Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Unhappy Husbandís Leo wonít eat or open eyes, have been to the vet multiple times


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    My husband’s Leo is right around 1 year old, bought as a baby from the pet store. He had a bad shed a few months ago and it messed up one of his eyes. The vet removed some shed and gave us some pain drops and antibiotics. It was pretty rocky for a while and he was getting worse. He stopped eating and his other eye had a small bubble on it. Back to the vet. We were given critical care to help get him to eat and were told to keep using the antibiotics. We were also given drops to repair the lens of his eye. After a couple weeks, his eyes were no longer swollen or having any discharge, but he holds both eyes closed all the time and still won’t eat and has gotten quite skinny.

    A few weeks ago, I took it upon myself to learn more myself to try to help get him better by making sure he’s eating more. I use the side of a toothpick to gently open his mouth and squirt critical care in. I know this is stressful for him, but he’s really calm when I’m doing it most of the time and I’m really gentle about it. It had just been months since he had really eaten, so I figured we had to do something. I did more research and ordered a multivitamin without D3 for him, and ordered some calcium without D3 (husband had calcium with D3 in the tank). We put a little calcium in the critical care every other day and the multivitamin every few days.

    So a week and a half or so ago, we took him to the vet again since he still holds his eyes closed and won’t eat. He ignored a hornworm that we left in the tank for a few days. This was the first time I went, and I saw my husband had been applying the eye drops wrong because he was scared to force his eye open ��. The vet did some tests and said one eye wasn’t reacting to light and the other only reacted a little. Then another doctor came in later and did another test and said his eyes are actually overreacting to light. Since we don’t know the morph but know he’s albino, she speculated that his eyes are probably just very sensitive to the light. I wondered for a while if he was blind—he walks into things some times and around them other times. We can’t tell and the conflicting messages from the vet didn’t clarify it either. They also decided to do a round of injected antibiotics every three days, so he has a couple weeks left of doing that.

    Since then, I’ve made sure his eyes are being opened all the way when we take him out, and we were told to keep applying the lens repair drops. Before, he would close his eyes pretty soon after, or even during his time out of his viv, but now he keeps them open for quite a while (after we open them for him). Not sure how long, I just know they’re closed again when we take him out the next day.

    We’ve done a lot of research on setting up his viv and the vet says everything is great. I keep an eye on the temps and humidity like a hawk to make sure that’s not the problem. Since it got colder, it wasn’t staying as warm as it should so I bought a ceramic heat bulb and digital thermostat and temps have been great since. The only thing we haven’t done yet, but are about to, is switch to a slate substrate. The shelf liner we use just feels too slippery IMO and I’ve seen him slide when he walks around.

    Does anyone know what we should do? The vet says we’re doing nothing wrong, but he just won’t eat or keep his eyes open, and we can’t tell if he’s blind or not. My husband is at the end of his rope because this has been going on so long and is looking into giving him to a rescue, but neither one of us want to see him go. But we can’t force feed him and force him to open his eyes every day for the rest of his life. Would he really refuse food until he just dies? He’s basically still a baby and it’s just so sad because we feel like all we’re doing is stressing him out. He ate a hornworm one time throughout this last few months...probably early December. I recommended a different vet, but we called another one and they said the one we go to now is the best one in the area.

    Also, his tank is a 20 gal long. His moist hide has sphagnum moss and he seems to really like it.
    He doesn’t react to worms in front of his face, or anywhere really. We take care of all of his needs between 9pm and 10pm and keep the lights pretty dim throughout the process (though we’ve tried with more light too).

    Any help is greatly appreciated! We really have no idea what else to do. We’ve been to the vet four times in three months, not including to get injections.

    Edit: also, he no longer eats his shed either.
    Last edited by cjardi03; 02-08-2021 at 12:27 AM. Reason: Added more info

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    22,049
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default

    Weíve done a lot of research on setting up his viv and the vet says everything is great. I keep an eye on the temps and humidity like a hawk to make sure thatís not the problem. Since it got colder, it wasnít staying as warm as it should so I bought a ceramic heat bulb and digital thermostat and temps have been great since. The only thing we havenít done yet, but are about to, is switch to a slate substrate. The shelf liner we use just feels too slippery IMO and Iíve seen him slide when he walks around.

