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  1. #1
    tootallsam is offline Newbie
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    Default Leopard gecko eye problems/not eating.


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    About a month to a month and a half ago my one year old male leopard gecko started eating less and less and is now not eating at all. He tried to shed last month but did not shed completely on his head. He then started to shed again a few days ago and more shed got stuck underneath the old skin on his head and on his feet. It wouldn't come off after two days and several mistings so I gave him a warm bath and tried to work the skin off with a cotton swab yesterday. When I tried to get the skin off his head it was no problem except for near his eyes. I ended up pulling off a thick, gooey substance that was on his eyes. While I was doing this he had his mouth all the way open like he was in pain. I then flushed his eyes with warm water and they were a milky white, cloudy color. I put him back in his tank hoping that he would calm down because it was very stressful for him. Today they look really dark and sunken in. He is also showing signs that he may not be able to see. He has bumped into several things and doesn't move when I put my hand near him. I cleaned his tank today thinking that if he does have an infection or something got in his eye it was better to be clean. I have him in a 10 gallon tank with a water dish cleaned every day, reptile carpet as substrate, a moist box, a big hide, and a tank lamp. It is usually about 80 degrees on the cool side and 90 degrees on the warm side. He has always been on a diet of meal worms and crickets dusted in calcium and vitamin d. I am really worried about him as he hasn't eaten in quite some time and he has shrunk in size, as has his tail. I am afraid that if his eyesight is bad or gone he won't be able to see his food. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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    It sounds like a vitamin A deficiency (and maybe an infection?), but just to cover everything, fill this out (pics of him and his enclosure would be helpful as well):

    #50---Cricket4u's Gecko Health Questionnaire
    GU members: When copying & pasting this questionnaire into your thread, please change only the answers of your reply font to boldface to make your replies easy to read. Don't really want the entire reply bold.

    General Information
    Species of lizard:
    Gecko's name:
    Morph:
    Gender:
    Age:
    Weight:
    Total length:
    Length of your reptile when you first acquired it:
    Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner):
    Captive bred or wild caught:

    Vivarium
    Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth):
    Cage (type, size):
    Substrate provided:
    Types of hiding places provided:
    Is there a humidity hide? location?
    Please describe any other furnishings:
    List recent changes in the environment, if any:

    Lighting
    Artificial lighting
    Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s):
    Fluorescent (tube bulbs):

    Natural lighting
    Access to ambient daylight from a distant window:

    Heating
    Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage?
    What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarim type, other):
    What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
    What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
    What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground:
    What device(s) are used to heat the tank (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other):
    Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners):
    Are you using a thermostat(s)?
    Which hide does she/he spend most of her time?
    Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much?

    Humidity
    Is the humidity measured?
    Humidity range:

    Diet
    Insects and worms, list type:
    Regular diet fed to the insects and worms:
    Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with?
    How often do you feed your gecko?
    Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often?
    What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both?
    Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without?
    Multivitamins (include brand name)?
    Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet:

    General Health
    If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs:
    Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased?
    Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased?
    Have you noticed any of the following?
    Weight (loss or gain):
    Discharge from the eyes or nose:
    Increased breathing rate or effort:
    Change in the droppings:
    Urates
    ---white or yellowish:
    ---size of urates as compared to size of feces:
    Abnormal skin color or shedding:
    Parasites on the skin or in the feces:
    Weakness:

    Previous problems and/or illnesses:

    Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
    List other animals that are kept in the same cage:
    Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months):
    Are any of your other pets ill?

