Leopard Gecko Caresheet (Eublepharis macularius)...demo video & 4 Jan 2013 update

[Elizabeth Freer]

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When posting on the forums, here are a few suggestions which will ensure that your gecko gets the best care possible:
1. Title your thread Leopard Gecko Peanuts (or whatever the name is).

2. Then do something like this Leopard Gecko Peanuts: general husbandry issues. Consider using the lightbulb smilie for the title.

3. Doing such gives you a comprehensive thread about your gecko, lessens repeated advice by anyone who sees you posting related threads, and creates your gecko's history for people experiencing similar problems.

4. Titling your thread in this manner will also help out the forum's search engines and gecko education in general. With threads titled Oh my gosh...I'm stuck!, for example, the search engine has no idea where to take members searching for education with similar problems.

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13 June 2013: Vitamin/supplement section undergoing revision.

Carrots and dry oatmeal are not recommended for the cricket/feeder diet.

Be sure to check the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of any food fed to the crickets or worms. Carrots, for instance, are not good because carrots contain about a 1:2.3 ratio of calcium-to-phosphorus depending upon the charts. We wish to achieve a 1.5-2.0 Ca:P ratio for the food we feed geckos.

31 May 2013: There is some controversy, though not new, about the advisability of leaving plain calcium carbonate in the tank 24/7. That is why I recently altered my recommendations to a very small bottle cap of plain calcium carbonate in the tank 24/7 for back up only. A leo should not be constantly licking it. Best for calcium to be taken with food.

16 May 2013: Updated Zoo Med Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate[/U] instructions


Recommend NOT buying any "kit". Gather your leo's stuff by reading these guidelines. Then purchase your leo's stuff!

During the year Petco has $1-per-gallon sales: PETCO - Local Ad Can't beat this to purchase your initial tank or to give your leo an upgrade!!!

Much appreciation goes to all the Geckos Unlimited members whose very inquiries keep encouraging me to add additional information to these recommendations!

First off, have you found the sticky at the top of the leo subforum---additional advice by moderator Graham_s? http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...info-plus.html

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LeopardGeckoCare Sheet
Eublepharis macularius
ElizabethFreer@aol.com
Geckos Unlimited/Pacific Northwest Herpetological Society
3 June 2013 (amended)
(www.GeckosUnlimited.com)

On the 18 November 2012 GU's TonyPerkins203 made a Leopard Gecko Setup video featuring his 4th grade class leo "Cleo". Tony spent $370 plus shipping and handling. Note post #26 on this thread for details.

Be sure to click the YouTube title at the top left of the video instead of clicking the arrow. There are a few changes which do not show when one clicks the arrow.



Eublepharis macularius was first described by zoologist Edward Blyth in 1854.

Leopard geckos are crepuscular. That means they are active at dawn and at dusk. Leos are also thigmotherms.

PRELIMINARY ADVICE
(1) Quarantine Recommendations
Any new gecko should be quarantined for a minimum of 60 days prior to introducing her/him to the other geckos in the same cage. 60 days gives adequate time to check for parasites, cryptosporidia, and the beginnings of coccidia plus. 90 days is even better. 3-6 months of quarantine are recommended if your new gecko is imported or wild caught.

(2) Never keep two male leopard geckos together
A 20 gallon LONG (30 inch) tank is recommended for one leo. No further upgrades will be necessary.

(3) Best to Keep Leopard Geckos Alone
Leopard geckos are solitary creatures. They do not benefit from either a mate of the opposite sex or a "friend" of the same sex.

This photo shows the grave condition of a female leopard gecko the morning after the pair had been introduced for breeding. The breeder assumed that this male-female pair would get along. Clearly this wasn't the case.

Caution: graphic photos!
Housing 2 geckos together: Agressive behaviour, badly injured female, pictures

(4) Sexing Leopard Geckos
Sexing Leopard Geckos

(5) Posting Photos/Links...Embedding Photos/Links on GU
You can sign up for a free photobucket.com account, upload your pictures there. Grab the link they provide you for your pictures, and when posting on GU click on "insert image", which pastes the link.

vBulletin FAQ

(6)
Herp Vet Link
Herp Vet Connection

LocalVets.com -- just type in your zip code
Find a Veterinarian - Local Vets and Veterinary Clinics, Vet Services

Canadian Vets
Canadian Reptile Veterinarian listing (lizard, snake, turtle, tortoise, frog, salamander, amphibian)

BASIC GUIDELINES

Habitat: Tank, Heating, & Lighting
A minimum of a 20 gallon LONG tank: 30 x 12.5 x 12.5 inches (76.2 x 31.75 x 31.75 cm) is a good choice to maintain the thermal gradient you want. Air temperatures within the vivarium are just as important as belly heat for keeping your leo active!! Keep the Under Tank Heat mat on 24/7. Turn off the overhead lighting/heating at night (12 hours on and 12 hours off). Within a standard 10 gallon or even a 15 gallon long tank, it is very difficult to maintain the necessary thermal gradient a healthy leo requires.

