Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2015
    Location
    Portsmouth VA
    Posts
    2,004
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    12 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Since he hasn't eaten then that's fine! Once he does start eating it will be more brown with a little bit of urates. Any time it looks funny, has a different color or smells worse than it already does, take him to a vet. If I had a fresh turd I would take a picture of it but alas, Ziggy has not left me a present yet. Hopefully within the next week once all the changes are done to his tank, he will begin to eat. The little ones get stressed out more easily and take longer to get over it than the big ones do.
    "Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference." ~ Winston Churchill

    “I’m being extremely clever up here and there’s no one to stand around looking impressed! What’s the point in having you all?”-The 11th Doctor.

    1.0.0- Leopard Gecko (Ziggy)
    1.0.0- Crested Gecko (Axel-The Frogman)
    0.1.0- Guinea Pig (Brownie)
    B. dubia, T. molitor, M. quinquemaculata
    Thanks LeoAlex thanked for this post

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Posts
    5,358
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by LeoAlex View Post
    I installed the mini UTH for now, and I'll replace it with the bigger one when that comes in on Tuesday.

    Yeah I have the Zoo Med Dual Temp and Humidity gauge on the cool side about an inch off the ground. I only have the strip on the warm side, but the thermostat that will come in on Tuesday with the large UTH will go in on that side to control the UTH.

    Do you think keeping the lights on a timer and the UTH on the thermostat is a good way to do it? The thermostat probe would be low to the ground inside the tank on the warm side.



    I also added in a new hide on the warm side. This one is completely dark on the inside because it only has one entrance. The heating pad is partially under the blue hide--it's centered on the left side of the tank. I've moved the worms away from the heating pad and more towards the cool side.

    So far, the leo has been hanging out in his warm hide.

    I've attached a picture of the tank. Note the white ball above the stone hide. That is his first stool. Is the color something we should be concerned about? We reckon it is white because he hasn't eaten anything since we got him (except for possibly one worm yesterday--I can't find the worm, though I suppose it's possible that the worm crawled away).

    Attachment 36653
    Hi,

    He is in his water dish in that picture correct? It will be best not to use a heat source from above for heating in a 10 gallon. The area is too small, therefore can easily overheat and end up dangerously dry. He can definitely be dehydrated even if the urates are completely white. Urates alone usually indicate uric acid production is elevated. I highly recommend a larger enclosure which will allow at least 3 hides(including a humidity hide) and a more appropriate temperature gradient. I know there's so many changes suggested at once, but it's all in the best interest of your little guy. Hope he starts eating soon.
    Currently keeping:

    Eublepharis gecko 2.1.0~Hemitheconyx gecko 1.0.0~Gekko gecko 1.0.0~Pogana Vitticeps 1.0.0~Varanus exanthematicus 1.1.0~Varanus acanthurus 1.0.0~Blue Tongue Skink 1.0.0~Red-eared slider 1.0.0

    Reptiles I have rehabilitated, rehomed or kept.
    All above species plus:


    Phelsuma Grandis~Rhacodactylus ciliatus~Paroedura~Rhacodactylus auriculatus ~Hemidactylus frenatus~Iguana~Turtles ~Snakes and too many more to name!
    Likes LeoAlex, Zux liked this post

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cricket4u View Post
    Hi,

    He is in his water dish in that picture correct? It will be best not to use a heat source from above for heating in a 10 gallon. The area is too small, therefore can easily overheat and end up dangerously dry. He can definitely be dehydrated even if the urates are completely white. Urates alone usually indicate uric acid production is elevated. I highly recommend a larger enclosure which will allow at least 3 hides(including a humidity hide) and a more appropriate temperature gradient. I know there's so many changes suggested at once, but it's all in the best interest of your little guy. Hope he starts eating soon.
    Hi cricket4u!

    Yes that's hm by his water dish, though he is perched atop the steps, not in it. I've attached a picture of him doing that below! It seems he likes that spot because I've seen him there twice now!

    We are definitely going to get him a 20 long tank at some point, but we can't just yet so we'll have to do with the 10. He has a humidity gauge in his tank and we keep a close eye on that to make sure he has plenty of moisture but we are looking into getting him a moisture hide. He has a three tiered hide, so we might put moist grass in the bottom of that one. Alternatively, he might get a completely new moisture hide.

    The Leo standing on his steps:

    20151025_155950.jpg
    Last edited by LeoAlex; 10-26-2015 at 01:31 AM. Reason: Added the image
    Likes JessJohnson87 liked this post

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    21,165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    79 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Good for you. Your warm hide is nice and private. What type thermostat are you getting? Tape the thermostat's probe to a digital's probe and leave them both on the ground under the warm dry hide 24/7.

    Here's how to make an enclosed humid hide for the warm end. You can fill it with folded damp/wet paper towels. I would not use moist grass.

    IMG_0234 (1).jpg IMG_0235.jpg

    I don't know how accurate those Zoo Med Dual Temperature & Humidity gauges are. I know the cheap analogs aren't very accurate.

    Place the UTH on the thermostat and any overhead heating on a dimmer and a timer. There is NO wiggle room in a 10 gallon, so be very sure what the temperatures are.

    Lutron dimmers from Home Depot cost about $10.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 10-27-2015 at 04:30 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    6
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Good for you. Your warm hide is nice and private. What type thermostat are you getting? Tape the thermostat's probe to a digital's probe and leave them both on the ground under the warm dry hide 24/7.

    Here's how to make an enclosed humid hide for the warm end. You can fill it with folded damp/wet paper towels. I would not use moist grass.

    IMG_0234 (1).jpg IMG_0235.jpg

    I don't know how accurate those Zoo Med Dual Temperature & Humidity gauges are. I know the cheap analogs aren't very accurate.

    Place the UTH on the thermostat and any overhead heating on a dimmer and a timer. There is NO wiggle room in a 10 gallon, so be very sure what the temperatures are.

    Lutron dimmers from Home Depot cost about $10.
    The thermostat (which actually just arrived a few hours ago) is the zoomed one. I already have a digital thermometer picked out and I will add a dimmer to that order for the overhead lamps.

    Thanks for those humid hide pictures! We'll make one for our little leo soon!
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    21,165
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    79 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    You're welcome.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Posts
    422
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    7 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    The temp. should be around 90 degrees during the day on the warm side, 80 at night. There should be a third hide. I recommend tile as a substrate because your gecko's claws and teeth cannot get caught on it and it is more natural. The lamps are unnecessary unless the heat mat doesn't provide enough heat during the colder seasons. As others have said, it is natural for you gecko to not eat at first.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

User Tag List

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •