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  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Cricket Care Guidelines I -- with detailed thread


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    Click: Cricket Care Guidelines I -- with detailed thread

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    ~ Hassle-free Cricket Care ~
    Geckos Unlimited
    November 2020 (update)
    www.GeckosUnlimited.com

    Water Crystal/Gel Alert! -- June 2019
    I continue to read significant cautions about water crystals from very experienced keepers. Dehydrated water crystals have been found in the guts of deceased animals. Instead I use a couple layers of moist paper towels to provide moisture for crickets and dubia.
    Diatomaceous Earth Alert!
    Some chicken feeds contain diatomaceous earth. If diatomaceous earth is in a product, it should be listed on the label!

    I only recommend Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed or Purina Layena Crumbles poultry feed, because they don't contain diatomaceous earth. If you cannot find those in the USA, don't buy poultry feed.

    "Diatomaceous earth is a natural antiparasitic for bird flocks. If ingested by insects, diatomaceous earth is fatal. The microscopic diatoms cut up insects' insides and cause a nasty death. It is also used topically for insect infestations as it will cut through exoskeletons or soft bodied worms and cause "bleed out." I have not read of anyone accidentally using a chicken feed with it in there and what effects it had on a colony of roaches/crickets/mealworms, et cetera, but I believe better safe than sorry and to warn people of it in case someone wants to use a different brand."

    Quoted from hmarie186 -- 1 February 2015
    NEVER toss uneaten insects or worms back in with the colony OR feed them to other geckos! This prevents bacteria, parasites, or diseases like cryptosporidosis from spreading. Always freeze (or otherwise destroy) all uneaten insects or worms from any gecko's enclosure.
    • Exceptional gecko thirst could be a red flag that you are overdoing the multivitamins and/or the vitamin D3 and that your gecko may have kidney problems.
    • Gecko urates should be pure white. Yellow urates are NOT good.


    Strive for a ratio of 1.5-2.0 calcium:1.0 phosphorus from the foods we feed insects and subsequently feed our geckos.

    To check nutrient levels (calcium, phosphorus, et cetera) of many foods enter the particular food on this United States Department of Agriculture link: Foods List

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Dry Diet: For the 24/7 dry cricket diet use a good food (~16% protein, less than 5% fat, moderate fiber) that also contains vitamin D3, vitamin A acetate (retinol) or vitamin A palmitate, and vitamin B12!

    Finely grind all these pellets in a Krups coffee/spice grinder or place the pellets in a plastic bag and pound them with a hammer.
    (1) ***Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food***: 888-496-6633
    91IdS7rL7tL._SL1500_.jpg
    (click to enlarge)

    (2) Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground dry diet made by Professional Reptiles for her insect and worm food as well as for her mealworm/superworm bedding.

    "The bedding, obviously, doubles as gutload. When most of the bedding has turned into droppings, I either add some of the original stuff or sift out all the droppings and put in new bedding. This is easier to do with superworms since they're bigger. Sometimes I lose tiny mealworms in the sifting process."

    (3) Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed: 800-457-2804

    (4) Purina Layena Crumbles
    • Purina Layena customer service: 800-227-8941

    (5) ***Cricket Crack dry diet can be ordered from the Reptile Supply Company. It's a premium dry diet for insects and worms. The Dehydrated Milk in Cricket Crack has been fortified with vitamin A palmitate.

    (6) ***Alfalfa Meal - in addition to the starred foods above (from the Reptile Supply Company)

    Hilde recommends this pro-grade sifter for mealworms: https://www.amazon.com/Polder-6631-7.../dp/B00006NWBG

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    By following these tips it's easy to keep your crickets alive and thriving 1-2 months past purchase:
    • Crickets live about 9 weeks.
    • Keep them at normal room temps (68-74*F, 20-23.3*C).
    • Unbox your crickets as soon as they reach room temperature.
    • Take a 56 quart Sterilite plastic bin or an extra large Kritter Keeper.
    • Empty crickets into the container.
    • Place finely ground Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food, Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed, or Purina Layena Crumbles on the bottom of the insect container. Also put the dry diet in shallow ridged lids.
    • Split cardboard egg flats in half. Stand 5-6 half flats horizontally in your cricket bin, back-to-back, front-to-front, back-to-back, and so on. That creates hideouts for your crickets. The more space crickets have, the less they will die from overheating (heat encapsulation effect).
    • Place 2 layers of paper towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Once daily thoroughly moisten the paper towels under the faucet and squeeze out excess water. OR spray the paper towels.
    • Replace wet paper towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Place chopped high calcium/low phosphorus, leafy greens (collard, mustard, turnip) or pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens in a small ridged lid next to the cricket food.
    • Keep the dry food dry to avoid mold and to keep vitamins and other nutrients viable.
    • Every so often use a small whisk broom to remove cricket feces and dead crickets.
    • In addition Armstrong's Crickets suggests lightly roughing up the lower sides of these bins with sandpaper to give crickets more space to hang out.
    • Cricket water dispensers and spare parts can be purchased from Armstrong's.