The average size of a fully grown leopard gecko equals about 9 inches total length. A 20 gallon LONG tank might make many single leopard geckos happy for life!

Exo-Terra makes a great tank 36 inches x 18 inches x 12 inches tall with front doors for about $200 (January 2013 price). Check out attached links for wooden enclosures.

Updated Info on Adult Leo Tank Size, especially for Giant Leopard Gecko Morphs
For a reptile who is a ground dweller such as a leopard gecko, a minimum of 4x its total length should be provided. A reptile should have a zone, not a spot, in each of 3 areas: warm dry, warm moist, and cool dry. Its whole body must fit under each temperature gradient. If not, health problems can develop over time.

Temperatures for all leos regardless of size:
88-93 F (31-34 C) ground temp at warm end inside the warm dry hide
no greater than 85 F (29.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
no greater than 75 F (24.5 C) air temp - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

Leave the UTH on 24/7. Can turn off overhead heating at night.

Combine Under Tank Heating (main heat source) with overhead lighting. This combination should provide an optimal air temperature no warmer than 85 F (29.5 C) on the warm end about 4 inches above the ground. A 10 inch (25.4 cm) diameter dome fixture that has a ceramic socket is recommended for distributing the heat. These are rated for 250 watts maximum. Ceramic Heat Emitters (an alternative to infrared bulbs) last longer and only emit heat. An infrared bulb allows you to see your leo and does provide some heat. Hagen Exo-Terra's Night-Glo Moonlight bulb is an option. The Under Tank Heat Mat should be 1/3 the length of your tank and nearly the same width as the tank. "Size up" for a 30 x 12.5 x 12.5 inch tank and buy the UTH that is rated for 30-40 gallon tanks (16 watts).

Overhead wattages vary depending upon the ambient room temperatures. Provide daylight from a distant window. Direct sunlight will cause dangerous overheating.

Using UVB in a leo enclosure
Only if your enclosure is large enough and if you have experience using a UVB tube fluorescent (Zoo Med 18 inch ReptiSun 5.0 UVB tube---not a coil-type bulb), UVB rays could benefit your leopard gecko. Never combine supplemental vitamin D3 with UVB, because that would increase the vitamin D3 to unsafe levels for your leopard gecko. Best to also have a UV meter to measure the strength of the rays.

Hot rocks are very unsafe.

Hagen Exo-Terra's Night-Glo Moonlight Bulb is a good option:
hagen night-glo moonlight bulb - Search Results

Regarding red light bulbs:
night light:(can someone answer this please)

Reptile Lighting Information (source: The Reptile Channel):
Reptile Lighting Information

As an alternative heat source: Flexwatt Heat Tape is the industry standard heating method!
Check out post #43 immediately following this Leopard Gecko Caresheet for detailed Flexwatt information from The Bean Farm.


Ventilation Space for your Under Tank Heater -- Prevents house fires!!!
You will need unobstructed ventilation underneath the tank when usng any heat mat. This can be achieved by placing the tank on a wrought iron stand or by placing the small stick-on pads/"feet" that come with some UTHs on the corners of your tank. My wrought iron stand supports the periphery of the tank, but is completely open on the bottom.


Thermostats
Get a thermostat to control your UTH. Having a thermostat will provide your leo with stable and comfortable ground temperatures, lessen the chances of accidental overheating, and save $ on electricity.

Plug your UTH into the thermostat and set the temperature controls to turn off the UTH at say 91 F for leos. Then plug the thermostat into the wall outlet. These are good ones:


***Amazon.com: reptitemp 500r
***BAH-1000DC Reptile Thermostat New Model - Incredibly Reliable Digital Chip for Accurate Temperature Control
***Amazon.com: Hydrofarm MTPRTC Digital Thermostat For Heat Mats: Patio, Lawn & Garden
***Helix DBS1000 Proportional Therm - Helix Proportional - Temperature Control - The Bean Farm
***Herpstat 2 Proportional Thermostat - Herpstat Proportional - Temperature Control - The Bean Farm
***Zilla 1000 Watt Reptile Heat Temperature Controller 68022 R Zilla | eBay

In May 2013 a couple Geckos Unlimited members questioned the accuracy and the temperature range of the Hydrofarm MTPRTC thermostat. Hydrofarm claims that there should be no more than a 3% variability between the set temperature and the range when it cycles off and on. When the Hydrofarm cycles off and on, there are small clicks.

May 2013: Big Apple Herps claims the same 3% temperature variability on its BAH-1000DC thermostat. Set at 91 F, this thermostat also can drop to 88 F before cycling on. If set at say 91 F, it could reach a bit higher after turning off.

Proportional thermostats cost a lot more.

