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Thread: gecko poop
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04-28-2012, 10:38 AM #1
gecko poop
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04-28-2012, 11:39 AM #2
Hello,
If you are sure what you saw was blood, I suggest you take your gecko to the vet as soon as possible. Also take a sample of her feces to get examined for parasites. Look over GF's caresheet and make sure that there are no problems with husbandry which could have contributed to the problem.Currently keeping:
Eublepharis gecko 2.1.0~Hemitheconyx gecko 1.0.0~Gekko gecko 1.0.0~Pogana Vitticeps 1.0.0~Varanus exanthematicus 1.1.0~Varanus acanthurus 1.0.0~Blue Tongue Skink 1.0.0~Red-eared slider 1.0.0
Reptiles I have rehabilitated, rehomed or kept.
All above species plus:
Phelsuma Grandis~Rhacodactylus ciliatus~Paroedura~Rhacodactylus auriculatus ~Hemidactylus frenatus~Iguana~Turtles ~Snakes and too many more to name!
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04-28-2012, 12:35 PM #3
not to jump to the conclusions about going to the vet immediately, but i wanna know if it is possible for a gecko to poo very hard a little blood comes out, the amount is somewhat of a dot to a tiny spot of water. I would provide a picture, but for some reason my memory stick needs to be reformat.
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04-28-2012, 01:32 PM #4
You should not see blood at all. Was it really blood you saw? only you know. Your gecko should not be straining to defecate. If your gecko is straining than there is a problem for ex: diet, temps or health related. It's up to you to decide if you want to wait it out and see if it happens again or get her checked as precaution.
Currently keeping:
Eublepharis gecko 2.1.0~Hemitheconyx gecko 1.0.0~Gekko gecko 1.0.0~Pogana Vitticeps 1.0.0~Varanus exanthematicus 1.1.0~Varanus acanthurus 1.0.0~Blue Tongue Skink 1.0.0~Red-eared slider 1.0.0
Reptiles I have rehabilitated, rehomed or kept.
All above species plus:
Phelsuma Grandis~Rhacodactylus ciliatus~Paroedura~Rhacodactylus auriculatus ~Hemidactylus frenatus~Iguana~Turtles ~Snakes and too many more to name!
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04-28-2012, 01:46 PM #5
You can fill this out to provide me with more details and I will let you know if I see something wrong that can have contributed to the problem. However, it will only help prevent future problems and possibly not help if there is an infection present or other conditions.
Gender:
Age:
Weight:
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
Captive bred or wild caught?
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size:
Substrate provided?
What types of hiding places are provided?
Is there a humidity hide?
Please describe any other furnishings:
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? In the coolest part?
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad,
warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other:
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range:
List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
Are any of your other pets ill?
List recent changes in the environment, if any:
Diet:
Insects, list type?
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with?
How often do you feed your reptile?
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
Is the calcium in the tank with D or without?
Multivitamins?
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
Have you noticed any of the following?
Weight loss, Weight gain
Discharge from the eyes or nose
Increased breathing rate or effort
Change in the droppings
Abnormal skin color or shedding
Parasites on the skin or in the feces
Weakness
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04-30-2012, 08:32 PM #6
Gender: female
Age: around 8 to 9 months old
Weight: 43g since April 24th
How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): pet store
Captive bred or wild caught?: captive bred
Enclosure:
Cage: type, size: 20 gallon tank
Substrate provided? slate tiles
What types of hiding places are provided? a cool hide, warm hide and humid hide
Is there a humidity hide? yes
Please describe any other furnishings: a water bowel for drinking
Lighting:
Artificial lighting?
incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ? 60 watt bulb, only used when the cage gets cold
fluorescent (tube bulbs)?
Temperature:
Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type? digital thermometer
What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? In the coolest part? warm side 93 at average, cool side 80
What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad,
warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other: undertank heat pad
Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? at night it is around 75-77
Humidity:
Is the humidity measured? Range: below 50
List other animals that are kept in the same cage: no
Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months) no
Are any of your other pets ill? no
List recent changes in the environment, if any:nothing
Diet:
Insects, list type? crickets
Are they “gut loaded”? If so with? lettuce, apples and oranges
How often do you feed your reptile? everyday
Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often? dusted on crickets, twice a week
What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? repti-calcium by zoo med
Is the calcium in the tank with D or without? without D3
Multivitamins? yes
Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: nothing
If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
On April 28 i found a red liquidity substance when my gecko apple had pooped, but the poop was normal, no discolouration, and she wasn't hurt in any other places.
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04-30-2012, 08:49 PM #7
Does the digital thermometer have a probe attached that you can measure the floor temp with?
Is 93 the floor temp or the air?
What vitamins brand? How often?
Do you have the calcium with D3 as well as plain?Last edited by cricket4u; 04-30-2012 at 08:54 PM.
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04-30-2012, 09:51 PM #8
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04-30-2012, 10:14 PM #9
UTH on one side of enclosure on 24/7.
Daytime Temp: Temp right above heat mat floor 90-95 F (observe gecko for comfort level) If they spend too much time in the cool hide chances are it's too hot or the hide is not as secure as the other.
Air temp: 77 cool side- 85 warmest end max unless a large enclosure with various temps is provided. Most people need an overhead heat source to achieve temp.
Nightime Temp: 70's is fine for air temp.
Humidity will be best at 40-45 RH to help prevent shedding and dehydration.
Your gecko needs variety of insects. Every insect has it's nutritional benefits. crickets, roaches, silkworms, phoenix worms, baby hornworms, small % of mealworms and superworms for variety is okay.
Also try to find a quality gutload to feed the insects. Lettuce is not ideal.
T-Rex Calcium Plus Gut Load Cricket Formula would be best. Once you are providing a better gutload, Do not use Reptivite more than once a week. There is a risk of Vitamin A toxicity.Last edited by cricket4u; 04-30-2012 at 10:20 PM.
Currently keeping:
Eublepharis gecko 2.1.0~Hemitheconyx gecko 1.0.0~Gekko gecko 1.0.0~Pogana Vitticeps 1.0.0~Varanus exanthematicus 1.1.0~Varanus acanthurus 1.0.0~Blue Tongue Skink 1.0.0~Red-eared slider 1.0.0
Reptiles I have rehabilitated, rehomed or kept.
All above species plus:
Phelsuma Grandis~Rhacodactylus ciliatus~Paroedura~Rhacodactylus auriculatus ~Hemidactylus frenatus~Iguana~Turtles ~Snakes and too many more to name!
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05-01-2012, 09:17 PM #10
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I just have one more question, if i gutload my crickets with the T-rex calcium plus and then dust them with calcium D3 to feed apple, wouldn't it be a calcium overdose?
Not eating...
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