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  1. #1
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    Default Buying Leopard Gecko! Need help making supply list/feed


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    Hi! So I am going to be a first time gecko mom and I wanted to make sure I had everything I needed ready and set up before actually buying my leopard gecko. After some research, I have made a list and I wanted to get some advice on it:

    Already own:
    20 Gallon tank (30'' x 12'' x 13'')
    Sliding screen lid
    3 Resin Hides
    Misting Bottle
    Plastic Tub for Crickets (+ paper towel cardboard rolls)

    To Buy List:
    Zoo Med Heat: Pad Amazon.com : Zoo Med ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater, Small : Pet Habitat Heat Emitters : Pet Supplies
    Thermostat: Amazon.com : Jump Start MTPRTC, Digital ETL-Certified Heat Mat Thermostat for Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing : Plant Germination Heating Mats : Patio, Lawn & Garden
    Temperature gun: Amazon.com: Etekcity Lasergrip 1080 Non-contact Digital Laser IR Infrared Thermometer Temperature Gun, Yellow/Black: Automotive
    EcoEarth: Amazon.com : Zoo Med Laboratories SZMEE10 Eco Earth Pet Bed, 1-Brick : Coconut Fiber : Pet Supplies
    Water Dish: Amazon.com : Exo Terra Water Dish, Small : Small Water Dish Reptiles : Pet Supplies
    Feeding Dish: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    Vitamins: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...A2YKHLMXRLPQLV
    Terrarium Disinfectant: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    GutLoad/Cricket food: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...=ATVPDKIKX0DER
    Calcium with D3: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Calciu...WFWS0DKVBEBJ2A

    (I live in Florida where we never really get cold winters so I did not include a heat lamp)


    Am I missing anything besides the Crickets/Mealworms and the gecko itself?
    Are the products I picked good?
    Also, I have a few feeding related questions. I have read several care sheets and I seen a bit of mixed info about what needs to be done/bought. Is this correct: you can buy crickets in bulk (1000), put them in a plastic tub with egg cartons or rolls, a moist paper towel, half an orange and some cricket feed. When its time to feed your gecko, you take the crickets its going to eat out, put them in a cup with calcium power, coat them, then feed them to your adult gecko every 3rd day (and once a week, dust them with vitamin power instead of the calcium power).

    Is this correct or is dusting not necessary if your crickets are fed a high calcium diet?
    Or (I've seen this is some videos as well) can I not dusk the crickets at all (just feed crickets the high calcium diet) and instead put a milk carton cap filled with the vitamin power in the gecko's tank?

    So for all the questions and thank you in advance for the help!
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer thanked for this post

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Annarawr View Post
    Hi! So I am going to be a first time gecko mom and I wanted to make sure I had everything I needed ready and set up before actually buying my leopard gecko. After some research, I have made a list and I wanted to get some advice on it:

    Already own:
    20 Gallon tank (30'' x 12'' x 13'')
    Sliding screen lid
    3 Resin Hides
    Misting Bottle
    Plastic Tub for Crickets (+ paper towel cardboard rolls)
    ......

    (I live in Florida where we never really get cold winters so I did not include a heat lamp)

    Am I missing anything besides the Crickets/Mealworms and the gecko itself?
    Are the products I picked good?
    Also, I have a few feeding related questions. I have read several care sheets and I seen a bit of mixed info about what needs to be done/bought. Is this correct: you can buy crickets in bulk (1000), put them in a plastic tub with egg cartons or rolls, a moist paper towel, half an orange and some cricket feed. When its time to feed your gecko, you take the crickets its going to eat out, put them in a cup with calcium power, coat them, then feed them to your adult gecko every 3rd day (and once a week, dust them with vitamin power instead of the calcium power).

    Is this correct or is dusting not necessary if your crickets are fed a high calcium diet?
    Or (I've seen this is some videos as well) can I not dusk the crickets at all (just feed crickets the high calcium diet) and instead put a milk carton cap filled with the vitamin power in the gecko's tank?

