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    Default Leo will not eat dusted food


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    My daughter has had her gecko for several months the leo sheds and poops fine.The problem is she will not eat dusted food she has dust in her large viv and licks it when she wants.
    I gut load the crickets and meal worms but have stopped dusting food since she just ignores it will stopping dusting do her any harm?

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    By not dusting, you may cause that animal to have deficiencies on the long run and even a more or less severe MBD (metabolic bone disease aka soft jaw/bones or calcium deficiency).

    Some supplements don't taste very good for gecko standards, which one are you using? The problem is likely to come from the supplement's taste or smell in my opinion.
    "Thorr Geckos" private breeder in Normandy.

    Specialized in Ptenopus, Pachydactylus, Chondrodactylus, Hemidactylus, Ptyodactylus, Uroplatus genera, AFTs, picta, Gehyra marginata, South Americans, Ptychs...

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    Thanks for the reply.
    Nutrobal calcium balance & multi vitamin
    Nutrobal calci-dust
    I alternate between the two and she is just not interested the multivitamin is used just once a week.She used to take dusted food but in the last month she just refuses.Like I said she does lick the dust out of her bowl so not sure that it's the taste or smell putting her off.

    Its weird because she will chase an undusted crickets as soon as she sees them but is completely uninterested in dusted ones.I will add she has never been a big eater but her tail is nice and fat and she has just shed again.
    I was thinking of trying Repashy Calcium Plus.
    Last edited by Blackadderthe2nd; 05-18-2015 at 11:10 AM.

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    I don't use any of these supplements so I couldn't tell you if your daughter's leo could be repelled by their smell/taste.

    Are there any UVB lights in the leo's enclosure?

    Repashy calcium plus contains way too much vitamin D3, actually 5 times the recommended intake. Too much may be even more harmful than not enough as far as D3 is concerned, on the long term.

    I would try this one, readily available, cheap, and only containing calcium, and see if prey insects dusted with it are eaten by the leo or not: Amazon.com : Zoo Med Calcium Without Vitamin D3 Reptile Food, 3-Ounce : Pet Supplements And Vitamins : Pet Supplies

    All the best,

    Hervé
    "Thorr Geckos" private breeder in Normandy.

    Specialized in Ptenopus, Pachydactylus, Chondrodactylus, Hemidactylus, Ptyodactylus, Uroplatus genera, AFTs, picta, Gehyra marginata, South Americans, Ptychs...

    FORUM RULES HERE! PLEASE READ THEM CAREFULLY, ESPECIALLY NEWCOMERS TO GU! http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...les-rules.html
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    Quote Originally Posted by thorrshamri View Post
    I don't use any of these supplements so I couldn't tell you if your daughter's leo could be repelled by their smell/taste.

    Are there any UVB lights in the leo's enclosure?


    Repashy calcium plus contains way too much vitamin D3, actually 5 times the recommended intake. Too much may be even more harmful than not enough as far as D3 is concerned, on the long term.


    I would try this one, readily available, cheap, and only containing calcium, and see if prey insects dusted with it are eaten by the leo or not: Amazon.com : Zoo Med Calcium Without Vitamin D3 Reptile Food, 3-Ounce : Pet Supplements And Vitamins : Pet Supplies

    All the best,

    Hervé
    No the only light is a moon light.From what I read and advice given I didn't think she needed a UVB light?

    I read that too much D3 can become toxic and if I remember rightly too much vit A can be bad.

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    You're right on everything! No UVB needed unless she has a proven bone disease. Too much D3 and A are definitely harmful too, though vitamin A is in most cases present in supplements as a precursor called provitamin A, which is "incomplete" A chemically speaking.

    If you live in a pesticide-free area and away from road/cars pollution, leos LOVE to eat live grasshoppers. Just make sure it's legal to collect some where you live as each State has its own protection laws.
    "Thorr Geckos" private breeder in Normandy.

    Specialized in Ptenopus, Pachydactylus, Chondrodactylus, Hemidactylus, Ptyodactylus, Uroplatus genera, AFTs, picta, Gehyra marginata, South Americans, Ptychs...

