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  1. #1
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    Default My leo has stopped wanting to eat and is acting very strange.


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    I'm very new here so bare with me. Anyways, I got my leo about 5 years ago from a friend who did not know how old he was. My friend had a lot of leo's and got this one from someone who didn't want him anymore but didn't know how old he was. Anyways, we thought he was around 8-10 years old when he gave him to me. So now he is probably somewhere around 13-15 years old.

    This leo has not had any major problems or sicknesses. He has had the occasional not wanting to eat or bad shed but this is much stranger. He might just be on his last leg and acting strange because he is old, but I'm not sure.

    On to the strange behaviour... I should mention that prior to this his diet has consisted of primarily crickets with the occasional mealworms. Anyway, recently, it almost seems he has stopped wanting to eat. He tries to eat the crickets I feed him, but he lunges with no desire and always misses. After he misses it seems he sees the crickets run away but just doesn't care to run after them. I have been having to hold the crickets in front of his face to get him to eat them. I also recently discovered that he has been going poop in his warm hide. Ever since I got him he had been going to the bathroom in the corner of his tank but he has suddenly started going in his warm hide. I couldn't find anything about leo's going to the bathroom in their hides randomly so that is why I am posting this.

    If anyone has heard anything about this behaviour I would appreciate it very much if you informed me on what is wrong.

    - Mat

    Edit: Forgot to mention that I do dust his food with supplements and the check the temps. Also that if photos of him or anything would help I can add them.
    Last edited by Mat42; 06-29-2017 at 04:48 AM.

  2. #2
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    How often do you dust the insects and what supplements do you use?
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    When I acquired him from the friend he gave me a rep-cal calcium with vit.d3 product. He told me to dust them every time or every other time I feed him. I have been doing that for the 5 years that I have had him.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mat42 View Post
    On to the strange behaviour... I should mention that prior to this his diet has consisted of primarily crickets with the occasional mealworms. Anyway, recently, it almost seems he has stopped wanting to eat. He tries to eat the crickets I feed him, but he lunges with no desire and always misses. After he misses it seems he sees the crickets run away but just doesn't care to run after them. I have been having to hold the crickets in front of his face to get him to eat them. I also recently discovered that he has been going poop in his warm hide. Ever since I got him he had been going to the bathroom in the corner of his tank but he has suddenly started going in his warm hide. I couldn't find anything about leo's going to the bathroom in their hides randomly so that is why I am posting this.
    Hello Mat,

    With age, most Leos slow down a bit, so this could just be a symptom of age, but it is a good idea to rule anything else out first.

    •What are his warm side temperatures?
    •Do you use a thermostat and an under tank heater?
    •Are there any sores in/around his mouth?
    •Does his limbs and/or jaw appear spongy or weak?
    •Do his poops appear abnormal?
    •What do the urates look like?
    And yes, a picture would be helpful!

    Changing habits usually isn't something to be too worried about, paring this with a loss of apptite migh indicate a problem. First thing you want to check is the poops, make sure they are solidly formed with a white urate. They shouldn't be green, runny or overly smelly either. If you see this, it may be a good idea to take him in for a fecal. If the poops are normal but the area they are has changed, it is usually nothing to worry about. The geckos know what is best for them.

    As soon as any of my Leos start to stop/slow down on eating I double check poops and start weighing them more often. If you see drastic weight loss, this could be linked to parasites.

    As for not eating, there are many factors that could cause a gecko not to eat. One is the too much heat or lack of heat, there should be an UTH controlled by a thermostat set at around 89F-93F. Belly heat is essential to digestion, make sure your heat source didn't malfunction or give out. Age also brings many issues, he could be too lazy to hunt, try popping the crickets in the fridge for a few minutes to slow them down or you can amputate their legs. It might be good to try some different insects such as dubia roaches, mealworms in a bowl or hornworms.

    With old age, another thing it could affect is his eyesight. Is he continuing to react to your hand if you put it in front of him?

    The last thing I would like to give advice on is his suppliments, Rep-Cal with D3 is not enough to provide all the supplimentation. Instead look to Zoo Med's calcium and multivitamins, I will add a suppliment schedule here;


    •Use Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 at 1 feeding per week. Lightly dust it on half the crickets or dubia, not every insect at that feeding.
    •Use Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3 at 1 feeding per week. Lightly dust it on crickets or dubia. Maybe only lightly dust half the insects at that feeding.

    Weekly Schedule for Leos 18 months old +

    Crickets or dubia >> Monday - Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
    Crickets or dubia >> Thursday - Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    Mealworms >> Saturday - no dusting

    Future weeks:
    Continue on since all weeks are identical. . . . . .


