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  1. #11
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    It is amazing how going from a 10 gallon to a 20L will do for their happiness, mine was happier than a pig in poo when I moved him to his 20L....Now he thinks he's mister hot stuff.
    "Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference." ~ Winston Churchill

    “I’m being extremely clever up here and there’s no one to stand around looking impressed! What’s the point in having you all?”-The 11th Doctor.

    1.0.0- Leopard Gecko (Ziggy)
    1.0.0- Crested Gecko (Axel-The Frogman)
    0.1.0- Guinea Pig (Brownie)
    B. dubia, T. molitor, M. quinquemaculata
    Thanks amccan thanked for this post

  2. #12
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    The blue on the belly is most likely the organs of your gecko; in this case, the blue will disappear as your gecko gets older. It would only be impaction if your gecko quit eating and defecating for seemingly no reason. You should dust your crickets with calcium powder with d3 every other feeding and vitamin powder every three feedings. There should be a small dish of pure calcium powder in the tank at all times. The tank looks good, but I recommend a digital thermometer with a probe instead of the one that sticks on the side. I used to have that; the digital one is way more accurate. As others have said, tile is the way to go. It isn't loose, crickets can't go under it, it is natural, holds heat well, looks good, and is permanent. Hope this helped!

  3. #13
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    Help! my daughter and I just joined this site because her gecko all of a sudden has bright red palms. nothing has changed of the last year. please help!

    mark

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by evannieandclaire View Post
    Help! my daughter and I just joined this site because her gecko all of a sudden has bright red palms. nothing has changed of the last year. please help!

    mark
    I would suggest starting a new thread in the General Info, intro's and pics forum. If you could include a picture of the problem it would help us help you.
    Also, please describe your enclosure, temperature, controls, furnishings, etc. Tell us what foods you give, what supplements you use, and so forth. Every bit of information is important!

    Todd
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

  5. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by evannieandclaire View Post
    Help! my daughter and I just joined this site because her gecko all of a sudden has bright red palms. nothing has changed of the last year. please help!

    mark
    Have you a leopard gecko?

    If so, please Post New Thread right here: http://www.geckosunlimited.com/commu...g-and-heating/
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  6. #16
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    Hey all,

    So @Keeboard was right, the vet said that the dark spot underneath is either the spleen or liver. I was assuming that was the case, but it was still a relief to get everything checked out. He did recommend calcium with vitamin D EOD and vitamins without calcium EOD and also a UVB light. That seems like a lot more than I had read other places--I know there are risks to under-supplementation, what are the risks of giving too much, and what signs should I look for?

    Tiles are a great suggestion! Are they easy to keep clean?
    Likes amsdadtodd, JessJohnson87 liked this post

  7. #17
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    Leopards don't need a UV light at all, most never come out during the day to bask. Just lightly dust 1 or 2 crickets when you use the supplements, I would dust with the vitamin once a week and calcium twice. Dusting mealworms is hard, but I usually put a pinch in the bowl and kinda swirl them around in it, when Ziggy strikes at a worm, he usually gets a little and will sometimes lick the bowl. But don't leave a bowl of supplements in there all the time, they could get too much that way.

    It's hard to know when its too much and not enough, it's kind of a guessing game because every animal is different and will require different vitamin/calcium needs. As long as you give them something, then they will be fine. Tiles are easier to keep clean but you still have to take them out and thoroughly clean them, have extra tile around so while the other is gassing off from the cleaning, you have something to put in there.
    Last edited by JessJohnson87; 11-13-2015 at 10:20 AM.
    "Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference." ~ Winston Churchill

    “I’m being extremely clever up here and there’s no one to stand around looking impressed! What’s the point in having you all?”-The 11th Doctor.

    1.0.0- Leopard Gecko (Ziggy)
    1.0.0- Crested Gecko (Axel-The Frogman)
    0.1.0- Guinea Pig (Brownie)
    B. dubia, T. molitor, M. quinquemaculata

  8. #18
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    I am very concerned that a vet would recommend both UVB lighting and vitamin D supplementation. UVB causes the body to synthesize vitamind D. So doing both would result in too much, and that causes ill effects as well. As Jess wrote above, leo's don't generally bask, which is why we have to supplement in the first place. In my opinion, at the very least the UVB light is a waste of money, and in the end may be harmful to your pets overall health.

    Todd
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post
    Likes Elizabeth Freer, JessJohnson87 liked this post

  9. #19
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    I just realized I left the question about the tiles hanging.
    The ones I have placed in my tanks are quite easy to clean, I lift them out, scrape them into a trash bag, and rinse them in a bucket of hot water. Once every month or two, I soak them in 10 to 1 water and bleach for an hour, then soak them in plain water overnight and let them air dry the next day to allow them to air off.

    Todd

  10. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by amccan View Post
    Hey all,

    So @Keeboard was right, the vet said that the dark spot underneath is either the spleen or liver. I was assuming that was the case, but it was still a relief to get everything checked out. He did recommend calcium with vitamin D EOD and vitamins without calcium EOD and also a UVB light. That seems like a lot more than I had read other places--I know there are risks to under-supplementation, what are the risks of giving too much, and what signs should I look for?

    Tiles are a great suggestion! Are they easy to keep clean?
    , it's not impaction.

    Each brand of a supplement is different. Have you some right now? If not, let us give you some suggestions.

    As Todd mentions, using a powdered calcium (or multivitamin) supplement that contains vitamin D3 along with any type of UV lighting is NOT advised at all. It's either/or. If you opt for calcium with D3, then your multivitamin should not contain D3. In vivariums under 4 feet long and because leos are crepuscular, it's hard to tell if a leo gets "enough" UVB. That's the risk. Most nutrition should come from the diet your leo eats. So what are you feeding the bugs and worms?

    @cricket4u does use UVB for her leos. She recommends 4 foot long enclosures as the minimum length for providing UVB for leos. Please see post 84 following my leo guidelines for cricket4u's leo setup specs.

    Maybe @JIMI will see this. She's also built a long vivarium for her leo and uses UVB.

    Roughly textured tiles or slate make a great substrate. They are very easy to clean. They conduct heat well from a UTH, are safe, attractive, permanent, and cheap. In order to avoid "hot spots", use a thin layer of well washed sand underneath tiles to fill in the ridges.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 11-13-2015 at 05:06 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Likes amsdadtodd liked this post

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