    FORUM RULES HERE! PLEASE READ THEM CAREFULLY, ESPECIALLY NEWCOMERS TO GU! http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...les-rules.html
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    Thanks for the reply I have ordered some Zoo med without D3 and will see how she gets on with it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackadderthe2nd View Post
    Thanks for the reply.
    Nutrobal calcium balance & multi vitamin
    Nutrobal calci-dust
    I alternate between the two and she is just not interested the multivitamin is used just once a week.
    She used to take dusted food but in the last month she just refuses.Like I said she does lick the dust out of her bowl so not sure that it's the taste or smell putting her off.

    Its weird because she will chase an undusted crickets as soon as she sees them but is completely uninterested in dusted ones.I will add she has never been a big eater but her tail is nice and fat and she has just shed again.
    I was thinking of trying Repashy Calcium Plus.
    Quote Originally Posted by Blackadderthe2nd View Post
    Thanks for the reply I have ordered some Zoo med without D3 and will see how she gets on with it.
    There is a huge dilemma here. No secret at all. We walk a fine line because our critters are so small. May I ask some questions?

    Zoo Med's Repti Calcium without D3 may be exactly the same thing as the Vetark's Calci Dust you've been using...pure calcium carbonate. If so, any pure precipitated calcium carbonate source is fine.

    This one ?: Click: Calci-Dust

    How heavily have you been dusting? Lightly coated like a sprinkling of powdered sugar on a cake or heavily coated like a "walking snowman"? As far as dusting technique goes, I use the "swirl" method. I just place a bit of powder in a tall deli cup, add bugs, and swirl to lightly coat insects.

    Multivitamins (with or without vitamin D3) and even calcium alone can cause problems. For instance it is very important for geckos to get some vitamin D3 and some preformed vitamin A acetate in their diets. Providing most supplements via a good insect diet is best. Calcium carbonate needs to be provided with food for proper absorption; vitamin D3 is necessary for the metabolism of calcium; vitamin D3 is fat soluble, so it sticks around for awhile in our bodies (gecko bodies) doing its thing.

    • How much vitamin D3 and vitamin A acetate (IUs/kg) does Nutrobal contain?
    • How heavily have you been dusting?
    • What are you feeding your gecko's bugs and worms?
    • Age of leopard gecko?
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-19-2015 at 11:46 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Elizabeth,

    The situation is under control. The leo gecko we are talking about is healthy. No signs of deficiency, no MBD or else their owners would have told us. So, there is no need to make the owners of this gecko anxious as if they were doing anything wrong, which is apparently not the case. Please, not another thread which basically demanded simple answers and simple solutions which would end up on several pages with arguments far beyond the original aim of the question asked on this thread.

    I agree on the importance to feed the crickets, roaches or whatever feeder insects used at least 24 hours before feeding them to the geckos, so that the nutrients have time to be in adequate quantities inside the prey. This will be, as Elizabeth said, the main source for vitamins and minerals for your gecko, and that's a quite simple thing to understand: it's just all about the food chain principle.


    Blackadderthe2nd: maybe you already know/feed the prey insects for your gecko in an appropriate way. If you want to know how insects should be fed, crickets are omnivorous yet they eat a lot of various greens (avoid what follows for toxicity reasons: tomatoes, pasta, ivy, iceberg lettuce, cat pellets and cat food, and all plants known to be poisonous). That said, you can do a quick search on the forum, the topic on how to feed/gutload prey insects has been covered into details many times.

    So, there is no need for one more debate on the same issues.

    To do a quick search on the forum, scroll up to the page top, and look for a small symbol of a magnifying glass on a dark blue background, on the far right of your screen. In the blank field, enter key-words without the " " such as "gutloading" "prey insects" "feed insects", and the like. You will see, it does help and avoids repeating a thousand times the same things on the forum.

    Supplements are indeed to be used with care. Many of them are unbalanced and contain too much of this and not enough of that. Plus, none of them has the same contents when you compare the labels of different brands. That could mislead many hobbyists for sure!

