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    Default Twice dusting for food?


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    Above is a video I found pretty damn helpful on how to grow, care, and maintain your own Dubia roach colony. So far, I have almost everything save for the water crystals and chicken feed, and obviously the roaches themselves. I had a question about dusting the roaches. In the video he explains adding the Reptile Calcium to the roach food itself over dusting the food and feeding it off. I had three questions about that:

    One: Do I need to dust the food again anyway before feeding or by adding the ReptiCalcium (I have the ZooMed type) to the roaches food eliminate the need for messy dusting?

    Two: Can I use Calcium Carbonate Powder on the roach food to feed to them and later feed the roaches to my Geckos or is this a bad idea?

    Three: Do I use the Calcium Carbonate Powder to dust any of the insect food (and insects themselves on top of that) I give to my geckos or just provide it in a small bottle cap solo?

    I'm really confused on the whole "ReptiCalcium w/ D3" VS "ReptiCalcium w/o D3" debate. Do you use this stuff or do you avoid it like the plague? Or if you use The ReptiCalcium w/ D3 on your critters food, do you not use a UVB bulb?

    I apologize if this may be a common question, but I appreciate the answers I may get.
    www.catcubus.com
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    This video presents some ideas which are not good for many geckos: feeding dubia as a staple. The ideal ratio of protein to fat for many geckos is ~18% protein to less than 5% fat. Crickets meet these criteria. Dubia, on the other hand, have way too much protein to be fed as a staple. Dubia are good only to add variety to a gecko diet.

    Years ago someone recommended Tetramin Fish Flakes (protein 47%) as part of a cricket diet. That is "old school". Been there, done that . Result was a death of a mature male leo from severe hepatic lipidosis .

    The information shared about crickets in the video above is simply false. Kept as suggested below, crickets are good news for geckos and quite healthy.

    Gryllis assimilis do bite. Aceta domestica do chirp. Gryllodes sigillatus are quiet. If kept according to the following methods, there is no smell. Crickets can very easily be kept alive for 2 months past purchase.

    Cricket Guidelines
    Hassle-free Cricket Care
    ElizabethFreer@aol.com
    Geckos Unlimited/Pacific Northwest Herpetological Society
    13 May 2013 (amended)
    (www.GeckosUnlimited.com)

    Take a suitably sized container, for instance, an extra large Kritter Keeper or a 56 quart Sterilite bin. Place a good quality all purpose poultry feed, dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay on the bottom of the cage. Add your crickets. Next cover with a double layer of egg cartons. On top of the egg cartons place a paper towel. Spray the paper towel generously every other day. Keep crickets between 70 F and the mid 80s. They will grow faster if warmer, but seem to do fine at 70 F. If room temperatures exceed 85 F spray the paper towel daily.

    Spraying the paper towel is an excellent way to provide moisture for your crickets and save them from perishing from too much moisture.

    Feed crickets an All Purpose Poultry Feed (contains about 16% protein, 3% fat, & vitamin A acetate), dry oatmeal, alfalfa hay (“Hay-Kob”: 800-332-5623), collard greens, and carrots. General Mills' dry cereal whole grain TOTAL can be used in a pinch.

    If your source is pesticide-free with good soil, dandelion flowers and greens can also be fed to the crickets. To make the alfalfa hay easy to chew for young crickets, soak the alfalfa hay in water prior to adding .

    Do not feed insects puppy, kitten, dog, and/or cat biscuits OR tropical fish flakes. Those are way too high in protein and fat and potentially could cause hepatic lipidosis (fatty liver disease).

    Do not feed dead/canned crickets to geckos. Any gecko gets moisture from well-hydrated prey as well as the nutrients such prey provides.

    By following these recommendations it is quite easy to keep your crickets alive and thriving easily one to two months past purchase.

    Formally "gutload" crickets 48 hours prior to feeding off to geckos with T-REX Calcium Plus Food for Crickets.