    Does anyone know what we should do? The vet says weíre doing nothing wrong, but he just wonít eat or keep his eyes open, and we canít tell if heís blind or not. My husband is at the end of his rope because this has been going on so long and is looking into giving him to a rescue, but neither one of us want to see him go. But we canít force feed him and force him to open his eyes every day for the rest of his life. Would he really refuse food until he just dies? Heís basically still a baby and itís just so sad because we feel like all weíre doing is stressing him out. He ate a hornworm one time throughout this last few months...probably early December. I recommended a different vet, but we called another one and they said the one we go to now is the best one in the area.

    Also, his tank is a 20 gal long. His moist hide has sphagnum moss and he seems to really like it.
    He doesnít react to worms in front of his face, or anywhere really. We take care of all of his needs between 9pm and 10pm and keep the lights pretty dim throughout the process (though weíve tried with more light too).
    Hello ~

    Just a little now. I'll be back. I'm sorry your leo is a challenge. Our hobby is supposed to be fun.

    How much visible light does your leo get during the day? Is that equivalent to a 15 watt incandescent bulb dimmed to half power by a rheostat/dimmer? A Lutron rheostat + an analog timer could be helpful.

    1. Please share a picture of your leo.
    2. Which exact critical care formula do you use?
    3. Is your leo's moist hide on the warm end, right over the heat mat too?


    For link 163 click: Slate Cheese Trays 16" x 12" (11.8 inches = actual width) x 0.3 inch for Leo Substrate . . . . . . Gutler & Odinsmom -- November 2020 (update)

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun. Set your thermostat at 91*F/32.8*C.

    Tape the thermostat's probe and a digital thermometer's probe together, but offset a little. Place them right on top of the substrate underneath the warm dry hide. If you use a UTH + a CHE you'll need 2 separate thermostats, because ground and air temperatures are substantially different.

    • Warm dry hide ground temperature: 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) inside a leo's warm dry hide.
    • Warm humid/moist hide: Place the humid hide 100% on top of the heat mat. Keep temperatures similar to the warm dry hide.
    • Cool dry hide ground temperature: 70ish-75 F (21.1-23.9 C) Usually the cool end ground temperature matches the room temperature where the enclosure sits.
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) surface temperature - 4 inches (10 cm) above ground on the cool end

    Leave your heat mat on 24/7 IF ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C). If NOT, during the night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off)
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks cjardi03 thanked for this post
    Likes cjardi03 liked this post

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Thank you so much for your response!

    Can’t say precisely how much light he’s getting in that context, but there’s a large bay of windows across the room and it gets plenty bright, though if it’s cloudy it’s not all that bright. Should I do the bulb for consistency?

    Warm side temps this morning: 91 on ground, 78 on surface
    Cool side: 73 on ground, 76 on surface
    His moist side is 100% on the heat mat. The heat mat is on 24/7 and the ceramic heater turns on when needed. We actually don’t have a thermostat for the heat mat, but we could get one if you think that will help. Without the CHE, it does get down in the mid 60s overnight—so that’s why we bought it in the first place. It’s either 45W or 60W.

    The critical care is an Rx from the vet, EmerAid IC Carnivore.
    We use Fluker’s ReptiRinse Eye Rinse and a soft foam-tipped swab to open his eyes—a new one every day.
    Ketorlac tromethamine solution for pain in case this hurts his eyes.
    Oculenis lens repair gel.
    Forgot we’re also giving him colon rescue in the critical care, also prescribed by the vet.
    Ceftazidime for his injection every three days.
    Feels like we’re torturing him :’(

    Fluker’s calcium w/out D3 in tank (doesn’t seem to be licking it, can’t really tell), Repashy Calcium Plus in critical care every few days, Rep-Cal phosphorous-free calcium w/ D3 in critical care every day or two.