    Still, your leo gecko doesn't feed in the same way than he/she would feed in the wild. There are only a few commercially available sorts of insects, while in the wild, all insects which are not dangerous will be eaten. Variety brings them in the wild enough minerals and vitamins. Since the variety is much narrower in captivity, supplements with vitamins and minerals are useful, chiefly calcium. No dilemma at all. No headaches. Just choose the best way to supplement insects by dusting them prior to feeding.

    Going into long calculations on the amount of this and that is not only boring but vain from scratch. Since nobody can control the exact amount dusted on prey insects at a given time, since it may vary from one feeding session/meal to another, since insects do lose a good part of the powdered supplements after a few minutes wandering inside the terrarium, good luck with the Maths!

    Bases covered: you dust insects, which have been properly fed before, with calcium carbonate powder, whatever the brand. It's exactly the same molecule, only the price and packaging changes.

    Since most supplements contain way too much D3, harmful when it is overdosed, and since Elizabeth recommended in another thread to use Reptivite without D3 from Zoomed labs, which contains too much of iron, vitamin A, vitamin B5, magnesium and others (for some of them, several times the recommended maximum amounts by veterinarian studies!), let's leave it here. Keep in mind some pet stores also sell "pure" liquid D3 vitamin with a much too high concentration; don't use it, never. It's a source of endless problems.

    Now if you feel you need a more "advanced" supplement which will not harm and bring interesting nutrients to your leo. The only supplement with a wide range of minerals (supplements must NOT contain phosphorous, if you want to know why, do a quick search on the forum!) and the right amount of D3 is Miner-All Indoors produced by Sticky Tongue Farms, I have used it with more than 100 gecko species (species, not animals, the count of animals would be much higher than 100!) over the past 17 years and I never, ever had any issue with it. Besides, it is made so as to stick to insects better and for a longer time than other powdered supplements. You can either order it online from Amazon, E-Bay and other similar commercial websites, or find it in reptile shops.


    Blackadderthe2nd, sorry for the long post, as a moderator I had to ensure that the thread remains on the right track. If you need any further help, don't hesitate to ask!

    Wishing you, your daughter and your leo lots of hours of enjoyment in the gecko world, and no headaches
    Last edited by thorrshamri; 05-19-2015 at 03:01 PM.
    "Thorr Geckos" private breeder in Normandy.

    Specialized in Ptenopus, Pachydactylus, Chondrodactylus, Hemidactylus, Ptyodactylus, Uroplatus genera, AFTs, picta, Gehyra marginata, South Americans, Ptychs...

    FORUM RULES HERE! PLEASE READ THEM CAREFULLY, ESPECIALLY NEWCOMERS TO GU! http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...les-rules.html
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    Thanks for the replies and advice.
    I researched and read extensively for several weeks before getting the Gecko.I have never purchased or rescued an animal without first gaining the adequate knowledge needed to care for it.This said we are dealing with a living creature and she will have her own personality.I have read of other geckos that dislike dusted food.

    I can keep crickets alive for several weeks and keep them in a large 2ftx2ft container as they dislike climbing on top of each other as this causes stress they also have plenty of hides .They are fed on bug burger,various fruit, a water source is provided(sponge in tray) and then fed Rapashy superload 24hrs before being fed to leo to gut load them.
    The mealworms are kept in the fridge and a small amount in a cricket pen where they can be suitable gutloaded.

    The leo has always been a sporadic feeder she only eats three times a week although she is offered food everyday.At the moment she has several crickets in her viv I have placed a small piece of apple in there so they don't nip her.She ate 8 mealworms this morning I tried dusted and undusted the dusted were ignored again.The crickets and mealworms are only covered in a light dusting.

    She is a happy gecko and very placid she comes to my voice and seems to quite enjoy a gentle stroke.In the last 6 weeks she has shed twice and as I said has a nice fat tail.I will post a pic of her.

    The superload apparently contains high amounts of calcium so she is getting calcium from gut loading her food.

    Last edited by Blackadderthe2nd; 05-19-2015 at 05:56 PM.
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