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  1. #11
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    We use just a piece of carrot or potato, because it's enough. Pro gut load cricket feed is expensive and not good enough in money/value ratio. Of course it is better, but the benefit isn't that higher. There is a lot of vitamins in regular fruits and vegetables. Get a decent multivitamin supplement (which you will have to buy anyway) and you are good to go.
    Don't store them in fridge, because they will not eat.
    Feeding JUST mealworms to your gecko isn't good. You need to provide variety of bugs. MW are high in fat as well. Get some crickets and roaches from time to time.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dandelion18 View Post
    Elizabeth,so if I replace the wheat bran the worms at in with pro gut load cricket feed, is that sufficient for a good gut loading feed without adding anything else such as a carrot or potato like others do? Also, I keep the mealworms in the fridge, and they don't look like they even move, I was wondering, do they actually eat under those conditions?
    Lastly, what brand of "pro gut load cricket feed" should I get? I did a search and a variety of different looking foods came up so I wasn't sure what exactly to be looking for. Thanks!
    Here's the link to the Pro Gutload diet acpart (Aliza) uses: 1 lb Pro Gutload - Professional Reptiles. It's quite important to replace the wheat bran bedding mealworms are packed in. Wheat bran is too high in phosphorus. Phosphorus impairs the absorption of calcium.

    In addition to the Pro Gutload diet, Aliza feeds veggie scraps to the feeders as well. Just don't feed apple seeds or Bell pepper seeds! Those coud cause choking. The best high calcium/low phosphorus leafy greens are: collard, mustard, and turnip greens and pesticide-free dandelion flowers/greens. These greens also provide moisture.

    Mealworms will metabolize their food when kept at room temperature, but not in the refrigerator.

    Click: Mealworm & Superworm Tips......acpart, Hilde, & swisswiss -- July 2017

    17342539_1319514908116112_444175116466682477_n.jpg
    click to enlarge
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 02-04-2018 at 05:31 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  3. #13
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    Hello there, I wanted to cover a few things:

    I'm pretty sure she is too young to ovulate. 7 months seems like a juvenile still and I don't think her body would be preparing for breeding at such a young age. I've seen female gecko's that take years to get into an ovulation cycle, so I don't think she would be ovulating. It's very common for reptiles to go off food for a few weeks after being acquired. Shipping and being plopped in a new environment is pretty stressful, so it's very possible she was just stressed out. Has she started eating yet?

    As far as gut-loading yourself vs buying them fed, any insect you buy will need to be consistently fed. Feeding doesn't mean breeding and definitely doesn't require any extra expenses. I keep my feeder insects in a plastic kritter keeper container and put them in Eco-Earth for a substrate. Then I toss in a fresh veggies every few days. Good staple leafy greens are Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Escarole, Curly Endive, and Mustard Greens. You can also use de-spined cactus pad and cactus pear. Squashes are good as well, like Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Acorn Squash, Butternut Squash, and Spaghetti Squash. Those can be fed raw, you don't have to cook them first. Other fruits and veggies can be cycled through. An occasional apricot or slice of apple is fine every other week or so. You don't need artificial supplements for your feeder insects, especially if you're already dusting them with calcium and the occasional multi vitamin when feeding them to your gecko. Feeding your insects is a requirement, just like keeping her tank warm and cleaning her. It's just part of having reptiles !

    As it's been said, you don't want to keep them in the fridge. Mealworms last a crazy long time without being in the fridge and it's healthier for your gecko if the worms are active and digesting food properly.

    As a last little side-note, variety is important. Mealworms are high in fat and feeding solely mealworms or superworms can lead to fatty liver disease and obesity. The healthiest feeders are Dubia Roaches, Red Runner Roaches, Silkworms, and Phoenix Worms. Crickets can be good as well but the others have better nutrient profiles. Mealworms and Superworms should be considered more like a treat or a part of a varied diet.

    Don't get overwhelmed with the concept of gutloading. It's as simple as putting some leafy greens in whatever container your feeders are stored in
    My YouTube - all about exotic pet care and DIY's, featuring Ecco the Bearded Dragon, Rey the Leopard Gecko, Mallow the African Fat Tailed Gecko, and Bao the Dwarf Hamster/Winter White Hybrid

    Click on "YouTube" up above to check us out!