    High calcium/low phosphorus leafy greens like collard, mustard, and turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens in a dish off to the side are excellent additions to dry insect and worm diets. Besides the actual vitamins, they add moisture.

    General Mills' dry cereal whole grain TOTAL can be used in a pinch.

    Do not feed insects dog food, cat food, or fish flakes. Those are way too high in protein and fat and potentially could cause hepatic lipidosis and gout. Foods containing high purine and high alkaline levels should be limited. Those foods fed in excess can increase uric acid and make your reptile more susceptible to gout as well.

    Do not feed freeze-dried or canned insects or worms to your geckos. All geckos need moisture from well-hydrated prey as well as the nutrients such prey provides.

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    25 Feb 2013 - Hilde
    "The only way to properly regulate vitamin and mineral intake, calcium in particular, is to only supply it via gutloading and dusting. Dusting is only secondary, the most important thing is to use the proper gutload."

    2 March 2013 - Hilde
    Captured from post 134, 27 Feb 2013, on "spoiled by crickets" thread in the crestie forum:
    "If you feed the insects a decent diet full time, not just a day before feeding them off, you really improve the nutrients they'll provide - build a better body, not just fill the relatively short intestinal tract."

    Scroll to the 3rd post in that /\ thread for suggestions about breeding crickets.
    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "Light supplemental dusting" of crickets, Blaptica dubia, and mealworms = a "sprinkling of powdered sugar on a cake". Use a tall (32ounce) plastic deli container. Then add a pinch of vitamin or calcium powder. Add crickets (or other bugs/worms); then gently swirl. Bounce the insects against the bottom of the container to remove excess powder. Tightly cap this tall container until the next use.

    A 1 tablespoon sized measuring spoon can be used to scoop crickets out of this container.
    71Ea8nVmhjL._SL1500_.jpg
    (click to enlarge)

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    "Gutloading" the Feeders 24-48 hours before feeding them off versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
    The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your geckos' insects and worms a nutritious regular diet 24/7. That builds strong feeder bodies.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 02:57 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks swisswiss, Jonnette, Zux, Gixxer450, Ignitius and 8 others thanked for this post
    Likes swisswiss, Zux, Gixxer450, Scarygirl liked this post

  2. #2
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    Lightbulb #1---Nutritional Comparisons of Insects & Worms

    Chart #1 click: Mark Finke, Ph.D.'s, Nutritional Analyses of Feeders chart http://www.geckotime.com/wp-content/...able-large.png

    Chart #2: Finke + DubiaRoaches.com


    Click for Gecko Time thread: Nutritional Value of Commercially Raised Insects - Gecko Time - Gecko Time
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 04-18-2019 at 07:56 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  3. #3
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    Lightbulb #2---How to Breed Crickets . . . . . . cricket4u -- Nov 2013

    "I do it the simple way; no fancy set up. All I do is put a Tupperware container full of Eco Earth inside of a larger bin full of adult crickets. They begin to lay their eggs in the Eco Earth. I allow them to lay for about a week and then transfer the container to another empty bin heated at 85 F. I check the egg container daily to make sure the Eco Earth remains moist. In about 2 weeks the eggs begin to hatch and you'll have tiny crickets running around.

    I transfer one of these Plastic Food Storage Containers with Lids 9x12 Ovenware GladWare®containers: Plastic Food Storage Containers with Lids ? 9x12 Ovenware GladWare® | Glad®

    into one of these large Rubbermaid bins: Rubbermaid Roughneck Storage Box in Steel Gray: Office : Walmart.com (link needs fixing)

    • I cut out a piece of the lid and staple a piece of wire mesh.
    • I use a 75 watt moonlight bulb to keep it warm.
    • I keep the adult crickets at 85 F too. The adult crickets are contained in a 10 gallon aquarium.
    • I apply a layer of Insect-a-Slip Insect Barrier of about 3 inches on all Rubbermaid-type tubs regardless of how slick the interior is. Vaseline gets too dirty and it's a pain when cleaning the tub time comes around.
    • (Does not use the 9 x 12 inch lids)

    Insect-a-Slip Insect Barrier...read the cautions:

    *- Product Details"

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Edit: As long as a Sterilite tub (or similar) with slick sides is used, the crickets will NOT be able climb the sides. Therefore Insect-a-Slip or vaseline will not be needed.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 03:01 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Gixxer450, Alix411 thanked for this post
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  4. #4
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    Lightbulb #3---Cricket Guidelines -- November 2020 (update)

    Dry Diet: For the 24/7 dry cricket diet use a good food (~16% protein, less than 5% fat, moderate fiber) that also contains vitamin D3, vitamin A acetate (retinol) or vitamin A palmitate, and vitamin B12!

