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  1. #101
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    Smile #99---Mealworm & Superworm Tips......acpart, Hilde, & swisswiss -- April 2021


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    Click: Mealworm Breeding [the info begins on post 2 by gbhil]

    Another valuable mealworm thread: Mealworms

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    If you are setting up mealworm bins to breed them, don't use Timberline's vita-bugs "giant mealworms". Those giant mealworms have been hormonally treated and are infertile!
    I keep my mealworms on a bed of ground Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed in a 6 quart Sterilite bin at room temperatures of ~70*F (21.1*C). Add a dish/lid of chopped collards or pesticide-free dandelions flowers/leaves off to one side. That keeps their dry diet mold-free and dry. Turnip greens and mustard greens are other high calcium/low phosphorus options.

    Feb 2016 - Scroll to post 35 for an interesting "drawer type" mealworm breeding setup used by swisswiss: should i get a cricket farm going before i get my geckos?

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    Diatomaceous Earth Alert: Some poultry/chicken feeds contain diatomaceous earth. Both Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed and Purina Layena Sunfresh Crumbles do NOT contain diatomaceous earth.

    "Some chicken laying feeds contain diatomaceous earth as a natural anti-parasitic for bird flocks. If ingested by insects, diatomaceous earth is fatal. The microscopic diatoms cut up their insides and cause a nasty death. It is also used topically for insect infestations as it will cut through exoskeletons or soft bodied worms and cause "bleed out." I have not read of anyone accidentally using a chicken feed with it in there and what effects it had on a colony of roaches/crickets/mealworms, et cetera, but I believe better safe than sorry and to warn people of it in case someone wants to use a different brand."

    Quoted from hmarie186 -- 1 February 2015
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    Mealworm & Superworm Tips . . . . . . acpart/Aliza -- April 2021 update

    "1. Keep both mealworms and superworms at normal room temperatures. The refrigerator is too cool for them.

    2. Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload (1-775-359-1085) for her mealworm & superworm bedding as well as for her insect and worm food.

    "The bedding, obviously, doubles as gutload. When most of the bedding has turned into droppings, I either add some of the original stuff or sift out all the droppings and put in new bedding. This is easier to do with superworms since they're bigger. Sometimes I lose tiny mealworms in the sifting process."

    3. In Europe you could do one of the following:
    • Get a variety of grains and cereal and put them in the blender. They can eat whole grains, but it will be much easier for you to get them out of the bedding if the grain is ground up. OR
    • Buy some chicken feed that does not contain diatomaceous earth.

    Most veggie peels work well. You can also feed crickets, mealworms, and superworms vegetable pieces that you would normally throw away: eggplant peels, carrot tops, cucumber peels, broccoli and cauliflower stems, Bell pepper cores, sweet potato ends, apples, and strawberry tops. They completely demolish them!

    Very juicy veggies and fruits are not a good idea. I tried cantaloupe rinds once and it was a disaster!

    Remove seeds from apples and Bell peppers. Apple seeds can, and have, caused choking!

    4. I feed superworms by dropping 1 at a time in front of the gecko. For a very reluctant gecko, I hold the gecko and gently poke the superworm at the mouth until it bites the worm. I have a gecko that rarely eats in the winter and a few years ago he was losing a lot of weight. I used a hypodermic needle to poke the superworm, got some of the guts on the end of the needle and poked it (gently) into the gecko's mouth. He didn't get much, but it did some good and he eventually started eating again. He's about to go into his annual winter fast, but he weighs 90 grams right now.

    5. I don't have any problem keeping mealworms alive at high temperatures. The only thing is, the higher the temp, the faster they'll turn into beetles. I have no AC, so it can occasionally get into the 90's in my house! If I wanted to keep the mealworms cool, I'd keep them down in the basement, but I'm not into running up and down the stairs every day. I buy them small, knowing that they'll grow larger soon, but it will extend the amount of time they're usable. I do breed them, so having them morph isn't a problem for me. The only other problem in hot and humid environments is having grain mites infest the bedding. Here's an article about how to deal with that: http://www.geckotime.com/how-i-got-rid-of-grain-mites/"

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    Hilde: On separating the casings from the mealworms - March 2015

    "I use one of these: Amazon.com - Polder 6631-75 Stainless-Steel Sink Strainer with Extending Rubber-Grip Arms - Colanders

    "Place the strainer in a tub (I use a drawer from one of my storage racks), then dump the whole mess, mealworms and substrate, in there. The strainer can sit in the tub, or extend the side grips to let it hang. Shake it a bit to let the substrate and small worms fall through. Larger worms and the castings will stay put. I do this outside if possible, since it gets a bit dusty. Next just blow air over the strainer to blow the castings out.