    ~Maggot

  3. #3
    Elizabeth Freer's Avatar
    Elizabeth Freer is offline Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by tootallsam View Post
    About a month to a month and a half ago my one year old male leopard gecko started eating less and less and is now not eating at all. He tried to shed last month but did not shed completely on his head. He then started to shed again a few days ago and more shed got stuck underneath the old skin on his head and on his feet. It wouldn't come off after two days and several mistings so I gave him a warm bath and tried to work the skin off with a cotton swab yesterday. When I tried to get the skin off his head it was no problem except for near his eyes. I ended up pulling off a thick, gooey substance that was on his eyes. While I was doing this he had his mouth all the way open like he was in pain. I then flushed his eyes with warm water and they were a milky white, cloudy color. I put him back in his tank hoping that he would calm down because it was very stressful for him. Today they look really dark and sunken in. He is also showing signs that he may not be able to see. He has bumped into several things and doesn't move when I put my hand near him. I cleaned his tank today thinking that if he does have an infection or something got in his eye it was better to be clean. I have him in a 10 gallon tank with a water dish cleaned every day, reptile carpet as substrate, a moist box, a big hide, and a tank lamp. It is usually about 80 degrees on the cool side and 90 degrees on the warm side. He has always been on a diet of meal worms and crickets dusted in calcium and vitamin d. I am really worried about him as he hasn't eaten in quite some time and he has shrunk in size, as has his tail. I am afraid that if his eyesight is bad or gone he won't be able to see his food. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
    With how you describe what has been happening with your leo's eyes it is super important that you take him to see an experienced herp vet asap. Really don't want to monkey around with eyes.

    Any regurgitation?

    Recommend adding Zoo Med's Reptivite with D3/vitamin A acetate to his supplements.

    For Cricket Guidleines click here: Cricket Guidelines

    Be sure to complete the Health Questionnaire EC has posted.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-26-2013 at 04:40 AM.
    "Life is not about waiting for the storm to pass. It's about learning to dance in the rain."

    Click:
    Leopard Gecko Care Sheet
    Health Questionnaire

    ===> URGENT: No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium EVER <===


    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Lygodactylus kimhowelli ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ P. tigrinus

  4. #4
    tootallsam is offline Newbie
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    General Information
    Species of lizard: Leopard Gecko
    Gecko's name: Geronimo
    Morph: high yellow
    Gender: male
    Age: almost 1 yr
    Weight: unknown
    Total length: unknown
    Length of your reptile when you first acquired it: unknown
    Source (pet store, breeder, previous owner): pet store
    Captive bred or wild caught: captive bred

    Vivarium
    Enclosure dimensions (length x width x heighth): 20 x 12 x 10 in.
    Cage (type, size): 10 gallon glass tank
    Substrate provided: reptile carpet
    Types of hiding places provided: one moist box and one large hide
    Is there a humidity hide? location? yes on the cool side of the tank
    Please describe any other furnishings: water and food bowl (cleaned daily)
    List recent changes in the environment, if any: none

    Lighting
    Artificial lighting
    Incandescent (“screw-in” bulbs): wattage(s): 75 watt
    Fluorescent (tube bulbs): no

    Natural lighting
    Access to ambient daylight from a distant window: yes

    Heating
    Do you have a thermometer(s) in the cage? yes
    What type and brand of thermometer (digital with probe, temperature gun, LCD strip, analog (circle), combo digital thermometer/hygrometer, stainless steel aquarim type, other): analog
    What is the ground temperature right on the substrate under the warm dry hide:
    What is the air temperature on the warm end about 4 inches up from the ground:
    What is the air temperature on the cool end about 4 inches up from the ground: 80 degrees
    What device(s) are used to heat the tank (Under Tank Heater, heat light, ceramic heat emitter, Flexwatt heat tape, hot rock, other): heat light
    Ventilation space for your UTH by elevating the tank above the shelf (some UTHs come with sticky feet for the tank corners): --
    Are you using a thermostat(s)?
    Which hide does she/he spend most of her time? large rock hide on warm side
    Is the temperature decreased at night? by how much? no

    Humidity
    Is the humidity measured? yes
    Humidity range: 40%

    Diet
    Insects and worms, list type: crickets and mealworms
    Regular diet fed to the insects and worms:
    Are the insects and worms formally “gutloaded” 1-2 days prior to feeding off to your gecko? If so with? no, they are dusted with calcium and vitamin d
    How often do you feed your gecko? daily
    Please list any supplements (with brand names) used. How are they given and how often? none
    What calcium brand are you using? with D3, without or both? repti calcium with d3
    Is the calcium in the tank with D3 or without? with
    Multivitamins (include brand name)? none
    Please list any recent additions/changes in the diet: none

