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    Default First reptile (leo) coming soon, any suggestions?


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    So I have been redirected back here so many times through google while doing research that I decided to make an account before I officially get a leopard gecko. It's my first reptile and I have always been nervous about reptiles because I am paranoid about the fire hazards of heating. However with the use of a thermostat I feel a little better knowing that my heat source (under tank heater) shouldn't get above 90-92 degrees F.

    I'm going to try to attach a picture of my set up and I'm hoping people can give me any suggestions or tips about anything that stands out as being a potential problem...

    It's a medium low exo-terra (24x18x12) with ceramic tile substrate with a single layer of paper towel underneath to protect the glass. (Anyone else use paper towel under tile? Has it ever been a problem?) Testing things out now and the surface temp with a heat gun measures between 88-92 degrees F after some messing around with the thermostat. The cool end is about 75 right now but I have a small 40 watt CHE bulb ready because the room can get cold especially in winter...

    35850833_10212400149938865_1639628353935769600_n.jpg

    The blue bowl will be calcium without D3, then I have reptivite with D3. Anyone have a good vitamin dusting schedule to share? I will be feeding dubia roaches and mealworms for now and I will try to add more variety when I can such as hornworms or maybe superworms as a treat...

    I don't know does this all look/sound good? Any general advice?
    Likes Elizabeth Freer liked this post

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    The set-up looks good in general. Most people feel that there is danger of the gecko getting too much calcium/D3 so keeping it in the enclosure is not really recommended anymore (I only do it for hatchlings). See if you can find Elizabeth Freer's care sheet on this forum. It includes a dusting schedule. I use Repashy Calcium plus and dust feeders every other feeding.

    Aliza
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    Welcome aboard!

    I suggest using Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins without D3 and Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3. If your new leo is older than 12 mo, see schedules 125 and 126. See the link in my signature.

    One place to order Zoo Med's Reptivite without D3 is the Reptile Supply Company.

    The quality of your feeders highly depends upon their diet.

    Weekly Schedule 124 for Leopard Geckos 0-12 months old

    Crickets or dubia >> Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
    Mealworms >> Tuesday
    Crickets or dubia >> Wednesday - lightly dusted with pure precipitated calcium carbonate (Zoo Med's Repti Calcium or NOW human brand calcium) without D3
    Crickets or dubia >> Thursday
    Crickets or dubia >> Friday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    Mealworms >> Saturday
    No food or free choice >> Sunday

    Future weeks:
    Continue on since all weeks are identical. . . . . .
    For 132 click: Why I use and highly recommend Zoo Med's Repti Calcium with D3 & Zoo Med's ReptiVite multivitamins without D3?

    For 81 (& 87) click: Leopard Gecko Care Sheet (abbreviated) -- May 2018 update (show handout)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-22-2018 at 03:21 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Miyukiwynter thanked for this post

  4. #4
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    17342539_1319514908116112_444175116466682477_n.jpg
    (click to enlarge)

    Click: #6---Gutload Ingredients for Bugs & Worms......Olimpia -- August 2013

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    "Lettuce (except dark, leafy greens) is just water and nutritionally irrelevant. People don't even give lettuce to tortoises and iguanas because it's worthless as food. The same could be said for potatoes. Fish flakes are very high in protein and this can lead to a build-up of uric acid in feeders/reptiles and end up causing gout. A little now and then is fine but this should never be the bulk of any gutload.

    "A commercial gutloading food like Bug Burger or Superload (both by Repashy), Cricket Crack, Dinofuel, etc. is going to make your life easier AND provide a nutritious diet to your crickets at the same time. Avoid Fluker's gutloads, as they are super feeble in their formulas.

    "If you opt for making your own gutload at home, here is a list of great ingredients to use:
    Best: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress, and alfalfa.
    Good: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy, and green beans.
    Dry food: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed, and organic non-salted almonds.
    Avoid as much as possible: potatoes, cabbage, iceberg lettuce, romaine lettuce, spinach, broccoli, tomatoes, corn, grains, beans, oats, bread, cereal, meat, eggs, dog food, cat food, fish food, canned or dead insects, vertebrates."
    ------>"As far as how to keep crickets, a large plastic storage container will work well, but really anything with smooth sides. On a large plastic container you can cut out a panel on two sides and glue on aluminum screening (and do the same on the lid) and this will provide plenty of air flow. Bad air is the #1 killer of crickets, along with poor hydration, so having good airflow will make the difference if you start getting into bulk orders of crickets.

    ------>"And I just dust mine using a large plastic cup. You don't need to coat crickets in a thick layer of calcium. Just put a pinch of calcium into the cup, get some crickets into the cup, swirl, and dump. The crickets end up evenly but lightly coated and there isn't any excess calcium left over."

    "Hope that helps!"

    (Last edited by Olimpia; 08-21-2013 at 02:03 PM.)
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 06-24-2018 at 04:37 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks Miyukiwynter thanked for this post

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    Thanks! I did buy the flukers gutload but I will switch to something else. I also have carrots in there now in addition. I plan to add more. I have dubia roaches and mealworms for now, and I plan to add in the occasional hornworm and possibly pheonix worms (called nutrigrubs by dubiaroaches.com) later on.

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