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  #1  
Old 04-21-2007, 12:08 AM
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Default Help PLEASE with pietschmanni

This is just making me stressed be on belief. My uroplatus pietschmanni has some how hurt is front left foot. It doesn’t look swollen or anything though. This has been going on for the past week and I was just thinking he was laying funny on it but now I can tell it is really hurting him. This is just really, really beating me down because this gecko has been in USA for over 4 years, eats every night, and weights 22 grams. In the past I have not had good luck with uroplatus and I was thinking it was changing. I cannot take him to the vet until next Saturday and do not know what to do with him in the mean time and what will happen when I am waiting this long.
Please, please some give me some advice to cheer me up or make madders better. I just really would give anything for this gecko and love him do death.
I have read about this problem before and know someone on this site it has happed to and I would love advice from you and some people who specialize in uroplatus’s.

Thank you for all of your help and please post a reply
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Old 04-21-2007, 01:30 AM
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put a small dab of neosporin on it three times a day.
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  #3  
Old 04-21-2007, 06:32 AM
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Camo, maybe you should consider laying off the Uroplatus geckos for a while. From reading your posts on Geckoworld, you really do have bad luck with them and you have lost a proportionately high number of them. This is the third time I can remember you having problems with "swollen feet", in this species in particular, and you always lose the gecko shortly after.

Maybe it is something in the environment. Maybe the geckos are damaging their feet on something in your enclosure and getting infections. Maybe there is a parasite affecting their feet. You can treat the symptoms all you want but the truth is you need to find out what is creating this problem. "Swollen feet" could be any number of things. Move the gecko to a sterile enclosure (i.e.: paper towel, plastic hides and branches, etc.) and monitor the gecko.

You should figure this out before you keep another corkbark.
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Old 04-21-2007, 12:58 PM
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He is actually doing a little better today. He is walking on it more and he’s not letting it hang at the moment. When something like this happened with my other pietschmanni it was just totally swollen and her pads didn’t even grip to my finger and I think that was so kind of parasite. This is different though I think he has hurt it doing something. The foot still sticks to my finger like glue and isn’t swollen the least bit. He just is confusing me on why he lets it hang off and on all of a sudden. None the less it looks better, much better but I’m still bringing him to the vet to get it looked at and maybe and x-ray to see what’s going on. Hopefully I can get a feces sample done as well.

Thanks for your help though max power, spidergecko
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:09 PM
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was he wild cought to begin with? if so it could be an old injury acting up or he could have possibly fell or grabbed on to something wrong after a jump and sprained it...
i havent had this problem in the leaf tails but i do have a bearded dragon who got attacked by another when it was little and hurt his front leg really bad.... every so often it acts up a bit and he favors that leg.... but thats all i can think of what could possibly be goin on with it not being swollen
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Old 04-22-2007, 02:15 PM
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I was thinking he had sprained it to. He was wild caught but hes been in the US for 3-4 years and in my care for a little over a year. He seems very old so his bones my be weak? He is fine now though.

Thanks for your help
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  #7  
Old 04-24-2007, 12:41 AM
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what substrate do you use. Also how is your supplementation
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  #8  
Old 04-24-2007, 12:51 AM
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camo...we've been over this before. before you can expect any help, you've got to provide some details. im probably wrong here, but are you sure you've had him for over a year? i thought it was less than a year ago that all of your uroplatus had died (forgive me if i am wrong).

anyways, for starters please give us the following details, and even elaborate when possible:

lighting
temperature
humidity
cage setup (substrate, plants, other cage furniture)
food items
supplements

and really, anything else you can think might have the least bit of significance worth mentioning.

and have you already set up the vet appointment for the weekend? i thought most vets didnt take weekend appointments, unless it was an absolute emergency.
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  #9  
Old 04-24-2007, 08:46 PM
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INTRODUCTION
Ok, to start off the geckos name is Waldo (it was his name from his previous owner). Waldo is probably 4 years of age and I have had him for little under a year now. I do not know how old these geckos live to be, but I would like to. He is 6 ½ inches long and usually weights 22 grams but he is down to 19 grams at the moment.

LIGHTING
To start off I have a 3ft fluorescent light fixture in the back of the cage. This holds no source of UV because it is a normal light bulb from the hardware store. The UV lighting he does have is a super UV coil lamp. He basks in the morning for about a little over an hour then gets up and hides some were. Morning occurs when the lamp go on witch is 7:30AM and go off around 9:00.