    General Health
    If your gecko is sick, please describe the signs and how long your gecko has been showing these signs: not eating for over a month, difficulty with last 2 sheds, difficulties seeing over last few days
    Is your gecko’s general activity level normal, decreased, or increased? decreased
    Is your gecko’s appetite normal, decreased, or increased? decreased
    Have you noticed any of the following?
    Weight (loss or gain): dramatic loss
    Discharge from the eyes or nose: discharge from eyes stuck on shed skin
    Increased breathing rate or effort: unknown
    Change in the droppings: less droppings, mostly urine, not feces
    Urates
    ---white or yellowish: yellowish
    ---size of urates as compared to size of feces: bigger
    Abnormal skin color or shedding: difficult shedding
    Parasites on the skin or in the feces: no
    Weakness: doesnt climb around as much but could be due to poor eyesight

    Previous problems and/or illnesses: none

    Other Critters in Same Cage or in Household
    List other animals that are kept in the same cage: none
    Recent acquisitions (new pets within the past 6 months): none
    Are any of your other pets ill? --

  5. #5
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    Your gecko isn't shedding and has poor eyesight (probably) because it's getting absolutely no vitamin A in its diet, which is important for skin and eye health. The stuck shed has now become an infection (one that sounds pretty serious from what you're describing). Your gecko needs to see a vet ASAP if you want it to have any chance of surviving. Don't wait to see what happens. Call a vet first thing tomorrow and get the soonest available appointment. They can give you antibiotics as well as Carnivore Care, which will serve as a food source until the gecko feels well enough to eat again. Be sure to point out that your gecko has no vitamin A so the vet knows that this is (probably) the issue.

    To avoid this in the future, there are some changes that need to be made.

    1) You need a supplement with vitamin A acetate. I personally always suggest Repashy Calcium Plus. This covers all nutritional needs and is intended to be used to dust every feeding. You won't need the stuff you have now. Another viable option is to use ZooMed's Reptivite (different from what you have) to use 2-3 times a week.
    2) You need to know what your temperatures are. Get a digital thermometer because the analogs are notoriously inaccurate. Keep an eye on the temperatures on both sides of the enclosure. The temps on the ground of the warm side should stay between 88 and 93, and the temps on the cool side should be about 75 - no higher than 78. You may have difficulty achieving a proper temp gradient in a 10 gallon, so it would be wise to pick up a 20 LONG. PetSmart might still be having its $1/gallon sale, so if you have one in the area, that would be a good place to check.
    3) An under tank heater (UTH) would be a very good idea. This will give your gecko the belly heat it needs to properly digest its food and utilize the supplements being given. Place the warm side hide directly on top of the UTH.
    4) You should have a minimum of three hides - one dry hide on the warm side, one dry hide on the cool side, and one moist hide somewhere around the middle/near the warm side. This will allow your gecko to choose the temperature and humidity level that best suits its needs at any given time.
    5) What kind of heat light are you using? You said the temps aren't decreased at night, which must mean that you're leaving it on 24/7. This will disrupt the gecko's day/night cycle. A better alternative for nighttime heat would to just leave a UTH on or to have a UTH with a ceramic heat emitter, which produces no light.

    ~Maggot

  6. #6
    tootallsam is offline Newbie
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    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

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    How often are you using the supplement you have?

    ~Maggot

  8. #8
    tootallsam is offline Newbie
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    It's a powder so he takes it when he eats which hasn't been at all recently.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tootallsam View Post
    It's a powder so he takes it when he eats which hasn't been at all recently.
    For how long? And how often was it used before that? The rubbery-looking legs are a sign of MBD, which takes quite a while of little or no calcium to develop. Your gecko very seriously needs to see a vet ASAP. Also, try to keep the enclosure cleaner, as the carpet is very good at holding and growing nasty things if left dirty.

    What kind of light are you using? Are you leaving it on 24/7?

    ~Maggot

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    tootallsam is offline Newbie
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    I just cleaned out his entire tank. I have plans to take him to the vet on Thursday. I use a 75 watt night black heat bulb that stays on all the time.

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