    Tried a mashed mealworm last night and it didn’t make anything any easier.

    Tried feeding him mealworms, hornworms, superworms, crickets, and dubia roaches.

    Here’s his viv, meds, and supplements:
    https://imgur.com/gallery/oEzCbmI

    Right in warm side, the back right is his moist hide.
    He gets another injection today, so I’ll post a photo of him then instead of waking him up right now.

    Also, I actually already have slate tiles and cheese trays, but I never considered using the same thing in his viv. Does the way the edges are finished affect anything? If we use those, should the feet be removed? A layer of sand between the tank and coasters?

    Thank you again!
    Last edited by cjardi03; 02-08-2021 at 02:29 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Post got deleted somehow...

    Thank you so much for your response!

    Can’t say precisely how much light he’s getting in that context, but there’s a large bay of windows across the room and it gets plenty bright, though if it’s cloudy it’s not all that bright. Should I do the bulb for consistency?

    Warm side temps this morning: 91 on ground, 78 on surface
    Cool side: 73 on ground, 76 on surface
    His moist side is 100% on the UTH. The UTH is on 24/7 and the ceramic heater turns on when needed. We actually don’t have a thermostat for the UTH, but we could get one if you think that will help. Without the CHE, it does get down in the mid 60s overnight—so that’s why we bought it in the first place. It’s either 45W or 60W.

    The critical care is an Rx from the vet, EmerAid IC Carnivore.
    We use Fluker’s ReptiRinse Eye Rinse and a soft foam-tipped swab to open his eyes—a new one every day.
    Ketorlac tromethamine solution for pain in case this hurts his eyes.
    Oculenis lens repair gel.
    Forgot we’re also giving him colon rescue in the critical care, also prescribed by the vet.
    Ceftazidime for his injection every three days.
    Feels like we’re torturing him :’(

    Fluker’s calcium w/out D3 in tank (doesn’t seem to be licking it, can’t really tell), Repashy Calcium Plus in critical care every few days, Rep-Cal phosphorous-free calcium w/ D3 in critical care every day or two.

    Tried a mashed mealworm last night and it didn’t make anything any easier.

    Tried feeding him mealworms, hornworms, superworms, crickets, and dubia roaches.

    Here’s his viv, meds, and supplements:
    https://imgur.com/gallery/oEzCbmI

    Warm side on the right, and the back right is his moist hide.
    He gets another injection today, so I’ll post a photo of him then instead of waking him up right now.

    Also, I actually already have slate tiles and cheese trays, but I never considered using the same thing in his viv. Does the way the edges are finished affect anything? If we use those, should the feet be removed? A layer of sand between the tank and coasters?

    Thank you again!
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2021
    Posts
    5
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)

    Default

    Here are some photos of him:
    https://imgur.com/a/LoChQLK
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Somerville, MA
    Posts
    7,503
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    86 Post(s)
    Tagged
    1 Thread(s)

    Default

    I'm wondering if the vet did any testing for the usual parasites and also for cryptosporidiosis. I'm not saying that your gecko has any of that, but I would guess that sometimes lethargy and refusal to eat accompanied by eye problems can focus all the attention on the eyes and there could be a different problem altogether that's also leading to the gecko keeping its eyes closed. Some geckos are a health risk from the beginning, not because the owner is doing anything wrong, but because they may have a disease, or a congenital invisible problem among other things that result in them not doing well. I bred leopard geckos for 13 years and on occasion would have a hatchling that just didn't thrive for no known reason. Although I have, in the past, successfully purchased and kept geckos that I got from the big chain pet stores, it's a crapshoot in my opinion for 2 reasons:
    --the geckos are supplied from the gecko equivalent of "puppy mills" and are sometimes shipped too young to thrive (not to mention there may not be very good quality control)
    --some of the parasites that geckos can get are quite contagious and the enclosure remains contagious unless it's disinfected in a very specific way. I don't think the pet stores do that, so if there's an infected gecko in the cage, the next batch of geckos may catch it as well.

