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Thread: UTH Placement

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    Default Temp Regulator


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    So for Starters, I'd like to introduce myself.

    I'm currently a Biology major with a background in Herp care (having both interned at a Zoo, as well as personal pets)

    I've used UTHs rather successfully in the past, but I'm re-rigging my Large Wide exo-terra by adding a divider in the middle. I'll be using an acrylic plastic that will be wedged down the middle, just left of the width cross-section.

    This will allow me to house my two Geckos of similar size (one is presumably male) without harming the other or over-breeding during the mating season.

    Now the issue I usually have with UTHs is where to properly place it. both sides of the tank will contain a minimum of 3 hides, where I will have 2 moist hides (one hot/one cool) and a regular hide.

    My current plan involves placing the UTHs (2 total on opposite sides on the enclosure, medium sized for 10-20 gal). As such, I'd like to ensure half of each is covered by their warm moist hides while the remainder portion provides necessary ambient heat.

    Now this leaves the the cool hides on the opposite sides of the tank, but I'm still debating how close to move the regular hide to the UTH.

    I also have a temp regulator for the pads so they do not overheat. I have sheets of plastic to cover the top if need be for heat loss, but only if it doesn't increase humidity in the process. Usually misting the interior of the hides doesn't change it drastically, but I'm going to keep tabs regardless.

    I hope I gave enough info for you to chew on. Have a good one!

    ***UPDATE***

    I have place the UTHs in at opposite ends of the tank, with their length stretching 2-3's of the tank's width, starting at the middle.

    Now my only question is where to place the sensor.

    Currently, I have it underneath my reptile carpet on top of one of the UTHs. I'm using a temp gun to measure the temps and they look good so far. If I need to move it or shift it slightly, I'm all ears.

    I also have the regulator set to fluctuate by 3 degrees on either side of the scale for variation (Central temp set to 87, so it can range from 84-90 at min-max). On that note, I also have a "nighttime mode" so the temp will set itself to 77 with a 3 degree range (74-80 around the hotspots)
    Last edited by DrGreatScott; 12-06-2018 at 06:37 PM.

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    I would put your probe on top of the reptile carpet since that's where you want the proper heat to be. Otherwise it sounds good. Other options would have been to put a large UTH in the middle of the enclosure so it straddles the divider (making the hot sides adjacent to each other) or using heat cable and configuring it where you want it to be.

    Aliza
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    Now my only question is where to place the sensor.

    Currently, I have it underneath my reptile carpet on top of one of the UTHs. I'm using a temp gun to measure the temps and they look good so far. If I need to move it or shift it slightly, I'm all ears.

    I also have the regulator set to fluctuate by 3 degrees on either side of the scale for variation (Central temp set to 87, so it can range from 84-90 at min-max). On that note, I also have a "nighttime mode" so the temp will set itself to 77 with a 3 degree range (74-80 around the hotspots)
    Welcome to Geckos Unlimited!

    Like Aliza recommends, place the thermostat's sensor right on top of the carpet underneath your leo's warm dry hide.

    I suggest setting your thermostat @ 91*F so it varies between 88*F to 94*F.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 12-07-2018 at 03:56 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

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    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    Thanks for such quick responses! I will definitely move the sensor. Now the moist hide the sensor is next to has a closed bottom, so will it still be fine to place it between? Also how do you feel about the nighttime temp settings? I will definitely increase daytime temps. UTH is running 24/7, with a change in temp every 12 hours.

    Also, I’m going to need some strong tape for the UTH for when the adhesive wears. I was thinking electrical tape. Thoughts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrGreatScott View Post
    Thanks for such quick responses! I will definitely move the sensor. Now the moist hide the sensor is next to has a closed bottom, so will it still be fine to place it between? Also how do you feel about the nighttime temp settings? I will definitely increase daytime temps. UTH is running 24/7, with a change in temp every 12 hours.

    Also, I’m going to need some strong tape for the UTH for when the adhesive wears. I was thinking electrical tape. Thoughts?
    You're welcome. Have you a 36 x 18 x 18 Exo Terra right now or some other dimension?

    I recommend Nashua tape to keep your UTH flat against the base of the enclosure.

    Setting the thermostat @ 90*F (with an approximate 3*F variation) will probably also work for daytime temps. Nighttime temps can dip to 70ish or so and be just fine. Experiment to see whether keeping the sensor between those hides will be sufficient for your needs.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 12-07-2018 at 02:28 PM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    PS:

    It's OK if the moist hide is not quite as warm as the warm dry hide.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    I have the 36 x 18 x 18. Also I notice your tag line mentions no calcium dish inside the tank. Can you elaborate on that? I know the usual consensus is “calcium w/o D3”.

    Also one of my Leo’s is closer to juvenile while the other is subadult. What’s your typical preference on age ratio for dusting with and w/o D3

    On a separate note: I’ve been thinking about a black light fluorescent for nighttime viewing (no heat). Any thoughts/recommendations on a brand that fits the exo-terra
    Last edited by DrGreatScott; 12-07-2018 at 06:00 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrGreatScott View Post
    I have the 36 x 18 x 18. Also I notice your tag line mentions no calcium dish inside the tank. Can you elaborate on that? I know the usual consensus is “calcium w/o D3”.

    Also one of my Leo’s is closer to juvenile while the other is subadult. What’s your typical preference on age ratio for dusting with and w/o D3

    On a separate note: I’ve been thinking about a black light fluorescent for nighttime viewing (no heat). Any thoughts/recommendations on a brand that fits the exo-terra
    About how old is each gecko? My supplement schedules vary. Check out links 124, 125, and 126 in the Table of Contents in my signature.

    Zoo Med's supplements supply all the calcium leos need without leaving any dish out for free access. That's one advantage of using Zoo Med's products. Some keepers believe that leos can self-regulate their supplements. I'd rather lightly dust the prey according to specific schedules. Excessive calcium can coat the digestive tract and impair absorption of other key nutrients.

    Exo Terra's moonlight incandescent bulbs are good for night viewing. They come in a wide range of wattages. Leos can see moonlight bulbs. I suggest leaving one on only while you're watching them. Slimline fixtures work for 18 inch fluorescent T8s.

    You may discover that your leos need some additional overhead heating via Ceramic Heat Emitters during the winter. Inkbird makes a thermostat that can control 2 lights/UTHs each set at the same temperature. If you're interested, I'll copy that part of my care sheet on this thread.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 12-09-2018 at 06:40 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
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    I think I actually have the model you speak of: Inkbird ITC-306 T. (I misspoke about the 3 degree overage, but it usually clocks one degree over set max after it clicks off the UTHs). I’m loving it so far.

    Given the 18 in height, what wattage would you recommend for the ceramic? I haven’t used on since I had a beardy years ago in a much shorter cage. And I currently use the ZooMed brand for both Calcium and Reptivite (though I currently have multi-v with d3 and calcium w/o, which I need to change after having read your article).
    Last edited by DrGreatScott; 12-09-2018 at 07:28 PM.
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    When we had our leopard gecko, interestingly enough he was more active with the moonlight bulb then when he was in total darkness. It was as if he felt more secure with some light verses none. Just my assumption of course. We would sit very still in total silence and just watch him. I hope more scientific studies (species specific)will be done in the near future. I would like to know if anyone’s Leo did the same?

    This is a random video on you tube I found that reminded me of our Leo.

    https://youtu.be/oOWaXyWwnt4

    DrGreatscott- if you decide to use the moonlight even for a short time please come back and share your observation.
    Last edited by Sg612; 12-09-2018 at 08:26 PM.
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