Lygodactylus Williamsi

['stoph]

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Lygodactylus Williamsi



Scientific chart
Accepted scientific name: Lygodactylus williamsi LOVERIDGE 1952 (accepted name)
Common name: Williams' Dwarf Gecko
Classification: AnimaliaPhylum ChordataClass ReptiliaOrder Squamata Family
Gekkonidae Genus: Lygodactylus
Distribution: Tanzania

Introduction
In the wild these blue green arboreal dwarf gecko's can only be found in a small tropical forest in Tanzania.
They have been introduced into the hobbyist community recently due to deforestication of their natural habitat but these animals are still rare to get.
Due to intensive breeding in europe the number of CB specimens is growing but it still will take a while before they will be seen on the market more often.
I also expect strict laws in the near future to protect these little blue gems.

Size: 6- 10cm (2,5-4”)

Feeding: fruit flies, small crickets (calcium & vitamin dusted),new born roaches (white ones), phelsuma fruit & honey mixture (mixed fruit, fruit baby food, honey, vitamins)

Environment/housing: Eastern-Tanzania tropical forest
A vertical orientated tropical terrarium with lots of branches and plants.
A small/ medium sized vivarium is large enough for a pair or trio.

Temperature & humidity: 25-29°C/78-85°F and a dry, sunny place for basking. 50–80% RHV (misting provides drinking water)
UV lighting should be provided

Breeding: In a couple of weeks clutches of 2 to 4.eggs get pasted somewhere high in the enclosure. Conditions for the eggs: humid, no direct water on the eggs and temperature of 26 to 30 degrees Celsius.
No need for incubation, best to leave the eggs in the enclosure.
The parents are often not so protective of their Young and eggs so cover them with deli cup or something similar. Remove the young when hatched to another enclosure or they will become a snack for the parents.

Young animals need a lot of calcium and UV so provide them powdered fruit flies & pinheads
After 7 months they reach sexual maturity.

Sexing: dominant males have a beautiful blue color, females a copperish coloration with some dark green.
Young males or surpressed males will also be greenish like the females so the best way to sex them is to check for hemipenises bulges and femoral pores. Males often will have a full black beard while females have a lighter beard that is divided in lines.
Both sexes have a orange and yellow underside wich is as spectacular as their blue colors.

A trio with one young male and two females


Males are territorial, so keep them separated or keep them in a large enclosure with lots of hiding places to minimize encounters.
They will puff their throats, color their beards darker and swing their heads from side to side. This is followed by face licking or a short chase.

Deseases/illness:
It's important to check for mites with imports.
So put them in quarantine for a while and threat the for mites if necessary before introducing them to their enclosure.

When working with young animals shedding can be a difficult matter.
My young male had a retained shed on one flank of his body although he had a regular bath at that time (he just finished his treatment for mites) and high humidity in the cage.

So if you see a dark spot that doesn't belong, give it a warm bath and help his shed with tweezers.
The scales underneath the bad shed will be less developed so it's better to desinfect it a couple of times to keep it from getting infected. (procedure was confirmed by a local vet)


Feel free to correct or add information
If you have trouble to find in depth information
try to find info on other Lygodactylus species or even phelsuma klemmeri



Cheers

[daygecko]

Do you have any information as to how to induce mating. I saw my pair mating a couple of months ago, but no eggs were laid. I haven't spotted any mating since.
Thanks
Paul

['stoph]

The fact you don't see it doesn't mean it doesn't happen.
Give them a humid warm space at the top of the terrarium, avoid stress and let them do their thing.

[JonDL]

What is the best treatment for mites on the Lygodactylus? My male williamsi that came in yesterday had a few mites on his arm. Thank you.

-Jon DeLong

['stoph]

I removed most of the mites with this tool and a magnifying glass only the ones between the toes are really hard to remove this way.


Put the reptile in a warm bath for 20 min. 3 times a day (don't drown your pet).
You'll probably see little red dots floating in the water afterwards.

Vasoline,mineral oil, reptile relief, Mite off are some of the products used to suffocate the mites. Just put some of the product on the mites with a cotton bud or put some of the product on a cloth and gently wrap your reptile in it.

This way you should be able to remove the mites within 2 days.

I've heard also of a new product in liquid form, just put a drop on the back of your reptile and the mites should go away. (same principal as cat anti flea drops i guess)

Places mites love to hide in-> armpits, between the toes, throat, belly and in the corners of the eyes.

[daygecko]

How big are the mites? I have looked at my pair and am hoping they arn't carrying any. If mine did have some i doubt id be able to catch and hold them- they are very skittish.

['stoph]

How big are the mites?

like a grain of sand

If they are too skittish you still can give them a nice bath.

Search for small red dots.




when you like closely this one has small red dots around the front arm as well
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...3&d=1190292279

If you need more info there are a couple of threads on mites in the pest/disease subforum.

[dinoschiff]

Stoph,
thanks for the care sheet.

About spotting mites, they are so small that I found the best way is to make some good high quality digital pictures through the glass and then enlarge them with the computer: becomes very easy to see smal red spots and no stres on the animals.

Ciao, Dino

[jpg]

What are the incubation times for these guys ?

['stoph]

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2-3 months