    Finely grind these pellets in a Krups coffee/spice grinder or place the pellets in a plastic bag and pound them with a hammer.
    • ***Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food*** OR
    • (Already ground) Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload Insect Diet OR
    • Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed OR
    • Purina Layena Crumbles


    Water Crystal/Gel Alert! -- June 2019
    I continue to read significant cautions about water crystals from very experienced keepers. Dehydrated water crystals have been found in the guts of deceased animals. Instead I use a couple layers of moist paper towels to provide moisture for crickets and dubia.
    Diatomaceous Earth Alert!
    Some chicken feeds contain diatomaceous earth. If diatomaceous earth is in a product, it should be listed on the label!

    I only recommend Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed or Purina Layena Crumbles poultry feed, because they don't contain diatomaceous earth. If you cannot find those in the USA, don't buy poultry feed.

    "Diatomaceous earth is a natural antiparasitic for bird flocks. If ingested by insects, diatomaceous earth is fatal. The microscopic diatoms cut up insects' insides and cause a nasty death. It is also used topically for insect infestations as it will cut through exoskeletons or soft bodied worms and cause "bleed out." I have not read of anyone accidentally using a chicken feed with it in there and what effects it had on a colony of roaches/crickets/mealworms, et cetera, but I believe better safe than sorry and to warn people of it in case someone wants to use a different brand."

    Quoted from hmarie186 -- 1 February 2015
    By following these tips it's easy to keep your crickets alive and thriving 1-2 months past purchase:
    • Crickets live about 9 weeks.
    • Keep them at normal room temps (68-74*F, 20-23.3*C).
    • Unbox your crickets as soon as they reach room temperature.
    • Take a 56 quart Sterilite plastic bin or an extra large Kritter Keeper.
    • Empty crickets into the container.
    • Place finely ground Zoo Med's Natural ADULT Bearded Dragon Food, Albers' All Purpose Poultry Feed, or Purina Layena Crumbles on the floor of the container OR in shallow ridged lids like Jif blue peanut butter lids).
    • Then alternate 4-5 half flats "standing upright" and back-to-back, front-to-front, back-to-back, and so on. The more space crickets have, the less they will die from overheating (heat encapsulation effect).
    • Place 2 layers of paper towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Once daily thoroughly moisten the paper towels under the faucet and squeeze out excess water OR mist the paper towels with water.
    • Replace the wet paper towels on top of the egg cartons.
    • Then place collard greens or dandelion flowers/greens in a small dish next to the cricket food. Use veggies/fruits high in calcium and low in phosphorus.
    • A lid of wet Eco Earth's coco fiber also keeps crickets hydrated.
    • Keep the dry food dry to avoid mold and to keep vitamins and other nutrients viable.
    • Every so often use a small whisk broom to remove cricket feces and dead crickets.
    • In addition Armstrong's Crickets suggests lightly roughing up the lower sides of these bins with sandpaper to give crickets more space to hang out.
    • Cricket water dispensers and spare parts can be purchased from Armstrong's.
    • Always freeze (or otherwise destroy) all uneaten insects or worms from any gecko's enclosure. Do not toss uneaten insects or worms back in with the colony OR feed them to other geckos! This prevents bacteria or parasites from spreading.

    High calcium/low phosphorus leafy greens like collard, mustard, and turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens in a dish off to the side are excellent additions to dry insect and worm diets. Besides the actual vitamins, they add moisture.

    To check nutrient levels (calcium, phosphorus, et cetera) of many foods enter the particular food on this United States Department of Agriculture link: Foods List
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 02:04 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Zux, Gixxer450 thanked for this post
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  5. #5
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    Lightbulb #4---Common Mealworm & Superworm Beddings -- Use something else!

    See below for low phosphorus mealworm and superworm bedding recommendations.


    We wish to approximate a 1.5-2.0 calcium : 1.0 phosphorus ratio with the insects and worms we feed our geckos.

    With the exception of Phoenix worms (BSFL) all the bugs and worms we feed our geckos are much higher in phosphorus than calcium. Phosphorus impairs the absorption of calcium. Feeding high phosphorus foods to the bugs/worms makes correcting that imbalance impossible. That's why supplements containing very low amounts of phosphorus as well as very low phosphorus content in the feeders' diets are important.

    We lightly dust bugs and worms to correct this imbalance. Dusting should be secondary. Build a better feeder body! Feed bugs and worms the highest quality dry diet possible 24/7 + add low phosphorus/high calcium veggies in a dish off to the side (for example: pesticide-free collard greens and dandelion greens).