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Varalidaine View Post
    Hello there, I wanted to cover a few things:

    I'm pretty sure she is too young to ovulate. 7 months seems like a juvenile still and I don't think her body would be preparing for breeding at such a young age. I've seen female gecko's that take years to get into an ovulation cycle, so I don't think she would be ovulating. It's very common for reptiles to go off food for a few weeks after being acquired. Shipping and being plopped in a new environment is pretty stressful, so it's very possible she was just stressed out. Has she started eating yet?

    As far as gut-loading yourself vs buying them fed, any insect you buy will need to be consistently fed. Feeding doesn't mean breeding and definitely doesn't require any extra expenses. I keep my feeder insects in a plastic kritter keeper container and put them in Eco-Earth for a substrate. Then I toss in a fresh veggies every few days. Good staple leafy greens are Collard Greens, Dandelion Greens, Escarole, Curly Endive, and Mustard Greens. You can also use de-spined cactus pad and cactus pear. Squashes are good as well, like Summer Squash, Winter Squash, Acorn Squash, Butternut Squash, and Spaghetti Squash. Those can be fed raw, you don't have to cook them first. Other fruits and veggies can be cycled through. An occasional apricot or slice of apple is fine every other week or so. You don't need artificial supplements for your feeder insects, especially if you're already dusting them with calcium and the occasional multi vitamin when feeding them to your gecko. Feeding your insects is a requirement, just like keeping her tank warm and cleaning her. It's just part of having reptiles !

    As it's been said, you don't want to keep them in the fridge. Mealworms last a crazy long time without being in the fridge and it's healthier for your gecko if the worms are active and digesting food properly.

    As a last little side-note, variety is important. Mealworms are high in fat and feeding solely mealworms or superworms can lead to fatty liver disease and obesity. The healthiest feeders are Dubia Roaches, Red Runner Roaches, Silkworms, and Phoenix Worms. Crickets can be good as well but the others have better nutrient profiles. Mealworms and Superworms should be considered more like a treat or a part of a varied diet.

    Don't get overwhelmed with the concept of gutloading. It's as simple as putting some leafy greens in whatever container your feeders are stored in

    Thanks for the advice it was very helpful. No she still hasn't eaten anything other than her shed skin!
    Last edited by Dandelion18; 02-03-2018 at 07:09 PM.
    Likes Varalidaine liked this post

  5. #15
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    I have actually had 7 month old leopard geckos ovulate, not that I would breed them at that age!

    Aliza

  6. #16
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    You're very welcome! I remember how overwhelming and confusing starting out with reptiles is. Just keep on trucking and asking questions

    It's been like 1-2 weeks since you got her, right? She could still just be nervous. What is your set up like? Size of cage, lights vs heatmat, temperatures? And have you tried any other insects yet?
    My YouTube - all about exotic pet care and DIY's, featuring Ecco the Bearded Dragon, Rey the Leopard Gecko, Mallow the African Fat Tailed Gecko, and Bao the Dwarf Hamster/Winter White Hybrid

    Click on "YouTube" up above to check us out!

  7. #17
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    I truly think the best thing to do with a new gecko is NOT to handle it very much, if at all. It needs time to adjust to it's new environment, new surroundings, new temp setup, new feeding schedule, new feeders, new smells, new sounds, new owner, etc, etc...

  8. #18
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    @IHaveNoIdea, please keep it civil and refrain from foul language.

    -moderator
    [I]* Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli *Liasis olivaceous olivaceous * Blaesodactylus boivini * /I]

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aimless View Post
    @IHaveNoIdea, please keep it civil and refrain from foul language.

    -moderator
    ..are you seriously warning me, because I wrote "shit"? I don't think I'm damaging the innocence of any kids that are present at this forum (and there isn't lot of them I guess).
    Last edited by IHaveNoIdea; 02-08-2018 at 03:36 AM.

  10. #20
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    yes, because swearing is against the rules of this forum. I don't really think it's too much to ask.
    [I]* Morelia spilota harrisoni * Morelia spilota mcdowelli *Liasis olivaceous olivaceous * Blaesodactylus boivini * /I]
    Likes Varalidaine liked this post

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