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  1. #11
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    Hi,
    We have used the iodine this evening, she was a little traumatised after the vet yesterday so we left it. The vet has told us to use the wax worms as the mealworms are too small to inject with the antibiotics as she only weighs 17g so on small food. She is absolutely obsessed with the wax worms now and will eat a couple of mealworms too but she isn’t too hungry at the moment since her foot has been injured. We only have one store close to us which sells live food and the options are crickets, locusts (which we have tried today and she doesn’t like), mealworms, wax worms and marioworms. The mealworms they sell would be quite difficult to inject.
    I have bathed her this evening and diluted some of the iodine as instructed to rub onto the skin. She is not keen on us touching the affected toes. I managed to get some of the skin off but it was beginning to look very irritated after a few minutes and she was becoming agitated too.
    As for your questions, I can’t seem to upload photos from my phone so I will look into trying to log on via a computer so I can share a picture of her and her enclosure. She has a 2.5foot wooden Vivarium, lots of hides (a gecko rock hide on her warm side and 2 coconut hides on the cooler side)
    We currently have a heat mat with a thermostat on one side of the viv. I have a dish with pure calcium inside of the viv and a shallow water dish. Current substrate is kitchen roll with pieces of slate for her to lay on if she chooses to. I have nutrobal multivitamin supplement for her food. I tend to dip every few mealworms into the dust as we are feeding her.
    She was prescribed flamzine cream 50gm for her toes and baytril 2.5% antibiotics.
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post
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  2. #12
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    Method #6
    Recently I got my leo a new humid hide -- size large. It is terra cotta. It has a large reservoir on top that you fill with water on a daily basis. My leo seems to like it. She uses it independently.

    This hide sits on a separate tile. I place sphagnum moss underneath it as the "floor". Maybe a warm humid hide like this one -- the best I've seen -- would make your leo's sheds go better.

    Method #5 -- Soft-bristled Toothbrush Assist -- This even works on geckos with much smaller toes than leopard geckos.
    Always give your gecko a head start with a humidity box/sauna. First place your gecko in a humidity box for an hour or so. Then place that gecko on a solid surface like a countertop. Apply gentle pressure on the gecko's toes with a soft-bristled toothbrush and dry & wet q-tips. Gently sweep the toothbrush and the q-tips away from the toes.

    Hold smaller geckos between your fingers and thumb in a gently closed fist with either their head or their tail sticking out. Gently work on toes against your fingers or your thumb. Follow above suggestions.



    Method #6 -- Proactive Method
    Here's a proactive approach that looks quite promising. This terra cotta cave will keep humidity higher 24/7. Since the humidification cave is made from clay, colors vary some. Use this cave + an 8 ounce water dish for your leopard gecko.
    Click: https://www.amazon.com/OMEM-Reptiles.../dp/B01M1NTI44

    Attachment 48541 Attachment 48970 Attachment 48703

    Sizes
    Small: 3.54'' x 2.76'' x 2.36''
    Medium: 4.72'' x 3.35'' x 2.95''
    Large (for many adult leopard geckos): 5.9'' x 4.72'' x 3.74''


    Method #7 -- Ongoing Multivitamin Method
    Troubleshoot both your leo's multivitamins and your insect/worm dry diets for vitamin A acetate (retinol). IF especially your gecko's multivitamin does NOT contain vitamin A acetate (retinol), experiment with a multivitamin that does. Both Repashy's Calcium Plus multivitamins and Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins with and withOUT D3 contain vitamin A acetate. A diet lacking vitamin A acetate may be responsible for shedding difficulties and skin issues. Consistent ambient humidity ranging from 40-60% and a warm moist hide at higher humidity count buckets too.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-02-2020 at 12:55 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  3. #13
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    As for your questions, I can’t seem to upload photos from my phone so I will look into trying to log on via a computer so I can share a picture of her and her enclosure. She has a 2.5foot wooden Vivarium, lots of hides (a gecko rock hide on her warm side and 2 coconut hides on the cooler side)
    We currently have a heat mat with a thermostat on one side of the viv. I have a dish with pure calcium inside of the viv and a shallow water dish. Current substrate is kitchen roll with pieces of slate for her to lay on if she chooses to. I have nutrobal multivitamin supplement for her food. I tend to dip every few mealworms into the dust as we are feeding her.
    She was prescribed flamzine cream 50gm for her toes and baytril 2.5% antibiotics.
    Nutrobal is one of the best multivitamins you can buy! It's super high in plain calcium too! There is no need for a dish of pure calcium inside her enclosure.
    For link 77 click: Gecko Multivitamins

    Here's the adapted Schedule 124 I suggest.

    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old
    (withOUT UVB)
    Adapted for your 17 week old leo
    Early stage metabolic bone disease (MBD) symptoms include uneven (lopsided) gait, walking on one or both "elbows", bowed limbs, belly dragging, and an underbite.
    The Reptile Supply Company based in Lodi, California stocks Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins withOUT D3.
    Feed lightly dusted prey 3x per week.

    • Monday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with Nutrobal all-in-one multivitamins
    • Tuesday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Wednesday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate like Pro-Rep's Calci Dust
    • Thursday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Friday > > crickets or dubia lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate like Pro-Rep's Calci Dust
    • Saturday > > mealworms, superworms, or black soldier fly larvae (Phoenix worms) > > no dusting
    • Sunday > > no food or free choice > > no dusting
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-04-2020 at 02:49 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Method #6
    Recently I got my leo a new humid hide -- size large. It is terra cotta. It has a large reservoir on top that you fill with water on a daily basis. My leo seems to like it. She uses it independently.

