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    Default Questions about heating


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    Hi there! I've been interested in getting my first leopard gecko and I've been doing tons of research for weeks. I think I'm basically ready to start purchasing supplies and getting everything set up to finally get my gecko but I just have a few questions about heating, thermometers.

    So I plan on getting an open front, 20 gallon long (30 x 12.5 x 13 from glasscages.com). I've ready multiple different things that either say the UTH should be 1/3 of the length of the tank or 1/2 the length so I'm between the Ultratherm 11x11 or the 11x17 and I was hoping to get a few more opinions on that.

    I live in an apartment in New York City so I personally don't have control over the temperature of my apartment and it gets a bit cold sometimes at night in the winter (high 50s, low 60s) so I'm worried about being able to maintain the air temperature for my leopard gecko. I was wondering if CHEs can be used specifically for raising/maintaining AIR temperature specifically? And then I can just adjust the UTH accordingly, if the floor temp gets too hot. Also what wattage CHE should I get for my tank size?

    Finally, how many thermometers should I have? I know that I need one in the center of the floor on warm side of the tank. But for the cool side, do I also need a reading of the floor temperature? Do I need thermometers on both sides of the tank to measure the air temperature as well? Aka 4 thermometers total? This seems a bit excessive lol, I don't think I've ever seen a picture of a tank with that many probes on the floor or with that many wires coming out of it. But if it's a good idea, then I'll do it. I just want my gecko to be comfortable.

    My boyfriend has a bearded dragon and tells me I'm going too crazy with my research and while I do tend to go a bit overboard (hehe), I just want to be thorough so I know what to do if I run into any obstacles. Anyway, I'm sure I'll think of more questions as I go further down the rabbit hole but thank you for reading my long post and I look forward to talking with you all

    -Kayla
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    . . . . . .Oh my!

    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited, Kayla!

    You and your leo will love having a open front viv! Are these custom vivs? I'll check out your link!

    Invest in an 11 x 17 inch UTH. Leave it on 24/7. Both Fluker's and Ultratherm make that size. Then your leo will have more warm ground to explore and be less likely to stay glued to his heat mat. Having an 11 x 17 UTH will NOT negatively impact your cool end.

    Hook the heat mat to a thermostat. Amazon sells an Apollo digital thermostat for $20 OR you can get a Jump Start by Hydrofarm. I have a Jump Start for my leo. The temps match my digital thermometer pretty closely.

    CHEs work well for warming up the air. It's hard to recommend an exact wattage. ? 100 watt on a separate thermostat. The best dome for the CHE in your case is a Fluker's 10 inch diameter dome. That dome will direct more heat downward and lessen heat escaping as with smaller domes.

    PetSmart's All Living Things brand CHEs are much better than Exo Terras.

    Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured by the probe of a digital thermometer
    • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).

    You'll also need some type digital thermostat with a probe. Zoo Med makes a yellow one that's accurate enough.

    You could also get a digital thermometer for the cool end. However, the cool end is often the same temperature as the room.

    A great place for supplies is the Reptile Supply Company based in Sacramento, CA.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 03-07-2017 at 08:22 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

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    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Thank you for all the info, Elizabeth! I will be purchasing the 11x17 UTH, Hydrofarm thermostat, Fluker's dome, and yellow Zoo Med thermometer. Do you think it would be okay to use a rheostat for the CHE or would it be better to use a separate thermostat?

    Also, this isn't exactly relevant but I've been looking into different leopard gecko morphs and many of the ones that I like are "albino" variations. I've read that they're more sensitive to light than other leopard geckos. Since I won't be using any extra artificial lighting, I was wondering if you could tell me if there are any other major differences in albino leopard gecko care? I've searched the site but couldn't find anything specific.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Geckos&Tigers&Bears View Post
    Thank you for all the info, Elizabeth! I will be purchasing the 11x17 UTH, Hydrofarm thermostat, Fluker's dome, and yellow Zoo Med thermometer. Do you think it would be okay to use a rheostat for the CHE or would it be better to use a separate thermostat?

    Also, this isn't exactly relevant but I've been looking into different leopard gecko morphs and many of the ones that I like are "albino" variations. I've read that they're more sensitive to light than other leopard geckos. Since I won't be using any extra artificial lighting, I was wondering if you could tell me if there are any other major differences in albino leopard gecko care? I've searched the site but couldn't find anything specific.
    You're welcome, Kayla!

    A rheostat would work. It would not turn off the CHE if the CHE got too warm. Here's the rheostat I use for some of my gecko vivs.

    dimmer.JPG

    @acpart for albino care
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Geckos&Tigers&Bears thanked for this post

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    Some people feel that albino leopard geckos are more sensitive to light. I've certainly found that if I want to look at an albino's eyes by holding them near my lamp, they close their eyes more readily than a non-albino. Other than not shining bright lights into an albino's eyes, there is no difference.

    Aliza
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