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  1. #11
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    Here's a photo of the full tank. The teal strip is just to hold my camera to the rim of the tank. IMG_20190105_144319.jpg

    Just got my thermometer installed and the ambient temps in the middle of the tank are 67-69 and are probably lower in the middle of the night when we keep the house cooler. I've swapped the UTH (for the time being) and am using the light that I got as part of the tank setup from our friends. I'm still using the thermostat so the light will still go off when the temp on the floor of hot hide gets to 91 at which point the overall tank is around 80. Let me know if you think that's a bad short-term option.

    The light is a 150W basking bulb which from what I read is good for many reptiles but not ideal leopard geckos. I think this was the same light used for most of the last 4yrs, but not sure. I was trying to avoid supplementing with overhead heat. Primarily for safety (the 150W bulb is crazy hot and seems like a fire risk), but also to minimize the amount of clutter around the cage. Obviously, if I need to add overhead heat I will. Do I need 150W or can I get away with some less hot? Now that I think about it, when we first got the tank (before I got the UTH), the bulb was on 20hrs/day straight (no thermostat), but she spent a lot of the day time on the cooler side of the tank. I wonder if it was too hot in her hot hide.

    On a side note, I would love to get better footage of her at night. I thought I read that leopard geckos don't want any light at night even the red bubls. Are there any gecko friendly lights for nighttime?

    The crickets were given carrots or "gel". I bought the orange cubes for gut-loading.

    Based on your reply, it sounds like I can follow the same weekly supplements you normally recommend but tweaked with the variants I have.

    GU's Recommended:
    Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
    Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    Saturday - no dusting

    Modified
    Monday - Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins with D3
    Thursday - Zoo Med's Repti Calcium without D3
    Saturday - no dusting

  2. #12
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    150 w is too much. You can try a 75w and see what you end up with as far as air temp and humidity.

  3. #13
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    OK. You've got a 30 x 12 x 12 inch glass tank. It's set inside a bookcase. You're using small blocks to elevate this tank above the shelf and provide airflow. Right now you're heating with a 150 watt overhead bulb.

    If your leo climbs a lot, excessive overhead heat may cause eye problems.

    Both the warm dry hide and the warm moist hide should be located on the warm end.

    I like your moss-covered hide. If it's stable it would give your leo something additional to climb upon.

    What are the dimensions of your UTH? I think you could be getting more heat from the bottom if you use an 11 x 17 inch Ultratherm UTH. Ultatherms are tops in the industry and are usually available from Amazon.

    I'll make my replies below bold. It really helps to have feedback to my posts. You probably saw my other posts about nutrition and all, but I can't be sure.

    ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

    Here's a photo of the full tank. The teal strip is just to hold my camera to the rim of the tank. IMG_20190105_144319.jpg

    Thank you.

    Just got my thermometer installed and the ambient temps in the middle of the tank are 67-69 and are probably lower in the middle of the night when we keep the house cooler. I've swapped the UTH (for the time being) and am using the light that I got as part of the tank setup from our friends. I'm still using the thermostat so the light will still go off when the temp on the floor of hot hide gets to 91 at which point the overall tank is around 80. Let me know if you think that's a bad short-term option.

    Leave your thermostat on 24/7.

    Temperatures - A temperature gradient from warm to cool maintains your leo's health. Here's a temperature guide for all leopard geckos as measured with the probe of a digital thermometer or a temp gun (and controlled by a thermostat set at 91*F/32.8*C):
    • 88-92 F (31.1-33.3 C) ground temperature right underneath a leo's warm dry hide
    • no greater than 82ish F (27.8ish C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the warm end
    • no greater than 75 F (23.9 C) air temperature - 4 inches above ground on the cool end

    Leave the heat mat/UTH on 24/7. At night turn off overhead lighting/heating (~12 hours on and ~12 hours off) unless ambient room temperatures drop lower than 67ish*F (19.4*C).
    The light is a 150W basking bulb which from what I read is good for many reptiles but not ideal leopard geckos. I think this was the same light used for most of the last 4yrs, but not sure. I was trying to avoid supplementing with overhead heat. Primarily for safety (the 150W bulb is crazy hot and seems like a fire risk), but also to minimize the amount of clutter around the cage. Obviously, if I need to add overhead heat I will. Do I need 150W or can I get away with some less hot? Now that I think about it, when we first got the tank (before I got the UTH), the bulb was on 20hrs/day straight (no thermostat), but she spent a lot of the day time on the cooler side of the tank. I wonder if it was too hot in her hot hide.

    A 150 watt bulb could have made her hot hide excessively warm! If you need overhead heating, use CHEs instead.

    What color is your 150 watt bulb? Infrared? I recommend an 11 x 17 inch UTH instead of Ceramic Heat Emitters (CHEs) or colored bulbs. Leopard geckos can see visible light. It disturbs their natural rhythms. A 15 watt incandescent bulb dimmed to half power may be all you need to provide an adequate photoperiod during the day.

    Leos are crepuscular. They are generally active at dusk, during the night, and at dawn.

    On a side note, I would love to get better footage of her at night. I thought I read that leopard geckos don't want any light at night even the red bubls. Are there any gecko friendly lights for nighttime?

    That's correct. Here are gecko-friendly night bulbs for shortterm night use. Exo Terra makes moonlight bulbs from 15 watts to 150 watts. Those are great for a few hours of viewing.

    The crickets were given carrots or "gel". I bought the orange cubes for gut-loading.

    So before you got this leo, for the past 4 years her crickets were given carrots or gel. (???)

    Did you see my reply to your nutrition thread?

    Based on your reply, it sounds like I can follow the same weekly supplements you normally recommend but tweaked with the variants I have.

    GU's Recommended:
    Monday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med Repti Calcium with D3
    Thursday - lightly dusted with Zoo Med ReptiVite multivitamins without D3
    Saturday - no dusting

    Modified
    Monday - Zoo Med's Reptivite multivitamins with D3
    Thursday - Zoo Med's Repti Calcium without D3
    Saturday - no dusting

    Your modified supplement schedule should work too.
    Last edited by Elizabeth Freer; 01-10-2019 at 09:24 AM.
    "If you can hear crickets, it's still summer." ;)

    "May the peace that
    You find at the beach
    Follow you home"

    Click: Leo Care Sheet's Table of Contents

    ===> No plain calcium, calcium with D3, or multivitamins inside a vivarium <===

    Oedura castelnaui ~ Lepidodactylus lugubris ~ Phelsuma barbouri ~ Ptychozoon kuhli ~ Cyrtodactylus peguensis zebraicus ~ Phyllurus platurus ~ Eublepharis macularius ~ Correlophus ciliatus ~ (L kimhowelli) ~ (P tigrinus) ~ (P klemmeri) ~ (H garnotii)
    Thanks winterminute thanked for this post

  4. #14
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    It's probably just relocation stress. It takes a week or more for them to settle in.
    Last edited by adewey; 01-10-2019 at 10:55 AM.

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