    Hope this helps!
    Last edited by PoppyDear; 06-29-2017 at 07:03 PM.
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    Hello, Thanks for responding.

    • The temperature of his warm hide is currently 92F. The temperature of the room is at 74F.
    • I do not have a thermostat in the tank. Only in the room. I have the heating pad that the friend gave me.
    • I do not see any sores around his mouth.
    • His limbs do not appear weak. He is moving and climbing around fine.
    • His poops appear normal. He is still pooping in his warm hide. Here is a picture of his poop if you are interested: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet
    • The urates are white and not runny.
    • His eyesight seems to still be good as he does react to my hand inform of his face.
    • Here are some photos of him: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

    The last thing is a question on the supplements. Does that schedule that you put at the bottom say that I should only feed him on Monday, thursday and Saturday? Also roaches are probably a no go because of others living with me.

    Thanks,

    - Mat

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    Hey again!

    The temperatures sound good but how did you find them? Do you have digital thermometer with a probe to tell? Even then, the heat mat cannot be controlled without a thermostat, the temperatures could be fluctuaing the beyond safe levels or levels to low that hinder digestion and could be a cause of the lack in appeitie.

    When you press on his jaw or limbs;
    •Do they feel weak/spongy or firm?

    The poops do appear normal, though the location has changed, that shouldn't be an issue if they are healthy. He himself looks pretty healthy!

    I never noticed how often you feed him, would you mind enlightening us? But yes, the schedule says Monday, Thursday and Saturday. I would say to feed 3 times a week, it doesn't necessarily have to be those days. What matters is that you use Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3 once a week and Zoo Med Reptivite Multivitamins without D3 once a week.

    Adults should not be fed everyday as in the wild they could go lengths without food, too much food can lead to obesity. You don't have to feed roaches, that is just another staple option besides crickets. The supplimentation is a critical component to their care and I would say to purchase those listed.

    Hopefully if you adjust the UTH and try some more variety he will end up eating more. If you feed him more than every other day, he could be full and not willing to hunt.

    Hope I helped!
    Last edited by PoppyDear; 06-30-2017 at 02:05 PM.
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    Since adults are usually fed every 3-4 days, I'd feed him fewer insects (about four). An adult Leo I used to have got overweight when I fed him 8 insects every other day
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    Hi thanks again!

    I have a digital thermometer with a probe in his warm hide. If i do need a thermostat is there a cheapish one you could recommend? Also, will I need to buy a new heat mat for that thermostat?

    His jaw doesn't feel squishy but it was hard to get a good feel because he would move his head away. His limbs don't feel squishy either.

    I have been feeding him every other day up to since I got him. (Obviously I would forget every now and again.)

    You have helped a lot in the 2 past posts! I will go and buy the zoo med products and probably a thermostat (if I need one.)

    Also, do you have any idea on why his tail is not pointy and long? It's been like that since my friend got him and he said he has never seen a leo with a tail like that.

    Thanks again,
    Mat.

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    You don't need a new heat mat. I use a zoo med thermostat and it works well, but many people on GU recommend one you can buy online called Jumpstart for reptiles and seed germination. It sounds like your Leo has a regenerated tail, they don't look quite the same when they grow back.
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    Hello!

    Most things sound pretty good! Keeboard covered many points, I will just add onto those things a bit.

    You have the thermometer, which is great! However it will not control the temperatures so yes, you will need a thermostat to avoid fluctuations in the temperature. I reccomend the Jumpstart one! As a side note, you will not need a new heat mat, you simply plug the heat mat into the thermostat and plug the thermostat in. The thermostat will control the power thus controlling the temperature using the probe.
    Thermostat;
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S...a-320548817996

    I think that when you get the new suppliments any worry of a calcium defincancy will be gone. However, you may want to decrease feedings to about every 3 days, he may not be hungry and have little desire to hunt. How many insects does he usually get per feeding, what size are they? Keeboard's rule is good but consider that all insects and Leos are different sizes. You can feed medium crickets and have to feed 10 to get the same amount as feeding 5 large crickets. Which is why I ask the size of the insects.

    The tails are all different, but from the picture, it looks like he dropped part of his tail and regrew it. The tails never to look the same but as long as he is healthy, his tail is too, nothing looks wrong with it.

    Once you adjust the heat mat and start supplimenting, things will hopefully get better. Is he still exhibiting the same behavior when you feed? You may want to try some other insects, glad I could help!

    One last thing, I forgot to ask the substrate! Could you inform us on that?
    Last edited by PoppyDear; 07-01-2017 at 01:50 PM.
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