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08-13-2013, 11:23 PM #1
I Need A Lil Help With My New Leo
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I am a newbie here. I came across you forum while searching for some answers for my Gecko. Saturday, we bought a juvenile Leo to replace my son's fish. He LOVES this thing, which he has affectionately called Geo. Anyway, I did quite a bit of research and I still feel unprepared. It's been 3 days now and I have yet to see the lil guy eat. Now, I have a tupperware with a hole cut in it, and a wet paper towel and THIS thing he loves at night. He comes out of the log he sleeps in all day and right to this thing where he drinks like a mad man...but I haven't seen him eat. We tried crickets at first, and they are still running around the tank. I have mealworms on a very small plate, sprinkled with Calcium and they don't disappear. I have to throw them out and replace them. He has a water dish. A tree log decoration for climbing. I just don't know.
I will mention that the hot side of his tank seems to be around 83 and the cool side isn't even hitting 80. We have a UTH on the one side, and a day/niight lamp on top. We are using a pad that came with the tank as substrate.
Any thoughts as to how I can make sure this lil guy eats. I want him to be happy!
08-13-2013, 11:56 PM #2
Welcome to GU, many people that can help you here!
For starters you may consider taking a look at the Leopard Gecko Care Sheet I have linked below, it will answer any questions you have if you look hard enough
Leopard Gecko Caresheet (Eublepharis macularius)...demo video & 4 Jan 2013 update
It's only been three days, it's very stressful for this little animal to come into a new home with different people. Have you or your son been handling Geo?
It's best to take out any and all crickets within an hour of being in the tank with your Leo as they can stress out the gecko and even nibble on its toes. You should be dusting the feeders with a supplement containing D3 2 times a week. Zoo-Med Reptile Calcium+D3 once a week and Zoo-Med Reptivite with D3 once a week. You can also leave a dish of plain calcium carbonate in the tank 24/7.
What sort of thermometer are you using to measure temperatures? Analog ones are very unreliable which is why digital is the best way to go. A thermometer with a probe should be used to check surface temperatures.
80-85 warm side air temperature.
70-75 cool aside air temperature.
88-95 warm side surface temperature.
You will also need a thermostat connected to your UTH to keep it from over heating and burning your gecko The UTH should cover 1/3 of the tank and should be on 24/7 to provide proper belly heat that will aid in digestion.
Pictures of your gecko and enclosure are very much appreciated and welcomed
Last edited by GeckoManiac91; 08-14-2013 at 01:11 AM."When we strive to become better than we are, everything around us becomes better too"Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 Likes
08-14-2013, 09:42 AM #3
Thank you for reading and the great info!
My first goal then when I get home tonight will be to get the crickets outta there and toss. I HATE dealing with the crickets so I'm hoping Geo takes to meal worms.
I have a bowl of calcium in there right now. I have seen him eat the calcium as well. Maybe I shoukd keep the calcium and food seperate?? I have also noticed that he has been pooping...so maybe he is eating and I'm just not noticing?
I will have to invest in a digital thermometer I suppose. I am using one that sticks to the back of the tank that came with the kit. Also, when I get a thermostat, does it connect to the pad I have? It also came with the kit.
I will take some pictures also today as I clean up. Maybe I can get some advice on the set up. For all I know it's too cluttered.
Thanks again for the help. I'll repost this evening.
08-14-2013, 12:16 PM #4
Is the bowel of calcium in the tank with or without D3? Any calcium in the tank needs to be without D3 and just plan calcium carbonate. And personally I like using a separate dish. If the mealworms were to poop or something in the calcium dish then you would have to change all the calcium and what not and I think it's just easier to leave two separate dishes for food and calcium.
Poop is always a good sign The white part in the poop is his pee.
The kits are crap. Lots of unneeded supplies in there. What size of tank are you using?
The thermostat does connect to the heat mat. You take the probe from the thermostat and place it inside the warm dry hide. Then you set your thermostat for a certain temperature and it will turn the heat mat off once it reaches the desired temperature, let it drop a few degrees, and then back on again. The reason you will also need a thermometer with a probe is just to double check the surface temperature.
We look forward to pictures and hearing back from you
Last edited by GeckoManiac91; 08-14-2013 at 12:19 PM.
08-14-2013, 05:32 PM #5
That is a picture of the current set up. The Red Lid container is right about the heating pad...Geo is way up inside is log and didn't want to come out. To the right you will see his water bowl, food plate, and calcium cap.
This is the calcium I am feeding him.
And his night heat lamp.
And there is our lil Geo.
So I want to know, is the log too extravagant? Because it takes up a LOT of space.
And what about the tupperware with the wet papertowel? Good idea or not so much!
Any advice would be appreciated! Thank you!
08-14-2013, 08:32 PM #6
I'm assuming that is a 10gallon tank? It is very hard to get a proper temperature gradient in tanks that small and also doesn't supply much space for the three hides you need to have. A 20gallon (30x12x12) really is the bare minimum. As for the hides you will need a warm hide, moist hide (also should be on the warm side or in the middle at least half way over the heat mat) and cool hide. For the moist hide paper towel or Eco-Earth work very well.
Is that the only calcium you have? You need a calcium supplement with D3. D3 helps absorb the calcium however there is such thing as too much and it is possible to over dose on D3. I would also stay away from Exo-Terra products, Zoo-med is your best bet. Please look back to the first post I posted regarding the supplementation.
As for heating, I much prefer Ceramic Heat Emitters. They give off no light so they don't harm your geckos eyes and can be kept on 24/7. You may need a thermostat for a CHE as well If it over heats. Either way you sill need to provide a day/night cycle with 10-14 hours of light a day.
08-15-2013, 02:18 AM #7
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feces, urine, white part (urates). The urates should be white and no more than 1/3 to 1/2 the length of the feces.
Totally agree with the advice GeckoManiac91 has shared ^
Suggest you get a 20 gallon LONG tank so that you can achieve a proper thermal gradient for your new leo.
Post #36 following my Leo Caresheet offers suggestions for products for your leo habitat.
Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-15-2013 at 02:23 AM."Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain."
Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
===> URGENT: No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium EVER <===
Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Lygodactylus kimhowelli ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ P. tigrinus