    "The larger worms go into a new raising container. The smaller ones that fell through with the substrate go back to the original container, with some fresh substrate added to the old. Trying to separate small ones tends to kill them, so I leave them until they're big enough to get trapped in the strainer. It also allows any eggs to hatch, no use wasting them by pitching them out with the substrate. As long as there aren't any beetles to lay more eggs, it generally takes about 2 cleanings to get the worms big enough to separate out completely, leaving only the old substrate which can then be pitched.

    "Big worms get can get fresh substrate the same way, strain out the old, blow the casings out, and return them to the container with fresh substrate."

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    Wheat germ, wheat bran, and oats contain HUGE amounts of phosphorus in comparison to calcium. Check the ratios! I do not recommend those beddings for breeding mealworms at all.

    • Wheat Germ -- Show Foods
      calcium 39
      phosphorus 842
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 22 parts phosphorus

    • Wheat Bran -- Show Foods
      calcium 73
      phosphorus 1,013
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 14 parts phosphorus

    • Oats -- Show Foods
      calcium 54
      phosphorus 523
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 10 parts phosphorus
    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    May 2017:

    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-04-2021 at 01:21 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks BalloonBat thanked for this post
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  2. #102
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    Smile #100---Shipping Tips . . . . . . December 2020 (update)

    I use 72 hour UniHeat pads all the time to provide extra insurance in case the geckos meet some delay.

    I shipped 4 boxes in September/October 2013 using the 72 hours. All 7 geckos arrived in fine shape! In October 2014 I shipped 2.0 two year old Oedura castelnaui overnight via Reptiles Express. Both geckos arrived fine!

    I enclosed a min-max Taylor digital thermometer while I traveled to the FedEx Ship Center in Portland in October 2014. Maximum temperature when I opened the box to remove the digital was in the 80s F. That was 5 hours after activating the heat pack.

    Tips
    • Departing & receiving temperatures between 55*F & 80*F. Check all potential hubs.
    • In 2013 FedEx told me that on time delivery was their first priority. That means our geckos/boxes could be sent anywhere!
    • Eliminate "unsupervised" ground transport as much as possible.
    • Activate heat pack 6 hours prior to sealing the 12 x 9 x 6 inch box. This allows the heat pack to reach it's peak temperature prior to leveling off!


    • Use small Phillips screwdriver to poke one small hole through both the styrofoam & cardboard on one side of box to provide airflow.
    • Poke or solder ventilation holes around the sides of the plastic deli cup(s).
    • Add paper towel strips to each deli cup for cushioning.
    • Add gecko to deli cup.
    • Place gecko(s) inside cardboard box with 3/4 inch thick styrofoam panels. 1/2 inch thick styro panels are minimum!
    • Surround deli cup(s) with styro packing peanuts to cushion it. Make sure your styro peanuts don't dissolve in water.
    • Loosely wrap heat pack with one layer of paper towels.
    • Place the loosely wrapped heat pack several inches from the deli cup or between two deli cups.
    • Add styrofoam top. Close box.
    • Tape top & bottom box flaps on both side edges with 1 strip of nylon-reinforced tape each rather than completing sealing off side flaps. That's 8 "side" tape strips for entire box.
    • Seal top & bottom centers with Scotch Heavy Duty Shipping Tape.
    • Don't tape corners of box to allow a bit more ventilation.
    • Use a shipping facilitator like Reptiles2You. The shipping prices will be better. Debbie Price offers excellent customer service!



    For link 145 click: Shipping Guidelines for Geckos . . . . . . Elizabeth Freer -- December 2020 (update)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 12-30-2020 at 09:59 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  3. #103
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    Smile #101---Cork Round Planters . . . . . . CrestedRick -- June 2014

    Click: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...-planters.html

    to CrestedRick! These are attractive additions to any vivarium.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 02:47 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  4. #104
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    Exclamation #102---Particulate Substrates & Impaction Cautions for Leopard Geckos!


    We think that impaction will never happen to our particular leopard geckos, but can we be 100% sure? Certainly there are cautions like avoiding particulate substrates until a leopard gecko reaches a certain age, avoiding calci-sand altogether, using feeding dishes, or whatever.

    Impaction could happen by eating chitinous insects or worms. Impaction can happen by ingesting paper towels, sphagnum moss, or other warm humid hide substrates like Eco Earth's coco fiber. Impaction is more likely to happen with dehydrated geckos. The keeper always needs to be vigilant.

    Roughly textured (~3/8 inch thick) ceramic, porcelain, and slate tiles are easy to keep clean! These tiles conduct heat from an UTH well. They eliminate substrate impaction, are attractive, permanent, and cheap.

