko Diet is a huge mistake in any care sheet with any rhac species. For the average keepers and for highly experienced keepers there are few "better" diets for any gecko that will eat CGD, as a general rule of thumb.

the initial post is from 2006...

it will probably be updated soon: Updating Care Sheets