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    Default Setup, Pie, and Crickets...


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    Hey there everyone, got some questions, thanks in advance for any help!

    -My female gecko will only eat crickets. I've tried dubias, superworms, horn worms, wax worms, meal worms, etc, but she has shown me she would rather starve to death than eat anything but crickets. I know they are not nutritious, how can I make them better??

    -She went on a long stint of not eating and it was suggested to me to purchase Repashy Superfood Frub Pie. How much should I give her?

    -Also here's my current setup, how is it looking?? Ots a 20 gallon btw

    20220220_042624.jpg

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    Before we can give you any advice, we need to know what species she is.

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    Based on other posts, I suspect this is a leopard gecko.
    One comment about the original post. It's interesting that I read posts where the poster says "I know that mealworms/crickets/superworms aren't nutritious. . . " The only feeder I would definitely stay away from as a staple are waxworms due to their high fat content. I think all the other feeders are relatively nutritious. It's obviously ideal if our reptiles accept a variety of feeders, but some just don't. I think for those geckos, the best bet is to give them what they like, but every now and then, try something different. Some of them eventually do "get with the program". Here's an article about nutritious composition of feeders:

    https://geckotime.com/nutritional-va...aised-insects/

    Aliza

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    Did you see my post #12 on 2/24/22 on your former thread? I've copied post #12 below. Just scroll down to post #12 on this link. You'll find post numbers on the upper right side. IF you check GU messages via a computer, these replies are easy to read!

    In addition to Aliza's article written by nutritional expert Mark Finke PhD, here's a nutritional chart on many insects & worms:


    Liz's 2-24-2022 reply #12 on your former GU thread:

    1. Her tank is 20 gallons, I will send pictures of her entire set up since I have adjusted it.

    A standard 20 gallon measures 24 inches long x 12.5 inches wide x 16.5 inches tall.
    A 20 gallon long measures 30 inches long x 12 inches wide x 12 inches tall.

    2. The ambient room temp is around 75, I have the basking bulb and a indistinguishable head bulb I can use to get things warmer. What do you think?

    1. It's very difficult to heat a 20 regular from the top down, because it = 16.5 inches tall. You'll easily get overhead temps that are excessively warm/hot!
    2. Have you any idea how much space your heat mat occupies? "A little patch" or . . . . .?
    3. I recommend Ultratherm's 11 x 11 inch heat mat for a 20 regular. It's stuck on with tape rolls. Ultratherms are reusable. "Standard" heat mats that already have adhesive are usually NOT reusable, because the wires break when the heat pad is removed.
    4. Please show a picture of the lamp fixture the basking bulb was in.
    5. What do you mean by an "indistinguishable heat bulb"? How many watts is this bulb?

    3. Her cool side is 76 and her warm side is 85, she seems to prefer the cool side.

    Preferring the cool side is unusual. My leo only travels to her cool hide to poop.
    What is that room temperature during the night?

    4. I'm not sure what old style means, what is that?

    Old style =
    • substrate of tiles, non-adhesive shelf liner, or paper towels
    • simple above ground hides like you have
    • NO UVB
    • Use Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 instead of UVB on all feeders @ 1 feeding per week
    • Adequate UVB depends upon precise measurements of UltraViolet Index between the basking site and the bulb itself. I don't know whether the UVB bulb you have produces 0.5-1.0 Ferguson Zone UVI at the basking site. We've got a lot to figure out first.

    5. I have removed the substrate until I can make sure the temperature is right.

    What covering is laying on top of the glass bottom right now? Once the temperature is correct, just use tile, paper towel, or non-adhesive shelf liner for Thorn's substrate. Are you OK with that?

    6&7. I have include pics!

    Many thanks for your visual!!! That really helps me out.

    8.
    How about locating the warm end on one side & the cool end on the opposite side? Maybe place the warm end on the right & the cool end on the left. That way it's easier to get a distinct difference between both sides.

    Leos require a thermal gradient in order to thrive. That's 88-92"F max under a warm DRY hide or in the basking area to ~68*F minimum on the cool end during the day. The entire enclosure can reach ~68*F at night.


    I now have a thermostat and have the heat pad connected to it. I will order a better thermometer when I get paid this week. Money is really tight for me for the next week.
    Many thanks for buying Thorn a thermostat!!!

    I will order that pie stuff because she has not eaten in so long I'm very concerned for her. Her tail is still plump but I want her to eat.Attachment 50266 Attachment 50266




    • Let's relocate your UVB over the warm side, NOT the cool side where it now sits. UVB & heat go hand-in-hand. What is the brand and strength of the UVB bulb you have?
    • Please share Thorn's current image.
    • Please order Repashy's Grub Pie very soon.
    • Let's get that yellow Zoo Med's digital thermometer with a probe ASAP. Petsmart may carry that digital thermometer, so you might not need to order it.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-01-2022 at 06:07 AM.
    Click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Gekko kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (Phelsuma barbouri) ~ (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    -She went on a long stint of not eating and it was suggested to me to purchase Repashy Superfood Grub Pie. How much should I give her?
    Please make sure leo Thorn is as well-hydrated as possible prior to feeding her Repashy's Grub Pie. Gently mist Thorn's head. She'll lick the water off her eyes. Try that several times the day BEFORE feeding. I would not want her to think, "Oh NO, misting time. Food must be next." Another way to hydrate her is to soak her in a shallow amount of lukewarm water that just covers her belly for 10 minutes several times a day prior to feeding.

    Then make certain Grub Pie is thick enough to "stick" on her nose. First try an amount of Grub Pie the size of a nickel. IF she accepts that, increase that amount every day.


    PS:
    How nutritious bugs & worms are depends upon the gut load they eat prior to feeding them to your gecko. However, waxworms will still be exceptionally HIGH in fat.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-01-2022 at 08:04 AM.
    Click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Gekko kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (Phelsuma barbouri) ~ (Lygodactylus kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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