TEMPURATURE
The average temperature in the cage is 75.F during the day and in the 60’s at night. The humidly is about the hardness thing to tackle in this big cage (Why such a big aquarium for a small gecko? Answer in cage setup.) Anyway, humidly ranges around 75% to 80%. (I don’t even know if this is correct because if I had added up all the hydrometers I have bought in the past I could probably buy an uroplatus gecko. For some reason they always get shot and zero out on me or if compare them humidity with another hydrometer in the terrarium they will average out differently. I am fed up and going to buy a very expense on hydrometer. Does anyone suggest one?

CAGE SETUP
Waldo is set up in a 75-gallon aquarium and he always has been. It is an absolute pain in the a** to keep this cage function able. I would change him into a smaller terrarium but I am scared to. He has done fine up to this point and lasted about a year unlike my previous uroplatus collection. I am just worried if this would effect is weight, stress level etc.

-Wood: His terrarium consists of many extra large pieces of treated corkbark and vines.

-Plants: One large bromeliad, a vriesea, a dwarf schefflera, and 2 liriope. These are all well established healthy plants. Also like any plant you buy at a nursery they come with soil with fertilizer in it. All fertilizers I remove buy taking the plant out of its pot and shacking it till all traces of fertilizers are removed. Then I re plant it in the pot using zoo-med eco earth compressed coconut fiber.

Bedding- Bedding consists of zoo-med eco earth compressed coconut fibers. Also if you have read my posts in the past I would talk about small bugs infested in the terrariums bedding in which I previously found it is most likely springtails. Out of all the attempts of getting rid of the pesky bugs I still have problems with them. There number are down a lot now because of my massive cleaning and spraying mite off and this seams to kill them.



FEEDING
My geckos are given a variety of foods now that someone has explained to me the massive importance of that. Waldo receives in a day of feeding receives; 6 dusted crickets a food bowl containing phoenix worms, wax worms, wax moths, and meal worms beetles.
Also I have read that old crickets in a cage tend to starve and resort to eating the gecko’s feces. This has never really worried me till I found out what in geckos fences. What I made out of it is that when a gecko has a parasite/worm it will tend to get the majority of it out of its system itself. When a crickets eats its feces though and then the gecko eats the cricket it is being re introduce into the cage resulting in even more of an out-brake. I am now trying all I can to prevent this from happening buy: Taking ever bit of fences dead cricket etc. out of the cage and every living item as well. Then I added a food bowl with cricket meal mixed with gecko vitamins and calcium and they eat it all the time now.

Also I left this out. About the time when I got the gecko I read that people could feed uroplatus pietschmanni ‘s snails mostly female and I decided to try it. I add slugs though (shell less snails) about 3. I was thinking they were all gone till about a month ago when I notice they were everywhere 14 of them. They would hide in the bulbs of the bromeliads and come out at night when I did not notice them. There are still some in there.

SUPPLEMENTS
I don’t go light on supplements around here my gecko and fed with a great mixture or mess of supplements at a time. (Maybe too much?) I would just tell you the products I use but it’s too vast so I will just tell you the amounts.

Crude protein 48.00%
Crude fat 33.00%
Crude fiber 5.0%
Calcium 100%
Phosphorus 1.15%
Iron 150
Copper 10
Zinc 50
Biotin 150
Vitamin A 300,000
Vitamin B12 2,000mg
Vitamin D 1850
Vitamin D3 41,000
Vitamin E 250
Vitamin C 500
Vitamin K 2gm
ME Carnivore 5.35
Alanine 2.82gm
Arginine 2.64gm
Aspartic Acid 4.66gm
Cystine 1.24gm
Glutamic Acid 5.98gm
Glycine 1.58gm
Histidine 1.06gm
Isoleucine 2.46gm
Leucine 3.87gm
Lysine 2.90gm
Methionine 1.72gm
Phenyalanine 2.68gm
Proline 1.76gm
Serine 3.12gm
Threonine 2.07gm
Tryptophan 0.75gm
Tyosine 1.80gm
Valine 3.17gm
Bata Carotene 500,000mcg
Folic Acid 15mg
Thiamine 400mg
Riboflavin 250 mg
Rutin 7.5mg
Para-Aminobenzonic Acid 500mg
Bioflavanois 25,000mcg
Hesperidin 25,000mcg
Niacin 1,500mg
Pyriodoxine 250mg
Pathothenic acid 150mg


My fingers hurt, anyway hopfully this is enough information. Oh, and forgive me if there are miss spelled words i didnt have time to proof read.

Thanks
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  #10  
Old 04-26-2007, 06:42 PM
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miguel camacho! did you get the private message i sent you yesterday.
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