    When particulate substrates are used there is always S-O-M-E possibility of impaction. Who would be the loser?

    • How do we know when, maybe, a leopard gecko might ingest some substrate along with a bug or a worm that's escaped from a feeding dish?
    • How do we know when the usual aim might be a little off target?
    • How can we predict when a sudden noise in a room might startle a leopard gecko?
    • How do we know when, maybe, a leopard gecko is feeling "a bit under the weather" and eating does not proceed "as usual"?

    Yes, there are many unknowns in life. Particulate substrates can be avoided. We are the winners!
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-04-2017 at 04:38 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  5. #105
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    Smile #103---Balancing Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 + Reptivite without D3

    Some people fuss because Zoo Med's Reptivite contains some phosphorus. These are the reasons I don't fuss.

    Reasons to ONLY use a wee pinch of no D3 (plain) Reptivite multivitamins 1x per week + very light dustings of Repti Calcium with D3 1x per week. The frequency of supplement dustings depends upon the diet one feeds insects and worms 24/7.
    • My vet recommends only a wee pinch of Zoo Med Reptivite multivitamins 1x per week.
    • In my experience, geckos seem to require ONLY a small amount of vitamin A acetate + other vitamins as long as their insects and worms are well fed.
    • Both Reptivite multivitamins (with and without vitamin D3) contain enough phosphorus to make the dusting levels roughly 2 parts calcium : 1 part phosphorus before you even consider the high phosphorus naturally contained in bugs.
    • Phosphorus impairs calcium absorption. The more phosphorus a supplement has, the less any calcium is absorbed by the bones.
    • Both Zoo Med Repti Calciums are phosphorus-free, so you can lightly dust for D3 without adding phosphorus.
    • Both Reptivite multivitamins (with & without D3) contain the same amount of calcium carbonate. (That's good!)
    • Vitamin D3 needs to be taken with food.
    • Calcium needs vitamin D3 in order to be absorbed. Dusting with plain calcium carbonate without giving vitamin D3 only helps if there is residual D3 inside your gecko.
    • Feed your bugs and worms the best dry diet you can afford! That builds strong feeder bodies. Consider light dustings of Reptivite multivitamins without D3 and Repti Calcium with D3 as secondary.
    • Some geckos don't like the taste of Reptivite multivitamins on their bugs.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Click: Cork Rounds drying out my geckos feetsies?

    Scroll to post 4 for GU billewicz's support of Scott Stahl, DVM and Zoo Med's ReptiVite™:

    "My gut load mix includes paprika for Vitamin A. I also include carrot and dandelion greens for their moisture and other vitamins and nutrients. Plant-based is always more assimilable than manufactured supplements.

    Speaking of which, Dr. Scott Stahl, the premiere reptile vet, highly recommends the ZooMed product, ReptiVite™. Originally formulated for zoos, it seems to work better than any other product I've tried including the Repashy supplements."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-04-2021 at 01:53 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks BalloonBat, kvnsu thanked for this post
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  6. #106
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    Smile #104---Is a hamster ball/wheel good exercise for a leopard gecko?

    majahawt......January 2015

    Hilde......October 2016
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-07-2017 at 01:03 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  7. #107
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    Smile #105---Yellow Urates: Potential Causes……DVM feedback -- Jan 2015

    Contributed by a vet who also keeps leopard geckos:

    "Urate color depends upon things like diet, health, et cetera. Generally urates are very white. More pigmented (especially green) urates can indicate an issue. It is possible that if the animal has not passed stool or urates for some time there can be a little staining of the urate portion of the waste products. I also think that this is sometimes the case if the stool is loose. Then there is a greater chance for pigments to bleed from feces to urates. If it is just little off-color I would keep an eye on it and if it is infrequent I wouldn’t worry. If we are talking dark yellow or green that's biliverdin and it implies that there is something more serious going on.

    Reptiles lack an enzyme called biliverdin reductase that allows them to convert biliverdin to bilirubin (as mammals do). So their bile is green. If the liver cannot handle removing it from the bloodstream efficiently, levels can exceed the renal threshold and spill into the urates. That would result in the urates being a greenish yellow to green color. What confounds this is that there's some mixing of feces and urine/urates in the cloaca so that some fecal pigments can stain the urates a light yellow color."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 07-07-2017 at 01:12 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  8. #108
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    Smile #106---Under tank heat mats (UTHs): Dimensions versus Wattages

    If you have a choice with any UTH, I'd NOT get one that has adhesive. That's because reusing it could be a fire hazard. The internal wires might get damaged when it is removed from it's original position.

    The actual dimensions of Fluker's 11 x 17 inch heat mats are 11 x 17 inches. The actual dimensions of UltraTherm 11 x 17 inch heat mats are 9.5 x 17 inches.