If your thermostat has only one outlet and you are using multiple heating devices, plug a power strip into the thermostat's single outlet, and then plug all the devices into that strip. This only works to maintain each vivarium at the same temperature. If you are looking for separate temperature levels (for instance the UTH set at one temperature and overhead dome set at a different temperature), you will need 2 thermostats. Do NOT exceed the maximum wattage of your power strip or thermostat!

Thermometers, Hygrometers, & Temperature Guns
Digital thermometers and infrared temperature guns are recommended. Radio Shack carries reliable digital thermometers and digital thermometer/hygrometer combos. For temperature guns check: (TempGun PE2 model--$35 USD) and (Pro Exotics Reptiles, the Nation's finest captive bred Snakes and Monitors, your source for Infrared Thermometer, Temp Gun.). The latter can be purchased with a metal case for a bit more $. Another less expensive, but recommended, temperature gun: Amazon.com: HDE Temperature Gun Infrared Thermometer w/ Laser Sight: Home Improvement. Digital thermometers measure the air temperature or the probe temperature, whereas temperature guns measure the floor temperature or precise spot where the laser is aimed.

Also: Digital Hygrometers - Weather Instruments, Weather Radios & Cupolas

Dial-type (analog) thermometers and liquid crystal thermometers can be very inaccurate.


Substrate
Place porcelain tiles, ceramic tiles, or slate tiles (Hampshire 12 in. x 12 in. Gauged Slate Floor & Wall Tile-SHAM1212 at The Home Depot), paper towels, or brown paper kitchen roll directly upon the bottom of the tank. If you choose paper towels, the safest route is to contain all food for your leo in a feeding dish!

Avoid vinyl tiles, with or without adhesive backing, because of the chemical issues created by off-gassing volatile organic compounds (VOCs) when heated.

Slate tiles should to be sealed with a food grade sealant so that they will NOT absorb gecko urine or feces. If you do not wish to seal the slate, then have several extra sections so that you can remove a few and sterilze them with a bleach solution. While the bleach is offgassing, replace the missing sections with different pieces.

Make sure your slate is the thickness of "standard" flooring or kitchen tile. If the slate is too thick it will interfere with heating from your UTH.

Some Lowe's Home Improvement stores WILL trim tiles free or for a small fee.

Reptile carpets are not good. Both young and mature leopard geckos tend to get their teeth and claws stuck in them. As well the carpet harbors bacteria from pee and poop.

Potential Slate Tile Sealants
Make certain any product is reptile-safe! Both the following are carried at my Home Depot:
****Spray-N-Seal: (Stone Care International, Inc ~ Tile Cleaners | Grout Sealer | Granite Countertop Care | Stone Care 800-839-1654)

Surface Guard Sealer: (TILELab ~ 800-272-8786, Building Materials for Contractors, Architects & Homeowners | Custom Building Products)

$20 Tile Cutter Link
Q.E.P. | 14 Inch Tile Cutter with 7/8 Inch Cutting Wheel | Home Depot Canada

3 Links Regarding Sand Impaction + Another Link
Geckos Unlimited has numerous reports of leopard geckos, young and older, dieing from sand impaction. NEVER use Vita Sand, Calci-sand, or any sand which contains calcium. You do not want your leo eating sand to get calciuml!

RIP Leo "Peach":
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...impaction.html
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...ear-peach.html
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...impaction.html

Leo Geoffrey:
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...paction-2.html


Humidity & Hides
Use 3 hides for one leo: a warm hide, a warm moist hide, and a cool hide.

For a simple moist/humidity hide, take a medium size opaque plastic container. Flip it upside down so that the lid on the bottom. Cut an entry hole/doorway. Soak several layers of paper towels in water, then squeeze out. Use those for the substrate of your humid hide. Alternatively you could use dampened sphagnum moss. The moist hide assists leos not only with shedding, but also with hydration.

The relative humidity recommendation for leo habitats ranges from 40-50%. The warm end of a leo's tank (88-93 F) will be drier than that except in the moist humid hide.

Provide cage furniture and silk plant foliage to provide additional cover for your leo.

Misting is NOT recommended for a leo tank. They like a water dish and a moist hide. Plants which thrive in dry environments are welcome!

Do NOT use vermiculite in the moist hide! Vermiculite in eye & cute picture of leo with eye patch: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...thing-eye.html.

Relative Humidity - CityRating.com (Thanks mod Hilde for this link.)

FEEDING YOUR LEOPARD GECKOS

Nutrient Requirements -- The Merck Veterinary Manual, 2011
Merck Veterinary Manual

Calcium, Vitamin, & Mineral Supplements

Never place either the calcium with D3 powder, a vitamin supplement, or a mineral supplement in a dish in your leo's tank!!! A quick death can result from overdosage.

