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07-10-2011, 12:04 AM #11
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If you up the food provided and check all your settings and the gecko's does not seem to get better I would go to the vet. When the gecko is really small they have so little fat stored in their tail in the first place that even short term issues (as you have seen) can really visibly change how thin your gecko's tail is.
I would move the heating pad to the bottom of the tank, on the side will help warm it, but you are right, it probably does not give enough belly heat. Also, is the thermometer at the top of the tank or against the floor? As the gecko stays one the ground it really is this bottom ground temperature not the air temperature that matters for him.
07-10-2011, 11:05 AM #12
Thanks for replying everyon! It was very helpful and if you would like to see pics go on my profile!
07-10-2011, 11:08 AM #13
If that is how your gecko looks now I would not really worry too much yet.
07-10-2011, 12:20 PM #14
I agree with the one blue gecko on that one. He looks to be a healthy size for his age. His tail really isn't that thin. And he is eating so I wouldn't get too worried over nothing. Just keep feeding him what he'll eat in a 15 min time period about once a day and he should thrive.~Kelly~
07-10-2011, 03:48 PM #15
Thank you for helping! My main worry now is that he is just eating "breakfast" and nothing else.
07-10-2011, 04:42 PM #16
I've always fed my babies daily. They don't have 3 meals like we do. It takes them a while to digest that. For hatchlings up to 1 yr of age I feed 1x daily. Over 1 year every other day. Something you do need to figure out is how warm is it during the day. He needs a hotside basking zone of at least 90.f. That's a really good temp for them to digest at. Keep in mind he needs belly heat at that temp. Do you have an uth (under tank heater) is that what's on the side of the tank? If it is I'd move it to the bottom. It's totally useless on the side. The cool end should be 80-85. Ceramic heat emitters are greAt to keep up the ambient temps and to create good gradients but both the Che and uth should be on a thermostat. A decently priced and reliable one is a Hydrofarm.
This will turn off and on the heat according to what temp you have it set on. It also prevents burns and potential deaths from accidental overheats.
Also a really good and cheap way to do the pure ca dish is to get a bottle of tums. Crush one up and powder it and leave it in the cage at all times. It's the same thing as the calcium without d3 ( but still dust food with the d3 cal) at 1/8th of the price.
Everything else sounds pretty good.
Hope this helps!
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07-13-2011, 09:41 AM #17
I'm happy to say that my gecko is eating a lot again, so his tail has fattened up. He also shed for the first time last night!
07-13-2011, 09:51 AM #18Trish
0.1.0 Eublepharis Macularius: Rainwater Albino Het Blizzard
http://s51.photobucket.com/albums/f358/Trish07/Alera/Post Thanks / Like - 0 Thanks, 1 LikesAmrgecko71 liked this post