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    Default My Leopard Gecko Wont Poop


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    My female leopard gecko sometimes struggles to poop. She will hold it in for weeks and then when she goes the poop is massive. I have had her for almost 4 years and this issue started around this time last year. I have taken her to the vet twice in this span of time and the only thing that was able to get her to poop was an enima. After that she was fine for months and then she would just not poop so I took her in again for another enima. She was getting a hornworm once a week to stay hydrated and that seemed to help for a time and then I took her off of them because she wouldnt eat her crickets and only wanted the worms. But she started pooping without them. She was fine for about 6 months and two weeks ago she did a massive poop and hasn't done one since.

    She is always eager to eat her dusted crickets though. I didn't feed her last night but I fed my other, separately housed, geckos and she was scurrying around ready to hunt and eat so her appetite is still ravenous.

    I don't know if I should take her to the vet or not? They don't seem to understand why she wont poop and just give her the enima and send her home with me which is getting frustrating, i would like to find a long term solution. Im not sure if I should wait a bit longer to see if she poops or just take her in?

    She lives in a 20 gallon long tank with a UTH set to fluctuate between 86F-90F on reptile carpet.

    Thanks!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rose23 View Post
    My female leopard gecko sometimes struggles to poop. She will hold it in for weeks and then when she goes the poop is massive. I have had her for almost 4 years and this issue started around this time last year. I have taken her to the vet twice in this span of time and the only thing that was able to get her to poop was an enima. After that she was fine for months and then she would just not poop so I took her in again for another enima. She was getting a hornworm once a week to stay hydrated and that seemed to help for a time and then I took her off of them because she wouldnt eat her crickets and only wanted the worms. But she started pooping without them. She was fine for about 6 months and two weeks ago she did a massive poop and hasn't done one since.

    She is always eager to eat her dusted crickets though. I didn't feed her last night but I fed my other, separately housed, geckos and she was scurrying around ready to hunt and eat so her appetite is still ravenous.

    I don't know if I should take her to the vet or not? They don't seem to understand why she wont poop and just give her the enima and send her home with me which is getting frustrating, i would like to find a long term solution. Im not sure if I should wait a bit longer to see if she poops or just take her in?

    She lives in a 20 gallon long tank with a UTH set to fluctuate between 86F-90F on reptile carpet.

    Thanks!
    Please share a current photo of this female.

    Try placing a couple drops of vegetable oil or olive oil on her snout. Afterwards gently massage her belly in a throat-to-vent manner.

    Please tell me more about her warm moist hide. Where is it in her enclosure? Especially in winter enclosures dry out. Does she spend much time there?

    1. Have you tried increasing the temp underneath her warm dry hide to 88-92*F to help with her digestion? That's an extremely safe temp range.
    2. What brand, exact name, and frequency of supplements are you using currently?
    3. What do you feed her crickets?
    4. Have you a dish of fresh water in her enclosure 24/7?



    EDIT: I no longer recommend Mineral Oil for constipation relief.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-08-2021 at 01:45 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Please share a current photo of this female.

    Try placing a couple drops of vegetable, olive, or mineral oil on her nose (maybe soon after feeding). Afterwards gently massage her belly in a throat-to-vent manner.

    Please tell me more about her warm moist hide. Where is it in her enclosure? Especially in winter enclosures dry out. Does she spend much time there?

    1. Have you tried increasing the temp underneath her warm dry hide to 88-92*F to help with her digestion? That's an extremely safe temp range.
    2. What brand, exact name, and frequency of supplements are you using currently?
    3. What do you feed her crickets?
    4. Have you a dish of fresh water in her enclosure 24/7?



    1. I can increase the temp by a few degrees, it just fluctuates a but much for my liking- i dont want her to accidentally get burned.
    2. She gets fed twice a week, two crickets at each feeding. Once a week she gets repticalcium with D3 and the other day she gets zoo-med reptivite without D3. She's a bit chunky.
    3. I havent been very good about gutloading the crickets recently as I am not able to go to the grocery store as often as I'd like to. The crickets get the basic fluckers orange cubes just to keep them hydrated and alive. My other two gecko eat the same crickets and have not had any bowel issues.
    4. She has access to clean fresh water 24/7. I actually got to watch her drink the other day.