The only supplement INSIDE a leopard gecko tank should be a very small bottle cap of 100% plain calcium. If your leo is making excessive use of plain calcium carbonate, something is amiss.

D toxicity.jpg

To enlarge the above left click the article written by Douglas R. Mader, DVM.

Vitamin D3 is crucial to a gecko's diet. Vitamin D3 helps metabolize calcium. Some dietary vitamin D3 and vitamin A acetate supplementation is required unless one uses UVB lighting. Without a vitamin D3 source, any leo/gecko is at risk for metabolic bone disease. Too much vitamin D3 is harmful as well. Never use vitamin D3 in addition to a UVB strip light. It's either one or the other. If one uses a UVB strip fluorescent, there should be many places for a leopard gecko to dodge the UVB rays.

Note revised supplement advice below.

Our goal is to provide a 1.5-2:1 ratio of calcium-to-phosphorus by lightly dusting the prey.

NOW is a human brand of totally plain calcium carbonate powder which can be used. It can be found either at health foods stores or online.

In places like some South American and African countries where a plain calcium carbonate powder is unavailable, cuttlebone (also pure calcium carbonate) can be shaved off and "chopped" to place in the very small bottle cap.

Edit: 13 July 2012
Relatively recent research suggests that chameleons do not metabolize beta-carotene into vitamin A at all. Does the same apply to geckos?

Vitamin A deficiency in Insectivorous Geckos | Gecko Time


Please continue reading :

On the 10 June 2013 I visited my exotics vet with my leo and another gecko. The vet clearly states that if a person does use some multivitamin mix it should be preferably Zoo Med's Reptivite with vitamin D3/A acetate (or the similar Reptocal formula). He further states that only "a little tiny pinch of the multivitamin mix with D3" should be used 1x per week.

Continued advice is to feed the crickets a nutritious diet 24/7. Then 2 days prior to feeding the crickets off to the geckos, feed the crickets T-Rex Calcium Plus Food for Crickets (T-Rex).

Be sure to check the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio of any food feed to the crickets or worms. Carrots, for instance, is not good because carrots contain about a 1:2.3 ratio of calcium to phosphorus depending upon the charts.

If you feed a less-than-ideal diet to the worms and insects, I recommend lightly dusting most prey with a vitamin D3/vitamin A acetate containing multivitamin mix (Zoo Med's Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate) about 2x weekly.

5777.jpg097612103625C (1).jpg5774.jpgrepticalciumwd3.jpg

***Current directions (16 May 2013) on Zoo Med's Reptivite with D3/A acetate:

"Directions for Insectivores: Place crickets in a plastic bag with a small amount of Reptivite w/d3 and shake to "dust" crickets with the powder. Feed approximately 12 dusted crickets per week for every 2.5 ounces (71 grams) of body weight.

Make sure you do not exceed the amount of Reptivite per body weight. It would also be best to split the amount instead of dusting a large amount in one day. This will at least help provide a more balanced diet. Some of us are uncomfortable to dust as frequently as suggested, instead use quality gut load, variety of insects, and the multivitamin less frequently." thanks to cricket4u


Lightly dust prey with Zoo Med's Reptivite WITH vitamin D3/vitamin A acetate as instructed above. Reptivite contains both vitamin D3 and other vitamins. It contains vitamin A acetate in contrast to the beta-carotene provided in Rep Cal's Herptivite.

Leave a very small bottle cap of 100% plain calcium carbonate powder in the tank 24/7 for consumption as needed by your leo . If your leo is making excessive use of this calcium, something is amiss.

Beyond the formal gutloading right prior to feeding off and dusting, feed your feeders a nutritious diet 24/7. Feeding off crickets whose entire body is healthy (and not only their guts) is very important!

OR

***In the United Kingdom, Nutrobal multivitamin is available for lightly dusting your prey also no more than 2x per week.

Then leave a very small bottle cap of Pro Rep Calci-Dust (100% plain calcium carbonate) in the tank 24/7. If your leo is making excessive use of this calcium, something is amiss.

Preferred Feeders (insects & worms) for Leopard Geckos

Nutritional Values of Common Feeders
Nutritional Value of Feeder Insects

Nutritional value of Elliot's Butterworms selling butterworms for petfood and fishing bait


Associated Nutrition Link
NDL/FNIC Food Composition Database Home Page

Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets, for example, 1-2 days prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food is a good gutload food. Top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate and phosphorus-free calcium with D3 no more than 2x weekly.

Suggested Prey Items
When trying out any new feeder for your leos, order a trial cup.

Feed adult leos 3 times per week and young leos just about every day. For both young leos and adults, lightly dust crickets, roaches, grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, butterworms, mealworm pupae, freshly molted mealworms, and locusts (smallest locusts possible) with phosphorus-free calcium with vitamin D3 (and multivitamins including vitamin A acetate) according to the directions on the container. Keep a very small amount of 100% plain calcium carbonate in a bottle cap in the tank 24/7. Monitor usage.

