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  1. #11
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    He looks comfy to me
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  2. #12
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    They see quite well actually, at least a healthy one. Based on the diet you have described, he can be vitamin a deficient. Or have you tried feeding him with and without lighting? I can’t recall if You mentioned purchasing supplements? If not I would buy Reptivite and dust about once a week until he becomes an adult, then cut back. I’m not fan of D3 supplements(I used UVB), and so you can read Elizabeth’s caresheet in regards to Calcium with D3.
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  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by casaboaz View Post
    Thanks! I think it's partially because he's still leary of me. I went and got some long bamboo tongs last night. He is eating gut loaded, smashed head crickets now if I drop them in front of him and take away the tongs. I got 4 into him last night and 3 this morning. He also ate about 1 1/2 of the dried mealworms the previous owner sent last night. I think he's just used to having dying insects dropped in front of him. No poop yet, but with what he's eaten, I'm hoping to see one today.

    I can't afford the Exo Terra 36 x 18 x 12 at the moment (maybe in a month or two), but do see how it would improve the ventilation greatly. I have an overhead ceiling fan in that room. Would it help to turn that on? I am going to try and get a regular 20 gallon long with cover for him tonight when we go for more crickets.

    The moist hide came in last night and I put a damp paper towel and some damp moss in it. So the humidity is terrible in there now. He has no interest in it yet and it's more in a "medium" range at the moment, between hot and cool. But it's way too large for the tank and he doesn't have a lot of roaming room left now. I put up a hammock to give him another climber be he's shown no interest in that yet either. He's stayed on the hot end entirely since I installed the UTH. He was squeezing himself behind the red bask house this morning after he ate, so I slid it forward an inch. I think turning it around and putting a background is probably a good idea since he's wanting to get behind it anyway.
    Quote Originally Posted by casaboaz View Post
    Thanks! I think it's partially because he's still leary of me. I went and got some long bamboo tongs last night. He is eating gut loaded, smashed head crickets now if I drop them in front of him and take away the tongs. I got 4 into him last night and 3 this morning. He also ate about 1 1/2 of the dried mealworms the previous owner sent last night. I think he's just used to having dying insects dropped in front of him. No poop yet, but with what he's eaten, I'm hoping to see one today.

    I can't afford the Exo Terra 36 x 18 x 12 at the moment (maybe in a month or two), but do see how it would improve the ventilation greatly. I have an overhead ceiling fan in that room. Would it help to turn that on? I am going to try and get a regular 20 gallon long with cover for him tonight when we go for more crickets.

    The moist hide came in last night and I put a damp paper towel and some damp moss in it. So the humidity is terrible in there now. He has no interest in it yet and it's more in a "medium" range at the moment, between hot and cool. But it's way too large for the tank and he doesn't have a lot of roaming room left now. I put up a hammock to give him another climber be he's shown no interest in that yet either. He's stayed on the hot end entirely since I installed the UTH. He was squeezing himself behind the red bask house this morning after he ate, so I slid it forward an inch. I think turning it around and putting a background is probably a good idea since he's wanting to get behind it anyway.
    Dry mealworms can’t be very nutritious. I would toss them and buy live ones. Feed them well, a little of everything. There are recommendations in regards to gut loading on the caresheet as well. I rotated many food items. Things high in protein once a month tops. I’ve used Mazuri gutload s, Zoo med, vegetables and everything I can find. I was told once by a nutritionist variety is the key.

    In regards to him not interested in the humidity hide, it happens. Some just don’t like laying on moist things. I figured this out by removing the moist substrate and moving him in(with my hand)once so that he can see it was now dry. Well guess what? He used it dry! This can become very problematic with hydration and shedding obviously and the reason monitoring humidity in the entire enclosure is important.

    I’m surprised he hasn’t shown interest in the hammock. One of mine loved it when he was in the Exo Terra. He would lay on it like he was at the beach right in front of the ventilation holes. They seem to really like and be able to feel the air flowing in. He had half the tank cooler so it wasn’t that he was hot. After a while he would poop on it and start walking around. Guess who had to take out the hammock each time to clean it? Hope yours don’t use it as a toilet as well

    Ceiling fan for? It would likely dry things out even more and cause temperatures to fluctuate. Not a good idea.
    Last edited by Sg612; 01-18-2019 at 01:00 PM.
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  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by casaboaz View Post
    Attachment 46677 Sprawled! Does that mean he's happy now? Relaxed for sure!
    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

    Once your thermostat arrives and your leo's 20 long has been set up, then you can both sprawl! With a 20 long, setting up a thermal gradient will be much easier.

    I highly recommend an Ultratherm 11 x 17 inch heat mat for your 20 long. It will not be overkill. Ultratherms are tops!

    Right now temps seem all over the place! That's a "benefit" of temp guns. I think that's affecting your leo's appetite. The overhead lighting is producing extreme and uncomfortable temps! If overhead heat is necessary in addition to a heat mat you'll need 2 thermostats, because ground and air temps are set differently.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
    You mention the calcium with D3 was unopened. What brand is it?

    Your young leo will need:
    • Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3
    • Zoo Med's Repti Calcium without D3 (plain precipitated calcium carbonate)
    • Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins without D3

    Would you also like a recommendation for a good dry diet to feed your leo's bugs and worms?

    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
    (without UVB)

    Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
    Mealworms >> Tuesday
    Crickets or dubia >> Wednesday - lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium) without D3
    Crickets or dubia >> Thursday
    Crickets or dubia >> Friday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    Mealworms >> Saturday
    No food or free choice >> Sunday

    Future weeks:
    Continue on since all weeks are identical. . . . . .
    Sexing Leopard Geckos -- Leopard geckos become sexable at about 6 months old. Males can be distinguished from females by a distinct /\-shaped row of pores above the vent and by two hemipenal bulges below the vent. To see their vents, potential male pores, and hemipenal bulges gently press their bodies up against the glass. They'll squirm if you try to turn them over.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-19-2019 at 04:25 PM. Reason: edits to heating paragraph & additional highligting
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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  5. #15
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    More comments:

    • Keep your leo at his current weight until he grows longer. That's a good size.
    • Feed no more than 1-2 waxworms per month. They are supposed to contain vitamin C.
    • What are the room temps in winter -- day and night?
    • For a 10 gallon I recommend Zoo Med's 8 x 12 inch heat mat placed at one end of the 10 gallon, so he has an 8 inch cool end. Most of the heat should be belly heat, not overhead heat.
    • When temps are cooler and stable, he may use the hammock.
    • His water dish is best on the cool end!
    • 40-60% humidity is good for leos.
    • Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Food is not a very good product. It really does not contain all that much calcium. (I've used it too. ) Hopefully you bought a small container. When the crickets have eaten it all up, get some Professional Reptiles Gutload instead.


    For 33 click: Hornworm Care Guidelines

    For 81 (& 87) click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet (abbreviated) -- December 2018 update (show handout)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-19-2019 at 09:07 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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  6. #16
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    What side was the water dish on when you saw him/her soaking in it? It will benefit to have one in each side to help raise humidity and provide him with 2 water temperature options incase he wants to soak. If you have enough space of course once you move him to the 20 long.
    Last edited by Sg612; 01-19-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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  7. #17
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    Thanks everyone! He's doing much better. The UTH seemed to be the main key. 24 hours of it on and he's eating like a champ. Around 15 items a day now. Half in the morning and half at dusk. Variety of crickets and 4 types of worms, and not minding the supplements too much. Big normal daily poops. Other part seems to have been the long bamboo tongs. Clearly used to being hand fed but not trusting me eough yet to get that close to him to hand feed. So if I drop it in front of him with the tongs, he's grabbing it and gobbling it up now, no matter what it is and how alive or dead it is. He still hasn't been in the cool end of the viv nor the wet hide since I rearranged. Will work toward all of your recommendations as soon as is possible. It's definitely overcrowded in there and no place to move his water dish to the cool end at the moment. That's where it was when he was bathing in it previously. Next step needs to be the 20 gal tank. We live in a very wet subtropical climate. Getting enough humidity isn't a problem here. I'm more concerned about the tank being too humid and him getting a respiratory infection. It hasn't been under 60% humidity since I installed the wet hide and was running around 80% when I first put it in. I was able to get it down into the 50% humidity range before the wet hide and with the red 50w halogen overhead light on for part of the day. Nighttime temp in that room gets to mid 60s and daytime mid 70s. Our outdoor temps are 30s to 50s right now, so in a few months I'll be struggling to keep a "cool" end at all. It's not at all a climate here to try and keep a desert animal healthy and happy, but we'll do the best we can for him.

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