    She spends half her time in her warm dry hide and the other half of the time in her hide in the center. When she sheds I add some moist paper towels to assist her shedding as this hid does not have a bottom. Should I always provide her with the moist paper towels? She seems to almost avoid it when they are in there... opting to shed in her warm dry hide instead.

    For the past 4 days I have been giving her 10 minute observed warm soaks and then gentle massages. Is the mineral oil safe?

    Here is Ren:
    IMG_8740.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    A drop or two of mineral or vegetable oil is no problem and may help "grease the works".

    Aliza

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    I gave her about two drops of olive oil yesterday at 3 pm along with one cricket, it is now 10 am and still no poop. She spent the night in her middle hide. She is still acting completely normal besides the lack of poop. It's probably been 2 weeks and 3/4 days since her last poop now. Im not sure what to do.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rose23 View Post
    1. I can increase the temp by a few degrees, it just fluctuates a but much for my liking- i dont want her to accidentally get burned.
    2. She gets fed twice a week, two crickets at each feeding. Once a week she gets repticalcium with D3 and the other day she gets zoo-med reptivite without D3. She's a bit chunky.
    3. I havent been very good about gutloading the crickets recently as I am not able to go to the grocery store as often as I'd like to. The crickets get the basic fluckers orange cubes just to keep them hydrated and alive. My other two gecko eat the same crickets and have not had any bowel issues.
    4. She has access to clean fresh water 24/7. I actually got to watch her drink the other day.

    She spends half her time in her warm dry hide and the other half of the time in her hide in the center. When she sheds I add some moist paper towels to assist her shedding as this hid does not have a bottom. Should I always provide her with the moist paper towels? She seems to almost avoid it when they are in there... opting to shed in her warm dry hide instead.

    For the past 4 days I have been giving her 10 minute observed warm soaks and then gentle massages. Is the mineral oil safe?

    Here is Ren:
    IMG_8740.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by Rose23 View Post
    I gave her about two drops of olive oil yesterday at 3 pm along with one cricket, it is now 10 am and still no poop. She spent the night in her middle hide. She is still acting completely normal besides the lack of poop. It's probably been 2 weeks and 3/4 days since her last poop now. Im not sure what to do.
    Please share a photo of her belly from the underneath. Could she be pooping in a different spot?

    What is the ground temp of the middle hide?

    1. 88-92*F with your thermostat set at 91*F is a perfectly safe range. Are you monitoring the thermostat's temps with a separate digital thermometer with a probe?
    2. Your supplement dosages are fine. Her weight is OK.
    3. I offer suggestions below for a basic dry diet & ideal veggies and fruits to supplement that diet.
    4. Excellent news on fresh water daily!

    Try relocating the middle hide to the warm end or adding a moist hide closer to the warm end. Of course this will cause the paper towels to dry out faster.

    IF you'd like to get an excellent warm moist hide maybe you'd be interested in the large OMEM hide from Amazon. Amazon is out of large ones right now, but keep checking. Last summer I bought one for my 16.5 yo female leo. It's located on the warm end right next to her warm dry hide.

    July 2020: My leopard gecko loves her new large OMEM terra cotta humid hide with the basin on top! Place that hide on top of a textured ceramic tile or on a piece of slate on the enclosure's warm end right next to the warm dry hide. Use sphagnum moss inside as a bedding. Fill the basin on top with water daily.

    My leo uses this terra cotta hide all the time! She alternates between her warm dry hide and this warm humid hide. This terra cotta humid hide retains a constant humidity level without any effort on my part. My leo's former humid hide was often dry, quite dry, in fact.

    Terra cotta is porous. It's the only type hide that actually "breathes".


    Click: https://www.amazon.com/OMEM-Reptiles.../dp/B01M1NTI44

    Attachment 48541 Attachment 48970 Attachment 48703

    Sizes
    Small: 3.54'' x 2.76'' x 2.36''
    Medium: 4.72'' x 3.35'' x 2.95'' (Good size for Oedura castelnaui - Northern Velvet Geckos)
    Large OMEM hide (for ALL leopard geckos up to maybe 80ish grams): 5.9'' x 4.72'' x 3.74''
    X-Large: At this time OMEM does not make an XL version of their terra cotta hide.

    The entry hole for the large OMEM terra cotta hide measures 2 inches wide x 1.5 inches high.

    Here's a good dry diet to feed all your leo's feeders including her mealworms. Also use Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload as a mealworm bedding instead of oats, wheat germ, or wheat bran.

    Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload (1-775-359-1085) for her mealworm/superworm bedding as well as for her insect and worm food.


    \/ \/ \/
    In addition to a balanced dry diet to cover the basics, offer your geckos' feeders some veggies and fruits from these lists.
    Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms . . . . . . thanks to Olimpia -- August 2013

    "A commercial gut loading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here's a list of great ingredients to use:
    BEST: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion flowers & leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    GOOD: sweet potato, carrots, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    DRY FOOD: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    AVOID AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."

    EDIT: I no longer recommend Mineral Oil for constipation relief.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-08-2021 at 01:59 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Please share a photo of her belly from the underneath. Could she be pooping in a different spot? Let's try a couple drops of mineral oil next.

    What is the ground temp of the middle hide?

    1. 88-92*F with your thermostat set at 91*F is a perfectly safe range. Are you monitoring the thermostat's temps with a separate digital thermometer with a probe?
    2. Your supplement dosages are fine. Her weight is OK.
    3. I offer suggestions below for a basic dry diet & ideal veggies and fruits to supplement that diet.
    4. Excellent news on fresh water daily!

    Try relocating the middle hide to the warm end or adding a moist hide closer to the warm end. Of course this will cause the paper towels to dry out faster.

    IF you'd like to get an excellent warm moist hide maybe you'd be interested in the large OMEM hide from Amazon. Amazon is out of large ones right now, but keep checking. Last summer I bought one for my 16.5 yo female leo. It's located on the warm end right next to her warm dry hide.




    Here's a good dry diet to feed all your leo's feeders including her mealworms. Also use Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload as a mealworm bedding instead of oats, wheat germ, or wheat bran.

    Aliza (GU's acpart) uses this already ground Professional Reptiles' Pro Gutload (1-775-359-1085) for her mealworm/superworm bedding as well as for her insect and worm food.


    \/ \/ \/
    In addition to a balanced dry diet to cover the basics, offer your geckos' feeders some veggies and fruits from these lists.
    IMG_8770.jpg
    IMG_8772.jpg

    Her thermostat is set at 89F as it fluctuates about 3 degrees cooler and warmer. So it will range from 86-92F. I check this temp with a temperature gun.

    Theres not much room to have both her hides on the warm end as her warm dry hide is large and long but she loves to curl up on either side. She is currently in her warm hide napping, when I left this morning she was in the middle hide and the temp there is about 72F.

    Would there be a difference in olive oil versus mineral oil? I am starting to wondering if she is not pooping as she only eats 4 large crickets a week and then she just holds it?

    I will look into that hide on amazon!

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    Update!

    She did a poop last night! It looks relatively normal, its a bit soft but not runny. Her urate was rather large, it had a decent white bit and some yellow. She's acting normal just napping in her warm hide now.
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rose23 View Post
    Update!

    She did a poop last night! It looks relatively normal, its a bit soft but not runny. Her urate was rather large, it had a decent white bit and some yellow. She's acting normal just napping in her warm hide now.
    Was her poop normally sized or massive?

    Going forward I will ONLY recommend human food-quality oils like olive oil or vegetable oil as remedies for constipation.

    All white urates are preferable. The yellow might be caused by dehydration or, perhaps, by supplements. Experiment only dusting half her feeders with Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamin withOUT D3 for the next couple weeks to see whether that makes a difference. For her second feeding per week carry on as usual with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3.


    UPDATE: I will remove all my mentions of mineral oil from this thread. The Wikipedia cautions I read this morning apply to Mineral Oil and some enemas. I totally believe it's far better to be safe rather than sorry.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-08-2021 at 02:08 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Elizabeth Freer View Post
    Was her poop normally sized or massive?

    Going forward I will ONLY recommend human food-quality oils like olive oil or vegetable oil as remedies for constipation.

    All white urates are preferable. The yellow might be caused by dehydration or, perhaps, by supplements. Experiment only dusting half her feeders with Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamin withOUT D3 for the next couple weeks to see whether that makes a difference. For her second feeding per week carry on as you do with Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3.


    UPDATE: I will remove all my mentions of mineral oil from this thread. The Wikipedia cautions I read this morning apply to Mineral Oil and some enemas. I totally believe it's far better to be safe rather than sorry.
    Her poop was not massive like it has been before. It was on the larger side but looked reasonable for her body size. I will give that dusting schedule a go!

    Thank you for the help!

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