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    Default Gut loading and feeding crickets


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    I was wondering what are good gut loading foods for crickets. Right now for the crickets regular diet I use carrots and apples, and I'm going to get collard greens and some adult Zoo Med Bearded Dragon food very soon. As for the Gut loading food, I used Fluker's high calcium gel and powder, and I did some more research and saw that it contained too much calcium to be a regular gut load, and now I don't know what would be a good gut load for them. I'd prefer to make my own gut load but I can't use this recipe Feeder Insect Diets & Gutload as I can't find Brewer's yeast or soy flour anywhere. SO are there any other homemade gut loading recipes. Thank you.
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  2. #2
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    Buy this one:
    91IdS7rL7tL._SL1500_.jpg

    Does Fred Meyer's carry Brewer's yeast? They also carry many things in bulk.

    Some people use "gut load" for the diet that fills the feeders', then the geckos', guts 24/7. Other people reserve that term for a special "very high calcium diet" (Mazuri Diet Hi-Ca Gut Loading formula) that insects consume 24-48 hours prior to feeding them off.

    Research has shown that Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet did not make much difference with calcium.

    I feed my bugs that adult beardie food 24/7 and sometimes high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, and turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers and greens.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "Lettuce (except dark, leafy greens) is just water and nutritionally irrelevant. People don't even give lettuce to tortoises and iguanas because it's worthless as food. The same could be said for potatoes. Fish flakes are very high in protein and this can lead to a build-up of uric acid in feeders/reptiles and end up causing gout. A little now and then is fine but this should never be the bulk of any gutload.

    "A commercial gutloading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    ------>"As far as how to keep crickets, a large plastic storage container will work well, but really anything with smooth sides. On a large plastic container you can cut out a panel on two sides and glue on aluminum screening (and do the same on the lid) and this will provide plenty of air flow. Bad air is the #1 killer of crickets, along with poor hydration, so having good airflow will make the difference if you start getting into bulk orders of crickets.

    ------>"And I just dust mine using a large plastic cup. You don't need to coat crickets in a thick layer of calcium. Just put a pinch of calcium into the cup, get some crickets into the cup, swirl, and dump. The crickets end up evenly but lightly coated and there isn't any excess calcium left over."

    "Hope that helps!"

    (Last edited by Olimpia; 08-21-2013 at 02:03 PM.)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-28-2018 at 04:31 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Spotty the Leopard Gecko thanked for this post

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Buy this one:
    91IdS7rL7tL._SL1500_.jpg

    Does Fred Meyer's carry Brewer's yeast? They also carry many things in bulk.

    Some people use "gut load" for the diet that fills the feeders', then the geckos', guts 24/7. Other people reserve that term for a special "very high calcium diet" (Mazuri Diet Hi-Ca Gut Loading formula) that insects consume 24-48 hours prior to feeding them off.

    Research has shown that Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet did not make much difference with calcium.

    I feed my bugs that adult beardie food 24/7 and sometimes high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, and turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers and greens.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "Lettuce (except dark, leafy greens) is just water and nutritionally irrelevant. People don't even give lettuce to tortoises and iguanas because it's worthless as food. The same could be said for potatoes. Fish flakes are very high in protein and this can lead to a build-up of uric acid in feeders/reptiles and end up causing gout. A little now and then is fine but this should never be the bulk of any gutload.

    "A commercial gutloading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.



    ------>"As far as how to keep crickets, a large plastic storage container will work well, but really anything with smooth sides. On a large plastic container you can cut out a panel on two sides and glue on aluminum screening (and do the same on the lid) and this will provide plenty of air flow. Bad air is the #1 killer of crickets, along with poor hydration, so having good airflow will make the difference if you start getting into bulk orders of crickets.

    ------>"And I just dust mine using a large plastic cup. You don't need to coat crickets in a thick layer of calcium. Just put a pinch of calcium into the cup, get some crickets into the cup, swirl, and dump. The crickets end up evenly but lightly coated and there isn't any excess calcium left over."

    "Hope that helps!"

    (Last edited by Olimpia; 08-21-2013 at 02:03 PM.)
    I just got the Zoo Med Adult Bearded Dragon food and some collard greens. So should I just leave the bearded dragon food in there at all times as well as collard greens, and occasional carrots? Will this be suitable?
    1.0.0 Leopard Gecko
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Buy this one:
    91IdS7rL7tL._SL1500_.jpg

    Does Fred Meyer's carry Brewer's yeast? They also carry many things in bulk.

    Some people use "gut load" for the diet that fills the feeders', then the geckos', guts 24/7. Other people reserve that term for a special "very high calcium diet" (Mazuri Diet Hi-Ca Gut Loading formula) that insects consume 24-48 hours prior to feeding them off.

    Research has shown that Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Diet did not make much difference with calcium.

    I feed my bugs that adult beardie food 24/7 and sometimes high calcium, low phosphorus, leafy greens: collard, mustard, and turnip greens, and pesticide-free dandelion flowers and greens.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "Lettuce (except dark, leafy greens) is just water and nutritionally irrelevant. People don't even give lettuce to tortoises and iguanas because it's worthless as food. The same could be said for potatoes. Fish flakes are very high in protein and this can lead to a build-up of uric acid in feeders/reptiles and end up causing gout. A little now and then is fine but this should never be the bulk of any gutload.

    "A commercial gutloading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.



    ------>"As far as how to keep crickets, a large plastic storage container will work well, but really anything with smooth sides. On a large plastic container you can cut out a panel on two sides and glue on aluminum screening (and do the same on the lid) and this will provide plenty of air flow. Bad air is the #1 killer of crickets, along with poor hydration, so having good airflow will make the difference if you start getting into bulk orders of crickets.

    ------>"And I just dust mine using a large plastic cup. You don't need to coat crickets in a thick layer of calcium. Just put a pinch of calcium into the cup, get some crickets into the cup, swirl, and dump. The crickets end up evenly but lightly coated and there isn't any excess calcium left over."

    "Hope that helps!"

    (Last edited by Olimpia; 08-21-2013 at 02:03 PM.)
    I just got the Zoo Med Adult Bearded Dragon food and some collard greens. So should I just leave the bearded dragon food in there at all times as well as collard greens, and occasional carrots? Will this be suitable?
    1.0.0 Leopard Gecko
    1.1.0 Hermit Crabs
    1.0.0 Rhodesian Ridgeback
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    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spotty the Leopard Gecko View Post
    I just got the Zoo Med Adult Bearded Dragon food and some collard greens. So should I just leave the bearded dragon food in there at all times as well as collard greens, and occasional carrots? Will this be suitable?
    Finely grind the beardie food in a coffee/spice grinder first OR place some in a tough plastic bag on a firm surface and pound the food with a hammer. (I use a small Krups coffee grinder.) These pellets are too tough for crickets or dubia to eat as they come. Once the beardie food is ground or pulverized, sprinkle some on the floor of the insect container. Keep the beardie food dry so that it doesn't mold.

    Chop some collards and leave in a lid or a small dish right with the insects.

    Keep all foods available 24/7.

    I keep egg flats vertical for the crickets. For moisture I layer 2 thicknesses of paper towels on top of the egg flats. Once daily I thoroughly moisten the paper towels under the faucet and then squeeze out excess water.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-29-2018 at 03:27 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Spotty the Leopard Gecko thanked for this post

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