    So for all the questions and thank you in advance for the help!
    You are welcome. You've done a remarkable job collecting your leo's viv stuff.

    Are you planning to get an adult? I would only lightly dust. I would keep all supplements out of the tank.

    Here are some important changes:
    • Bigger heat mat; this one is reusable: 11 x 17 inch Flukers or Ultratherm heat mat. Your leo will be much more comfortable!
    • Instead of D3 Zoo Med Reptivite multivitamins, buy no D3 (plain) Reptivite multivitamins
    • Keep the ZM D3 Repti Calcium
    • Buy a much better product than Fluker's High Calcium Cricket Feed. (I used to use it too. ) I suggest Zoo Med's Natural Adult Bearded Dragon Food for your crickets, dubia, and mealworms or an equivalent high quality dry diet.

    Product Questions:
    1. How do you plan to use the Eco Earth coco fiber?
    2. Don't really need the ZM Wipe-Out.
    3. Re the feeding dish:
      • Mealworms might escape.
      • Crickets will escape.
      • These contain bugs well and allow your leo to actually see them. All your leo may need is a stone ramp up to the dish. 1 cup Kitchen Storage Red Lid

    Click: Cricket Guidelines
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Annarawr thanked for this post

  3. #3
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    Welcome to GU!
    Congratulations on your soon to be new family member.
    The list you have compiled seems to be perfect. The only suggestions I would make would be to not purchase Eco Earth as your substrate and as Elizabeth stated, purchase a larger heat mat for your 20 gallon tank.
    I always recommend slate or ceramic tiles to use as a substrate. I've used them for years and I love them! They are cheap, easy to clean, hold in heat well, look great and have no risk of impaction. You can purchase single tiles at a Home Depot or Lowe's often for a dollar or less. They will also cut tiles for you for free if you let them know the size you'll need.
    Edit: also to spend less money, try gutloading your feeders with Potatoes and Kale. Probably cheaper than those weird cubes.
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com
    Thanks Annarawr thanked for this post

  4. #4
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    Thank you for the replies! To answer some questions: I plan on getting an adult (maybe younger if I fall in love but no younger than 6-8months since Im a newbie and Ive heard the older they are, the easier it is). I had planned to use the ecoearth for substarte to have a more natural look.

    So I changed the following so far:
    the cricket feed to the bearded dragon food: Pet Food : Amazon.com: Zoo Med 20-Ounce Natural Bearded Dragon Food, Adult Formula
    And the vitamin to the without D3 one: Amazon.com : Zoo Med Reptivite, without Vitamin D3, 2-Ounce : Pet Supplements And Vitamins : Pet Supplies
    Removed the feeding dish, will use a small glass tubowear I have that is like what you posted.

    So is this correct then: feed crickets/mealworms the bearded dragon feed, dust with calcium lightly before every feeding except the times I dust with vitamin (every 3rd meal?).
    Also, I read you should offer a variety of insects so I planned on doing meal worms and crickets. Do you do 2 cricket meals and then a mealworm meal or is it every meal is a mix of crickets and mealworms?

    About heat mat: so I'm guessing you need the heat mat to cover 1/2 the tank and not a 1/3? Do you guys not recommend the zoo med large heat mat? I really liked the adhessive aspect of zoomed + it coming with little rubber feet for the tank. I was reading the reviews of the 2 you suggested and it says you will need a at least 6mm styrofoam and tape and Im guessing I also need to find something to raise my tank so the styrofoam doesnt touch my wood dresser. If I am understanding it wrong, feel free to correct me!

    About the cleaner, do I not need a reptile safe cleaner than? On some sites, I saw warnings against using regular household cleaners/bleach dilutions since it was not safe for your reptile.

    About substrate: I really liked the natural look of the eco earth and I read it doesnt cause impactions like sand does. Is this wrong? I don't really like the look of tile, or at least not for the whole tank.