    This hide sits on a separate tile. I place sphagnum moss underneath it as the "floor". Maybe a warm humid hide like this one -- the best I've seen -- would make your leo's sheds go better.
    Hi Elizabeth,
    I think only half of the message I had typed up was posted unfortunately!
    We are having a bit of issues with humidity in her enclosure. We have analog and digital hygrometers and thermometers. Before we changed her substrate to kitchen roll, the humidity was reading between 80-90%! It has been very difficult to get the humidity down. Currently with the kitchen roll it is around 45-60% on the warm side of the Vivarium with temperatures of between 28 degrees and 32 degrees Celsius. On the cool side the humidity is around 60-70% humid with temperatures of around 21-24.
    We have reduced the humidity a lot but I donít feel it is enough. I donít feel as though the hygrometers are very accurate. The Vivarium doesnít feel humid to touch. We do live in the Uk so the weather currently is warm and wet, creating a humid environment so Iím not sure I am going to be able to achieve lower humidity levels at the moment.
    Her toes are definitely stuck together again this morning and she will not let me touch them!
    Thank you for your support

  5. #15
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    The coconut hides hold humidity very well. You might want to get rid of them and just buy one decent cave. I donīt think humidity is a major concern though, Iīve never measured it in my terrariums. I just leave them as they are, they donīt even have a humid hide. I can tell when they are about to shed, so I soak the whole terrarium in advance. Works and has been for years now
    And I donīt think it will hurt if they have calcium dish inside. Itīs fine as long as they receive enough of D3 as well. Just make sure they donīt eat excessive amount of calcium.
    I found out that the less you worry about them, the better they will do.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Adele H View Post
    Message #11 \/ \/
    Hi,
    We have used the iodine this evening, she was a little traumatised after the vet yesterday so we left it. The vet has told us to use the wax worms as the mealworms are too small to inject with the antibiotics as she only weighs 17g so on small food. She is absolutely obsessed with the wax worms now and will eat a couple of mealworms too but she isnít too hungry at the moment since her foot has been injured. We only have one store close to us which sells live food and the options are crickets, locusts (which we have tried today and she doesnít like), mealworms, wax worms and marioworms. The mealworms they sell would be quite difficult to inject.
    I have bathed her this evening and diluted some of the iodine as instructed to rub onto the skin. She is not keen on us touching the affected toes. I managed to get some of the skin off but it was beginning to look very irritated after a few minutes and she was becoming agitated too.
    As for your questions, I canít seem to upload photos from my phone so I will look into trying to log on via a computer so I can share a picture of her and her enclosure. She has a 2.5foot wooden Vivarium, lots of hides (a gecko rock hide on her warm side and 2 coconut hides on the cooler side)
    We currently have a heat mat with a thermostat on one side of the viv. I have a dish with pure calcium inside of the viv and a shallow water dish. Current substrate is kitchen roll with pieces of slate for her to lay on if she chooses to. I have nutrobal multivitamin supplement for her food. I tend to dip every few mealworms into the dust as we are feeding her.
    She was prescribed flamzine cream 50gm for her toes and baytril 2.5% antibiotics.
    Quote Originally Posted by Adele H View Post
    Hi Elizabeth,
    I think only half of the message I had typed up was posted unfortunately!
    We are having a bit of issues with humidity in her enclosure. We have analog and digital hygrometers and thermometers. Before we changed her substrate to kitchen roll, the humidity was reading between 80-90%! It has been very difficult to get the humidity down. Currently with the kitchen roll it is around 45-60% on the warm side of the Vivarium with temperatures of between 28 degrees and 32 degrees Celsius. On the cool side the humidity is around 60-70% humid with temperatures of around 21-24.
    We have reduced the humidity a lot but I donít feel it is enough. I donít feel as though the hygrometers are very accurate. The Vivarium doesnít feel humid to touch. We do live in the Uk so the weather currently is warm and wet, creating a humid environment so Iím not sure I am going to be able to achieve lower humidity levels at the moment.
    Her toes are definitely stuck together again this morning and she will not let me touch them!
    Thank you for your support
    Adele ~ Did you post more than Message #11 shows above?

    Don't depend upon analog hygrometers at all! Basically they only show ballpark readings!!! Toss them. Humidity generally bounces around a lot! Don't worry about the humidity levels you've shared at all. Those levels are good enough. Anything between 40-60% RH is ideal for leopard geckos! Can you set your thermostat for 32.8*C? I set my leo's for 91*F.

    ***** Leopard geckos appreciate a warm humid hide at even higher humidity levels than you've mentioned when they're about to shed and sometimes just when they feel the urge! A large terra cotta hide like those mentioned in Method #6 (86661829_10221698393519102_8748129786678738944_o.jpg) will give your leo the option of higher humidity without the necessity of soaking. I ordered mine from Amazon. Amazon UK may carry them too. I know now that my leo's new terra cotta hide with basin on top is worth every penny. Maybe your leo is in a vicious cycle???

    Your temps sound good.

    For directions to post pictures on a GU thread, please click the Table of Contents link right below on my signature. Then click link 0. Scroll down a very little ways to see how to post pictures. Scroll on the actual care sheet, not on the linked version. Let me know whether you find it.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 08-04-2020 at 02:40 AM. Reason: Please note recent edit!
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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