    I hope things work out OK for this gecko. Results of parasite testing may result in something that can be treated, something that can't be treated (in which case euthanasia may be necessary) or nothing at all in which case it's a question of whether you choose to care for this gecko for however long it may live, surrender it to a rescue or have it euthanized. Obviously in this case it's a hard decision to make and there is something to be said for each decision since it's an individual's choice.

    Aliza
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    USA: Oregon
    Posts
    22,049
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Tagged
    9 Thread(s)

    Default


    LOG IN TO CLOSE THIS AD   


    Post got deleted somehow...
    I see 2 posts. I'm replying to the second post.

    Thank you so much for your response!
    You're very welcome. Thanks for your comprehensive reply! Sorry that I was not prompt.

    Canít say precisely how much light heís getting in that context, but thereís a large bay of windows across the room and it gets plenty bright, though if itís cloudy itís not all that bright. Should I do the bulb for consistency?
    A 15 watt bulb dimmed to 1/2 power wouldn't hurt for consistency.

    Warm side temps this morning: 91 on ground, 78 on surface
    Cool side: 73 on ground, 76 on surface
    His moist side is 100% on the UTH. The UTH is on 24/7 and the ceramic heater turns on when needed. We actually donít have a thermostat for the UTH, but we could get one if you think that will help. Without the CHE, it does get down in the mid 60s overnightóso thatís why we bought it in the first place. Itís either 45W or 60W.

    Excellent! You've got the bases well-covered, as long as you're careful about the CHE. Mista has hides wherever he goes! Good job!!!

    The critical care is an Rx from the vet, EmerAid IC Carnivore.
    We use Flukerís ReptiRinse Eye Rinse and a soft foam-tipped swab to open his eyesóa new one every day.
    Ketorlac tromethamine solution for pain in case this hurts his eyes.
    Oculenis lens repair gel.
    Forgot weíre also giving him colon rescue in the critical care, also prescribed by the vet.
    Ceftazidime for his injection every three days.
    Feels like weíre torturing him :í(
    Isn't EmerAid IC Carnivore an all-in-one diet you mix with water?

    How is Mista taking to syringe feeding? Might he eat more?

    Could any of these treatments be reducing his appetite?

    Has Mista been tested for cryptosporidoisis?

    Flukerís calcium w/out D3 in tank (doesnít seem to be licking it, canít really tell), Calcium Plus in critical care every few days, Rep-Cal phosphorous-free calcium w/ D3 in critical care every day or two.
    Did your vet suggest adding Repashy's Calcium Plus all-in-one multivitamins and Rep-Cal w/D3 to Mista's Emeraid diet? Fluker's Rep-Cal w/D3 contains a huge amount of D3. I'm wondering whether you're overdoing some of this. EmerAid IC Carnivore is a reputable diet. Seems like it mostly would cover all bases.

    Tried a mashed mealworm last night and it didnít make anything any easier.

    Tried feeding him mealworms, hornworms, superworms, crickets, and dubia roaches.
    How did he react to hornworms?

    Hereís his viv, meds, and supplements:
    https://imgur.com/gallery/oEzCbmI

    Warm side on the right, and the back right is his moist hide.
    He gets another injection today, so Iíll post a photo of him then instead of waking him up right now.

    Also, I actually already have slate tiles and cheese trays, but I never considered using the same thing in his viv. Does the way the edges are finished affect anything? If we use those, should the feet be removed? A layer of sand between the tank and coasters?
    Do you mean slate's "rough" edges? That's just the way slate is. Slate is excellent for absorbing heat. If you decide to use it, stain it since it's porous. I've included the stain in the link I shared. Keep the feet. Add a thin layer of washed play sand beneath the slate. Otherwise the air space between the slate and the UTH reduces heat transfer.

    Thank you again!
    Mista thanks you guys too!
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

User Tag List

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •