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  1. #1
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    Default Making sure everything is ok. Gecko not eating for 3 weeks.


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    Gecko is a female about 9 months old. Got her about a month and half ago. She was eating like a pig from my hands for 2 weeks then stopped suddenly eating. She will eat one cricket every 4 days or so and usually does not refuse a wax worm(no more than one a week, don't want to spoil her). She acts pretty normal. I have a camera on her so I see her every movement. She drinks fine. Is out and about during dusk and at night. When offered food she will not do the excited face and closes her eyes. Starting to lose some weight but not much. Poops look good when she does pass one.
    She has the required huts. UTH side is 88-91 covered by a slate slab. humid hut ranges from 80 during day to 75 at night(she does spend a lot of time in it) Cool end is about 78 during day and 75 at night. Everything is controlled by timers and thermostats. I have followed instructions for care very well in my opinion so I can't say what I'm doing wrong. Could ovulating last this long? She does not seem to have eggs in her. Tried grub pie, nothing...
    I don't bug her often and she comes out to see me but hates being picked up but i'm not forcing handling her since she does not eat.
    Any tips or pointer? Some reassurance would be nice.
    It seemed to have started when I got crickets from a store I usually don't go to. They were selling striped crickets and not the domestica ones. She ate some then next day stopped eating.
    Also my darn crickets keep dying in droves. They are fed zoomed natural adult bearded dragon food and collard greens. They have a water bowl with a sponge. I keep cleaning them but they keep perishing. THey seem to die more the days after giving fluker's orange cubes. They look fine and healthy but then just flip over and twitch and die.
    Sorry for the long post but I am over thinking everything and very worried. I just want a happy gecko.
    Pictures of the setup and gecko
    IMG_2741.jpg
    IMG_2742.jpg
    Oh and lighting is one 40 watt bulb to warm things up a bit during the day and a compact fluorescent 5.0 bulb but it is very old and quite far away so I'm thinking it's just making light.
    Last edited by Phanny; 05-22-2019 at 04:00 PM.

  2. #2
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    If she's normally active and not losing much weight, it may be ovulation and it sometimes can last for months. Do the crickets have egg crate in them so they have a place to stand (i.e. not on top of each other)? One of the advantages of my having a lot of geckos (62 geckos and 3 non-geckos)is that I don't have the time to obsess over whether or not each one is eating. I keep an eye on them to determine if someone is losing weight and needs some assistance (I sometimes hand feed). They are very hardy creatures. They can go for quite awhile without eating and will be fine, just keep offering.
    Some common reasons for crickets dying:
    --the ones you're buying are old (crickets generally live only about 9 weeks)
    --they don't have egg crate to stand on and they're getting in each other's way
    --the place that supplies them does not do a good job (I get 2-3000 crickets every 2 weeks and for awhile the death toll was very high. Then the reptile store switched suppliers and things improved dramatically with the same setup)

    Aliza
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    Thanks for reassuring me. I'm going to get a fecal done just in case. She has been licking her bum a bit.
    The crickets are a mystery to me. They have rolls of toilet paper and other things to hide in. I keep them very clean. The store I get them from gets them already in deli cups and I try to buy them the day they come in. They are frisky and happy looking. They say 4 weeks old on the cup. I've had some of them a long time and they have succesfully reached adult size with wings but some just go from acting normal to flipped over quite quickly. Usually the mid size ones are the ones that will die, small ones and big ones seem ok. I understand some can die and 1-2 a day out of a batch of 50 is normal but 2 days ago 20 went in one day. They look fat and healthy but start losing control of their back legs and eventually flip over and twitch. Too much calcium? Can't shed well? Seems more prevalent when feed flukers orange cube...
    Here is a picture of the cricket bin. Took out some paper towel pieces to expose crickets. The one on it's back is still alive but cannot move. 5 hours ago when I checked on them all were running and active, now 3 are upside down. Very frustrating. They are in the basement and it is spring so humidity in there is about 55ish,temp is about 20c.
    IMG_2744.jpg
    IMG_2745.jpg

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    I don't think this is what's killing them, but be aware that the clear cubes and the orange cubes are just water in polymer (and dye in the case of the orange). They don't have any food (though they do seem to last a long time in my house even without food). Get some gutload (Flukers makes it --it looks like powdered grain) and put some on the bottom of the cricket cage.

    Aliza

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    Also my darn crickets keep dying in droves. They are fed zoomed natural adult bearded dragon food and collard greens. They have a water bowl with a sponge. I keep cleaning them but they keep perishing. THey seem to die more the days after giving fluker's orange cubes. They look fine and healthy but then just flip over and twitch and die.
    Sorry for the long post but I am over thinking everything and very worried. I just want a happy gecko.
    (Pictures of the setup and gecko)
    Finely ground Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food + collard greens make an excellent cricket diet. My crickets gobble up this very same beardie food! Skip Fluker's Orange Cubes and other Fluker products.

    1. Does your Zoo Med's Repti Calcium contain vitamin D3?
    2. Is your Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3?
    3. Is your moist hide sitting on the heat mat just like your warm DRY hide?
    4. Can you get a much larger cricket bin: a 10 gallon tank, an XL Kritter Keeper, or a plastic tub and some egg cartons for them to hide?

    For 112 click: Updated Cricket Care Guidelines II -- 7 May 2019


    Here are additional gutloading ideas for insects.

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas."

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."

    For 2 click: Fecal Sample Collection Procedure
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 05-24-2019 at 05:55 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Phanny- Make sure to answer Elizabeth questions because the answers are important. I wanted to wait for you to answer her first, but knowing me I'll forget to come back

    She will eat one cricket every 4 days or so

    This isn't terrible as long as she is maintaining weight. I will add that I did not share the same experience ( I had what I thought to be the greediest leos ever), however it may be due to the diffrence in housing conditions. Less energy expended in smaller enclosures(limted room to burn) and narrow temperature gradient. It woul benefit your leo to increase these in the future.

    I would'nt allow her to go say more than a month without zero food. I would try changing food items often. I've read this result way too often in females: On gross necropsy, all geckos had a discoloured and friable liver,
    and multiple ovarian follicles were noted.
    https://www.researchgate.net/profile...ication_detail

    As far as the crickets very good information has already been given. More vertical space for the crickets to climb and get away from each other really helps(egg crates in an upright position).
    Last edited by Sg612; 05-24-2019 at 11:43 AM.
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