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  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeckoFanboy View Post
    Well, you definitely need a thermostat. The Jump Start Thermostat is awesome. It's cheap and effective...works great. Right now, you have no way of controlling the rising temp of that UTH. If I were you, I'd buy the thermostat, and then your temp problems are gone.

    Don't panic though. For years, I NEVER used a UTH, but just used a bulb to keep the tank at a steady 80-85. My gecko lived that way for 17 years. The only thing is, I don't think he digested food as smoothly as he should have because he didn't have the belly heat that aids their digestion. My new gecko has the UTH and he loves it, and he eats and poops regularly.
    I’m glad you mentioned that because I might just keep the UTH off until I buy a thermostat. Im supposed to pick up the gecko tomorrow actually. Idk anything about thermostats tho, will it turn back on after the temp drops?

  2. #12
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    I found the Jump Start Thermostat a bit confusing to operate at first, but I am the kinda guy who has trouble hooking up and operating anything electrical, LOL.

    Basically, you're just gonna plug it into the wall, and then you're gonna plug the UTH into the thermostat. When you first plug it in, the thermostat will give you a temp reading. That temp reading is coming from the bullet-shaped tip at the end of the thermostat wire. Hold the yellow Set button down for 3 seconds and you will see it begin to blink, then let it go and use the up and down arrow buttons to select your tank temp. I set mine to 92. Click the Set button again, it will stop blinking, and your tank temp is set. Then take the thermostat wire with the bullet-shaped end, and drape it over into your tank. My warm hide has a little hole drilled into the side of it (as most commercial hides do). Take the thermostat wire and put it through the hole in the side of the warm hide (I had to drill my hole bigger to do this). Gently place the warm hide in it's place in the tank, and just make sure (this is important) that the thermostat tip is touching the floor, in the middle of his warm hide right above the center of your UTH pad. My gecko crawls around his wire. It doesn't bother him. But I just make sure that wire tip is touching the ground in the center of his warm hide.

    When you set the thermostat temp for 92, the temp will go up a little bit over that, by usually no more than 2, and then it will shut off, the temp will start to drop (you can see it digitally), and will come down to around 87, and then kick on and start going back up again. It will always make sure that your gecko's belly heat will be within a certain range, and never above or below. This is important.

    Also, there's a mistake alot of people make with their UTH pads. They peel the backer off the pad, stick it onto the tank bottom, and then decide they don't like where they put it. So they peel the pad up, and try and stick it down again. Wrong, LOL! These UTH pads have all these little wires running through them. When you peel the pad up, it actually ruins the pad. It'll never heat correctly again, as it has all kinds of tiny breaks throughout it, creating cool spots and hot spots, and often not working right at all. Alot of folks make this mistake and then wonder why they can't get the temps to work right. It even tells you not to do this on the pad instructions. Once it goes down, that's it. Now of course, should the pad stop working one day, you'd just rip it up and put a new one down. Anyway, I hope you didn't do this, and I hope your pad is good to go. Just remember, the pad takes up to 6 hours to reach it's desired temp when you first plug it in and use it.
    Last edited by GeckoFanboy; 02-16-2018 at 08:59 PM.

  3. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeckoFanboy View Post
    I found the Jump Start Thermostat a bit confusing to operate at first, but I am the kinda guy who has trouble hooking up and operating anything electrical, LOL.

    Basically, you're just gonna plug it into the wall, and then you're gonna plug the UTH into the thermostat. When you first plug it in, the thermostat will give you a temp reading. That temp reading is coming from the bullet-shaped tip at the end of the thermostat wire. Hold the yellow Set button down for 3 seconds and you will see it begin to blink, then let it go and use the up and down arrow buttons to select your tank temp. I set mine to 92. Click the Set button again, it will stop blinking, and your tank temp is set. Then take the thermostat wire with the bullet-shaped end, and drape it over into your tank. My warm hide has a little hole drilled into the side of it (as most commercial hides do). Take the thermostat wire and put it through the hole in the side of the warm hide (I had to drill my hole bigger to do this). Gently place the warm hide in it's place in the tank, and just make sure (this is important) that the thermostat tip is touching the floor, in the middle of his warm hide right above the center of your UTH pad. My gecko crawls around his wire. It doesn't bother him. But I just make sure that wire tip is touching the ground in the center of his warm hide.