    Snugly stick the UTH underneath the enclosure with heat resistant aluminum tape from most any hardware store.

    Do NOT use any UTH underneath the tank IF using a wooden enclosure.

    • All Living Things 11 x 17.......24 watts
    • Ultratherm UTHs 11 x 17......22 watts
    • Flukers 11 x 17............24 watts
    • Hagen Exo Terra 11 x 17......25 watts


    Elevate your tank off the enclosure at the tank's corners 1/4-1/2 inch. That provides required ventilation for your UTH! Otherwise heat will build up and could potentially cause a fire

    The pads used on chair legs to prevent scratching the floor are one solution.

    Addenda
    • Consider the low Exo Terra enclosures that are just 12 inches high.
    • For a 24 x 18 inch enclosure consider a diagonal gradient. For instance, the warmest ground in the far left corner and the coolest ground in the near right corner. That can be achieved by "snaking" Zoo Med heat cables or Flexwatt heat tape from the far left corner to the near left and far right corners.
    • The Bean Farm has a pdf about Ultratherm UTHs on their site.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-21-2018 at 05:17 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  9. #109
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    Smile #107---UVB lighting versus powdered D3 for leopard geckos?......Geckologist.tj

    "Hi there, and welcome to the exciting, confusing, and at times downright frustrating world of keeping leopard geckos.

    These are the facts to the best of my knowledge, and I hope they help you. If anyone has knowledge to the contrary, please feel free to correct me.

    1) For the vast majority of time leopard geckos have been kept in captivity, it has been thought they don't really need the UV lights because they are nocturnal (actually, crepuscular if you want to get nitpicky).

    2) Relatively recently, some people have started using UV lights based on the theory that leopard geckos would be exposed to low levels of UV radiation in the evenings and mornings in the wild.

    3) There is limited research out there on the subject. Many people who do use UV lights disagree on how to use them.

    4) Because this is a relatively recent trend and because technology behind the UV bulbs is evolving, to the best of my knowledge there have not been any comparisons of the health of UV-exposed leopard geckos vs. non-UV-exposed leopard geckos over the course of their lifetimes.

    5) Of my three leopard geckos, each has their own tolerance for light in general. With that in mind, if I used a UV light all three would be exposed to it for different amounts of time. How do I know which ones are getting enough and which are getting too much?

    6) For many years now, leopard geckos have been successfully kept without UV lights into their late teens and even older.

    Conclusion: I prefer to use a good calcium powder with D3 and forgo the UV lights until there is more sound research and methodology behind the use of UV bulbs for leopard geckos. I prefer to have something a little more substantial than a handful of hobbyist's opinions, even though they could be right.

    I hope that helps, and I hope others share their thoughts. Good luck."


    Click, then scroll to post #2: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...tml#post440619


    [With much appreciation to Geckologist.tj......Feb 2015]
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Likes BalloonBat liked this post

  10. #110
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    Smile #108---Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs)


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Click: http://www.everythinggecko.com/gecko...-clone-en.html

    Click: HerpSupplies.com - Reptile Supplies, Vivarium, Reptile Accessories, Reptile Habitat, Reptile Lighting, Zoo Med, Reptile Supply, Lizard Supplies, Reptarium, Rep-Cal, Flukers, Reptile Bedding, Fresh-Air Habitat, Reptile Heat Pads still carries Pearlco 100s and 150s

    HerpSupplies.com gives superb customer service!

    The 30 watt CHEs may no longer be available.

    Pearlco used to manufacture top-of-the-line Ceramic Heat Emitters (30, 60, 100, & 150 watts). I have used the 30 watt and 100 watt sizes. Those bulbs are roughly the same size. Standard enclosed overhead domes give both these "smallish" bulbs ample screen clearance.

    "Pearlco is a world wide leader in infrared heating tools designed specifically for animal husbandry. Their products are recognized by zoos all over the globe as being efficient and reliable sources of infrared heat. Pearlco heat emitters generate heat with no visible light, and are available in a wide variety of sizes to suit the specific needs of your animals.

    Note: "Pearlco" brand ceramic bulbs are now packaged by Solaris??? Newtek??? They are from the exact same facility, and are the exact same quality as they always have been, but have been bought out by a new name."

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    April 2015 addendum:
    I replaced my dead 100 watt Pearlco CHE that lasted 4+ years with an All Living Things (PetSmart brand) 150 watt CHE. When placed inside my Fluker's 10 inch diameter clamp lamp BOTH the Pearlco and Creature Comfort brand 150 watt CHEs touched the screen!
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 10-27-2015 at 12:45 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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