To keep crickets in a shallow feeding dish, cut off the back legs at the "knees". Young leos are often clumsy hunters. Slowing down the crickets by cutting off their back legs gives young leos more time to catch them. Loose prey in the tank will be a source of stress to your leo and can even nibble on your leo's toes when the leo is sleeping. It is fine to leave prey in a shallow feeding dish.

Phoenix worms (calciworms) are another feeder. These should neither be dusted nor gutloaded. The largest Phoenix worms are only 3/4 inch long. They are sometimes not very popular with leos.

Pinky mice, waxworms, superworms, or really even mealworms are not advised as leopard gecko food!!! Waxworms and pinkies are like ice cream for geckos. Not only are they way too fatty, once addicted to waxworms/pinkies, you will have a very difficult time feeding your leopard gecko more nutritious foods! Excessive fat in their diet will lead to hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease) and gout.

Silkworms are a soft-bodied feeder high in vitamin A.

Hornworms---Leopard geckos love them! Posts #33 & #47
Keeping hornworms from growing...until wine cooler purchase

Butterworms have also been recommended as a superior feeder. However, NEVER feed butterworms to crested geckos or to any other Rhacodactylus! Severe facial burns have been noted from so doing. My mature female leo, a cricket addict, has NOT been impressed with them.

The "Skinny" on Superworms
The advice formerly here on feeding supers (Zophobas morio) to leos has been removed because of the graphic advisory post from Mardy on the 9 February 2012! Scroll to Mardy's post on page 4 of this thread: Superworm Feeding Caution (Zophobas morio) -- cricket4u

Phoenix Worms (calciworms)
1/2 inch (medium) to 3/4 inch (large) Phoenix worms are recommended for leos. Scroll down this thread to find specific info on these worms. Once you receive the Phoenix worms, they should NEVER be fed!!! The Phoenix Worm Store Home Page

The Pros and Cons of Feeding Mealworms
http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...rd-geckos.html

http://www.geckodan.com/articles/Pro...0Mealworms.pdf

Mealworms---freshly molted or mealworm pupae, are recommended ONLY for variety, NOT as a staple food.

LEOPARD GECKOS NOT EATING

In emergency situations during which a leo has been off food for extended periods of time and is losing weight, REHYDRATE FIRST for a couple days!!!

Rehydration Information
"Only use unflavored Pedialyte. A few licks per day of pedialyte and licks of plain water in between."

How to force feed a Leopard Gecko - YouTube

Stroke gecko's lips, gecko opens mouth, then squirt in food or medicine. Be gentle and never force the mouth open.

Recovery Foods
***Fluker's Repta+Boost -- good for leos off food

8151.jpg

***Oxbow Carnivore Care (premium recovery food) is even better. Available through a vet--mainly. Oxbow Animal Health | Carnivore Care

Carnivore-Care-701073-AH_small.jpg

***Lafeber's Emeraid for Carnivors -- quite similar to Oxbow's Carnivore Care

***In a pinch, use Mazuri's Mazuri Shopping Cart - Insectivorous Lizards


VERY TEMPORARY RECOVERY FOODS
***Turkey baby food is better than chicken baby food. Place the baby food directly on the geckos lips/snout. If your assist feeding is more than just very temporary, turkey (or chicken) baby food should be mixed 1:1 with unflavored Pedialyte! Sprinkle a little calcium with D3 into the chicken baby food 2-3x per week. If additional calcium is necessary, use a liquid supplement called Calcium Glubionate.

***Check out the Assist-Feeding posts by Maurice Pudlo and others which follow this Leopard Gecko Caresheet.

FEEDING CRICKETS & ROACHES

Feed crickets/roaches food that provides no more than 20% protein and no more than 5% crude fat. Some choices are:

Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed (from feed store): The label reads 16% minimum protein, 3% minimum fat, and vitamin A acetate among many other nutrients!
Dry oatmeal
Alfalfa hay
Collard greens -- especially recommended for high calcium-to-low phosphorous ratio & high lutein
Carrots (???)-- natural source of beta carotene However, recent research suggests that chameleons do not metabolize beta-carotene into vitamin A at all. Don't know of any similar research done on geckos.
Whole grain TOTAL -- General Mills dry cereal (in a pinch)

If your source is pesticide-free with good soil, dandelion flowers and greens can also be fed to the crickets. To make the alfalfa hay easy to chew for young crickets, soak the alfalfa hay in water prior to adding .

Do not feed insects puppy, kitten, dog, and/or cat biscuits OR tropical fish flakes. Those are way too high in protein and fat and potentially could cause hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease).

Do not feed freeze-dried/canned crickets to geckos. Any gecko gets moisture from well-hydrated prey as well as the nutrients such prey provides.

