Lygodactylus Williamsi
Scientific chart
Accepted scientific name: Lygodactylus williamsi LOVERIDGE 1952 (accepted name)
Common name: Williams' Dwarf Gecko
Classification: AnimaliaPhylum ChordataClass ReptiliaOrder Squamata Family
Gekkonidae Genus: Lygodactylus
Distribution: Tanzania
Introduction
In the wild these blue green arboreal dwarf gecko's can only be found in a small tropical forest in Tanzania.
They have been introduced into the hobbyist community recently due to deforestication of their natural habitat but these animals are still rare to get.
Due to intensive breeding in europe the number of CB specimens is growing but it still will take a while before they will be seen on the market more often.
I also expect strict laws in the near future to protect these little blue gems.
Size: 6- 10cm (2,5-4”)
Feeding: fruit flies, small crickets (calcium & vitamin dusted),new born roaches (white ones), phelsuma fruit & honey mixture (mixed fruit, fruit baby food, honey, vitamins)
Environment/housing: Eastern-Tanzania tropical forest
A vertical orientated tropical terrarium with lots of branches and plants.
A small/ medium sized vivarium is large enough for a pair or trio.
Temperature & humidity: 25-29°C/78-85°F and a dry, sunny place for basking. 50–80% RHV (misting provides drinking water)
UV lighting should be provided
Breeding: In a couple of weeks clutches of 2 to 4.eggs get pasted somewhere high in the enclosure. Conditions for the eggs: humid, no direct water on the eggs and temperature of 26 to 30 degrees Celsius.
No need for incubation, best to leave the eggs in the enclosure.
The parents are often not so protective of their Young and eggs so cover them with deli cup or something similar. Remove the young when hatched to another enclosure or they will become a snack for the parents.
Young animals need a lot of calcium and UV so provide them powdered fruit flies & pinheads
After 7 months they reach sexual maturity.
Sexing: dominant males have a beautiful blue color, females a copperish coloration with some dark green.
Young males or surpressed males will also be greenish like the females so the best way to sex them is to check for hemipenises bulges and femoral pores. Males often will have a full black beard while females have a lighter beard that is divided in lines.
Both sexes have a orange and yellow underside wich is as spectacular as their blue colors.
A trio with one young male and two females
Males are territorial, so keep them separated or keep them in a large enclosure with lots of hiding places to minimize encounters.
They will puff their throats, color their beards darker and swing their heads from side to side. This is followed by face licking or a short chase.
Deseases/illness:
It's important to check for mites with imports.
So put them in quarantine for a while and threat the for mites if necessary before introducing them to their enclosure.
When working with young animals shedding can be a difficult matter.
My young male had a retained shed on one flank of his body although he had a regular bath at that time (he just finished his treatment for mites) and high humidity in the cage.
So if you see a dark spot that doesn't belong, give it a warm bath and help his shed with tweezers.
The scales underneath the bad shed will be less developed so it's better to desinfect it a couple of times to keep it from getting infected. (procedure was confirmed by a local vet)
Feel free to correct or add information
If you have trouble to find in depth information
try to find info on other Lygodactylus species or even phelsuma klemmeri
Cheers
Lygodactylus Williamsi
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