    When you set the thermostat temp for 92, the temp will go up a little bit over that, by usually no more than 2, and then it will shut off, the temp will start to drop (you can see it digitally), and will come down to around 87, and then kick on and start going back up again. It will always make sure that your gecko's belly heat will be within a certain range, and never above or below. This is important.

    Also, there's a mistake alot of people make with their UTH pads. They peel the backer off the pad, stick it onto the tank bottom, and then decide they don't like where they put it. So they peel the pad up, and try and stick it down again. Wrong, LOL! These UTH pads have all these little wires running through them. When you peel the pad up, it actually ruins the pad. It'll never heat correctly again, as it has all kinds of tiny breaks throughout it, creating cool spots and hot spots, and often not working right at all. Alot of folks make this mistake and then wonder why they can't get the temps to work right. It even tells you not to do this on the pad instructions. Once it goes down, that's it. Now of course, should the pad stop working one day, you'd just rip it up and put a new one down. Anyway, I hope you didn't do this, and I hope your pad is good to go. Just remember, the pad takes up to 6 hours to reach it's desired temp when you first plug it in and use it.
    Thank you so so much for this info! I really appreciate it . It’s looking like I’m gonna have to buy a higher wattage bulb as well because it’s been six hours and the temp of the UTH and bulb together is still only 81 degrees. I also didn’t peel my pad back up again, it’s brand new and in the spot I put it down on first.

  4. #14
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    Cool. Good luck with getting things setup!
    This forum is great for getting tips and help.

    Here's my current 10 gallon tank layout...warm hide is on the left:
    TankLayout4.jpg

    Here's a view underneath the tank...my 8x6 UTH pad on the far left, placed under the ceramic tiling I'm using as substrate:
    myUTH.jpg
    Last edited by GeckoFanboy; 02-16-2018 at 09:25 PM.
    Thanks Elizabeth Freer, izzybpb thanked for this post

  5. #15
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    Okay, I just saw the pic of your tank setup on the first page of this thread. Pretty setup! I can't tell, but is your tank sitting near a window? It almost looks as if your tank is sitting near a window. If that is the case, move it away from the window. Window temps fluctuate seasonally, and during the winter, placing the tank near a window is going to keep it cooler. Also, NEVER allow direct sunlight to beam onto your tank...NEVER. It can cause the temps to fluctuate wildly (baking your gecko during the summer), and not only that but leos tend to absolutely hate sunlight. It's really bad for their eyes. Not good for them at all.
    Last edited by GeckoFanboy; 02-16-2018 at 09:44 PM.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeckoFanboy View Post
    Okay, I just saw the pic of your tank setup on the first page of this thread. Pretty setup! I can't tell, but is your tank sitting near a window? It almost looks as if your tank is sitting near a window. If that is the case, move it away from the window. Window temps fluctuate seasonally, and during the winter, placing the tank near a window is going to keep it cooler. Also, NEVER allow direct sunlight to beam onto your tank...NEVER. It can cause the temps to fluctuate wildly (baking your gecko during the summer), and not only that but leos tend to absolutely hate sunlight. It's really bad for their eyes. Not good for them at all.
    Thanks! The tank is a bit boring right now . I haven’t bought plants yet and I just bought ceramic tile instead of the reptile carpet which I have to cut tomorrow . And yes it’s near a window... there’s honestly no other place for this tank.. what if I tape a thick blanket or my tapestry over the window so it covers it completely and I just never open the blinds again haha . It sounds dumb but the only other outlet I have in my room is next to another window. We don’t have spare rooms to keep the tank in .