To check out almost any ingredient, thanks to Maurice Pudlo, click here: NDL/FNIC Food Composition Database Home Page


Feeding Dishes
Cricket4u's Feelings about Feeding Dishes for Reptiles
"I would feel (that using feeding dishes) would be depriving them of their natural hunting instinct. Obesity is a huge problem with reptiles in captivity. I try my best to encourage them to explore."

Links from Elizabeth
Small ceramic ramekins from a kitchen store make excellent feeding dishes. They have deep vertical slippery sides---ideal for containing feeders! Even better are these clear 8 ounce glass dishes with totally vertical sides: 1" & 5/8" deep x 3" & 3/4" diameter (Anchor Hocking, 800-562-7511, ext 2478 & http://www.anchorhocking.com/prod_20...n_storage.html. Use a 1 inch high x 3 inch diameter stepping stone for ease of access to the feeding dish as well as to stabilize it.

https://www.facebook.com/video/video...59607730781688

Link from Tony Perkins
Mainstays Jumbo Tealight Holder: food and water dishes
Mainstays Jumbo Tealight Holder: Decor : Walmart.com

CRICKET CARE

Cricket Guidelines

Acheta domestica, the softer brown cricket, is highly recommended over Gryllus assimilis, the Jamaican field cricket (Attack of the Feeder Crickets | Gecko Time). For crickets I place All Purpose Poultry Feed, dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay on the bottom of an extra large Kritter Keeper or a plastic 56 quart Sterilite container. Then add the crickets, two layers of egg flats, and top with a paper towel. Keep these crickets at room temperature. Either spray the paper towel about every other day for moisture or soak the paper towels in water and squeeze them out before placing them on top of the egg cartons. Collard greens and carrots also provide moisture. Too much moisture in any form will cause your cricket bin to smell from premature cricket death and mold! Using these methods it is easy to keep crickets alive for a month or so post purchase.

Gryllodes sigillatus, the banded cricket, is now being sold in the USA by Ghann's (Nov 2012). Tried out by a friend who reports in May 2013 that Gryllodes sigillatus are more jumpy than Acheta domestica.

ROACH CARE

I breed Blaptica dubia in a 10 gallon tank with 5 vertically positioned egg flats trimmed to be just a bit shorter than the height of the tank . Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed (ground or not), dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay can be kept in shallow lids to one side of the egg flats. Collard greens and carrots can be added occasionally. For moisture I dampen a clean medium-size sponge and occasionally spray the flats. In a room which ranges from 67 F/19.5 C upwards, I keep a 40 watt bulb in a 10 inch diameter reflector dome directly over the screened tank and on 24/7.

Excellent link: Feeder Roaches: Care and Breeding

HORNWORM CARE

Hornworm Guidelines

See posts #33 & #47

SILKWORM CARE

Silkworm Guidelines

Your Online Silkworm Shoppe Silkworm Care

See post #52

FEMALES BECOMING EGG-BOUND

All female geckos can develop infertile eggs without mating. Hence, females need a nestbox/warm moist hide in which to lay those eggs. Definitely place dampened moss inside their warm moist hide.

If a female gecko becomes egg-bound, eventually the eggs begin to rot inside. This infection leads to septicemia then death.

BREEDING LEOS---TIP

From mating to egg-laying takes anywhere from 2-4 weeks depending upon temperature. Be sure the nest box has been prepared and that your incubator is just about ready to go.

INCUBATING LEO EGGS

Albey's How To Incubate Leopard Gecko Eggs

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Scroll down this thread for additional informative posts !

[Elizabeth Freer]

Female leopard geckos lay their eggs 2-4 weeks after mating. Usually the warmer the environment they are in the faster they lay! I live in tropical Venezuela and they lay as soon as 12 days after copulating. The ideal would be to put a lay box in the hot spot of the female’s tank. If you give the female a moist, warm spot, she'll probably lay faster. After copulating keep her separated from the male. Separation reduces stress and increases the possibilities of fertile eggs! I would advise feeding her as much as you can, while she is still eating (probably she won’t eat at all a few days before laying), with enough calcium, vitamins and D3, in order for her to be in her best condition to produce ova.

I definitely advise turning on your incubator immediately after copulating. Sometimes it takes days to get the temperatures stable. Set up a thermometer, and (as a personal opinion) put that thermometer inside the incubating box where the eggs will be kept. Make certain that the substrate reaches the proper temperature and humidity before the eggs are placed in it. It is always best to have everything set ahead of time!! That way your eggs won't have to suffer from a sudden change in temperature! Remember to get the temperature stable according to the sex you'll want for your newborns before placing the eggs into the incubator. The sooner you get prepared the better! Good luck!

With thanks to GU member Saskia for sharing these tips.