    Wheat germ, wheat bran, and oats contain HUGE amounts of phosphorus in comparison to calcium. Check out the ratios! I don't recommend the following beddings either for keeping or for breeding mealworms or superworms.

    EXAMPLES OF HIGH PHOSPHORUS MEALWORM BEDDINGS!
    Click: Foods List
    Enter some food like wheat germ
    Scroll down for calcium and phosphorus per 100 grams and compare

    • Wheat Germ -- Show Foods
      calcium 39
      phosphorus 842
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 22 parts phosphorus

    • Wheat Bran -- Show Foods
      calcium 73
      phosphorus 1,013
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 14 parts phosphorus

    • Oats -- Show Foods
      calcium 54
      phosphorus 523
      ratio: 1 part calcium : 10 parts phosphorus
    Kretschmer's Wheat Germ is commonly sold in the USA.


    WHAT CAN BE USED INSTEAD? Here are some low phosphorus mealworm and superworm dry diets and beddings sold in the USA.

    Finely grind the following foods in a Krups coffee/spice grinder or place them in a tough plastic bag and pound them with a hammer.
    1. Already ground ---> Click: Pro Gutload Insect Diet -- 1, 5, & 10 pound(s)
    2. Albers’ All Purpose Poultry Feed
    3. Purina Layena Crumbles

    Here’s a caution about poultry feeds in general.
    I only recommend Albers' or Purina Layena Crumbles' brands of poultry feed. If you cannot find those in the USA, don't buy poultry feed. Some poultry laying feeds contain diatomaceous earth. Diatomaceous earth is a natural antiparasitic for bird flocks. If ingested by insects, diatomaceous earth is fatal.

    Diatomaceous earth should be listed on the poultry feed's label if it's in that product.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~


    I encourage anyone who is thinking about keeping mealworms, superworms, et cetera, on a bed of wheat germ to check out the ratios of calcium : phosphorus first! According to this USDA Foods List, wheat germ is hugely high in phosphorus and extremely low in calcium. Judging by those numbers how could we ever approximate the recommended 1.5-2.0 calcium:1.0 phosphorus levels that way?

    On the 14 September 2015 I confirmed in person with an experienced Registered Dietitian that this USDA foods database provides excellent and very reliable information.

    For additional help click this USDA link: Foods List. Just enter almost any food in that link and then scroll to see calcium, phosphorus, et cetera.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 02:08 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  6. #6
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    Lightbulb #5---Gryllodes sigillatus: banded crickets -- males are REALLY loud!

    In July 2018 a gecko keeper told me that Gryllodes sigillatus males are really loud!

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Hilde suggests:

    "Get banded crickets. They do chirp, but it's so quiet, it shouldn't bother you. I regularly have 1000 of them, and they're nowhere near as loud as just (a) dozen regular crickets.

    "There's info at this link to compare different species. It might help you decide which ones to use."

    Click: New Crickets Are Here!
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-07-2018 at 06:43 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  7. #7
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    Lightbulb #6---Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms......thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013

    Click: #6---Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms......thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013

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    "Lettuce (except dark, leafy greens) is just water and nutritionally irrelevant. People don't even give lettuce to tortoises and iguanas because it's worthless as food. The same could be said for potatoes. Fish flakes are very high in protein and this can lead to a build-up of uric acid in feeders/reptiles and end up causing gout. A little now and then is fine but this should never be the bulk of any gutload."

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas."

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here's a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    ------>"As far as how to keep crickets, a large plastic storage container will work well, but really anything with smooth sides. On a large plastic container you can cut out a panel on two sides and glue on aluminum screening (and do the same on the lid) and this will provide plenty of air flow. Bad air is the #1 killer of crickets, along with poor hydration, so having good airflow will make the difference if you start getting into bulk orders of crickets."

    ------>"And I just dust mine using a large plastic cup. You don't need to coat crickets in a thick layer of calcium. Just put a pinch of calcium into the cup, get some crickets into the cup, swirl, and dump. The crickets end up evenly but lightly coated and there isn't any excess calcium left over."

    "Hope that helps!"

    (Last edited by Olimpia; 08-21-2013 at 02:03 PM.)

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Thanks to GU's SpottedDragon on 30 April 2019:

    "Yeah, I'd also avoid tomato, I'm glad you pulled it.

    "For explanation - it is a deadly nightshade, and the leaves contain a mild (in small amounts) poison that is meant to keep insects and grazing animals from eating the plant. The toxin is called Solanine and in mammals causes hypersalivation, inappetence, severe gastrointestinal upset, depression, weakness, dilated pupils, slow heart rate...in a reptile I'm not sure what would happen - but it could upset the system."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-15-2020 at 02:12 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks kholtme thanked for this post
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  8. #8
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    Lightbulb #7---Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms......thanks to Olimpia -- share version


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    Here it is!

    Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms . . . . . . thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-14-2020 at 03:40 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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