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  1. #1
    Geckogirl500 is offline Newbie
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    Default Leopard Gecko NOT eating!!! Please help!!!


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    My female leopard gecko has been refusing to eat. She is around ten years old and she is only my third leopard gecko I’ve had. For about 3 months she has been eating very little, eating a cricket maybe once a week at best. I have tried all sorts of things to get to eat from dead crickets to live ones, mealworms, pinkies, and waxworms. I’ve normally fed her every other day and she use to have this gorgeous fat purple tail, but it’s shrunken in size dramatically. I took her to the vet about a month ago and they said she was healthy looking and recommended raising my tank’s temperature. I increased it to around ninety degrees and her condition has not gotten any better. She and her roommate, another leopard gecko around eleven years old, have gone through this fasting period before but it’s only lasted about three weeks at most and it always seemed to have occurred yearly, so I believed it was a hibernation thing going on. She’s never been in any fight with the other. She appears healthy, bright eyed, active, and no physical changes other than her shrinking tail. Her tank is around 18 by 18, two hiding spots, a basking light and UV light, yellow sand substrate, and one hiding spot has moss to provide a humid area. I’ve reread all my books and am completely stumped by why she’s not eating. Currently she is being “fed” Fluker’s Repta+Boost, insectivore high amp boost, but she barely laps up half of the measured amount. Please help me, I do not know why she’s like this!!!

  2. #2
    cricket4u's Avatar
    cricket4u is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geckogirl500 View Post
    My female leopard gecko has been refusing to eat. She is around ten years old and she is only my third leopard gecko I’ve had. For about 3 months she has been eating very little, eating a cricket maybe once a week at best. I have tried all sorts of things to get to eat from dead crickets to live ones, mealworms, pinkies, and waxworms. I’ve normally fed her every other day and she use to have this gorgeous fat purple tail, but it’s shrunken in size dramatically. I took her to the vet about a month ago and they said she was healthy looking and recommended raising my tank’s temperature. I increased it to around ninety degrees and her condition has not gotten any better. She and her roommate, another leopard gecko around eleven years old, have gone through this fasting period before but it’s only lasted about three weeks at most and it always seemed to have occurred yearly, so I believed it was a hibernation thing going on. She’s never been in any fight with the other. She appears healthy, bright eyed, active, and no physical changes other than her shrinking tail. Her tank is around 18 by 18, two hiding spots, a basking light and UV light, yellow sand substrate, and one hiding spot has moss to provide a humid area. I’ve reread all my books and am completely stumped by why she’s not eating. Currently she is being “fed” Fluker’s Repta+Boost, insectivore high amp boost, but she barely laps up half of the measured amount. Please help me, I do not know why she’s like this!!!
    Hello,

    Can you copy, paste and answer these questions. The more information the better.

    Gender:
    Age:
    Weight:
    How big was the reptile when you first acquired it?
    Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
    Captive bred or wild caught?

    Enclosure:

    Cage: type, size:
    Substrate provided?
    What types of hiding places are provided?
    Is there a humidity hide?
    Please describe any other furnishings:

    Lighting:

    Artificial lighting?
    incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ?
    fluorescent (tube bulbs)?

    Temperature:

    Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type?
    What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? In the coolest part?
    What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad,
    warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other:

    Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?

    Humidity:

    Is the humidity measured? Range:


    List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
    Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months)
    Are any of your other pets ill?
    List recent changes in the environment, if any:

    Diet:

    Insects, list type?
    Are they “gut loaded” or dusted before feeding to your reptile?
    How often do you feed your reptile?
    Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often?
    Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

    If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
    Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
    Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
    Have you noticed any of the following?
    Weight loss, Weight gain
    Discharge from the eyes or nose
    Increased breathing rate or effort
    Change in the droppings
    Abnormal skin color or shedding
    Parasites on the skin or in the feces
    Weakness

    Has your reptile been seen by a veterinarian for any of the current problems?

    If yes, when?
    Please list medications given:
    Please list tests performed:

  3. #3
    cricket4u's Avatar
    cricket4u is offline Senior Member
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    I will at least mention a few things ahead of time. An 18x18 is barely enough for one gecko, and you have 2 in that space, so that should be corrected. Sand and a low temperature of 90 degrees is asking for impaction. I suggest you remove it ASAP and replaced with paper towel or slate tiles. UVB in such a small area is dangerous and should be removed.

  4. #4
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    Please please answer to cricket's questionary, she´ll be for sure able to help you, and as she said correct some issues righat away, the sand is a very bad choice, please remove it right away!! They are NOT sandy desert animals as many people believe, and if you receintly raised the temperatures to 90 it means they were kept at a cooler temperature before, that could be an issue, they should have a temperature gradient, having a cold side and a warm side, and the warm side should ideally be around 92-95F, are you using an UTH or just the light?? That could be a problem as well, since they do need belly heat in order to digest their food and boost their apetite, they are nocturnal animals and lights stress them, they don´t need or want UV light, they´ll do much much better with a UTH, and being kept either or paper towel or ideally on slate tile
    Saskia!

    7.9.0 Eublepharis macularius - Leopard Geckos
    0.0.1 Phelsuma madagascariensis - Giant Day Gecko
    1.3.0 Hemitheconyx caudicinctus - African Fat Tailed Gecko
    1.0.1 Correlophus ciliatus - Crested Gecko

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  5. #5
    Geckogirl500 is offline Newbie
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    First off I want to thank both of you so much because I have really been worrying and stressing over this situation and just thank you so much!!! I just finished reading your posts after I filled out the questionnaire and so these answers are the current situation. Tomorrow I am going to completely remodel my tank and place them in a larger octagon tank with 444 inches of surface area and replace all the sand with paper towels. What do you recommend as a permanent substitute for the bedding and tank measurement unless the octagon tank is large enough? I turned off the UV and I guess I'll purchase a UTH light instead and what wattage do you recommend? If she does have impaction what do you recommend doing? Once again thank you very much. I'll try and post pictures of the tank and the gecko.

    Gender: Female
    Age: 10 years
    Weight: 55gm
    How big was the reptile when you first acquired it? She was a juvenile about four inches long
    Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): Pet Co
    Captive bred or wild caught? Captive bred

    Enclosure:
    Cage: type, I believe it is a Zoo Med brand cage size: 17.5 x 17.5 x 17 inches
    Substrate provided? Zoo Med ReptiSand, the yellow kind
    What types of hiding places are provided? A large Exo Terra Reptile Den with magnet that allows the inside to be seen; it has a top floor and a bottom. Also a ½ log hideout
    Is there a humidity hide? The log is lined with Zoo Med New Zealand sphagnum moss, soaked daily
    Please describe any other furnishings: There is a turtle dock placed on top of the log to provide a basking area. There is a water dish, cleaned daily. There is a rock in the corner and small flat ones placed in the sand. There is a plastic palm tree looking thing in the center. Lastly there is a bowl that usual has a couple of dusted mealworms and some food for them.

    Lighting: I use a R-Zilla circular lamp that has a circular uv light and a R-Zilla 50 watt bulb in the center. There is another lamp, a Zoo Med brand with a UVB bulb on one side and a Zoo-Med basking spot lamp, 75w. Lastly pointed at the corner is a normal desk top lamp with an incandescent 50 watt. The lights are timed to turn off at 8PM and on at 8Am.

    Artificial lighting? yes
    incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s) ? two 50w and one 75w
    fluorescent (tube bulbs)? A 10.0 UVB

    Temperature:
    Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? what type? Yes, a Fluker’s round thermometer
    What is the temperature in the warmest part of the cage? 110 In the coolest part? 80
    What device(s) are used to maintain the temperature? hot rock, heat pad, There is a heat pad underneath the half log that is constantly on
    warm room, heat light, ceramic heater, aquarium heater, other: just the lighting

    Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? Yes, the tank is normally around 90 degrees and at night it reaches 75

    Humidity:
    Is the humidity measured? Range: Yes, stays around 50% humidity

    List other animals that are kept in the same cage: Another large, 75gm female leopard gecko. Been together for 10 years.
    Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months) no
    Are any of your other pets ill? The other lizard seemed to have experienced this fasting period but she eats now
    List recent changes in the environment, if any: I the R-Zilla lighting and the desktop lamp and added a turtle dock so that they can have a basking area

    Diet:
    Insects, list type? Crickets, live are bought from Petsmart and gut loaded with collard greens, dog food, fish food, and oats and the dead one are Fluker’s Gourmet Style Crickets, and Timberline Giant Mealworms
    Are they “gut loaded” or dusted before feeding to your reptile? Crickets are gutloaded and dusted, mealworms are dusted and have food in the dish; I use a mixture of Rep-Cal Multivitamins and Rep-Cal Calcium with Vitamin D.