Incubating Leo Eggs
http://www.albeysreptiles.com/incubate-eggs.htm

[Elizabeth Freer]

Just phoned my exotics vet for his recommendation:

1. Place a piece of plastic where your leo usually poops. If your gecko poops somewhere else, take the poop to the vet anyway. Some poop is better than no poop! (Thanks to TheOneBlueGecko - 25 July 2011)

2. As soon as your gecko has passed some poop and urates, but without physically touching the sample, place the feces and urates directly into a plastic ziploc bag. (Do NOT use dampened paper towels because the paper towels might absorb some of the feces necessary for a proper culture.)

3. Refrigerate this sample...unless you are taking the sample to your vet immediately. Do NOT freeze it.

4. Take this fecal sample to your vet within 24 hours of collecting...the sooner the better!


[There are two types of fecals: direct smear and float tests. For reptiles, both tests should be run. Thanks to BonnieLorraine -- 2 January 2012]

[Elizabeth Freer]

The Leopard Gecko Morph Calculator
(With thanks to Mardy - 26 July 2011)


Reptile Genetics Calculator
(Thanks to Jay Arndt)


Category:Morphs - Leopard Gecko Wiki
(Thanks to Riverside Reptiles--Ethan)


HerpRegistry Leo Lineage Family Tree
HerpRegistry - Leo Lineage - Home
(Thanks to Chuck Pritzel)


http://www.paulsagereptiles.com/LeopardGenetics.htm
(Thanks to zelda)

[Elizabeth Freer]

Be sure to monitor your gecko at all times during these procedures.

GU's mod Thorrshamri (Herve) offers this tip: When bathing your gecko, add a chamomile tea bag to the 80-83 F water you use for the bath. That helps soften the old stuck skin and makes it easier to remove. It is a totally risk-free method!

Place your gecko in a humidity chamber for an hour or so to loosen stuck shed.

In case the eyes have retained shed, gently flush them with a saline solution. One method is to fill a small squeeze bottle with the saline and gently aim the flow towards the eyes. Alternatively, saturate a small sterile gauze pad and gently hold this against the stuck eye/eye area shed for several minutes. Use a normal saline eye wash solution recommended for contact lens insertion, NOT a contact lens CLEANER!!!

If these methods are ineffective or if there is any sign of infection, prompt vet attention is necessary!

METHOD #1:
Take a plastic container a little bigger than your gecko
Poke holes in the lid so your gecko can breathe
Place a dampened washcloth on the bottom
Add a rough rock or piece of cork bark
Add the gecko
Snap on the lid
Place this near a lamp---not too bright or warm. Use a low wattage (25 watt) red bulb. You should see droplets form on the sides of the container as an indication the humidity is increasing.

After an hour or two remove the gecko and gently attempt to remove the stuck shed using a gentle rolling motion with a wet q-tip.

Some folks place this covered container containing the leopard gecko into shallow warm water to generate the desired humidity


METHOD #2:
Fill a shallow basin or the bathroom sink with lukewarm water to your gecko's belly depth.

Let your gecko soak for about 20 minutes.

This should definitely loosen any shed remaining on the critter's toes.

Then take a wet q-tip, and with a gentle rolling motion, work on the toes. You can gently use a tweezers.


METHOD #3:
You can wrap the gecko in a wet washcloth with just the snout and eyes visible. Hold in place for 15-20 minutes. Remove. See if the stuck shed can gently be removed. If not, try wrapping again for another 15 minutes.


METHOD #4---especially for crested geckos:
Crested Gecko "Bath" - YouTube

[Elizabeth Freer]

Phoenix Worms retain all of their nutritional values and must NOT be fed. Feeding PWs would restart their digestive system, they would defecate in the cup, and soon you would have bacteria growing and dead stinky worms. Simply keep the worms in the closed cup, store in a cool location, and feed-off as needed. There is a care sheet that is enclosed with each order but in the meantime, this link will give you more info:
The Phoenix Worm Store Frequently Asked Questions

The Phoenix Worm Store Home Page

[Elizabeth Freer]

During the warm water soak try massaging his belly from throat to vent (longitudinally).


"Apart from the bath you could also try a drop of mineral oil on your gecko's nose or if you can't get that 2 drops of olive oil. I used a combination of bathing (warm water not too hot) and mineral oil and gently rubbing my lizard's belly from front to back in the water. In addition check that your temps are warm enough, that your gecko has enough water and calcium, and that your gecko isn't eating food that's too big as these can cause constipation. If you're keeping it on sand or any other substrate that they can eat - change it as ingestion could be causing your gecko to be impacted too. If there's still no poop you'll have to take your gecko to the vet. 20 days with no poop is way too long! Can you see a big black mass of poop in your gecko's body - their skin's pretty transparent on their underside? Good luck with your poor little gecko! I really hope it's better soon." Thanks, Debbie7054 (10/14/2011)


"When I thought my gecko was constipated the vet told me to give her her liquid paraffin (medicinal), 2 times a day for 2 days. It worked.