  7. #17
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    Is there anyway you can move it off to the side of the window? In other words, not smack in front of it. Get an extension cord if you can. Or buy one of those power strips with a long cord. The only problem is window areas tend to really fluctuate wildly in temp, especially if the sun hits that side of the house, and like I said, you definitely do not want sunlight hitting your tank. Geckos loathe the sun. I'm willing to bet though the reason you can't get your temps high enough now is because that tank is near the window..and winter is coming through the window panes and cooling your tank down, LOL. I know this because I have houseplants that face a southern facing window, and although they do great during the summer, they get subjected to cold during the winter, and alot of them drop leaves and shrivel. Some winter days though the sun is really bright and heats up that whole room though. I'd do everything to get your gecko away from the window.
    Last edited by GeckoFanboy; 02-16-2018 at 10:29 PM.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeckoFanboy View Post
    Is there anyway you can move it off to the side of the window? In other words, not smack in front of it. Get an extension cord if you can. Or buy one of those power strips with a long cord. The only problem is window areas tend to really fluctuate wildly in temp, especially if the sun hits that side of the house, and like I said, you definitely do not want sunlight hitting your tank. Geckos loathe the sun. I'm willing to bet though the reason you can't get your temps high enough now is because that tank is near the window..and winter is coming through the window panes and cooling your tank down, LOL. I know this because I have houseplants that face a southern facing window, and although they do great during the summer, they get subjected to cold during the winter, and alot of them drop leaves and shrivel. Some winter days though the sun is really bright and heats up that whole room though. I'd do everything to get your gecko away from the window.
    Ill definitely see what I can do. Thank you so so much for all this advice !!!!

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by izzybpb View Post
    I’m keeping the tank in my bedroom which doesn’t really go under 68 degrees. I bought an UTH today as well as a red low watt bulb and so far the hot side has stabilized at 82 degrees. I want to get it to 90 but the cool side is finally in the low 70s and I’m afraid it might go up if I raise the wattage of the bulb again
    Quote Originally Posted by izzybpb View Post
    I’m glad you mentioned that because I might just keep the UTH off until I buy a thermostat. Im supposed to pick up the gecko tomorrow actually. Idk anything about thermostats tho, will it turn back on after the temp drops?
    Can you hold off getting your leo until your temps have stabilized? 88-92*F ground temp right on top of the substrate and underneath the warm dry hide is what a leo needs to properly digest his food. I tape my thermostat's probe to my digital thermometer's probe (offset a little) and place both probes right upon the tile.

    How about covering the lower half of that window with a curtain? Some Home Improvement stores have spring-loaded curtain rods that are approximately sized for certain windows.

    I also use Hydrofarm's Jump Start MTPRTC thermostat. It's available from Amazon for $20. I set mine @ 91*F. That allows for a +/- 3*F fluctuation that's safe: up to 94*F or down to 88*F. My thermostat does not fluctuate nearly that much.

    1. Which heat mat did you buy? On your other thread I recommended Zoo Med's 8 x 12, because heat drops off quickly right off the mat. Most heat should come from the UTH. If the heat mat is too small, your leo will hug it most all the time. With a larger heat mat, your leo will be more out and about.
    2. Please return your red bulb. White light is better during the day.
    3. I suggest a 15 watt bulb MAX in a 5.5 inch diameter dome. Most of the heat should come from the heat mat. My Home Depot carries 15 watt and 25 watt incandescent bulbs. Dim it to half power with a dimmer/rheostat.
      dimmer.JPG
    4. \/ That's how I use my 15 watt photoperiod bulb (black dome) in my 30 x 12 x 12 inch enclosure.
      DSC_0159.jpg
    5. Go by the temperature chart I posted on your other thread.
      Click: im a leopard gecko noob... help w lighting and heating?
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 02-17-2018 at 02:02 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside an enclosure <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks izzybpb thanked for this post
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  10. #20
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    This is basically the same topic as your other thread, so continue there: im a leopard gecko noob... help w lighting and heating?

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