    How often do you feed your reptile? Attempt to feed her insects every day around 9pm; She is slurping up 3ml of Repta+Boost, High Amp Boost every other day, although I’m considering giving it to her every day. The last time she has eaten an insect was a cricket on the 21st. I just finished giving her the formula and she saw one crawling and ate it. Usually she shows an alertness to what I put in front of her but then she just walks away from it. Both of them use to be on a schedule of one day cricket, the next day two mealworms, and the third day nothing and then repeat, but I haven’t done that in a long time.
    Please list any supplements used. How are they given and how often? Repta+Boost, every other day.
    Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: I tried feeding her pinkies. She didn’t eat it but the other one did. I also tried giving her the pre-package crickets and that worked for a day and she lost interest in them.
    If your reptile is sick, please describe the signs and how long your reptile has been showing these signs:
    Decreased amount of eating; started to fast around December, has eaten very little since.
    Is your reptile’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? normal
    Is your reptile’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? Decreased dramatically; eating very little
    Have you noticed any of the following?
    Weight loss, Weight gain: Definitely weight loss
    Discharge from the eyes or nose: no
    Increased breathing rate or effort: no
    Change in the droppings : smaller, about half an inch long, and she use to have a bit more watery stool, but that went away
    Abnormal skin color or shedding : no
    Parasites on the skin or in the feces : none visible
    Weakness: no

    Has your reptile been seen by a veterinarian for any of the current problems?
    Yes, they recommended raising the temperature and changing the cricket diet to include collards; They said the gecko looks healthy in general
    If yes, when? 3 weeks ago, gecko’s condition has not changed
    Please list medications given: none
    Please list tests performed: visible examination

  6. #6
    Geckogirl500 is offline Newbie
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    This is Bluebonnet, my anorexic gecko, and the sucky tank that she has been living in. If there's something you need a picture of specifically, just tell me and I'll get it.
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  7. #7
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    cricket4u is offline Senior Member
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    There are so many things of concern. Did the vet check her feces?
    At this point her tail is not actually thin, so that's a good thing.

    Concerns: Pinkies, Waxworms- too much fat, no more please.
    UVB in small enclosure and a UVB 10 which is too high. (Remove)
    You were feeding the insects dog food. (never again please)
    First the temp- was too low, then now too high 110 is way too high!
    Remove sand and buy slate tiles and a UTH.


    You need a thermometer with a probe or a temp gun to measure correctly.
    Cool side 75-77~ warm side floor 90-95 / air temp 75-85 / humidity 40-45

    The vet would have known if she was impacted when he transilluminated her. I guess her liver appeared normal?
    How often are you dusting with D3?
    Last edited by cricket4u; 03-29-2012 at 08:49 PM.

  8. #8
    Geckogirl500 is offline Newbie
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    Wow, I can't believe I've been doing so many things wrong. Ok, so no, the feces was not checked, the pinkies and the UVB are out, I will NEVER again feed the crickets dog food. The desktop lamp has been removed so the temperature should decrease. Hopefully with the larger cage I can add more heat to one side and leave the other side cooler. I guess her liver is normal because the vet didn't say anything about that and so that good. And the calicium powder has the Vit.d mixed with it so each time the cricket and mealworms are dusted, they get some Vit.d.
    Oh, and @Saskia I do use a lamp and a UHT, sorry thought it was a light at first.
    Last edited by Geckogirl500; 03-29-2012 at 09:01 PM.

  9. #9
    cricket4u's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geckogirl500 View Post
    Wow, I can't believe I've been doing so many things wrong. Ok, so no, the feces was not checked, the pinkies and the UVB are out, I will NEVER again feed the crickets dog food. The desktop lamp has been removed so the temperature should decrease. Hopefully with the larger cage I can add more heat to one side and leave the other side cooler. I guess her liver is normal because the vet didn't say anything about that and so that good. And the calicium powder has the Vit.d mixed with it so each time the cricket and mealworms are dusted, they get some Vit.d.
    Well, the only thing he can see if the liver is enlarged. It does not rule out the possibility of liver disease or fat deposits. Let's just pray that is not the case. If she continues dropping weight I recommend blood work to check liver, kidney function and calcium level which should be be done on all adult reptiles anyway. A fecal exam should be done as well. At the age of ten she does not need D3 or Multivitamins more than once a week. I would dust with plain calcium the rest of the days. I recommend you feed variety of insects instead. Crickets, phoenix worms, silkworms, roaches, baby hornworms. These are lower in fat and healthier. If she is comfortable being soaked, I would soak her for 15 minutes a day, for a few days. Make all these changes and let see if there is any progress. Also read through these posts so that you can understand the importance of a healthy varied diet.

    Geckos: Vitamin & Mineral Supplementation with the exception of Vitamin D3

    http://www.geckotime.com/vitamin-a-d...eopard-geckos/

    Educational Links
    Last edited by cricket4u; 03-29-2012 at 09:51 PM.

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    Geckogirl500 is offline Newbie
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    Thank you so much for helping me and for taking the time to do this. I really hope with all these changes that she's starts to get better. I'll follow your instructions down to the letter and start giving her better care. Once again thank you for helping some random Joe on the internet who doesn't know what the crud she's doiing. It really does mean alot, and I'll keep you posted on the new changes that happen.
    One last question, should I gut load superworms along with the crickets? Or would they be fine as is?
    Last edited by Geckogirl500; 03-29-2012 at 10:47 PM.
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