Dosage for a 40 gram leo: 0,2 ml 2 times a day, for 2 days." Thanks, zelda (10/14/2011)

[Elizabeth Freer]

How to force feed a Leopard Gecko - YouTube
Stroke gecko's lips, gecko opens mouth, then squirt in food or medicine. Be gentle and never force the mouth open.

(video /\ thanks to YouTube's timbo5360 -- October 2012)

For shortterm assist feeding ONLY:
***Turkey Baby Food versus Chicken Baby Food
"Turkey baby food is a milder food than chicken and thus provides less of a shock to the digestive system. The goal of assist feeding is not to overwhelm the gecko with nutrients.

The recommended 1:1 ratio of turkey baby food (which is has a slightly higher water content than chicken baby food) to pediatric fluids (Pedialyte) helps quickly replace fluids and provides a mild dosage of nutrients that are more easily digestable than the more nutrient-dense chicken baby foods. Fluid replacement at a veterinary clinic is often highly invasive procedure and should be avoided if at all possible.

Turkey is also lower in saturated fats as well as total fats. Fats are in both but the turkey diet after mixing contains just 3.1% where the chicken diet would have 3.95% (close to one percent higher in total fat content, of which a higher percentage is saturated fat).

Turkey is slightly more mineral-rich than chicken (based on total ash content) and this may help with replacement of any lost due to a previously substandard diet.

Turkey baby food contains 3 times as much total vitamin D (D2 + D3). This offsets its lower calcium levels. My opinion is that the calcium in turkey is more available than the calcium in chicken baby foods due to the higher level of vitamin D."

With thanks to Maurice Pudlo -- December 2011


For longterm assist feeding:
(1) ***Fluker's Repta+Boost...available at Petco
Guaranteed Analysis:
Protein (min) 25%, Fat (min) 17%, Fiber (max) 2.5%, Moisture (max) 13%, Calcium (min) 0.60%, Phosphorus (min) 0.50%.

Ingredients:
Egg product, wheat flour, starch, isolated soy flour, corn oil, dried brewers yeast, dried kelp, calcium carbonate, dicalcium phosphate, pollen, dextrose, sodium chloride, potassium sorbate (preservative), dl-methionine, lecithin, choline chloride supplement, potassium chloride, spirulina, manganese sulfate, mixed natural tocopherols (antioxidant), zinc sulfate, magnesium oxide, ascorbic acid, beta carotene supplement, niacin, vitamin E supplement, copper sulfate, vitamin B12 supplement, vitamin A acetate, calcium pantothenate, vitamin D3 supplement, pyridoxine hydrochloride, menadione sodium bisulfite complex, riboflavin, thiamine mononitrate, ethylene diamine dihydriodide, biotin supplement, folic acid, sodium selenite.


(2) ***Oxbow Carnivore Care premium recovery powdered food...available through a veterinarian
"Elizabeth I just saw that you needed information on Oxbow. I am familiar with the product and have used it successfully as well. I have never suggested it because it's hard to find for most and my fear of it being used without the care of a veterinarian. Although it comes with the instructions depending on the condition, the vet might dilute with more fluids than suggested."

Oxbow Animal Health | Carnivore Care

http://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/res...ile-Ferret.pdf

Oxbow Info thanks to cricket4u -- February 2012

(3)***In a pinch, use Mazuri's Mazuri Shopping Cart - Insectivorous Lizards

(4)***Hill's a/d canine/feline Critical Care Prescription Diet blended with water
A great recovery food you that can only get from a vet's is the Hill's a/d canine/feline Critical Care Prescription Diet (www.HillsPet.com). It is important to blend that food/any food with water to a consistency in which you may place it on his snout or in a syringe. The Hill's diet/water combo is necessary to rehydrate.

Freeze meal-size portions of the diet/water in an ice cube tray and then bag in Ziplocs for daily thawing.

[Elizabeth Freer]

http://la.rsmjournals.com/content/19/4/284.full.pdf

With thanks to cricket4u -- 1 January 2012


http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...eye-patch.html

[Elizabeth Freer]

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From GU's Mod Thorrshamri/Herve---18 Nov 2012
The nutritional value of prey insects

The 2nd link in Herve's Geckos Unlimited sticky in the Feeder forum, Journal of Wildlife Rehabilitation, 2004, contains three very helpful comparisons:
Table 1: protein, fat, et cetera, of feeders
Table 2: mineral content of feeders
Table 3: vitamin content of feeders

Crickets (Acheta domestica), grasshoppers, fruit flies, plus other feeders are referenced.


Other comparisons
Nutritional Value of Feeder Insects

The Phoenix Worm Store Nutritional Comparison Chart

Nutritional Facts

With special thanks to cricket4u -- 2 January 2012


Added
Nutritional value of Elliot's Butterworms selling butterworms for petfood and fishing bait