    Gutloading the Feeders versus Feeding the Feeders 24/7
    The term gutloading causes some confusion. Feed your feeders a nutritious regular diet all the time to build strong feeder bodies. Then only feed a special GUTLOAD product to the crickets, for example, 1-2 days prior to feeding the crickets to your geckos. T-REX Calcium Plus Cricket Food is a good gutload food. Top off the crickets by lightly dusting with a multivitamin containing D3/vitamin A acetate and phosphorus-free calcium with D3 no more than 2x weekly.


    2 March 2013:
    Captured directly from Hilde's post #134, 27 Feb 2013, on "spoiled by crickets" thread in the crestie forum:
    "If you feed the insects a decent diet full time, not just a day before feeding them off, you really improve the nutrients they'll provide - build a better body, not just fill the relatively short intestinal tract."
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-13-2013 at 04:29 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Lightbulb Keeping Roaches -- another method

    ROACH CARE

    I breed Blaptica dubia in a 10 gallon tank with 5 vertically positioned egg flats trimmed to be just a bit shorter than the height of the tank. Albers All Purpose Poultry Feed (ground or not), dry oatmeal, and alfalfa hay can be kept in shallow lids to one side of the egg flats. Collard greens and carrots can be added occasionally. For moisture I dampen a clean medium-size sponge and occasionally spray the flats. In a room which ranges from 67 F/19.5 C upwards, I keep a 40 watt bulb in a 10 inch diameter reflector dome directly over the screened tank and on 24/7.

    Excellent link: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...-breeding.html
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-11-2013 at 06:53 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Thank you so-so much for this! I still have receipts for the fish and turtle food, so I can still take them back!
    www.catcubus.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by catcubus View Post
    Thank you so-so much for this! I still have receipts for the fish and turtle food, so I can still take them back!
    You are very welcome, catcubus. At the time I bought a huge container of the Tetramin Fish Flakes...the biggest possible..."industrial"/Costco size. At that time someone I know suggested that I feed my crickets those samples of puppy, kitten, dog, and cat food you get at some pet stores. Although not as high in protein and fat as the Tetramin Fish Flakes, those are bad news too.

    When I have info that has not worked, I like to share it.

    Glad that you can return the fish and turtle food.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-13-2013 at 11:37 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    I did have one question for you (Elizabeth Freer). Do you add any of the ReptiCal to your Dubia's food or simply dust them before feeding?

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by catcubus View Post
    I did have one question for you (Elizabeth Freer). Do you add any of the ReptiCal to your Dubia's food or simply dust them before feeding?
    I do not add any calcium with D3, other calcium, or vitamins to the food I feed my dubia. Sometimes I lightly dust the dubia with Rep-Cal's calcium with D3 upon feeding. However, I recommend lightly dusting insects only 2x per week with a vitamin D3 containing calcium or vitamin supplement. Some people use Zoo Med's Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-12-2013 at 04:31 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Please do not use his old method of dusting by putting the insect inside of the calcium jar, it's poor sanitary practice. Instead put a small amount in a cricket shaker Rep Cal Cricket Shaker or a ziploc bag which you can just toss out.
    Currently keeping:

    Eublepharis gecko 2.1.0~Hemitheconyx gecko 1.0.0~Gekko gecko 1.0.0~Pogana Vitticeps 1.0.0~Varanus exanthematicus 1.1.0~Varanus acanthurus 1.0.0~Blue Tongue Skink 1.0.0~Red-eared slider 1.0.0

    Reptiles I have rehabilitated, rehomed or kept.
    All above species plus:


    Phelsuma Grandis~Rhacodactylus ciliatus~Paroedura~Rhacodactylus auriculatus ~Hemidactylus frenatus~Iguana~Turtles ~Snakes and too many more to name!

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    I have two bottles of food spray I recieved when I adopted a leopard gecko and bearded dragon recently. They're both by Zilla; one is a Vitamin Supplement (w/ Beta Carotene - Zilla - Where Reptiles Rule Vitamin Supplement | Products) and the other is a Calcium Supplement (Zilla - Where Reptiles Rule Calcium Supplement | Products). On the label it says I can use these both for geckos and bearded dragons. I don't know how old this stuff is, but is it worth using either or of them on their food, or should I just toss them out?

    If it -is- a good idea to use either, do I use them both along with dusting or one over the other?

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