  5. #5
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    I would dust your feeders once to twice a week. (try alternating dusting of multivitamin and calcium) It is possible for leopard geckos to overdose on calcium.
    The heat mat should cover 1/3 to 1/2 of the tank to achieve a proper temp gradient. I have one to cover 1/3 of my 30 gallon tank but also use a CHE in conjunction with it to achieve proper temps. I personally don't like to peel off the sticky part as if you ever want to change things up, it will cause the internal heating elements to break if you peel it off and it won't heat as well when you re-stick it back on. I use packing tape to keep my heat mats stuck under my tanks.
    For a cleaner, I use one part vinegar to one part water and then rinse really well. All of the reptile safe cleaners seem to have a really strong smell and don't work as well as vinegar has for me. Just be sure that there is no smell before you place your reptile back in. It's not a disinfectant replacement but does work well as a cleaner.
    If you're after a more natural looking substrate but don't want to chance impaction (as it can still happen with eco earth) try the excavator clay. I used it once and didn't really like it myself as tiles are so much easier and less heavy. All you have to do with the excavator clay is get it wet, and mold it how you want it to be in your tank and let it dry. I would recommend that you only place a very thin (or none at all) over your heat mat as it doesn't transfer heat well. You could use the excavator clay in addition to a slate tile over your heat mat so heat is transferred from underneath. Here's a link to some that look natural:
    Amazon.com : Aquarium Ornament Furnishing Stone Flat Loose Real Natural Slate : Pet Supplies
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com

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    Thank you for the link! Ill check it out. I'm still undecided about the subtrate but I can always try stuff out (eco earth and tiles are both cheap) and see which I like best before I get my gecko. I want to use the eco earth anyways for the moist hide so it wont go to waste regardless.

    About the heat pad, changed the heating pad to the fluker's large. Question about that: so all I have to do is tape it to the under side of the tank and the tank up slightly from the wood dresser underneth and my dresser should be fine? Or is that polystyrene needed? I dont want to ruin my furniture.

  7. #7
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    I would have it lifted a little from the surface the tank will be sitting on so that it doesn't heat up too much and ruin your furniture or become a fire hazard. It doesn't really matter what you use to lift it (as long as it's non flammable to an extend). Yes the heat mats get warm but generally not hot enough to cause fires or melt things, especially if they are put on thermostats. The polystyrene works well because it's not easy to melt. Some heat mats come with little rubber feet too. You also want to lift it up a bit because you don't want the tank to sit on the chord. The pressure will break the chord over time.
    I have my leopard gecko tank on a stand so it's well ventilated underneath. My pictus geckos home is a modified tub that is on a modified stand specifically for his tub. Again, it's ventilated underneath as well.
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com
    Thanks Annarawr thanked for this post

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    Thank you so much! Gonna order everything now! So excited to start setting everything up.
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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    Glad we could get you on the right path with your newest family member. I'd be sure have your enclosure set up a couple of weeks ahead of time so that your temperatures are accurate and you have everything you need for your new little one.
    Make sure you share pictures when your gecko arrives.
    Kelly @ Tree Devil Geckos
    Producing awesome Leachianus geckos and Gargoyle geckos since 2017
    http://www.facebook.com/treedevilgeckos
    http://www.treedevilgeckos.com
    Thanks Annarawr thanked for this post

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    The Anatomy of Gut-Loading | Ingredients & Nutritional Info | Much Ado About Chameleons That's a tid bit about good and bad foods for your insects to eat. My roaches go nuts over carrots, kale, collard greens and apples. I tried a fruit smoothie last night of blueberries, mango, kiwi, banana, a dollop of yogurt and 2 small drops of honey sprinkled with Repashy Calcium Plus and they seemed to like it. My crested gecko enjoyed his fruit smoothie to
    "Attitude is a little thing that makes a big difference." ~ Winston Churchill

    “I’m being extremely clever up here and there’s no one to stand around looking impressed! What’s the point in having you all?”-The 11th Doctor.

    1.0.0- Leopard Gecko (Ziggy)
    1.0.0- Crested Gecko (Axel-The Frogman)
    0.1.0- Guinea Pig (Brownie)
    B. dubia, T. molitor, M. quinquemaculata
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